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THE
GAZETTEER
OF
SCOTLAND.
BY
ROBERT CHAMBERS,
AUTHOR OF "THE PICTURE OF SCOTLAND," " TRADITIONS OF EDINBURGH,.
" HISTORIES OF THE SCOTTISH REBELLIONS," &C. &C.
WILLIAM CHAMBERS,
AUTHOR OF " THE BOOK OF SCOTLAND."
VOL. II.— GLENBANCHOR— ZETLAND.
BLACKIE AND SON, QUEEN STREET, GLASGOW,
SOUTH COLLEGE STREET, EDINBURGH,
AND WARWICK SQUARE, LONDON.
BALFOUR AND JACK, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
'." ~-o-
125
G L E N C O E.
497
GLENBANCHOR, a small but beauti-
ful glen in Badenoch, in the parish of Kingussie,
watered by the Calder, a stream which joins
the Spey on the left, about three miles west of
the Inn of Pitmain. Of old, the inhabitants
of this vale did not rank high in the estima-
tion of their neighbours for honesty, — and it is
recorded, that upon one occasion, the parson,
desirous to impress upon his audience the en-
ormity of the offences of the two thieves men-
tioned in Scripture, could not hit upon a more
apposite illustration of their character, than by
comparing them to his honest parishioners in
Glenbanchor. Next day the whole effective
population of the glen were seen marching to
inflict summary vengeance upon their indiscreet
minister, when they were met by the laird,
who, upon learning their errand, diverted them
from their purpose, by assuring them, that so
far from the worthy parson intending to pass a
reflection injurious to their character, he had
only alluded to the antiquity of their clan, by
carrying it back to the period and occasion
which had formed the subject of his address to
his flock.
GLENBEG, a district in the county of
Inverness.
GLENBERVIE, an inland parish in Kin-
cardineshire, extending upwards of six miles
in length by an average breadth of three miles,
bounded by Durris on the north, Fetteresso
and Dunnotar on the east, Arbuthnot on the
south, and Fordoun on the west. The northern
part lies partly among the Grampian hills.
The lower parts are fertile, and pertain to the
Howe of the Mearns. The river Bervie
bounds the district partly on the west, and the
river Carron originates within it. The ham-
let of Glenbervie, which stands in the vicinity
of the former river, is a barony of the Douglas
family. Dramlithie, lying about a mile to the
east of the road betwixt Laurencekirk and
Stonehaven, is a village chiefly inhabited by
linen weavers — Popidation in 1821, 1277.
GLENBRAUN, a vale in the eastern side
of Inverness-shire, partly in the parish of
Abernethy.
GLENBRIARCHAN, a Highland vale
in the parish of Moulin, district of A thole,
Perthshire.
GLENBUCKET, a small Highland parish
in the district of Marr, Aberdeenshire, lying
on both sides of the Bucket, a tributary stream
of the Don. It extends four miles in length,
by about one in breadth, and has only a small
part cultivated, On the north lies the parish
of Cabrach. The Earl of Fife is sole pro-
prietor. The ruin of Badenyon or Badniaun
House, the place alluded to in the Scotch song
of " John of Badenyon," is in the parish, at
the base of the Grampian ranges — Population
in 1821, 479.
GLENCAIRN, a parish in Nithsdale,
Dumfries-shire, bounded by Tynron on the
north, Keir on the east, and Dunscore on the
south, and extending eleven miles in length, by
from three to five in breadth. The district
exhibits a beautiful intermixture of cultivated
and pasture lands, plantations, waters, green
eminences, and gentlemen's seats. The waters
are the Cairn river, which flows through a
beautiful vale in the centre of the district, and
its different tributaries, among which are the
Castlefern, Craigdarroch, and Dalwhat waters.
In the parish are the villages of Minnihive and
Dunreggan. On the south-west verge of the
parish is the small lake called Loch Urr. The
district gave an earl's title to an ancient branch
of the family of Cunningham, ennobled in
1488." This peerage, which is now dormant,
was borne by several very distinguished his-
torical characters, especially the fifth earl, who
took an active part in the introduction of the
reformed religion into Scotland. — Popidation
in 1821, 1881.
GLEN CARREL, a vale in the south-
east part of Sutherlandshire, near Glenalot.
GLENCOUL, a vale in the western part
of Sutherlandshire, extending inland from the
head of Kyle Scow.
GLENCOE, a Highland vale in the
northern part of Argyleshire, district of Lorn,
extending from Ballachulish on Loch Leven,
in a south-easterly direction, a distance of ten
miles. It is with justice celebrated as one of
the wildest and most romantic specimens of
Scottish scenery. The western line of the
Highland military roads passes through this
vale, which is therefore conveniently accessible
to tourists in search of the picturesque. It is
a narrow stripe of rugged territory, along which
hurries the wild stream of Cona, celebrated by
Ossian, who is said to have been born on its
banks. On each side of the narrow banks of
this stream, a range of stupendous hills shoots
perpendicularly up to the height of perhaps
two thousand feet, casting a horrid gloom over
the vale, and impressing the lonely traveller
3 s
493
GLENCROSS.
with feelings of awful wonder. The military
road sweeps along the north-east side of the
glen. From the sides of the hills an immense
number of torrents descend. From the one
end to the other only one human habitation
can be seen ; and as it is not a road much fre-
quented, the traveller may pass through it
without meeting a single human being. On
the north side rises Con Fion, the hill of Fin-
gal. Glencoe was formerly occupied by a
tribe of Macdonalds, whose chief was usually
termed Mac Ian, to distinguish him from
other Highland proprietors of the same name.
This tribe was, in 1691, almost exterminated
by a cruel massacre, which is too generally
known to require particular relation. The
place where the execrable deed was committed,
is at the north-west end of the vale.
GLENCROE, a wild Highland vale in the
east part of Argyleshire, district of Cowal,
stretching westwards from the north end of
Loch Long, and serving as the chief pass into
the county in that quarter. In lonely magni-
ficence, and all the attributes of Highland val-
ley scenery, Glencroe can only be considered
inferior to the vale which it so nearly resem-
bles in name, above noticed. Its sides are
covered with rude fragments of rock ; and a
little stream runs wildly along the bottom,
receiving accessions on both sides from
numerous descending rivulets. Glencroe is
only about six miles in length. The traveller
ascends to the head of the vale by a steep and
painful path, at the top of which there is a
stone seat, with an inscription indicating that
the road was constructed by the soldiers of the
22d regiment, and also inscribed with the ap-
propriate words, " Rest and be thankful."
From this point the distance to Cairndow on
the banks of Loch Fyne is seven miles, and
from Dumbarton twenty-nine miles.
GLENCROSS, or GLENCORSE, a
parish in Edinburghshire, formed in 1616 out
of parts of the parishes of Pennycuick and
Roslin (Lasswade). It is of a square form,
about four miles each way, and consisting of
fine undulating arable land and grass parks
descending from the Pentland hills to the
south. The district has been vastly improved
in recent times, and is now well cultivated and
planted. Lasswade generally bounds it on the
north and east, and Pennycuick on the west.
From the centre of the Pentland range rises
the rivulet called Glencorse burn, which is
21.
dammed up by a stupendous artificial em-
bankment, so as to form a very extensive lake.
This expensive work was made by the "Water
Company of Edinburgh, in compensation to
the millers upon the river Esk, who were then
deprived of some of their principal feeders in
order to supply the citizens with water. In
times of drought, when the Esk runs low, the
Compensation Pond, as it is called, discharges
water sufficient to keep the mills in work.
The machinery for regulating this discharge is
under the care of a keeper. The waters of the
lake cover the ruins of an ancient chapel and
burying-ground, dedicated to St. Catherine,
whose cross gave a name to the district. The
Glencorse burn, which is emitted from this
fountain, falls into the north Esk near the
village of Auchindinny. The parish possesses
some charming grounds with an exposure to
the south, and none are more attractive from
their beauty than those around the mansion of
Woodhouselee, the property of the family of
Tytler. In the latter end of last century it
was in the possession of William Tytler, Esq.
a gentleman well remembered for his amiable
qualities, and for his knowledge of music and
antiquities. His chief works were an Inquiry
into the Evidence against Queen Mary, and a
Dissertation on Scottish Music. The pleasant
hamlet of upper Howgate lies on the road south
of the domain of "Woodhouselee. Rullion
Green, where the covenanters were defeated
by the king's troops under Dalziel in 1666, is
within the parish, at the base of the Pentland
hills. A stone has been erected with an in-
scription commemorative of this skirmish, in
which upwards of fifty persons were slain. —
Population in 1821, 661.
GLENDARUEL, a vale in Cowal, Ar-
gyleshire, parish of Kilmadan.
GLENDEERY, a Highland vale in the
northern part of Perthshire, near Blair-
Athole.
GLENDEVON, a parish belonging to
Perthshire, lying in the midst of the Ochil hills,
and taking its name from the beautiful river
Devon which passes through it. It extends
about six miles in length by four and a half in
breadth, and is bounded by Muckart and Dol-
lar on the south. The district is hilly, but
generaUy green, and partly cultivated. — Popu-
lation in 1821, 139.
GLENDO CHART, a Highland valley in
the western part of Perthshire, through which
GLENGARRY.
flows the river Dochart, from the loch of the
same name to the head of Loch Tay.
GLENDOW, a vale partly in Stirlingshire
and partly in Dumbartonshire.
GLENDUCE, a small village on the west
coast of Sutherlandshire, parish of Edder-
achyhs.
GLENELCHAIG, a district in the south-
west corner of Ross-shire, parish of Kintail.
GLENELG, a parish occupying the north-
west corner of Inverness-shire, on the main-
land, and extending about twenty miles each
way. The Bay of Glenelg divides it from
Sleat or the east end of Skye. The parish is
divided into three sections by arms of the sea
projected inland from the bay. These arms
are Loch Morrer, Loch Nevish, and Loch
Hourn. Each of the peninsulas thus formed
has a particular name. The most northerly
is Glenelg, the next is Knoydart; and the
most southerly is North Morrer. There is
little cultivated land in the whole, and the pa-
rish is chiefly hilly and pastoral. The shores
are thickly studded with small villages. The
kirktown of Glenelg is near the ferry from
Skye to the mainland. — Population in 1821,
2807.
GLENELLY, a village in Glenelg, In-
verness-shire, at which is the ferry mentioned
at the end of last article.
GLENESK, the vale through which the
river North Esk flows, county of Forfar.
GLENFARG, a romantic vale or pass in
the Ochil hills, leading from Kinross-shire to
Perthshire, through which the great north
load proceeds.
GLENFERNAT, a vale in the parish of
Moulin, district of Athole, Perthshire, through
which flows the small river Arnot.
GLENFICHAN, a vale in the west part
of Argyleshire, district of Lorn.
GLENFIDDICH, a large vale at the cen-
tre of the county of Banff, partly watered by
the Fiddich, a tributary of the Spey.
GLENFINNIN, a vale at the head of
Loch Shiel, in the west part of Inverness-
shire, through which runs the small river Fin-
nin. This loyely valley derives some interest
from having been the place in which Prince
Charles first reared his standard in 1745.
The spot is now distinguished by a monumen-
tal pillar, erected by the late Mr. Macdonald
of Glenaladale — a young gentleman of the dis-
fcri'.f^ * hose grandfather, with the most of his
clan, had been engaged in the unfortunate en-
terprise which it is designed to commemorate.
It rises from a meadow closed by the bank of
the estuaiy of Loch Shiel, and is surrounded
on all sides by hills of the most lofty and pre-
' cipitous nature. It is in the shape of a co-
lumn about fifty feet high, with an internal
stair, leading from a lodge at the bottom. On
three sides are inscriptions in Latin, Gaelic,
and English, all to the same purpose. That
in English is as follows : — " On the spot where
Prince Charles Edward first raised his stand-
ard, on the 19 th day of August 1745, when he
made the daring and romantic attempt to re-
cover a throne, lost by the imprudence of his
ancestors, this column was erected by Alexan-
der Macdonald, Esq. of Glenaladale, to com-
memorate the generous zeal, the undaunted
bravery, and the inviolable fidelity of his fore-
fathers, and the rest of those who fought and
bled in that unfortunate enterprise This
pillar is now, alas ! also become the monument
of its amiable and accomplished founder, who,
before it was finished, died in Edinburgh on
the 4tb day of January 1815, at the early age
of twenty-eight years."
GLENFYNE, a vale at the head of Loch
Fyne, Argyleshire.
GLENGAIRDEN.-See Glenmutck.
GLENGARREL, a small vale in Dum-
fries-shire.
GLENGARRY, a vale and district in In-
verness-shire, lying south-west from Fort-
Augustus- A wild mountain stream traverses
Glengarry, and natural forests of birch, of
great luxuriance, cover the slopes of the hills.
On the north-west bank of Loch Oich, which
forms the mid-lake in the Caledonian Canal,
stands Invergarry House, the residence of the
chieftain of Glengarry.
GLENGONAR, a vale at the head of
Clydesdale, near Leadhills, through which
flows the Gonar, a rivulet tributary of the
Clyde. It is distinguished for the mineral
wealth of its banks. Gold was at one time
found here, and such was the excitement re-
garding it, that Queen Elizabeth actually sent
a person thither to gather it. It is not report-
ed that more than a few particles ever were
discovered. The lead mines in the neighbour-
hood are very extensive.
GLENGRADIE, a vale in Ross-shire,
through which the river Gradie flows from
Loch Fannich to Loch Luichart.
500
GLENLUCE.
GLENHOLM, a pastoral district in the
western part of Peebles-shire, formerly an
independent parish, but now united to
Broughton.
GLENISLA, a parish in the north-wes-
tern part of Forfarshire, lying to the west of
Lentrathen, and extending about twenty-one
miles in length. A great part of it is the vale
through which flows the river Isla. In gene-
ral it is from six to seven miles in breadth,
and a great part is pastoral. The Kirktown
of Glenisla lies on the left bank of the river.
Population in 1821, 1144.
GLENKENS, the upper or northern dis-
trict of the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, com-
prehending the parishes of Kells, Balmaclel-
lan, Dairy, and Carsphairn. The river Ken,
from which the name is derived, runs through
its centre in a southerly direction. The dis-
trict is noted for its pastoral character and pe-
culiarly fine breed of sheep.
GLENKINLAS, a subsidiary vale of
Glencroe, Argyleshire.
GLENLEDNOCK, a vale in Strathearn,
Perthshire, through which the Lednock flows
in its course to the Earn, which it joins near
Comrie.
GLENLIVET, a vale or particular dis-
trict in Banffshire, south-west from Glen Fid-
dich. Glenlivet is a barony of the family of
Aboyne. It is rendered famous for the ma-
nufacture of a particularly fine flavoured High-
land whisky, which goes by its name.
GLENLOCHAY, a valley in the district
of Breadalbane, in the south-western part oi
Perthshire.
GLENLOCHY,-a vale in the county of
Inverness, deriving its name from the river
Lochy, which flows through it.
GLENLOTH, a vale in the east side of
Sutherlandshire.
GLENLUCE, a vale at the head of Luce
Bay, Wigtonshire, through which flows the
river Luce. It gives its name to a thriving
village, which by the census of 1821 con-
tained 800 inhabitants. It stands in the pa-
rish of Old Luce, on the public road at the
head of the bay, which here forms a tolerably
good harbour for small vessels. There is a
meeting-house of the United Associate Synod.
The scenery around is very beautiful, espe-
cially from the ornamented grounds of Balcail,
in the vicinity. Farther up the vale stand the
ruins of Luce abbey. See Luce.
GLENLYON, a vale of considerable ex-
tent in Breadalbane, Perthshire, through which
runs the river Lyon. Its extreme length is
twenty-eight miles by only about one mile in
breadth. On both sides rise romantic high
hills, and in different parts along the bottom
are little villages, so secluded amidst alpine
scenery, as to be without the rays of the sun
for a third part of the year. It belongs to the
parish of Fortingal.
GLENMORE, a vale in the northern
Highlands of Perthshire, near the forest of
Badenoch.
GLENMORE, a large woody vale, lying
partly in Inverness-shire and partly in Moray-
shire, and belonging to the parish of Kincar-
dine. It has a small lake, called Loch Glen-
more, which abounds in fine green trout.
Glenmore has produced much valuable timber,
which has been rafted down the Spey to Gar-
mouth.
GLENMORE-NAN-ALBIN, " the
great glen, or vale of Caledonia," is that won-
derful natural hollow, whic>- stretches straight
as a furrow from south-wcHr'to north-east,
athwart the mainland of Scotland, beginning
at the sound of Mull, and ending at Inverness.
Its extreme length is fifty miles. The greater
part of its bottom is filled with a chain of
fresh water lakes, which have been joined by
an artificial water course, and form what is
termed the Caledonian Canal. See Canals.
This vale, and that of Strathmore, in the east-
ern district of Scotland, form singular feature?
in the external configuration of the country, as
they are not, like other hollows, filled by the
course of a regular river, but seem to have
been formed upon quite a different principle,
being quite straight, and only here and there
affording a receptacle for either running or
standing water. There is indeed an artifi-
ciality in their appearance, a departure from
the usual wavy outlines of nature, that is cal-
culated to excite deep surprise. This great
hollow seems to have been adapted by na-
ture for the purpose to which it is now ap-
plied. Its capacity for the easy introduction
of an inland navigable canal did not escape the
notice of the Highlanders many centuries ago ;
some of whose seers, by a mere exertion of
the understanding, predicted the transit of
white-sailed ships along the lovely glen of lakes.
GLENMORISTON, a vale in Inver-
ness-shire, west of Loch Ness, which gave a
G L E N M U I C K.
501
name to a parish, now united to that of Ur-
quhart-
GLENMOY, a vale in Forfarshire, near
Brechin.
GLENMUICK, an extensive parish in the
district of Marr, Aberdeenshire, in which have
been incorporated the parishes of Tulloch and
Glengairden. Strathdonand Logie Coldstone
lie on the north, and Aboyne and Glentanner on
the east. The parish, since its union with
the above, is of an irregular form. A large
portion lies on the south or right side of the
Dee ; and a part, fully as extensive, lies on its
left bank, and stretches considerably to the
west. Through the former the water of
Muick flows, from a lake called Loch Muick,
I in a northerly direction, till it joins the Dee ;
and through the other district the water of
I Gairden runs in a south-easterly course also
towards the Dee. There are a variety of
I smaller streamlets in the parish, the whole
I forming a series of the best trouting waters
! in this part of Scotland. The parish is mostly
of a pastoral and hilly character, and abounds
J in fine romantic scenes y» Once outlying and
■ little visited, it is now the resort of an im-
| mense concourse of persons in the summer
: and autumn months from Aberdeen and other
places, who flock thither to enjoy the benefits
of certain mineral wells at a place called Pan-
nanich, or to recreate in pleasant country
| lodgings in the modern village of Ballater.
Pannanich lies on the right side of the Dee ;
and at the distance of a mile and a half far-
I ther up on the left bank stands Ballater, which
is forty-one and a half miles west of Aberdeen.
Ballater, the most fashionable watering-place
in the northern part of the kingdom, is of very
recent origin, and consists of a series of neat
streets and houses, built on a regular plan.
The houses have been chiefly fitted up for the
accommodation of summer lodgers. There
are two excellent inns, at one of which there
is generally an ordinary during the stay of
visitors. The village is provided with a hand-
some church, standing in the centre of an open
square. The D£e is here crossed by a good
bridge, permitting a free thoroughfare with
Pannanich. At the wells at the latter place
there is a lodging-house, and baths of various
kinds are fitted up in the best style. The
water 'of one of the springs is celebrated for
curing scrofulous complaints, and that of an-
other, from its diuretic properties, has frequent-
ly afforded great relief, and sometimes effected
cures, in cases of gravel. Consumptive pa-
tients obtain great benefit from the fine pure
air, and goat's milk, which is to be had at the
well-house. Coaches in communication witri
Aberdeen and Ballater run daily during the
summer months. The beauty of the sce-
nery round Ballater, and the salubrity of
the climate, well suit it for the resort of vale-
tudinarians and others fatigued with the close
anxieties of city life. Like Innerleithen
in the south, its walks are agreeable; its so-
ciety choice and respectable ; and for those
fond of trouting excursions there could hardly
be a better temporary residence. One of the
most favourite promenades is that to the sum-
mit of Craigindarroch, a romantic hill in the
vicinity, disposed with pleasant walks. The
Muick water, at the distance of four and a half
miles from Ballater, possesses a tolerably good
fall, to which there is a good road along the
south side of the rivulet. The stream dashes
over a rock of about forty feet in height into
a basin below, and forms a beautiful cascade.
Four miles below Ballater there is a wild ro-
mantic spot, called the Vat, formed in the
fissure of the rocks, through which a small ri-
vulet runs. The entrance is by a natural aper-
ture intoalarge circular space, shaped something
like a vat — the rocky sides being from twenty
to thirty feet high. Loch Cannor or Kan, is
more immediately in the neighbourhood, and
measures three miles in circumference. On a
small island within it are the ruins of a castle,
said to have been once a hunting- seat of Mal-
colm Canmore. The lake is beautiful and
romantic in its appearance, and skirted with
birch, hazel, and other wood. An agreeable
excursion may be made to Loch Muick, at a
distance of eight miles, where there is excel-
lent trout-fishing. The scenery here is wild
but pleasing, and a mile below may be seen
some good views of the high and nigged cliffs
of Lochnagar, which stands a few miles west-
ward from Loch Muick, on the verge of the
parish. From the summit of this dark and
lofty mountain, which has been sung by Byron,
who spent his infancy in its vicinity, and which
is 8800 feet above the level of the sea, may
be obtained a view almost unexampled in ex-
tent and grandeur. Should the weather be
favourable, and the air pure and serene, the
spectator is presented with a view bounded on
the south by the Pentland Hills in Mid-Lo-
502
G L E N R O Y.
thian, and on the north by Benwyvis in Ross-
shire, by Benlomond on the west, and the
German Ocean on the east, the intermediate
space being spread out as a map of Nature's
own formation, interspersed with mountains,
vales, rivers, firths, villages, and towns Po-
pulation of the united parishes in 1821,
2223.
GLENNEVIS, a vale in Inveraess-shire,
near Fort- William.
GLENORCHAY, or GLENORCHY,
and INISHAIL, a united parish in the east
side of Argyleshire, on the borders of the
county of Perth. The conjunction of the two
parishes took place in 1618. The extent of
both is about twenty-four miles. Glenorchay
takes its name from the vale through which
flows the river Orchay into the head of Loch
Awe. Inishail signifies the beautiful island,
the church of the district having formerly been
situated on an island of that name in Loch
Awe — See Loch Awe. This large parish is
generally pastoral, and partakes of the common
Highland character of grandeur and wildness
of scenery. The vale or plain of the Orchay
is beautiful and verdant. The church and
manse occupy an agreeable situation on an islet
formed by the bendings of the river. The
hills are in many places covered with wood ;
and in different directions there are great im-
provements in the appearance of the country.
A good road, on which stands the village and
inn of Dalmally, proceeds through the district
from Inverary to Tyndrum and Glencoe. The
ruins of Kilchum Castle stand on the point of
a rocky promontory at the north end of Loch
Awe. On the little island of Fraoch Elan
6tand the romantic ruins of a castle. The
highest and most celebrated hills are Benlaoi,
Beindoran, and Cruachan. Glenorchay was at
one time the property of the warlike clan Mac-
gregor, who were gradually expelled from the
territory, through the influence of the rival clan,
Campbell. The Gallow Hill of Glenorchay,
famed in Highland tradition for being the place
of expiation of many criminals obnoxious to the
summary justice of Macgregor, is an eminence
opposite the parish church. The ancestors of
the late Angus Fletcher of Berenice, author
of a well-known political work upon Scotland,
were, according to the traditions of the coun-
try, the first who raised smoke or boiled water
on the braes of Glenorchay. — Population in
1821, 1122.
GLENPROSEN, a vale in the north-west.
part of Forfarshire, through which flows the
river Prosen, a tributary of the South Esk.
GLENQUHARGEN, a rocky eminence
in the parish of Penpont, Dumfries-shire.
GLENQUIEGH, a vale in Forfarshire,
near Kirriemuir.
GLENQUIECH, a vale in the western
part of Perthshire.
GLENROY, a valley in Lochaber, the
south-eastern part of Inverness-shire, parish of
Kilmanivaig, through which flows the river
Roy. The scenery of Glenroy is both pleas-
ing and picturesque, being richly ornamented
with scattered wood, and distinguished for
simplicity and grandeur of style. Its up-
per extremity is terminated by Loch Spey,
the summit of the eastern-flowing waters.
This extensive vale is celebrated for hav-
ing certain unaccountable parallel roads, or
long narrow paths, marked distinctly on the
face of the bounding hills. They consist
of three separate lines at different heights,
each line following the sinuosities of the hills,
and having one on the opposite bank at pre-
cisely the same height and of the same appear-
ance. They continue for about eight miles.
The common tale regarding these curious ap-
pearances, or, as they are generally styled, the
Parallel Roads of Glenroy, is, that they were
formed by Fingal, as paths by which he might
pursue the chase through the woods. Modern
geologists have inquired into their origin with
a greater regard to probability; and perhaps
the best theory yet started upon the subject is
that of Dr. Macculloch, author of a large work
on the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, who
suggests that they must have been the succes-
sive margins of a lake which had been at diffe-
rent times reduced by convulsions of nature.*
" The parallel roads," says this writer, " are
the shores of ancient lakes, or of one lake, oc-
cupying successively different levels ; for, in an
existing lake among hills, it is easy to see the
very traces in question produced by the wash of
the waves against the alluvial matter of the
hills. Ancient Glenroy was therefore a lake,
which, subsiding first by a vertical depth of
eighty-two feet, left its shore to form the up-
permost line, which, by a second subsidence of
* This theory is countenanced by the circumstance,
that various small glens branching from Glenroy have
the same appearances, and at corresponding levels.
G O L S P Y.
503
212 feet, produced the second, and which, on
its final drainage^ left the third and lowest, and
the present valley such as we now see it. If
this deduction should arouse the indignation of
a Fingalian, he ought to be satisfied in the
proud possession of one of the most striking
and magnificent phenomena of the universe ;
singidar, unexampled, and no less interesting to
philosophy, than it is splendid in its effects,
and captivating by its grandeur and beauty."
GLENSHEE, the vale of the river Shee,
lyingbetween the higher parts of Forfarshire and
Perthshire, but chiefly in the latter. It is a
pass into the Highlands of Brae Mar, and near
its head is a stage on the great military road
to Fort George, called the Spittal of Glen-
shee. It is situated fifteen miles south from
Castletown of Braemar, and seventy-seven
north from Edinburgh.
GLENSHIEL, a Highland pastoral pa-
rish in the south-west part of Ross-shire adja-
cent to Kintail, and lying on the south-west
side of Loch Duich, an arm of the sea. In a
narrow pass in the highest part of the parish,
a skirmish was fought in 1719, by the Earl of
Seaforth, for the cause of the Stewarts, and
the Hanoverian forces, in which the former
were defeated Population in 1821, 768.
GLENSHIRA, a glen in the parish of
Laggan, in the upper or western part of Bade-
noch, forming the basm of the river Spey for
the first twelve miles of its course. Its prin-
cipal feature is the imposing grandeur of the
mountains which rise around, sending down
numberless torrents, particularly on the north-
ern side, to swell the waters of the Spey. Not-
withstanding the unpromising aspect of this
part of the country, which is increased by the
almost total absence of trees, the hills furnish
excellent pasture for sheep, while the low
ground by the river-side yields crops in suffici-
ent abundance to supersede the necessity of
importation.
GLENSHIRA, a picturesque glen about
five miles long, at the head of Loch Fyne, near
Inverary, consisting of a deep and fertile soil.
GLENSPEAN, a beautiful glen of con-
siderable extent in the parish of Kilmanivaig
in the district of Locbaber, Inverness-shire,
commencing near the lower end of Loch Lag-
gan, where it marches with Badenoch, and
following in a westerly direction the course of
the Spean, from which it receives its name.
This glen in many places presents appear-
ances of the operation of water similar to
those described in Glenroy, and confirming by
their levels the theory entertained of their
formation. — See Glenroy.
GLENTANAR, a woody district in Marr,
Aberdeenshire, once a separate parish, but
now united to Aboyne.
GLENTILT, a vale or pass in a wild part
of Athole, Perthshire, through which runs the
river Tilt. The glen is narrow and bounded
by lofty mountains, covered with a fine ver-
dure. On its south side is the enormous hill
of Beinglo.
GLENTRATHEN See Lenteathen.
GLENTURRET or GLENTURIT,
a vale north of Crieff, Perthshire, through
which flows the water of Turit, from a loch of
the same name. The glen is famed for its
romantic beauties, and is noticed in Scottish
song.
GLENTURRIT, a small glen branching
off in a westerly direction from Glenroy.
GLENURQUHART, a vale in Inver-
ness-shire, west of Loch Ness, in the parish
of Urquhart.
GLETNESS, two or three small islets of
Shetland, five miles north-east of Lerwick, in
the mouth of Catfirth Voe.
GLIMSHOLMor GLIMPSE HOLM,
a small island of Orkney, in Holm Sound,
lying between Burry island and Pomona.
GLUSS, an islet on the north coast of
Shetland.
GOATFIELD or GAOLBHEIM, a
mountain in the isle of Arran, parish of Kil-
bride, elevated 2840 feet above the level of
the sea, and famed for different kinds of rare
stones found upon it.
GOGAR BURN, a rivulet in the coun-
ty of Edinburgh, parish of Corstorphine, a
tributary of the Water of Leith. It takes its
name from a hamlet on its banks called Gog-
ar, at which there was a chapel before the
Reformation.
GOIL, (LOCH) one of the terminating
arms of Loch Long in Argyleshire, which it
leaves in a north-westerly direction.
GOLSPY or GOLSPIE, a parish lying
on the south-east coast of Sutherlandshire,
north of Loch Fleet. It is in length about
ten miles by about two in breadth. A prodi-
gious improvement has been effected within
these few years in this part of the country, at
the instigation of the Marquis and Marchioness
304
GORDON.
of Stafford, the latter of whom, as Countess
of Sutherland in her own right, inherits nearly
the whole of this county from a long and illus-
trious line of ancestors. In prosecution of an
extensive design of improvement, rendered ne-
cessary by the altered circumstances of the
Highland population, this noble pair have ex-
pended immense sums in transferring the na-
tives of their estates from the inner part of the
country to the shore, where they now prosper-
ously pursue the herring fishery, and other oc-
cupations, in a series of villages, of which
Golspie is perhaps the best specimen. Gols-
pie lies at the mouth of a small river of the
same name, at the distance of nine miles from
Dornoch, and consists of one neatly built
street, with a handsome little church, and an
inn, which reminds the traveller, by its neat
appearance, of the delightful honey-suckled
hotels of merry England. During the fishing
season, and also during those fairs into which
a good deal of the business of the place is
concentrated, Golspie presents a very bustling
appearance. The general effect of the altera-
tion, as far as regards the people, is, that they
now enjoy the tastes and cultivate the compa-
ratively refined habits of the Lowlanders, in-
stead of living, as formerly, in the Boeotian
ignorance and sloth and poverty of Highland
crofters. The land near Golspie is now in-
closed and well cultivated, and agriculture is
even seeking its way up into the hills behind
the town. A little to the north of the village
is Dunrobin castle, the ancient seat of the
Earls of Sutherland, and supposed to have
been built by the second baron of that title
about the year 1100. It is surrounded by
some fine old wood, besides extensive modern
plantations. From Golspie all the way to
Brora, five miles, the road is skirted with
neat cottages, surrounded by shrubberies, and
covered with honey-suckle. These abodes
have been recently peopled by mechanics from
the south. —Population in 1821, 1036.
GOMETRA, a small island of Argyle-
shire, lying on the west coast of Mull, from
which it is separated by an arm of the sea
called Loch Tua. It is of basaltic formation,
and devoted to the pasturing of cattle.
GOODIE, a small river in the south-
western part of Perthshire, formed by the
discharge of the water of Lake Menteith.
It falls into the Forth at the fords of
Frew.
GORBALS, a suburb of Glasgow, built
on the south bank of the Clyde. It has an
independent parochial jurisdiction, and is go-
verned by magistrates nominated by the town-
council of Glasgow. — See Glasgow.
GORDON, a parish in the western part of
the Merse, Berwickshire, lying between Leger-
wood and Greenlaw, and extending seven miles
in length, by from two to four in breadth. The
surface is uneven, and lies higher than the
Merse toward the east. Recently it contained
much moorish land, and in general the aspect
was bleak ; in the present day it is undergoing
many improvements and is in many places
finely enclosed and planted. The parish is
somewhat remarkable, as having contained the
earliest possessions acquired in this country by
the great historical family of Gordon, who took
their name from the place. Two farms with-
in the parish are called Huntly and Huntly
Wood ; and it is understood, that when the
family removed to the north of Scotland, where
for three or four centuries they have possessed
more territorial influence than any other, they
carried the names of these localities, as well as
their own name along with them, and conferred
the designation of Huntly upon a place in
their new domains, from which they afterwards
took the titles of lord, earl, and marquis, in
succession. On being raised to a dukedom
in the year 1684, the parish now under review
was resorted to for a new title, though for
centuries they had no seignorial connexion with
it. The river Eden intersects the parish.
The village of Gordon lies on the road from
Edinburgh to Kelso, nine miles distant from
the latter. The people of Gordon were re-
cently a very primitive race, some of them
having lived in the same farms from father to
son for several centuries. It was perhaps on
this account they were stigmatized as "the
Gowks o' Gordon," in a popular rhyme run-
ning thus :
Huntly-wood — the wa's are doun.
Bassandean and Barrastoun,
Heckspeth wi' the yellow hair,
Gordon gowks for evermair.
Population in 1821 , 740.
GORGIE, a village lying about two miles
west from Edinburgh on the road to Glasgow,
by way of Mid- Calder, at which there is an
extensive establishment for preparing and
dressing skins.
GOULDIE, a village in the south part of
Forfarshire, parish of Monikie.
G O W It I E.
505
GO URDON, a fishing village on the coast
of Kincardineshire, lying about a mile south of
Bervie.
GOUROCK, a small sea-port town and
burgh of barony, of a remarkably clean ap-
pearance, in the parish of Innerkip and county
of Renfrew. It is pleasantly situated on the
south shore of the Firth of Clyde, about three
miles below Greenock. It possesses a neat
chapel of ease. Gourock is a fashionable re-
sort in the summer months of families from
Glasgow and other places to enjoy the advan-
tages of sea-bathing. Its regular inhabitants
are chiefly fishers ; and here, it seems, red her-
rings were prepared for the first time in Great
Britain. There is an extensive rope-work in
the place. — Population in 1821, 750.
GO VAN, a parish in Lanarkshire, with a
small portion belonging to the county of Ren-
frew, lying on both sides of the Clyde imme-
diately below Glasgow. By the erection of
the village of Gorbals into a separate parish,
1771, and the subsequent disjunction of land
quoad sacra, its limits are reduced, and now it
extends about five miles from east to west by
a breadth of from three to four. The lands on
the south side of the Clyde form a most beau-
tiful plain, extending in breadth for nearly two
miles, embellished with rich corn fields, planta-
tions, pleasure-grounds, and gentlemen's seats.
The village of Govan lies on this side of the
river at the distance of about two miles from
Glasgow. It is rather a straggling place,
chiefly inhabited by weavers ; but it occupies
a pleasant site amidst hedgerows and planta-
tions. It forms the terminating point of an
agreeeble walk by the river-side from Glasgow,
and is noted for its preparation of salmon. A
ferry boat, or rather a floating scaffold, guided
by chains, connects the two sides of the river
at the mouth of the Kelvin. This stream,
whose romantic banks and groves are famed in
song, is the eastern boundary of that portion
of the parish which lies on the north side of
the Clyde. It is of great utility in turning a
vast number of mills. The outskirts of Glas-
gow, with its various works, reach almost to
the Kelvin. In this quarter stands the small
village of Partick, near which in an elevated
situation stand the ruins of a castle or country
residence of the former prelates of Glasgow.
—Population in 1821, 4325.
GOWRIE, a district of Perthshire, gene-
rally describable as the alluvial plain at the
lower part of the course of the river Tay. Its
boundary Line on the north proceeds from near
Alyth to Little Dunkeld, from whence it pro-
ceeds to the south, with a tendency to the east,
till it reaches the Tay below Perth, (which it
includes,) the Tay is then the boundary to
Longforgan in the east, and from thence it pro-
ceeds westward along the verge of the shire.
In this large tract of country is to be found
every variety of hill and dale, and every thing
that constitutes rural beauty. The Carse of
Gowrie, noticed at length under its appropriate
head, is that portion which lies on the north
bank of the Tay, opposite to the coast of Fife.
It is a rich flat territoiy formed by the subsid-
ence of the river, and, in adaptation to evert/
agricultural purpose, is only second in point of
value to the fertile holms of East Lothian.
Gowrie, at the end of the sixteenth century,
supplied the title of earl to an ancient Scottish
family, previously ennobled as barons of Ruth-
ven, which was also their surname. The
title sunk with John Earl of Gowrie, the third
occupant, who was attainted in 1 600, on ac-
count of the famous conspiracy bearing his
name. The inhabitants of the Carse of
Gowrie were formerly noted in popular oblo-
quy for their stupidity and churlishness ; and
" the carles of the Carse" used to be a com-
mon appellation for them, said to be not more
alliterative than true. Pennant records apro-
verb regarding them, which supports the same
theory — namely, " that they wanted fire in the
winter, water in the summer, and the grace of
God all the year round." Whether there be
now, or ever were, any real grounds for such
charges against the people of this blessed and
beautiful spot, we shall not take it upon us to
determine ; but shall relate an anecdote, to
prove that examples of retributive wit are not
unknown among them. A landed proprietor
in the Carse used to rail in unmeasured terms
against the people, alleging that their stupidity
was equally beyond all precedent and all cor-
rection : — in short, said he, I believe I could
make a more sensible race of people out of the
very soil which I employ them to cultivate.
This expression got wind among the people,
and excited no little indignation. Soon after,
the gentleman in question had the misfortune
to be tumbled from his horse into a clayey hole
or pit, from which, after many hours struggling,
he found it totally impossible to extricate him-
self. A countryman came past, and he called
3t
506
GRAMPIANS.
for assistance. The man approached, took a
grave glance at his figure, which presented a
complete mass of clay; and coolly remarked
as .he passed on, " Oh, I see you're making
your men, laird ; I'll no disturb ye."
GRAEMSAY, a small island, generally
arable, in the Orkney group. It lies between
the north end of Hoy and the Mainland.
GRAHAMSTON, a populous and thriv-
ing village in Stirlingshire, in the parish of
Falkirk, on the road to Carron, standing on
the spot where the unfortunate patriot, Sir
John the Graham, was slain in the battle of
Falkirk, July 22, 1298. From its vicinity
to the Forth and Clyde Canal, considerable
traffic is carried on in wood, and on a small
basin derived from the Canal, is an iron work,
called the Falkirk Foundry. The village may
now be considered a suburb of Falkirk, the in-
tervening ground being almost entirely occupi-
ed by a double row of handsome freestone
cottages.
GRAHAMSTON, a suburb of Glasgow
in the Barony parish.
GRAMPIAN MOUNTAINS, a series
of very irregular ranges and groups of lofty
hills, which, with more or less continuity, oc-
cupy the whole north-western side of Scot-
land, with part of the northern, advancing
branches to the eastward in a straggling man-
ner, and intersected by valleys which preserve
no fixed or common direction. In almost
every description of the Grampian Mountains
hitherto written, they are described as a chain
of hills stretching between the counties of
Aberdeen and Argyle, or almost from sea to
sea. Recent investigation has made it obvious
that the direction of " the Grampian range" is
exceedingly indistinct : that " the chain" is
very imperfect. It is unfortunate that a pro-
per survey was not in former times taken of
the vast masses of hills which are found in this
portion of Scotland ; and that the term Gram-
pian was not confined to a particular group or
range. In ordinary language, all the hills
between the Sidlaws in Forfarshire and the
Spey are called Grampians, much to the con-
fusion of topographical illustrators, and of the
understanding of their readers. Adhering, of
necessity, to the usual explanatory term, there
is a range of Grampians which separates the
county of Banff from Aberdeenshire ; there is
another range hemming in the district of Marr
on the south-west, and coming round to Kin-
22.
cardineshire ; from the east end of this chain
single and double Grampian hills are detached
towards Stonehaven ; at the head of Forfar-
shire there is an immense clump of Grampians :
on the boundaries of Argyleshire there are dif-
ferent ranges of Grampians ; and, as above
stated, in the whole north-west of Scotland,
there are groups and chains of Grampians.
The general height of the Grampians is from
1400 to 3500 feet above the level of the sea ;
but some rise to a height far above this eleva-
tion. The southern boundaiy of the whole is at
Strathmore. The etymology of the word
Grampian is as confused as the geographical
boundaries of the mountains to which the name
has been fixed. Every antiquary has had his
own explanation. Whether it be of an origin
antecedent to the incursion of the Romans, or
first conferred by their historian Tacitus, has
never been" cleared up. The phrase at first
seems to have been attached to only one hill,
or a single range of hills. In describing the
battle between Galgacus and Agricola, Tacitus
says that it was fought " ad montem Gram-
pium." In another place, in noticing the pro-
vince of Vespasiawa, he says that the "horren.
dum Grampium jugum" divides it in two parts.
And, again, he says that part of the " Gram-
pius Mons" forms a promontory extending far
into the German Ocean, near the mouth of the
Dee. The exact locality of the battle might
probably have been settled at Stonehaven,
from these imperfect notices, but for the error
which the Roman historian commits in the
map which he made of the country, wherein a
range of Grampians — " Montes Grampii," ap-
pears in a part of Scotland where there are no
hills of any kind, at least in the present day.
In seeking out the etymon of Grampian, the
words Grans-ben, Grant-ben, Grants'-bain,
and Garv-ben, have been indifferently ad-
vanced as the original. A new elucidation has
been more recently given by the Rev. Mr.
Small, author of a work on Roman Remains,
who alleges that the Lomond hills in Fife are
the true Grampians, for they resemble the
walloping of a great fish or grandis piscis in the
sea, which he tells us is the real origin of the
phrase of Tacitus. It is almost needless to
say that these points, which have turned the
heads of every antiquary from Richard of Cir-
encester down to that argute personage Jona-
than Oldbuck, are such as mist for ever be a
subject of profitless contest.
GRANGEMOUTH.
507
GRAMRY, an islet in Loch Linnhe, to
the south of Lismore.
GRANGE, a parish in the county of Banff,
lying in the lower district of the shire, and ex-
tending in three long ridges from the north
banks of the Isla, a tributary of the Deveron.
The length of the parish is six miles by a
breadth of five. The parish of Keith lies on
the south-west. The Knock-hill, Lurg-hill,
and the hill of Altmore, bound it on the north,
separating it from the fertile countries of Boyne
and Enzie. The low grounds and parts of
the hills are finely cultivated and enclosed.
The name is derived from a country residence
or grange in the parish, once belonging to the
abbots of Kinloss. Part of the ruins is still
seen Population in 1821, 1682.
GRANGE-BURN, a rivulet in Stirling-
shire, which unites with the Carron, a short
way above the junction of the latter, with the
Firth of Forth, where it is also joined by the
Forth and Clyde Canal, — at the point of junc-
tion stands the thriving village which forms the
subject of the following article, from which
circumstance it derives its name.
GRANGEMOUTH, a sea-port in Stir-
lingshire, parish of Falkirk, situated on the
Carron river, a short way from its embou-
chure into the Firth of Forth. It was com-
menced in 1777 by the late Sir Laurence
Dundas, in the prospect of its future conse-
quence by the complete navigation of the
Forth and Clyde canal, which here passes into
the river. Since that period it has risen into
considerable importance. It has spacious ware-
houses for goods, commodious qtaays for ship-
ping, and a diy dock. Vessels bring into
this port timber, hemp, and tallow, deals,
flax, and iron, from the Baltic, Norway, and
Sweden ; besides grain from foreign parts, and
from the coasts of Scotland and England. Of
late years it has derived a considerable acces-
sion of trade, by being found a cheaper landing
place than Leith, the shore-dues of which are
extravagantly high. The Carron Company
has a wharf here for its vessels, which bring
additional trade and commerce to the port.
Rope-making and ship-building are carried on
to a considerable extent. A new school-house
has lately been erected, to which a library has
been attached by the exertions of its excellent
teacher. It possesses also a custom-house.
On the right bank of the Canal, a little to the
south-west, stands Kerse House, the seat of
Lord Dundas. During the summer months,
a steam-boat plies daily between this place and
Newhaven. A small steam-vessel has lately
been established for the purpose of carrying
goods from Alloa and places adjacent along the
Canal to Port-Dundas. An extensive trade
is carried on in timber and corn. — Population
in 1821, 1500.
GRANTOWN, a modern village in the
parish of Cromdale, Morayshire, lying about a
mile south of Castle Grant, on the left side of
the Spey, on the roads from the south to Fort-
George, and from the lower to the higher part
of the country, at the distance of twenty-two
miles south from Forres. It was begun about
the year 1774, under the patronage of the
Grant family, who have been its continual be-
nefactors. It has an excellent school, with
an hospital for poor orphans ; and a town-
house, with a jail, under the jurisdiction of the
sheriff of the county. A branch of the Na-
tional Bank is settled. — Population in 1821,
500.
GRASHOLM, an islet of Orkney, lying
on the south of Shapinshay.
GRAVE, an islet on the coast of Lewis.
GREENHOLMS, a larger and smaller
islet of Orkney, lying in Stronsay Firth, one
mile and a half south of Eday.
GREENHOLM, a small island of Shet-
land, on the east side of the mainland, four miles
north from Lerwick.
GREENLAW, a place in the parish of
Glencross, county of Edinburgh, on the road
from Edinburgh to Pennycuick, (from which it
is distant about two miles,) at which are most
extensive barracks for prisoners of war and sol-
diers ; they have been unoccupied since the
conclusion of the war.
GREENLAW, a parish in the centre of
the Merse, Berwickshire, extending seven or
eight miles in length from north to south, and
on an average of about two miles in breadth.
It is bounded by Polwarth on the north-east.
The surface of the land is generally level, only
rising here and there into slight detached emi-
nences. The north-west part of the parish is
chiefly composed of moor, sound sheep walks,
and soil adapted to turnips. Near the farm of
Greenlaw Dean, also in this part of the parish,
are the remains of a small but remarkably
strong camp or military position, defended on
all sides except one by a precipitous bank.
On this moor, also, are seen the remains of an
508
GREENOCK.
ancient wall, called Harit's Dyke, which, tra-
dition says, reached from the town of Berwick
to Legerwood in Lauderdale, and which must
have been a boundary between two hostile
tribes at an early and unrecorded period of our
history. In the parish were two religious
houses belonging to the Abbey of Kelso.
Greenlaw, the capital of the above pa-
rish, and the county town of Berwickshire,
is situated seven and a half miles west of Dunse,
ten north of Coldstream, twelve east of Lau-
der, and thirty-seven south by east of Edin-
burgh. It lies in a valley upon the north bank
of the Blackadder, over which there are two
bridges, and consists of one long street, with a
square market-place receding from the south
side. In the centre of this square formerly
stood the market- cross, a neat Corinthian pil-
lar, surmounted by a lion presenting the coat-
armorial of the Earl of Marchmont, who erect-
ed it. The upper side of the square is formed
by a line of buildings comprising the church, the
steeple, and a disused court-house, all surround-
ed by a burying-ground. The steeple seems as
if inserted between the other two ; and the
circumstance of its having been used as the
county jail, with its dark and dungeon-like ap-
pearance, suggested to a waggish stranger the
following descriptive couplet :
Here stand the gospel and the law,
Wi' hell's hole atween the twa.
Hell's hole is now vacated, and there is a hand-
some new county jail at a little distance. An
elegant county-hall, just erected by Sir W.
P. H. Campbell, Bart., now occupies the site
of the cross, in the centre of the square. The
town of Greenlaw was formerly situated upon
the top of an eminence, about a mile to the
south, where a farm onstead is still denominated
Old Greenlaw. Being afterwards removed to
its present situation, it rose into some degree
of importance under its baronial superiors, the
family of Marchmont, whose influence in po-
litical affairs, after the Revolution, was of great
service to it. The town, which is a burgh
of barony under Sir W. P. H. Campbell, the
successor of this extinct race of peers, has
since then (except during a space in the reign
of Charles I.) been the seat of the county
courts and other jurisdictions, though Dunse is
a much larger and equally central town. Before
the Reformation, the kirk of Greenlaw belong-
ed to the monks of Kelso. In the twelfth
s-nd two succeeding centuries, the kirk town of
Greenlaw was dignified by the residence of the
Earls of Dunbar, from whom the family of
Home is descended. The town now contains,
besides the parish church, two dissenting con-
gregations — one of the Associate Synod and
another of the Old Light Burghers. It has
a carding machine and a wauk mill both well em-
ployed ; and there are two annual fairs, May
22, and the last Thursday of October. A
subscription Library was established in the
town in 1820 Population of the town and
parish in 1821, 1349.
GREENOCK, a small river, a tributary of
the Water of Ayr, in the parish of Muirkirk.
GREENOCK, the first sea-port in Scot-
land, and the sixth town in point of population,
is situated in Renfrewshire, upon the south
shore of the Firth of Clyde, twenty-two miles
below Glasgow; lat. 55", 57', 2" N. long. 4°, 45',
30" W. The site of the town is eminently beau-
tiful. At this part of the south bank of the
Clyde, the land rises in a picturesque ridge of
about eight hundred feet in height, at a little
distance from the shore, leaving, therefore,
only a narrow stripe of low ground by the
water-side. Greenock occupies the whole of
this low stripe, and even ascends a consider-
able way up the ridge ; the beauty of the situa-
tion being further enhanced by a fine bay hi
front, (anciently styled St. Laurence's Bay,
from a religious house,) and by the splendid
Highland scenery which bounds the opposite
side of the Firth. There are various defini-
tions of the name Greenock, and among the
rest, one which refers it to a green oak, which
once spread its umbrageous branches upon the
shore. But the word is evidently derived from
some circumstance connected with the worship
of the sun, practised by the Celtic aborigines,
or perhaps from the sunny bay in front of
the town, this being the Erse word for the sun.
What renders this theory the more probable,
is, that numerous places in Scotland are named
from the sun, or the early worship paid to it.
Greenan Castle, near Ayr, and a farm of the
same name above Loch Tummel in Perth-
shire, are instances ; besides the Perthshire
locality alluded to in the following sonorous
popular rhyme : —
" Between the Camp at Ardoch
And the Greenan hill o' Keir,
Lie seven kings' ransoms,
For seven hunder year."
Greenock is entirely indebted for its present
(f ? a.Si35Sf©SlK
PuMuhcll&yTfcS-eZanrlJiinrSl Sozr, i firidat ■
GREENOCK.
509
commercial importance to the trade wliieh was
opened up by the West of Scotland with the
Colonies, after the Union. Previous to that
era, it was a mere fishing hamlet, connected
with a barony under the family of Shaw.
Thus, in common with Glasgow, Paisley, and
other citadels of human industry in the west
of Scotland, the rise and advance of Greenock
to its present condition, forms a theme not
only of local wonder, but of national interest.
Previous to the Reformation, the few inha-
bitants scattered along this narrow stripe of
alluvial territory, derived the consolations of
religion from three small chapels, placed at in-
tervals along the country, one of which, dedi-
cated to St. Laurence, gave its name to the
beautiful bay in front of the present town.
The ground upon which Greenock now stands
was then part of the parish of Innerkip, the
church of which was situated six miles off,
with a river between. Of course, after the
destruction of the chapels at the Reformation,
the people had to walk all that distance to join
in the celebration of public worship. In
1589, however, in consideration of this incon-
venience, and also seeing that the inhabitants
of the barony of Greenock were of " a res-
sounable nowmer," King James VI. granted
leave to John Shaw, the baron, to erect a
church for the use of his own people, em-
powering him to maintain a clergyman therein
by the quota of teinds which he formerly paid
to the minister of Innerkip. This arrange-
ment, which resembled the erection of a chapel
of ease in our own times, was further confirm,
ed in 1594, when the whole of John Shaw's
estates, Greenock, Finnart, and Spangock,
were erected into an independent parsonage
and vicarage. Afterwards (1636), this was
again further confirmed by their erection into
a separate parish, to be called the parish of
Greenock. These circumstances, though
partly owing no doubt to the interested views
of a powerful proprietor, all indicate an in-
creasing and thriving population, even under
the unfavourable circumstances in which Scot-
land was then placed. In the same year,
moreover, with the erection of the lands into
a parish, the baron began to grant feus upon
his property, an indication of the rise of a
better order of inhabitants. In 1651, when
John Shaw marched with his sovereign into
England, he led two hundred men: the dis-
tinction which he acquired by his behaviour in
the fatal battle of Worcester, procured him,
in a subsequent reign, the honour of a baronet-
cy. In 1684, though as yet no harbour was
built, a vessel sailed from Greenock with a num-
ber of the persecuted religionists of the West of
Scotland, who were sentenced to transportation
to the American Colonies. Next year, a party
connected with the Earl of Argyle's invasion
landed here ; the bay probably affording some
facility for such a purpose, notwithstanding
the want of works. Greenock now consisted
of only a single row of thatched houses,
stretching along the bay ; and the neighbouring
little town of Cartsdyke, which Greenock now
regards with supreme contempt, seems to have
been a place of much greater consideration.
Great hope, however, of the future prosperity
of Greenock, lay in the vigilant activity of the
baronial family of Shaw, which, through a
mixture, perhaps, of interested and public-
spirited views, omitted no opportunity of ad-
vancing the interest of the village. In 1696,
with the hope apparently of rendering Green-
ock a depot for the trade of the Darien Com-
pany, Sir John Shaw made application to the
Scottish Parliament for public aid to build a
harbour, but was unsuccessful. To the great
chagrin, no doubt, of his worship, as well as
the feuars of Greenock, part of that company's
expedition, in 1697, was fitted out at the rival
hamlet of Cartsdyke. However, the increasing
spirit of the people soon got over every diffi-
culty, and, in 1707, a harbour of about ten acres
in extent was laid out, the people agreeing to
discharge the cost by an assessment of 1 s. 4d.
sterling upon every stack of malt which should
be brewed into ale within the village. The
work was finished in 1710, at an expense of
L.5555 ; and it affords a proof, either of the
great trade carried on for some years after, or
of the extreme thirstiness of the inhabitants,
that the whole of this immense sum was liqui-
dated before the year 1740. In 1707, the in-
habitants of Greenock and Cartsdyke together,
amounted only to about 1000 : in 1755, those
of Greenock alone were 3800. About this
time, moreover, the houses began to be covered
with slate, instead of thatch. In 1716, there
were four so distinguished. The harbour was
at first established in the regulations of the
Custom-house, as a branch of Port- Glasgow.
The Union having now opened up its full
prospects to Scottish commerce, Greenock
came rapidly forward into importance as a har-
510
GREENOCK.
bour, being 9 ibsidiary in some measure to Glas-
gow, the vessel* belonging to which were unload-
ed here and at Port- Glasgow, on account of the
shallowness of the river higher up. The first
vessel which sailed from the Clyde to America
on a commercial enterprise, left Greenock in
1719; an incident already noticed under Glas-
gow. About this time, the rising prosperity
of the place excited the jealousy of London,
Liverpool, and Bristol, to such an extent, that
they falsely accused the merchants of Green-
ock and Port- Glasgow of fraud against the
revenue, first to the Commissioners and after-
wards to the House of Commons ; this was
triumphantly refuted ; and Greenock, unimped-
ed in its career, continued to prosper exceed-
ingly. The gross receipt of the customs, in
17-28, was £15,231, 4s. 4^d. The import of
tobacco from the colonies, and its re-trans-
portation to the Continent, from which goods
were taken in exchange, was at this time, and
up to the period of the American war, carried
on to a great extent. In 1752, the Greenland
whale-fishery was also established, though
not carried on with much spirit till some few
years after. It is now abandoned.
Though the people thus took such large
advantage of the trade-wind which set in upon
Scotland after the Union, it is remarked by
Dr. Leyden, in his publication entitled " Scot-
tish Descriptive Poems," that they did not ad-
vance passibus cequis in an attention to litera-
ture and science. A most notable instance of
their Gothic barbarity was particularly pointed
out by this writer, and has since excited much
remark. In 1767, when the ingenious Wilson,
author of " Clyde, a Poem," applied to the
magistrates for the situation of master in their
grammar school, those dignitaries, inspired
partly by religious prejudice and partly by
mercantile prudence, stipulated with him that
he should abandon what they styled " the pro-
fane and unprofitable art of poem-making."
They thus effectually repressed in this man of
genius and honour all the aspirations which
had animated his soul in youth, and condemn-
ed him, in his own words, " to bawl himself
to hoarseness to wayward brats, to cultivate
sand and wash Ethiopians, for all the dreary
days of an obscure life, the contempt of shop-
keepers and brutish skippers." After his un-
happy arrangement with the magistrates, he
never ventured, says Leyden, " to touch his
forbidden lyre, though he often regarded it with
that mournful solemnity which the harshness
of dependence, and the memory of its departed
sounds could not fail to inspire." How many
souls have existed, and at this moment exist,
in the condition of poor Wilson, animated with
all the energies and sensibilities of genius, but
obliged, for the paltry bread which nature re-
quires, or for the sustenance of beings more
dear than self can ever be, to toil in the low
pursuits of a common-place and unkindly
world !
Previous to 1751, Greenock had been ma-
naged, like other burghs of barony, by the baron
himself, or his deputy. The town was now,
by a charter from Sir John Shaw, enabled to
elect a regular magistracy, consisting of two
bailies, a treasurer, and six councillors, with
power to make laws for the advantage of the
burgh, and maintaining of peace and order
within the same, and also to admit merchants,
and all kinds of tradesmen, and others, to be
burgesses within the said burgh. By the same
constitution it is now managed ; the represen- '
tative of the baronial family, Sir Michael Shaw
Stewart, having no other connexion with the
town than what arises through the immense
revenue he derives from the feus and the pa-
tronage of one of the parish churches.
The blow given to commerce by the Ameri-
can colonial war was severely felt by Greenock,
which, like Glasgow, was then obliged to look
out for other objects of enterprise. These
were found in various quarters, and the pro-
sperity of the place was quickly resumed. Up
to this period great improvements had been
progressively wrought upon the quays, and a dry
dock was now built (1785) at an expense ot
£4000. The progressive increase of the trade
of the port may be indicated by the advance of
the Custom-house receipts, which in 1770
were L.57,336; in 1794, L.77,680; in 1798,
L.141,853; in 1802, L.211,087; in 1814,
L.376,713; and in 1828, L, 455,596 ; or by
the multiplication of the inhabitants, who, in
.1755 amounted to 3800, in 1791 to 15,000,
in 1801 to 18,400 in 1S11 to 20,580, in 1821
to 23,500, and in 1829 to 27,000. Through-
out this space of time, the old harbourage ac-
commodation has been almost entirely renewed
upon a splendid scale, at an expense of about
L.20,000 ; and the result has been, that
whether the depth of water be considered, or
the conveniency of entry and egress, or the
riding ground offered bv the firth, which at
GREENOCK.
ill
this place is completely land-locked, and re-
sembles a large inland lake, Greenock is now
decidedly the best port in Scotland. The
following measurements will show the extent
of the quays and their accommodation :
Feet.
East quay . . 531
Entrance to harbour . 105
Custom house quay . 1035
Entrance to harbour . 105
West quay . . 425
Extreme length from east to west 2201
Breadth of piers . 60
The management of the harbour is vested in
its commissioners, (along with the town coun-
cil,) who are elected annually ; and every ship-
owner, paying L.12 per annum of shore-dues,
is eligible to be elected, while paying L.3 qua-
lifies for giving a vote.
The trade in Greenock consists of foreign
and coasting. Indeed, it may be said, that
there is no place where British enterprise has
opened a market, but Clyde vessels are to be
found. At present Greenock has trading ves-
sels to every part of the world, the whole
amounting in 1828 to 249, or 31,929 of ton-
nage, and employing 2210 men. The West
and East Indies, and North American trades,
may be considered the principal. Newfound-
land and South America have also employed
a considerable portion of shipping from this
port. It is said that the coasting trade has
somewhat declined since 1812, in consequence
of the introduction of steam-vessels, which tow
small vessels to Glasgow againot wind and
tide. In the herring-fishery, Greenock annu-
ally does business to the extent of 19,000 bar-
rels at an average ; and the port has long been
in almost exclusive possession of that melan-
choly trade, which consists in facilitating the
emigration of the poor people of Scotland to
North America.
Greenock, in external appearance is a neat
town, though somewhat too much huddled to-
gether in its older districts. Of late years, a
number of very clean and regular, and even
elegant streets have been erected towards the
west, for the accommodation of the more re-
fined inhabitants ; and a tendency has also been
displayed by this class of society to rear streets
and detached villas along the heights behind
the town, where the view of the firth and of
the Highland scenery beyond is a source of
neverfailing pleasure. One of the most re-
markable circumstances connected with Green-
ock is the proximity of the Highlands. But
a few miles off, across the Firth of Clyde, this
untameable territory stretches away into Al-
pine solitudes of the wildest character ; so that
it is possible to sit in a Greenock drawing-
room, amidst a scene of refinement not sur-
passed, and of industry unexampled, in Scot-
land, with the long-cultivated Lowlands at
your back, and let the imagination follow the
eye into a blue distance, where things still ex-
hibit nearly the same moral aspect as they did
a thousand years ago. It is said that when
Rob Roy haunted the opposite coasts of Dum-
bartonshire, he found it very convenient to sail
across, and make a selection from the goods
displayed in the Greenock fairs ; on which oc-
casion the ellwands and staves of civilization
would come into collision with the broad-
swords and dirks of savage warfare, in such a
style as must have served to show the ex-
tremely slight hold which the law had as yet
taken of certain parts of our country. From
the same cause, an immense proportion of the
population of Greenock is of Highland ex-
traction ; and a late writer remarks that it is
scarcely possible to walk the streets without
hearing a rough blast of Gaelic rush past the ear.
Among the public structures of Greenock,
decidedly the first place is due to the Custom-
House, which is situated on a tongue of land
projecting into the harbour, and fronts towards
the full expanse of the Clyde. The beautiful
Grecian style of this building does justice to
its felicitous situation ; we have heard a tra •
veller declare that it woidd do honour to any
city in the world. The portico is remarked
to be extremely beautiful. This building was
erected in 1818, and cost L.30,000. The
Tontine next deserves notice. This is a splen-
did hotel, erected in 1801, at an expense of
L. 10,000, which was provided in the course of
two days by four hundred subscribers to the
amount of D.25 each. It contains a large
hall, with twelve sitting-rooms, and thirty bed-
rooms. Nearly opposite this elegant house
are the Exchange Buildings, which were fi-
nished in 1814, at an expense of L.7000, and
contain, besides two spacious assembly-rooms,
a coffee-room, where newspapers, periodical
publications, and works giving information on
commercial subjects, are read at an annual ex-
pense to each subscriber of 35s., strangers be-
512
GREENOCK.
ing admitted for six weeks gratis. The
Greenock Bank, which was instituted in 1785,
and has ever since issued notes, occupies the
other part of the building ; and near it is a
small theatre, built by the late Mr. Stephen
Kemble, but which is rarely opened, and never
effectively patronised. The Town-hall and
public offices, situated in Hamilton Street,
were erected in 1766, after a plan by the cele-
brated James Watt. A police-office is con-
nected with this structure. Greenock boasts
of an excellent academy, under the control of
the magistrates, and has numerous private
schools. In 1809 an hospital or infirmary
was added by the charity of the inhabitants to
the list of public buildings ; it is a neat edifice,
and its utility is universally acknowledged. In
1810 a jail and bridewell were erected. In
1820 was reared a new coffee-room, in conse-
quence of a difference having arisen between a
number of the subscribers and the proprietors
of the Exchange Buildings. It imitates the
urbane regulation of the parent establishment,
in admitting strangers gratis for six weeks,
without introduction. A gas work, for sup-
plying the town with that necessary article,
was erected in 1828, at the expense of L.8731.
Besides the banking establishment above al-
luded to, there are the Renfrewshire" Bank,
which was commenced in 1802, and now oc-
cupies a substantial house in Shaw Place — and
a branch of the Glasgow Union Bank.
Greenock is now divided into three pa-
rishes, respectively termed the west parish, the
mid parish, and the east parish, all being form-
ed out of the original parish of Innerkip. The
first, which may be styled the mother parish
of the three, comprehends the western part of
the town, and the greater part of the country
district. Its clergyman is remarkable for the
extent of his salary, which is supposed to be
not surpassed by any other in Scotland. This
arises chiefly from his glebe, which he was
permitted to feu by an act of parliament in
1801. Hence the stipend, which, in 1796,
was only L.96 in money, with a glebe worth
L 30 yearly, is now understood to amount
nearly to a thousand pounds ! The church
stands near the shore, and is surrounded by an
old burying-ground. The Mid Parish, which
was formed out of the above in 1741, com-
prises the central parts of the town, and the
church is situated in a small square fronting
along a street which descends to the quay.
The minister's stipend is L.295. The East
Parish, erected in 1809, boasts only of a
humble place of worship, near Rue End,
which was originally erected in 1774 as a cha-
pel of ease. The salary is L.200.
The oldest dissenting place of worship is
the Original Burgher Associate Synodmeeting-
house at Cartsdyke, built in 1745, and re-con-
structed in 1828. A meeting-house of the
United Associate Synod was erected in Market
Street, 1758, but abandoned in 1802, for a more
commodious house in Innerkip Street. An-
other in the same communion was reared in
1791 ; and a Gaelic chapel of ease was erected
in the same year. The other meeting-houses
or chapels are one Congregational Union, com-
menced in 1806, a Relief in 1807, a Methodist
in 1814, a Roman Catholic in 1815, a Baptist
in 1821, a Chapel of Ease in 1823, and an
Episcopal in 1824.
Greenock is, besides all its commercial im-
portance, a manufacturing town to a consider-
able extent, though it must be confessed the
principal articles are connected with the com-
mercial pursuits of the port. Ship-building
was commenced in 1764, and has since been
carried on with much success. There are
now five establishments in this line, one of
which, belonging to Messrs. Scott and Sons,
is allowed to be the most complete in Britain,
excepting those which belong to the crown.
The yard has a fine extent of front from West
Quay to the termination of West Burn, and
a large dry dock. All the stores and differ-
ent lofts are entirely walled in; and, inde-
pendently of the building premises, there is an
extensive manufactory of chain cables. An
immense number of vessels have been launch-
ed from this place ; the largest ever built here,
or in Scotland, was the Caledonian, of 650 tons,
in 1 794, for the purpose of supplying the royal
navy with masts, &c. Boat-building is also
carried on to a great extent in Greenock ; one
builder, Mr. Nicol, in 1819, endeavoured to
give the author of the History of Greenock an
idea of the number of boats he had built, by
stating that, if put together end long, they
would reach twenty-four miles in length. In
connexion with the above works, are several
extensive roperies and manufactories of sail-
cloth. One of the most prominent branches
of manufacture in Greenock is sugar-refining,
which is here carried on to a greater extent
than anywhere else in Scotland. The first
GREENOCK.
513
house was erected about the year 1765, and
there are now seven. The straw -hat manu-
facture has been prosecuted with much eclat
by two most deserving individuals, Messrs.
James and Andrew Muir, who first began bu-
siness in 1808. To such an extent has this
branch of business been carried, that the
straw, after arriving from England, is sent
in large quantities to Orkney and the High-
lands, where it is plaited by women and
children ; and afterwards it is returned to
Greenock to be wrought into bonnets. In
1826 the Highland Society's medal and
premiums were conferred upon the Messrs.
Muir for their imitations of Leghorn bonnets,
one of which was described as comprehending
164 yards of plait, 414,720 turnings, and
410,500 stitches, the rows within an inch
being 10. The number of workers was com-
puted (1829) at from 200 to 300 in Greenock,
and about 2000 in Orkney, besides those since
employed in the west of Argyle -shire.
Other manufactories in Greenock are, — two
of silk and felt hats, a pottery, a work for flint-
glass, two manufactories of steam engines,
carried on to a large extent, an extensive
brewery, four distilleries, a bottle-work, a
chain cable work, two extensive tanneries, two
soap and candle-works, a steam saw-mill, va-
rious foundries, sail lofts ; besides which there
are numerous smaller concerns, of too common
occurrence in towns of this size to require
particular notice.
Greenock has recently been the scene of an
extraordinary exertion of mechanical power in
the formation of a series of waterfalls for
mills along the heights above the town. An
ingenious engineer, Mr. James Thorn of Rothe-
say, had perceived the possibility of collect-
ing the water of a considerable number of
small mountain streams into one channel,
which he proposed to conduct forward to the
town in such a way as, within the space of
little more than a mile, and upon a descent of
live hundred and twelve feet, should give power
to no fewer than thirty-two water mills !
A company under the title of the " Shaws
Water Company," having been formed to
carry this design into effect, with a capital of
L. 31, 000, the whole was completed in April
1827. The whole length of the aqueduct is
about six miles and a half, and, to ensure a sup-
ply of water in seasons of the greatest drought,
a large reservoir is formed upon its course.
A flax-mill, (which is a novelty in the manu-
facturing system of this district) a paper-mill,
and various flour-mills are already set a-going.
The design is also rendered subservient to
the supply of the town with water for domestic
use, a necessary with which it was formerly
but ill provided. This splendid public work
has opened up magnificent prospects to manu-
facturing enterprise in Greenock, and, whether
considered with reference to its external won-
ders, or in the above more interesting light, is
fitted to impress a stranger with a high sense
of the character of the inhabitants of Greenock.
It must be mentioned that Greenock is the
birth-place of the illustrious Watt, the perfecter
of the steam-engine, who was born in 1736.
The birth of a man of genius in a small place
which was evidently unable to educate him, or
by any other means to inspire him with the
ideas which in another scene gained him the
applause of mankind at large, is no honour ;
and when we find the magistrates, thirty years
after, binding down Wilson from the employ-
ment of his leisure hours in a harmless literary
amusement, there is even less than the usual
reason to allow any credit to Greenock on this
account. It is but justice, however, to this
enterprising town to mention, that it is not by
any means uncharacterised by an attention to
literature and science. It supports various con-
siderable libraries, and the advantages of an
observatory have long been at the command of
such individuals as take pleasure in astronomi-
cal observations. Various societies for the
cultivation of literary and scientific discourse
have been established, but invariably without
success. Printing was instituted in 1765, and
a newspaper in 1802. This journal continues
to be published twice a week, under the title
of the Greenock Advertiser, and is conducted,
like almost all the other provincial papers in
Scotland, by a gentleman of literary taste and
accomplishment. Among the hterary produc-
tions of Greenock, is to be mentioned a " His-
tory" of the town, by Mr. Daniel Weir : to
which work we have been indebted for a
great part of the matter of this article
Population in 1821, 22,088.
GREINORD, (LOCH) a bay on the
north-west coast of Ross- shire, in which lies
a small island.
GRESSALLACH, (LOCH) a bay of
the sea on the east coast of Harris, south of
East Loch Tarbet.
3 u
514
GRETNA.
GRETNA, or GRAITNEY, a parish in
the south part of Dumfries-shire, lying on the
west side of the small river Sark, and conse-
quently the first Scottish ground in entering
the country from Cumberland. It extends
about six miles along the shore of the Sohvay
Firth, and is intersected by the river Kirtle.
In breadth it is three miles, and is bounded on
tlie north by Kirkpatrick Fleming. The land
has a very gentle acclivity, and is generally
well enclosed and cultivated. The present
parish comprehends the old parishes of Gretna
and Redpatrick or Redkirk, which were united
in 1 609, by the penurious policy of the Refor-
mation. The village of Old Gretna stands in
a hollow, upon the east side of the river Kirtle,
about half a mile from the Firth .of Solway.
It is understood that the name originated in
the local situation of the village ; the Anglo-
Saxon words Gretna- how signifying the great
hollow or howe. There are other two and
more famed villages in the parish, namely,
Gretna-green and Springfield. The former lies
north of Old Gretna, and Springfield stands in
a very eligible situation on the great road from
the south into the centre of Dumfries-shire.
Gretna-green has been long noted for the cele-
bration of clandestine marriages. For some
time back the trade has been altogether carried
on at Springfield, which, being the first stage
on the public road from Carlisle, is better suit-
ed for such a purpose. Springfield was begun
to be reared in the year 1791, under the pa-
tronage and superiority of Sir William Max-
well. It is neatly and regularly built, and sur-
rounded with cottage gardens and well trimmed
fields. The little sea-port of Sarkfoot is dis-
tant about a mile. It is now upwards of seven-
ty years since the infamous traffic alluded to
was commenced by a person of the name of
Joseph Paisley, a tobacconist by profession,
and not a blacksmith, as is usually supposed.
After a long life of profanity and drunkenness,
he died so late as 1814. There are now, or
were lately, two rival practitioners, one of
whom married Paisley's grand-daughter, and
fell heir to his office. He enjoys, therefore,
the greatest share of the trade ; still the other
has a good deal of custom. In nearly all cases
it depends on the chaise-drivers from Carlisle,
•which shall have the job. Upon an average
800 couples are married in the year : and the
fee charged varies from half a guinea to L.40.
This traffic, little elevated as it is above the
22.
office of Pandarus, forms a chief support of
the village, though smuggling has lately be-
come a rising and rival means of subsistence.
In its legal effects, the ceremony performed
at Gretna or Springfield merely amounts to a
confession before witnesses that certain per-
sons are man and wife ; such an acknowledg-
ment being sufficient to constitute a valid mar-
riage in Scotland. By a certificate being sub-
scribed by the officiating priest and witnesses,
the marriage becomes quite indissoluble. In
general, the service of the church of England
is read ; but this, and indeed the whole cere-
mony, is only done to stifle the qualms of the
lady. An attempt was made in the General
Assembly of the kirk of Scotland in 1826, to
have this shameful system of fraud and pro-
fanity suppressed, but without effect. Until
a judicious equalization shall take place in the
marriage laws of the two kingdoms, now so
absurdly discrepant, or till the improved morals
of England shall cause young persons to start
with proper horror at the indecency of a clan-
destine union, we apprehend that the system
is incorrigible — Population in 1821, 1945.
GREY MARE'S TAIL, a noted cata-
ract in the northern wilds of Dumfries-shire,
nearly ten miles north-east from the village of
Moffat. It is formed by a small stream, run-
ning between Loch Skene, a lonely mountain
tarn, and the Moffat Water. The stream, in
descending to the vale of Moffat, is precipi-
tated over a rock 300 feet in height, impeded
in the fall only by slight projecting ledges,
which produce the appearance indicated by
the name.
GREINBUSTERHOLM, a small islet
of the Orkneys, near Stromness.
GRIMS AY, a small island of the Hebrides,
situated west of Rona Island, between North
Uist and Benbecula.
GRIMSHADDER, (LOCH) a narrow
arm of the sea on the east side of Lewis, south
of Loch Stornoway.
GROAY, an islet on the coast of Harris.
GROINARD, a small island on the west
coast of Ross-shire.
GRUGAG, a small river in the north-
eastern part of Ross-shire, parish of Edderton,
on which there is a cataract of 300 feet in
height.
GRANNOCH, (LOCH) a small lake in
the parish of Girthon, in the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright. It abounds in charr.
GULANE.
5Ifl
GRYFE, a river in Renfrewshire, which
has its sources in the western part of the coun-
ty, among the hills south from Greenock, and
receives, in its course to the east, various ac-
cessions from both sides, but especially from
the extensive moss of Kilmalcolm on the south
border of that parish. Its course is serpentine,
but generally smooth. Formerly Renfrew-
shire received from this stream the general
name of Strathgryfe, which, however, is now
confined to the vale immediately formed by the
stream, and is used only in popular parlance.
In the latter part of its course it tends to the
north, and joins the Black Cart at Walkinshaw.
The united stream finally unites with the
White Cart at a creek on the left bank of the
Clyde. It yields good trout and perch, and is
serviceable to different large works.
GULANE, or GOOLAN, a small vil-
lage in the parish of Dirleton, Haddington-
shire, near the sea coast. It is irregularly
built, but possesses several good modern
houses. Its name is derived from the British
word Go-Lyn, signifying a little lake or pool ;
and till this day there is a pond near the vil-
lage. Gulane is famed for the extensive sandy
downs slightly covered with herbage, which
spread away from it in a south-westerly direc-
tion towards Aberlady. These links are the
habitation of vast numbers of gray rabbits, and
are farmed as a warren at a considerable rent.
In consequence of the excellence of these downs
for coursing, Gulane is considered one of the
best places in Scotland for rearing and training
race or fine riding horses, and of these animals
from eighty to a hundred are trained annually.
At one period Gulane was the capital of the
parish to which it gave its name. On the
east side of the links stand the ruins of
the ancient kirk, which- was dedicated to St.
Andrew, and was well endowed. In 1612 the
seat of worship was removed by act of par-
liament to Dirleton, at which place a chapel
had been erected in the reign of Alexander
III. by the family of De Vallibus or Vaux.
It is mentioned by Grose, that the last vicar
of the church of Gulane, before its abandon-
ment, was deposed from his living by James
VI. for no other misdemeanour than that of
smoking tobacco, a custom which the king
held in abhorrence ; but we take the liberty,
like that cautious and erudite antiquary George
Chalmers, of doubting the correctness of such
a tradition. Besides this ecclesiastical esta-
blishment, there was in early times in its
neighbourhood a small monastic institution,
said to have been a cell of the Cistertian nuns
of Berwick-upon-Tweed. The piety of an-
cient times erected yet another religious house
in this vicinity. On the small bleak island of
Fidra, lying off the coast, was once an eccle-
siastical structure, but by whom peopled is
now unknown. It has however been ascer-
tained, that it acted as a Lazaretto in times of
severe plague. Its windows were likewise
serviceable to mankind in acting as beacons to
warn the unwary mariner from the dangers of
an unsafe shore. At one time there was a
passage boat which sailed regularly to the op-
posite coast of Fife, but such a convenience
has been long in desuetude. At a place at
Gulane Ness — the most prominent part of tlie
shore — ironstone was in recent times wrought
to a considerable extent for the Carron works.
GULBEIN, a mountain stream in Locha-
ber, flowing northward and joining the Spean
about a mile below the place where the latter
issues from Loch Laggan. In the triangle
formed by these rivers and the end of Loch
Laggan, there is a very considerable extent of
table land, evidently of the same formation as
the parallel roads of Glenroy, with one of
which it is understood exactly to correspond in
level.
GUNNA, an islet belonging to Argyle-
shire, lying between Coll and Tiree.
GUTHRIE, a parish in Forfarshire, lying
between Aberlemno on the south-west and
Kinnel on the south-east. It is divided in a very
incommodious manner into two parts, lying
six miles apart from each other. The surface
is only partly arable, and from the top of the
hill of Guthrie the land generally descends to
the south and south-east. The parish had a
collegiate church prior to the Reformation,
with a provost and three prebendaries. It
is under the patronage of the Guthries of
that ilk, one of whom was slain at the battle
of Flodden.— Population in 1821, 555,
516
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
HA A, an islet on the north coast of Suther-
landshire.
HAAY, an islet of the Hebrides on the
coast of Harris.
HABBIE'S HOWE, a locality alluded to
in the Scottish pastoral comedy of Ramsay,
is a secluded natural hollow on the banks of a
rivulet called Monk's-burn, a tributary of the
North Esk, within the northern verge of
Peebles-shire. The scenery all around this
spot coincides with the allusions to different
places in the above charming production. It
is annually visited, in the summer months, by
parties from Edinburgh, from which it is dis-
tant about twelve miles, by a road along the
south base of the Pentland hills.
HADDINGTONSHIRE, or EAST
LOTHIAN, a county in the south-east part
of Scotland, bounded by Berwickshire on the
south, Edinburghshire, or Mid-Lothian, on the
west, and the Firth of Forth upon the north
and east. The rivulet of Dunglas separates
it for about two miles from the county of Ber-
wick, and a similar streamlet, Ravenshaugh
burn, separates it for about half a mile from
Edinburghshire. The mean length of the
county is twenty-three miles. Its breadth
at the west end is twelve miles, in the middle
sixteen, and at the east end ten miles. By
the most accurate measurements, its surface
presents an area of two hundred and eighty
square miles. The early history of this agree-
able county is so intimately associated with
that of the shire of Edinburgh, which has been
already patiently elucidated, that to avoid
repetition little may here be said. . Its origi-
nal inhabitants, both before and after the intru-
sion of the Romans, were the British Gadeni,
as is everywhere signified by the names of
streams, hills, and hamlets. These people at
length sunk under those Anglo-Saxons, whose
head-residence was the castle of Edinburgh.
During the sixth century, the Saxon settlers
and the more obscure aborigines were chris-
tianized through the exertions of the pious
Baldred, whose cell was at Tyningham. The
Saxons of this part of Lothian were sometimes
overcome by the Picts, after the battle of Drum-
nechton, and they were finally overpowered by
the Scots, after the suppression of the Pictish
power. With other parts of the Lothians, the
district was ceded in 1020 to Malcolm II. In
succeeding centuries, the shire suffered the hoi'-"
rors of pillage and conflagration, on all occasions
of the armies of England being sent to in-
vade the country, and to molest or punish the
capital. Presenting an excellent theatre of
warfare for contending forces, and being rich
in agricultural produce, it gave frequently an
advantageous field of battle to the English
and Scots. In 1296, and again in 1650 the
sanguinary battles of Dunbar were fought
within it, and in 1745 it was the scene of
the battle of Prestonpans, since which pe-
riod it has enjoyed the utmost repose. The
county of Haddington is divided into high-
lands and lowlands — the former being inland,
and the latter adjacent to the coast. The
highland territory is part of the extensive
range of mountains called the Lammermoor-
hills. These hills are chiefly brown heaths,
fit only for sheep pasture, and at other times,
especially near their northern boundaries, they
are susceptible of cultivation, and .yield toler-
ably good crops, though generally late. From
the Lammermoor hills, the land, with few inter-
ruptions, declines in the most pleasing and
gentle manner towards the shore of the Firth of
Forth. In the south-eastern part of the
county, the ground, after descending the hills,
is flat for several miles, and here its productive
powers are greatest. On the western confines,
the Lammermoor hills decline into the rich vale
of the Tyne, between which and the sea there
is a low swelling hilly range, proceeding out of
Edinburghshire, which fades away near the
town of Haddington on the east, while a branch
leaves it near its termination, called the Garle-
ton hills, and pursues an easterly course. This
latter range shuts out the view of the eastern
part of the county in looking from Edinburgh.
Besides these hills the shire possesses two con-
spicuous conical mounts, one near the centre, be-
low Haddington, called Traprain Law, and the
other near the sea, called North-Berwick Law,
being close upon the town of that name. The
appellation of Traprain hill we accept as an
evidence of the former condition of the shire.
The higher country was at one period abun-
dantly covered with wood and shrubberies, as
were the higher parts of Edinburghshire, and
nothing can be more significant of such a fact
than the great number of names throughout
the district composed of the word wood, oak or
shaw — as Wood-hall, Wood-house, Oaken-gill,
Cran.^ n?( . ; gj C< jjy t ] lc etymology of the term
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
517
Traprain, or Traprene, which means " beyond
the trees" in the Cam bro- British tongue, we are
enabled to conjecture, with a probability of be-
ing correct, that the low country in this quarter
was uncovered by such primeval forests. The
next most conspicuous elevation is the Bass, a
huge rocky islet, about two miles from the
shore, and sufficiently described in its proper
place. So commodiously has nature disposed
the surface of East Lothian into ranges of
hills and fertile dales, that some tourists, from
topographical retrospection, have declared Had-
dingtonshire to be the Northampton of North
Britain. Haddingtonshire has few waters, and
none of particular import. Its chief river is the
Tyne, which flows through the flat part of the
county to the sea, at Tyningham. It is easily
flooded, and on such occasions sometimes com-
mits great havock upon the crops. The shire
has no natural lakes, but this destitution of wa-
ters seems no way injurious to the district, and
is amply made up by the Firth of Forth, which
yields a large supply of iish and sea ware. The
greater part of the shire lies upon a bed of
granite, and nearly the whole is full of pit-coal.
This useful mineral was here dug as early as the
beginning of the thirteenth century, if not earlier.
Limestone and marie are also abundant. Sand-
stone is likewise plentiful, but, though durable,
is generally of an ugly red colour. We learn
from George Chalmers, who had consulted the
charters, that during the reigns of David I. Mal-
colm IV- and William the Lion, the large area
of Haddingtonshire was the possession of only
a few barons, who at their pleasure disposed
of not only the lands but the men who lived
upon them, without any hinderance — (" cum
nativis, et eorum sequela.") In these times
the kings, the nobles, and the churchmen were
all agriculturists in East Lothian, every manor
having its hamlet, its church, its mill, its kiln,
and its brewhouse — all attributes of a country
teeming with rural wealth. The monks, in
particular, were keen husbandmen, and by
their skill gave the county its first character
for agricultural superiority. They were also,
as has been seen in Edinburghshire, the pa-
irons of horticulture, and by their taste and
activity operating on a kindly soil, there were
excellent gardens and orchards in the county as
early as the twelfth century — an amazing an-
tiquity for such things in Scotland. Pulse
seems to have been an article of cultivation in
the shire in the thirteenth centurv, as is attest-
ed by the fact of the English soldiers, during
their siege of Dirleton castle in 1298, having
subsisted on the pease which grew in the ad-
jacent fields. The thriving state of the agri-
culture of the shire in the fourteenth century,
is gathered from a casual expression of For-
dun. He tells us that in 1336 East-Lothian
was involved in warfare, and its agriculture
impeded, by the outrage committed by Alan
of Wyntoun, in carrying off, by violence, one
of the daughters of the Earl of Seton. So
great was the ferment on this occasion, says
he, that in one year it suspended the labour of
a hundred ploughs. The fertility of East-
Lothian in the seventeenth century is ascer-
tained by a passage in Whitelock's Memoirs,
where it is told that the English soldiers
who accompanied Cromwell in his expedition
into Scotland in 1650, were astonished to find
in that district " the greatest plenty of corn
they ever saw, not one of the fields being fal-
low," although the grain was much trodden
down and wasted by the march of the army,
and by the dragoons giving the wheat to their
horses. Notwithstanding these commenda-
tions, it may be honestly allowed, that at this
and a later period the agriculture of the shire
was still in a primitive rude state, while
all the old clumsy instruments of culture were
prevalent. The era of georgical improvement
in the shire has been placed at the Union of
1707. At this auspicious period the county
was fortunate in possessing some men distin-
guished as much for their patriotism, and desire
of promoting the melioration of the soil and
climate, as for their eminent rank. The first
park or pleasure-ground in the shire was one
containing 500 acres, which was formed by the
Duke of Lauderdale, during the reign of
Charles II., in the parish of Haddington. He
surrounded it by a wall twelve feet in height,
and, through the wealth he had accumulated
by the plunder of the country, embellished it
in an extraordinary degree. At the dawn of
the improving era, Lord Belhaven endeavoured
to induce agricultural experiments and better
modes of farming ; but it was left for Thomas,
the sixth Earl of Haddington, to lead the way
as an operative improver. This nobleman's
wife, Helen, the sister of Charles, the first
Earl of Hopetoun, had the merit of discover-
ing that trees might be raised on the low
grounds round the seat of the Hadding-
ton family at Tyningham. Lord Hadding-
518
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
ton, in his Treatise on the raising of forest
trees, relates the circumstances attendant on
this event, in so satisfactory and unaffected a
manner, that we give place to his own words :
" When I came," says he, " to live in this
place [Tyningham], there were not above four-
teen acres set with trees. I believe the rea-
son was, that it was a received notion, in this
country, that no trees would grow here, be-
cause of the sea air, and the north-east winds.
My grandfather came late to the estate, and
the civil wars of Charles I. did not permit him
to stay at home ; but when they were over, he
tried to raise some trees, which he planted
round the house and garden. My father suc-
ceeded him, who, as I have been told, both
loved and understood planting : he began to
plant, to drain, and to enclose his grounds to
very good purpose ; but his father-in-law dying,
he went to take possession of the estate, in
right of my mother, who was heiress, and set-
tled at Leslie, (in Fife), where he planted a
great deal. [This was Margaret, the eldest
daughter of John, Duke of Rothes, who died
in 1681 ; and his heiress died in 1700.] As
I was then very young, I staid at Leslie, with
my mother, and Tyningham was let to tenants :
They pulled up the hedges, ploughed down
the banks, and let the drains fill up ; so that
when I came to reside here, every thing of
that kind was in ruins, except the thickets to
the east and west of the house. As I was not
then of age, I took pleasure in sports, dogs,
and horses ; but had no manner of inclination
to plant, enclose, or improve my grounds ; but
being at last obliged to make some enclosures,
for grazing my horses, I found the cropping of
hay very expensive ; this made me wish to
have enough of my own ; yet, I did little or
nothing of that kind for some years. But as
my wife was a great lover of. planting, she did
what she could to engage me in it ; but in
vain. At last she asked leave to go about
it, which she did : And I was much pleased
with some little things that were both well
laid out, and executed, though none of them
are now to be seen — for when the designs
grew more extensive, we were forced to take
away what was first done. The first Marquis
of Tweeddale, [who died 1697,] my Lord Ran-
keilor, [who died 1707,] Sir William Bruce
and my father, with some others, had planted
a great deal. Yet I will be bold to say, that
planting was not well understood in this coun-
try till this century began [1701.] I think it
was the late Earl of Mar that first introduced
the wilderness way of planting amongst us,
and very much improved the taste of our gen-
tlemen, who very soon followed his example.
I had given over my fondness for sport, and
began to like planting better than I had done ;
and I resolved to have a wilderness." This
account was dated at Tyningham in 1733 ; and
whatsoever may be the merit due to the in-
dividuals his lordship mentions, looking to the
result, it was he who was the first great
planter in the shire. The trees he reared are
all of the hard-wood kind, and now form the
most magnificent forest in the lowlands of
Scotland. The shire, since his time, has very
much progressed in the amount of its planta-
tions, and by a late computation, it owned
about 6000 acres under natural and artificial
woods. The same Earl, farther, through the
means of some English servants he had with
him, introduced the practice of sowing grass-
seeds. After the Union, Cockburn of Ormis-
ton, by his example, and the encouragement
he gave to enterprising tenants, in introducing
long leases, did much to promote (he agricul-
tural interests of the county. About the
same time the famed Fletcher of Salton, after
his political career was terminated by the
Union, did also much to improve the hus-
bandry of his native district. A very con-
spicuous improvement was brought about
in the year 1710, by this individual. Pa-
tronizing a mill-wright of the name of Meikle,
he carried him to Holland, to pick up inven-
tions, and from thence introduced the fanners,
Meikle also formed a mill at Salton, on a new
plan, which manufactured decorticated barley,
which was thenceforth known as Salton bar-
ley. The introduction of the barley-mill turn-
ed out to be a vast improvement in this and
other shires. Throughout the last century, there
seems to have been a series of individuals of
high and low rank in the shire, who emulated
each other in the introduction of improved
modes of husbandly. We learn that fallowing
was made known for its usefulness at the be-
ginning of the century by John Walker, tenant
in Beanston ; that in 1736, Mr. Wight, Ormis-
ton, an enthusiastic agriculturist, introduced
horse- hoeing husbandry, in all its vigou:,
raised excellent turnips and cabbages, and fed
cattle and sheep to perfection ; that the pota-
to was introduced into the shire in 1740,
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
519
which was an unproductive year, but that this
useful root was first raised in fields about the
year 1 75<t, by a farmer named Hay, of Aber-
lady ; that Patrick, Lord Elibank, and Sir Hew
Dalrymple, have equally the credit of making
known the practice of hollow draining ; that two
farmers of the name of Cunningham were the
first to level and straighten ridges ; and that
John, Marquis of Tweeddale, and Sir George
Suttie, were the earliest and most successful
essayists of turnip husbandry. Through such
means, and the rise of prices consequent on the
wars of the French revolution, East Lothian
might have been pronounced at the beginning of
the present century, as standing at the very head
of the improved districts. This honourable
distinction, which it seems determined to main-
tain, as well as to lead the way in the adoption
of improvements relative to rural affairs, has
been considerably enhanced by the institution
of agricultural societies. Before the year 1743,
there was a farming society established at
Ormiston ; yet it was not till the establish-
ment of a similar institution in 1804, that such
were of extensive utility. In that year the
late General Fletcher of Salton set on foot
and patronized a farmers' society, which was
supported by several of the most respectable
and intelligent of the tenantry. It held its
meetings at Salton, where questions were dis-
cussed, and prizes given for the best essays on
agricultural subjects. After the death of its
patron, it fell into decay, the place of meeting
being found inconvenient to the generality of
members. The field being thus left open, a
new society was instituted in 1819-20, by the
exertions of the most influential and talented
agriculturists in the county, and having effect-
ed a junction with the members of the original
Salton Society, it assumed the name of the
" United East Lothian Agricultural Society."
It has for its presidents the Marquis of
Tweeddale, and the Earls of Wemyss, Hadding-
ton, and Lauderdale, while many other county
noblemen and gentlemen appear in the list
of its vice-presidents, &c. The chief objects
of the society are the encouragement of an im-
proved system of cropping, the introduction of
a superior breed of horses, cattle, and sheep,
&c. and for these purposes, prizes chiefly in
pieces .of plate of considerable value are
occasionally awarded, and public shows of
animals of different kinds are held at stated [
periods. The head-quarters of the society are
in Haddington; but it has one meeting at
Gifford and another at Salton, in the course of
the year. The funds of the society arise from
the yearly contributions of the members, and
the interest of L.500, originally bequeathed by
General Fletcher. Within the last seventy
years, no individuals have done so much for
accelerating the agriculture and improving the
breeds of cattle as the Rennies of Phantassie.
Mr. James Rennie (who died 1766) was
esteemed one of the most active and intel-
ligent men of his time ; and, among the far-
mers of the old school, was considered a
pattern of good management. He kept strong
and powerful horses, ploughed his land sub-
stantially, straightened all his ridges, built
the largest corn-stacks in the country, and, in
short, carried on all his operations with a de-
gree of energy and precision which few of his
neighbours were capable of imitating. After
his death his example was emulated by his son
George Rennie, who was born in 1749. The
success of the second Rennie as a practical
agriculturist soon came to be generally known ;
and the accurate arrangements of his farm
were a theme of praise, as well as an incentive
to emulation, among the most discerning of
his neighbours. His property was completely
fenced, thoroughly drained, well manured, and
most perfectly cleaned of every kind of annual
weed. This was effected by drilled crops, which
were horse-hoed, hand-hoed, and thereafter, if
necessary, hand-picked. In short, his whole
operations were conducted in such a masterly
style, and the culture of his farm in every re-
spect so perfect, that it was not only vastly in-
creased in productive quality, but had the ap-
pearance of a well-kept garden. Mr. Rennie,
moreover, caused the introduction of the drum
thrashing-mill, which was made by Andrew
Meikle, from a copy of an imperfect machine at
Wark. This active improver died only a few
years since. The late Robert Brown, Markle,
author of a Treatise on Rural Affairs, and
original editor of the Farmers' Magazine, dis-
tinguished himself not only by his writings, but
by his practical operations; and many other per-
sons, whose names our limits preclude the ad-
mission, have been also remarkable as the friends
of agricultural improvement in this shire.
Summing up our remarks, it may now be ad-
mitted that Haddingtonshire is pre-eminent as
a district, whose excellent agriculture may
challenge that of any other place in the whole
520
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
world ; and whether we consider its fair ex-
panse of fertile fields, its thriving fences and
plantations, or its intelligent and industrious
population, we are equally delighted with the
prospect. In recent times the farms have been
extended in size ; at present they vary from
two to five hundred acres, while many exceed
that amount. Steam, as an agent for moving
thrashing-mills, is extending in its operation,
and there are already, we believe, upwards of
twenty such engines employed. Notwith-
standing the productive qualities of the shire,
and the advantages we have attempted to enu-
merate, it is a fact no less accurate than painful
to relate, that many of the tenants in the county
are not in a prosperous condition, a circum-
stance which, we are informed, is to be traced,
first, to extravagantly high rents, which were in
many cases fixed prior to the decline of the
war prices, or were heightened by the mad
competition of the farmers themselves ; second,
to the lamentable failure of the East Lothian
Banking Company, which was rained by the
knavery of its principal functionary ; and,
third, to the insufficiency of the wheat crop
for several years. This staple product of
the shire, and on which the tenants of all the
lower part of the district rely for the means of
paying their landlords, has been destroyed for
three years by the ravages of the wheat-fly, an
insect whose progress can neither be seen nor
prevented by any known means. The pro-
duce has thus been often diminished one-half,
and in some cases two-thirds. This pest,
which seems to have first settled in this coun-
ty, has, for the last two years, been more
widely diffused through Scotland, and, we un-
derstand, it has now considerably abated in
East Lothian. The intelligence and public
spirit of the farmers of Haddingtonshire, we
are glad to find, is not unsupported by the pea-
santry and body of working classes in towns
and villages, who likewise secure the willing
commendations of the present writers for their
sobriety and industry. By the subsequent ar-
ticle, Haddington, it will be perceived that at
that place there sprung up a mechanics' institu-
tion at a period earlier than was the case any-
where but in Glasgowand Edinburgh, anditcon-
tinues, as well as a similar establishment at Dun-
bar, to be conducted on the best principles. It
is not, however, to this, but to another and yet
more obscure, though equally useful institu-
tion, of general application, that we wish to
direct the attention of the reflective part of
our readers. We allude to the establishment of
what are styled itinerating libraries. To whom
the merit is due of inventing this almost ma-
gical mode of circulating books we have never
heard, but whoever he was, his name deserves
to take its place alongside of the inventors of
paper and of printing. With an obscurity
hanging over this circumstance, we can state
with precision that the practice was first made
known in East Lothian, and very gready
improved by the indefatigable and philanthropic
Mr. Samuel Brown, merchant in Haddington,
son of the late Rev. Dr. John Brown of that
place. Itinerating libraries consist of a series of
parcels of books, each parcel containing different
works, which are stationed on a ramified scheme
throughout a given number of villages or ham-
lets ; and when the parcel is outread at one
place, it is moved on to another station, whose
parcel goes to the next place, and so on in an
endless chain. The advantages of this pro-
cess of multiplying libraries is at once observ-
ed. Hitherto the fault of all country libra-
ries has been, that the readers, in time, perused
the whole stock of books, and then the insti-
tution declined for lack of a sufficient supply
of fresh materiel. Here this evil is complete-
ly obviated, for there is procured a permanent
juvenescence in the establishments, at the
most moderate expense. Accoiding to Mr.
Brown's mode, there is a head station, where
the books lie for some time, after which they
are sorted and put in operation. The system
pursued by this gentleman we give by an ex-
tract from a communication with him on the
subject. " The plan of itinerating libraries
was introduced in 18! 7, and it has been at-
tended with a degree of success unexampled in
the history of reading associations. It com-
menced with five divisions of fifty volumes
each; and there are now (1830) upwards of
2000 volumes belonging to the institution.
The new books are kept for a few years at the
head library at Haddington for the use of sub-
scribers, and afterwards they are arranged into
divisions of fifty volumes, and stationed in the
towns and villages of the country for two
years, when they are removed and exchanged.
The regular removal and supply of new divi-
sions has excited and kept up such a disposi-
tion to read, that in several stations there is
frequently not a volume left in the library-box.
To persons acquainted with the issues from
HADDINGTONSHIRE.
521
the usual settled libraries of 2000 volumes, or
even of a much smaller number, and of thir-
teen years' standing, the following statement
will appear almost incredible. The issues of
books at Haddington to the subscribers have
been nearly eight and a half times per annum
for every volume kept for them. The gratui-
tous issues at Haddington have been seven
and a half times every volume ; at Gifford,
Saltan, Aberlady, North Berwick, Belhaven,
and Spott, they have been seven times every
volume ; and the issues of the whole establish-
ment, so far as reported, have been on an
average five times for every volume, or 10,000
issues of 2000 volumes." It may farther be
stated that the divisions of books are all kept
in boxes, or presses, and deposited with care-
ful individuals. In all cases these librarians
have acted gratuitously. It is suggested that the
presbyterial divisions of the country might with
advantage be chosen for the establishing of a
round of divisions, and that the parochial school-
masters, in many cases, might be the best indivi-
duals to commit them to. Mr. Brown continues
— " Some years ago I printed a statement, show-
ing that a society with L.300 a-year, would, in
twenty years, furnish two libraries for every
parish in Scotland, by lending a division at
L. 1,5s. a-year, and applying the proceeds, with
their income, in purchasing new divisions. I
am about to publish a calculation, to show that
a British and Foreign Itinerating Library So-
ciety in London, with an annual income of
L.5000, would by its assistance and example
supply Europe, or the reading part of the
whole world, with such libraries. With the
assistance of some Jamaica proprietors, and
the Scottish Missionary Society, I am about
to send out four divisions to Jamaica, so as to
prove the suitableness of the plan to our colo-
nies. Already twelve divisions were got up
last summer, chiefly by the exertions of an
Edinburgh lady, and sent to our North Ame-
rican colonies. A few years ago a society
was formed in Edinburgh for supplying Mid
Lothian; but not having been supported, it
did not commence operations." We need say
no more of these institutions, which, if pro-
perly managed, and supported by donations
from gentlemen who have large libraries of
books, many of which go to wreck on the
shelves, while they might be diffusing their
concentrated knowledge ove* - the country, we
have no doubt would soon be propagated over
every shire in the kingdom. We shall be grati-
fied to learn that these observations have led to
a trial, in other places, of the practicability and
efficacy of such establishments. We have rea-
son to believe that Mr. Brown, whose zeal
deserves the highest praise, will readily give
every information on the subject Hadding-
tonshire comprehends twenty-four parishes;
three royal burghs, namely, Haddington, Dun-
bar, and North Berwick ; and the populous
towns and villages of Prestonpans, Tranent,
Aberlady, Belhaven, Ormiston, Dirleton, Sten.
ton, Tynninghame, Cockenzie, East Linton.
Gifford, Saltan, &c. The trade and manufac-
tures of the district, which are not extensive,
are carried on in these places, and we refer to
the individual heads for information on this
topic. The valued rental of the lands in the
shire in 1811 amounted to L. 180,654, and ot
houses, L.6870, all sterling money. The po-
pulation in 1821 amounted to 16,828 males,
18,299 females; total, 35,127. Of these,
there were 3009 families chiefly employed in
agriculture, -2947 families chiefly employed in
trade, manufactures, or handicraft, and 1978
families not employed in any of these classes.
Haddington, a parish in the above county,
extending seven miles in length from west to
east, by a general breadth of about five, though
in one part, at the middle, its breadth is not less
than eight miles; bounded on the north by part
of Gladsmuir, Aberlady, and Athelstaneford,
on the east by Preston-kirk and Morham, on
the south by Yester and Bolton, and on the
west by Gladsmuir. This inland part of the
county lies higher than the flat lands further to
the east, but it is generally fertile anS of great
beauty, as regards its luxuriant plantations and
enclosures, its well-cultivated fields, and its
verdant parks. It is intersected from west to
east by the Tyne, a small river, whose banks
within the parish are ornamented by the seats
of Clerkington, Amisfield and Stevenston. In
the southern part of the parish stand the seats
of Lennox Love or Lethington, and Cols-
toun. The former is the principal curiosity
in the neighbourhood of Haddington, and is
situated in a fine plain, a mile to the south. It
consists in a massive old tower, and a modern
addition. The ancient part was erected by the
Giffords ; and as a specimen of the strong and
lofty, is matched by no fortalice in Scotland,
with, perhaps, the exception of Cassillis in
Ayrshire. It came bv purchase into the hands
3x
522
HADDINGTON,
of the Lauderdale family about the end of the
fourteenth century, and was the chief residence
of that family during the period when its re-
presentatives were so noted for their state ser-
vices. It was here that Sir Richard Maitland,
when blind with age, dictated his poetical pieces
to his daughter Mary, and here that Secretary
Lethington laid the crafty plans which have so
distinguished his name in Scottish history.
Their relative John, Duke of Lauderdale —
the infamous Lauderdale — also was born and
spent many years of his life in this castle, which
he only ceased to occupy as his country house,
on enlarging Thirlstane Castle at Lauder, to-
wards the end of his career. Lethington Cas-
tle must have always derived more beauty than
strength from its situation. It rises from
ground perfectly level, and thus is surrounded
not by the cliff or the moat, but by the more
agreeable features of a garden domain. A
grove of lofty aged trees, mingled with the
minuter beauties of shrubbery and flower-plots,
hems it closely round ; at a greater distance, it
is fenced from the less lovely and lordly part of
the world by an extensive park, protected by a
vast rampart-like wall. Its orchards, which
produced the fruit famed under the name of
Lethington apples ; its alleys green, one of
which is still called the Politician's Walk, from
having been used by the secretary; its "knottis"
and arbours ; its " bow-buts" and its thousand
" pleasours ma," have all been commemorated
in an ancient poem preserved by Mr. Pinkerton
in his " Ancient Scottish Poems." The finest
sight at Lennox Love is a full length portrait
of Frances Theresa Stuart, Duchess of Lennox,
the most admired beauty of the court of Charles
II., and the object of the passion of that sove-
reign himself, who endeavoured for her sake to
divorce his queen, and disgraced Lord Claren-
don for not preventing her marriage to his
cousin. It is reported by Grammont, that the
king caused this lady's person to be immor-
talized, by having it represented as the emble-
matical figure Britannia on the copper coin of
the realm. She was a daughter of Walter
Stuart, M.D., a son of the first Lord Blan-
tyre ; and Lethington got the additional name
of " Lennox Love," from being a compliment
to ber from her husband, by which means it
came into the family of Blantyre. The portrait
mentioned, which is by Lely, represents a tall
woman, with that voluptuous completeness of
feature and person which seems, perhaps from
22.
the taste of the painter or of the times, to
characterise in so peculiar a manner the beau-
ties of this reign. Besides this bewitching
portrait there are other excellent ones of Queen
Mary, the admirable Crichton, the Marquis of
Montrose, and Lord Belhaven. To the south,
within sight of Lethington, stands the mansion-
house of Colstoun, the seat of the ancient family
of Brown of Colstoun, now in the posses-
sion of its representative, the Countess of Dal-
housie. This place is chiefly worthy of atten-
tion, on account of a strange heir-loom with
which the welfare of the family was formerly
supposed to be connected, namely, a pear which
has existed in all probability five hundred years,
and which is disposed in some secure part of
the house, so as to be out of the reach of all
danger. The story connected with the " Cols-
toun Pear" is mentioned in Crawford's Peer-
age, and is also a matter of popular tradition.
Haddington, a royal burgh, the capital of
Haddingtonshire, and the above parish, is com-
modiously and pleasantly situated on the left
bank of the Tyne, on the great road betwixt
the English and Scottish capitals, at the dis-
tance of sixteen and a half miles from Edin-
burgh, eleven from Dunbar, and thirty eight
from Berwick-upon-Tweed. It is reported to
be a town of great antiquity ; and by our more
cautious antiquaries is presumed to have been
the place of settlement of a Saxon chief, named
Halden or Haden, the son of Eadulph, from
whom its designation has been derived. Others
have deduced the name from Ada, the daugh-
ter of the Earl Warren, who was married in
1139, to Henry, the son and heir of David I.,
as this territory was settled on her ; but this
etymon, we suspect, is advanced without the
consideration that the name of Hadintun — the
Hadina of Cambden, and the Hadintona of
Fordun — was in use when this lady entered on
possession of the lands. There is, or was, a
place in Lincolnshire with the same name, and,
as we suppose, having its title from the same
origin. Haddington comes into notice in re-
cords in the twelfth century as a demesne
town of the Scottish king. David I. occupied
it as his burgh, with a church, a mill, and other
apurtenances of a manor. Ada, who afterwards
possessed it, was attentive to its interests, and
influenced by her piety, founded here, in the
year 1178, a convent of Cistertian nuns, which
she consecrated to the Virgin, and endowed
with the lands of Clerkington. The lands
HADDINGTON.
52S
commonly called the Nunlands, now named
Huntington, belonged likewise to the nuns of
this place, together with the churches of Ath-
elstaneford, and Crail in Fife, with their tithes.
Eve, prioress of Haddington, is one of the
subscribers to Ragman's roll in 1296. The
fine manors and wealth of this monastery tempt-
ed the cupidity of the neighbouring barons, and
it appears that in 1471, the lairds of Yester and
Maker ston actually seized, without the least
pretence of justice, the lands called the Nun-
hopes, which they retained till compelled by
the privy council and parliament to restore them
to their helpless female owners. Such was the
anarchy of the times, that some time after-
wards the nuns had to raise fortifications round
their different granges, to protect them from
the aristocratic thieves in the vicinity. In
1548 the Scottish estates, under Arran, met in
the nunnery, and resolved on sending the young
queen to France. When the Reformation
took place, the prioress, who was dame Eliza-
beth Hepburn, was ordered to give a statement
of the monastic estates, with a view to their
confiscation and the suppression of the house.
In February 1561, this lady, the last of the
prioresses, complied with this imperative man-
date. She reported her revenues to be L.308,
17s. 6d. annually, besides seven chalders and
eleven bolls of wheat, and stated that there
were eighteen nuns in the convent who were
each allowed L.4 yearly for clothes, four bolls
of wheat, and three bolls of meal, with eight-
pence a-day for flesh and fish. The queen
conferred the greater part of the lands on her
secretary, William Maitland, Sir Richard's eld-
est son. There was also a monastery of Francis-
can or Grey friars at Haddington, where the
first Lord Seton was buried 1441, who it
seems was one of its chief benefactors, as he
gave the monks a right to take six loads of
coals weekly from his coal-pit of Tranent, and
the value of three pounds annually out of the
Barns. The monastery was defaced by Edward
I. The choir of the church, which is now in
ruins, was anciently called Lucerna Laudoniae
• — the Lamp of Lothian, because of its beautiful
structure, and on account of its being kept con-
stantly lighted, and therefore rendered visible
from a great distance by night. Fordun thus
describes the edifice as it existed in his time —
the fourteenth century : " Opus certe quod
sumptuosum erat, ac totius patrke illius sola-
tium singulare, cujus chorus quidem, ob lumi-
nis claritatem, Lucerna Laudoniae vocabatur."
On the east side of the Nungate stand the
ruins of a chapel dedicated to St. Martin.
To return to the history of the town. On the
demise of Ada, the kind patroness of Had-
dington, it became the property of her son,
William the Lion ; and here, says the minute
George Chalmers, in 1180, was decided the
famous controversy between the monks of
Melrose and Richard Morville, the constable,
about the forest and pasture on the Gala and
Leader, before William with his brother Earl
David, and many clergy and laymen, who set-
tled the dispute in favour of the Monks. In
1198, was born at Haddington, to William and
Ermengard, their son, Alexander, (II.), who
succeeded to the Scottish throne. During
those joyous times, throughout the three reigns
of David I., Malcolm IV-, and William,
Haddington seems not to have felt the miseries
of war. It was first involved in warfare, after
Alexander II. had taken part with the Eng-
lish barons against their unworthy sovereign.
In 1216, it was burnt by King John. In
1242, it was the scene of the assassination of
Patrick Earl of Athole, whose house was
burnt at the same time- In 1244, the town
was again burnt, but by accident, and in the
same year, a number of Scottish burghs suffered
a similar fate. Haddington has also to deplore
the devastation of water at different times.
The Tyne, which is fed by streams from the
Lammermoor hills, seems to have been parti-
cularly liable to overflow its banks. One of
its most disastrous inundations was that of
1358, when whole villages were swept off, be-
sides trees, out-field moveables, and human
beings, and the very existence of Haddington
was imminently threatened. On the flood ap-
proaching the monastery, it is related that a
nun taking up the statue of the Virgin,
threatened to throw it into the water, unless
Mary protected her house from destruction ;
on which the water, says Bowmaker, the
Monkish continuator of Fordun's History,
retired and gradually subsided within its former
limits. An equally perilous inundation hap-
pened since the Blessed Virgin ceased to ex-
ercise any influence in this country — namely,
in the year 1775, when the river rose seven-
teen feet above its ordinary bed, overwhelmed
the suburb called the Nungate, and laid the
whole of the town under water. Haddington
was taken possession of by the English aiftfit
5-24
HADDINGTON.
the battle of Pinkie, and next year endured a
siege from the Scots, which makes a consider-
able figure in history. The last great confla-
gration the town endured was accidental, and
happened about two hundred years ago. It
was occasioned by the carelessness of a nurse-
ry-maid, who had placed a screen containing
clothes too near a fire during the night. In
commemoration of the incident, the magis-
trates ordered the following quaint and curi-
ous lines to be recited through the town by
the bellman every evening during some of the
winter months, a custom which is kept up till
this day. The ceremony got the name of
" Coal and Can'le." —
A' guid men's servants whae e'er ye be,
Keep coal an' canle for charitie,
Baith in your kitchen an' your ha',
Keep weel your fire whate'er befa'.
In bakehouse, brewhouse, barn, and byre,
I warn you a' keep weel your fire ;
For often times a leetle spark
Brings mony hands to meekle wark ;
Ye norricesthat has bairns to keep,
See that ye fa' na o'er sound asleep,
For losing o' yer'e gude renown,
An' banishing o' this barous toun."
The situation of Haddington, so near the
frontier of the kingdom, required that it should
be well fortified against assault. It was ac-
cordingly surrounded by walls of considerable
strength, and had gates or ports flanked with
pieces of cannon. It is only in recent times
that these emblems of a turbulent age have
been removed. Although, as we have seen,
frequently a royal residence, the town has long
ceased to show any very significant traces of a
palace or castle ; the only relics of what tradi-
tion points out as having been an edifice of
this kind, are found at a short distance from
the western port of Haddington, within the
walls. The town has been much improved
and renovated within these few years, and is
now one of the best built, the most comforta-
ble, and well conditioned towns in Scotland,
and bears a marked resemblance to some of the
old respectable country towns in England. It
consists of a main or High Street, lying in the
direction of east and west, with a Back Street
parallel to it on the north, and two cross streets
at their eastern extremity. The High Street,
which is a continuation of the s - oad from
Edinburgh, is a spacious and handsome street,
with excellent high houses on each side, and
some elegant buildings. The Town -house
and County-hall is a respectable fabric, stand-
ing by the point where the High and Back
Streets separate. It is now distinguished
by a handsome spire, after a plan by Mr.
Gillespie Grahame, of very recent erection,
which rises to 150 feet in height. The
apartments used as a jail for the town and
county are connected with this edifice. In the
High Street are the George and Bell Inns,
which have been long known on the road by
travellers for the extent and quality of their
accommodations. The principal shops, some
of which would not demean the metropolis in
their appearance, are also situated in this
thoroughfare. In the Hardgate and North
Port, by which the road to the east leaves the
High Street, there are also many good houses,
some of which are in the villa style, and of re-
cent erection. The different thoroughfares
were some years ago, principally by the exer-
tions of Provost Dunlop, greatly improved by
the laying down of side pavement, a luxury
which, when found in a provincial town, at once
marks the taste and wealth of its inhabitants. A
bridge of four arches connects the town with the
ancient suburb of Nungate, which lies on the
right bank of the Tyne, and carries across the
roadtoDunse. The most beautifid characteristic
of Haddington consists in its possession of a
number of charming and luxuriant gardens, and
a considerable number of villas in the out-
skirts, chiefly along the road from Edin-
burgh. On a piece of level ground to the south,
but on the same side of the river, stands the
already mentioned Franciscan church, still a
noble Gothic building, though partly desolated.
It is no less than 210 feet long, and is sur-
mounted by a square tower, ninety feet in
height, and of beautiful architecture. The
chancel, or west end of the cross, was some
years ago thoroughly repaired, and now forms
a very handsome and tasteful parish church, —
the whole edifice, once filled with praying
monks and religious pageants, being found
much too large for the exercise of the reformed
religion. Around, is the spacious cemetery of
the parish, in which lie the remains of various
persons eminent in their time, — among others,
in an aisle of the Maitland family, in which is
a monumental structure of alabaster, the
Duke of Lauderdale and the Rev. John
Brown, a celebrated dissenting clergyman at
Haddington, and the author of some learned
and pious works. Haddington had the honour
of giving birth to John Knox the Scottish Re-
II A D P I N G T O N.
525
former. This celebrated man was born about
a hundred feet to the east of the church, in a
street on the other side of the river, called the
Giffordgate. The house in which he first saw
the light does not now exist ; but the people
still point out the field to which it was attached,
and from which it would appear that the Re-
former's father was a small crofter, a man main-
tained in the good old way by tilling a few
acres of land. Being situated in the heart
of a populous and rich agricultural district,
Haddington has grown into prosperity by serv-
ing as the depot of the inland trade in this part
of the country, and more particularly from being
a favourite place for the sale and purchase of
grain in open market. In this latter respect
it can only be called second to Dalkeith ; as
to the sale of oats, its only other rival is
Edinburgh, in the whole of the south-east
part of Scotland. The market-day is Friday ;
oats and barley being exposed at half past
twelve, and wheat at one o'clock. In the
morning there is a butter, egg, and poultry
market. On this day the town is the centre
of attraction to the numerous and very intelli-
gent body of East Lothian farmers, who here
meet with a great number of corn dealers and
others from Edinburgh, Leith, and various
other quarters, attending to purchase grain.
The town possesses no great manufactories ;
but has a number of traders who carry on an
extensive business in their different depart-
ments. Branches of the Bank of Scotland
and British Linen Company are settled in the
town. There are daily coach conveyances to
and from Edinburgh and Berwick. The
county courts of the sheriff are held here every
Thursday during session time, and a sheriff
6mall debt court every alternate Thursday. A
justice of peace court is held on the first Tues-
day in every month, except March, May, and
August, in which months the court is held on
the first Thursday. At one time the court of
justiciary used to make Haddington a station
in one of its circuits, but all business requiring
its settlement is now carried to Edinburgh.
As a royal burgh, its civic government is vested
in a provost, two merchant bailies, a trades
bailie, a dean of guild, a treasurer, eleven mer-
chant and one trades councillors, and seven
deacons of trades. There are nine incorporated
trades, which are represented in council by the
trades bailie, trades councillor, and seven dea-
cons above mentioned. In former times of
burgh misrule, a great part of the extensive
property in land of the burgh was alienated.
In later days, unsuccessful searches after coal
have sometimes proved as efficacious in di-
minishing the funds as the peculations of the
town-council, though perhaps, from the com-
parative freedom of the " set," the civic rulers
have generally exhibited a greater sympathy with
the people than in most other burghs. The
expenses of the town are defrayed out of the
revenue arising from the remnant of the burgal
property, — fees of burgesses, entrance, &c.
without any assessment upon the inhabitants.
The burgh joins with Jedburgh, Lauder, Dun-
bar, and North- Berwick, in electing a member
of parliament. Besides the parish church, which
is collegiate, there are in the town two meeting
houses of the United Secession church, one of
Original Antiburghers, one of the Congregation-
al Union, and an Episcopal chapel. Haddington
is the seat of a presbytery. Its fast days are the
Wednesdays before the first Sunday of March
and last Sunday of June. The town has an
excellent academy or high school under the
patronage of the magistrates ; a parochial
school, besides some private teachers. For
some years the active inhabitants of this thriv-
ing town have been zealous in supporting and
encouraging one of those institutions called
schools of arts, which has obtained a well-
merited reputation. Something of the kind
was begun so early as 1816, but the institu-
tion did not assume its present name and cha-
racter till a later date. It opened about the
same period as the Edinburgh School of Arts,
and commenced its tenth session in December
1830. An annual payment of three shillings
constitutes a subscriber a member of the so-
ciety, and entitles him to the benefits of the
lectures and library. The funds are further
augmented by donations. Besides lectures on
chemistry and other sciences useful in their
application to mechanical and agricultural arts,
arrangements have been made for lectures on
ethics, the physiology of man, astronomy, mi-
neralogy, &c. A museum is in progress com-
prising a veiy considerable number of specimens
in natural history, mineralogy, &c. and the
library of the institution now contains upwards
of two hundred and twenty volumes, treating
of different branches of science, philosophy,
and useful knowledge. There is likewise a
collection of apparatus for performing experi-
ments in chemistry, galvanism, pneumatics, as-
526
HADDINGTON.
tronomy, mechanics, &c. The institution was
originally, and has been throughout, much in-
debted to the fostering care of Mr. Samuel
Brown, the establisher of the itinerating, lib-
raries in East Lothian, and also owes much to
the gratuitous and meritorious lectures on dif-
ferent branches of science and philosophy, by
some young gentlemen of the town. The in-
structions communicated by this excellent in-
stitution have had the most beneficial effect,
not only in making the artizans of the town
more skilful in their various professions, but
in cultivating mental faculties hitherto lying in
worse than profitless neglect, and to be found,
when sought for, alike in the lower and upper
classes. A gratifying result of the degree of
order and prudence produced by the exertions
of the society, is now witnessed in the estab-
lishment of a mutual assurance or friendly so-
ciety, suited to the circumstances of the work-
ing classes, for granting benefits during sick-
ness, paying deferred annuities after the as-
surers have attained sixty years of age, and
making payments at death. This institution
is patronized by the members of the school of
arts, out of which it originated at the end of
the year 1830, with the best prospects of
success. Besides this there are many friendly
societies, and the amount of money annually
collected by them gives a very favourable view
of the providence of the working classes of the
town. The other institutions are as follows :
— The United Agricultural Society of East
Lothian, which meets several times in the year
at Haddington and Salton. The East Lothian
Horticultural Society recently established, with
every prospect of success, a Gardener's Socie-
ty; the East Lothian Society for propagat-
ing the knowledge of Christianity ; the East
Lothian Bible Society, which, we believe, has
the merit of being the first auxiliary to this
Society established in Scotland ; and a public
dispensary, at which medical advice and medi-
cines are given to the poor ; a dispensary for
clothing, &c. ; a savings bank ; a public library,
left to the town by Mr. John Gray ; and a
subscription library. Haddington is too near
Edinburgh to be able to support a native news-
paper; but there occasionally issue from its
press pamphlets of a respectable order, chiefly
relative to rural affairs, and it now sustains a
monthly periodical. Fairs are held on the se-
cond Tuesday of July, and on the second
Thursday in October ; and there are lour
trysts annually. There is an extensive distillery
adjoining the town, and another in the Nungate,
a brewery, and several tan -works. Haddington
gives the title of Earl to a branch of the an-
cient family of Hamilton. Thomas Hamil-
ton, son of Hamilton of Priestfield, was emi-
nent as a lawyer in the reign of James VI.
who constituted him a senator of the college
of justice, secretary of state, baron of Binny
and Byres in 1613, and Earl of Melrose in
1619. With Ins Majesty's approbation, he
changed the title to Earl of Haddington ;
recently, however, the present earl, while heir
apparent, was created a British peer by the
renovated title of Baron Melrose. The fami-
ly seat is at Tyningham, in the parish of
Whitekirk, about eight miles to the east. —
The population of the town of Haddington in
1821 was 3600, and including the parish,
5255.
HALADALE, a river in the parish of
Reay in the north part of Sutherlandshire,
rising from the heights twenty miles inland,
and which, after flowing in a northerly course
through Strath Haladale, falls into the Pent-
land Firth at Tor or Bighouse, near the pro
montory which is .named from it, Haladale
Head.
HALA VAILS, two lofty and very similar
mountains, standing within a mile of each
other, in the parish of Kilmuir, Isle of
Skye.
HADDO, a place in the parish of Meth-
lick, Aberdeenshire, nine miles north- north-
east of Inverury, on the right bank of the
Ythan. It gives a second title to the Earl of
Aberdeen, whose ancestor was Gordon of
Haddo.
HALFMORTON, a district in Eskdale
Dumfries-shire, being the half of the abrogated
parish of Morton, now attached to the parish
of Langholm, which it joins on the north ; it
lies between Cannoby and Kirkpatrick- Flem-
ing. The Sark divides it from the former.
The old church of Morton stood near a ham-
let of the same name on the eastern side of that
river ; it became ruinous after the annexation.
There is now a dissenting meeting-house here.
— Population in 1821, 553.
HALKIRK, a parish in the county of
Caithness, bounded by Thurso on the north,
Watten and Latheron on the east, and Latheron
also on the south. From the south-west end,
where it is separated by a ridge of hills from
HAMILTON.
527
Sutherlandshire, to the place where it is connect-
ed with Thurso parish, it extends about twenty-
one miles, by a breadth of from seven to eight.
The surface is generally flat, there being at
least no hills of very considerable height. It
is generally uncultivated, and feeds a great
number of sheep and black cattle. It possesses
several small straths, where the soil is good
and under cultivation. It has also a number
of small lakes, the largest of which is three
miles long by one broad. From this one of
the main tributaries of the Thurso water is
emitted, and intersects the district. On the
right bank of the stream, at the very northern
extremity of the parish, stand the kirk and
village of Halkirk. On the opposite side of the
water, within the parish of Reay, is situated
the ruined castle of Braal, an ancient seat of
the Earls of Caithness. A mission chapel is
situated about the centre of the district. —
Population in 1821, 2646.
HAMILTON, a parish in the middle
ward of Lanarkshire, lying on the left bank of
the Clyde, opposite Dalziel and Bothwell ;
bounded by Blantyre on the north, Glassford
on the west, and Stonehouse and Dalserf on
the south. The district is of a square compact
form, extending from five to six miles each
way. A small portion lies on the right bank
of the Clyde enclosed by Dalziel, and extend-
ing to the village of Motherwell. A still
more minute portion lies detached on the north
of this, at a place called Broadhurst. The
main part of the parish is a beautiful territory,
richly wooded, well cultivated and enclosed,
and abounding in hamlets and gentlemen's
seats. It is watered by a number of small
tributaries of the Clyde, the chief of which is
the Avon, which flows through the south-east
part of the district in a northerly direction, and
falls into the Clyde a little way above Hamil-
ton palace. The surface of the land has un-
dergone many beneficial improvements in re-
cent times. Coal abounds throughout, and
limestone is found in the upper part of the pa-
rish. The district was anciently named Cad-
you, though upon what etymology is uncer-
tain, and the ruins of a castle of that name still
stand on a romantic situation, on the summit
of a precipitous rock, the foot of which is
washed by the river Avon, and surrounded by
the remains of a forest of very fine aged oaks.
Cadyou was originally a royal possession, as
Alexander III. is found to date charters from
" castrum nostrum de Cadohow." It was then
the seat of a barony. On the opposite or
right bank of the Avon stands Chatelherault,
once a seat of the Hamilton family, and
now a summer-house of the Duke. It is sur-
rounded with a fine old park, embellished
with ancient trees. In the reign of Robert
Bruce, the property fell into the possession of
the Hamilton family, who have ever since re-
tained it. In 1445, when this race first came
prominently forward in state history, Cadyou
and some of the neighbouring baronies were
erected into one lordship, in favour of Sir
James Hamilton, who conferred upon it his
own name, and from it took the rank of a lord
of parliament. A slight sketch of the history
of this family will be very serviceable in illus-
trating topographical details in different parts
of the present work. It is represented by
genealogists, though upon very defective evi-
dence, that the first man of the family was one
Bernard, a near kinsman of Rollo, first Duke
of Normandy, who flourished in that coun-
try at the beginning of the tenth century.
The great- great grandson of this personage was
Roger de Bellomonte, lord of Pont Audemar,
who accompanied William the Conqueror to
England in 1066. His son, Robert de Bello-
monte, arrived in England on the same occa-
sion, and having conducted himself with an ex-
ceeding degree of valour, he was rewarded by
William with ninety-one lordships and manors ;
and afterwards was created Earl of Leicester
by Henry I. His grandson, Robert, the third
earl, had three sons, the youngest of whom was
called William de Hambledon or Hamilton,
because of being bom at the manor of Ham-
bledon, in the parish of Barkby, hundred of
East Goscote, county of Leicester. He had
a son named Sir Gilbert Hamilton, who was
the first of his race that settled in Scotland.
He removed thither, according to the same
questionable authority, in the reign of Alex-
ander II., 1214-49, by whom he was kindly
received, and married a sister of Thomas
Randolph, first Earl of Moray. The more
authentic history of the family commences in
the reign of Robert Bruce, with a Sir Gilbert
Hampton or Hamilton, an English knight who
sought refuge in Scotland, as is said, on ac-
count of the following circumstances : — One
day, while at court, he happened to speak fa-
vourably of King Robert Bruce, whereupon
John de Spenser, an officer in waiting, and a
528
HAMILTON.
favourite of Edward, thinking the discourse re-
flected on his master, gave him a blow, which
he resented so highly, that, next day, he fought
and killed his antagonist. His friends, well
knowing that Edward would resent the death
of his favourite, advised him to fly into Scot«
land; which he accordingly did. He was,
however, pursued in his flight, and being near-
ly overtaken in a wood, he and his servant
changed clothes with two wood-cutters, and,
taking their saw, were cutting through an oak
tree when the pursuers passed by. Perceiving
his servant to take notice of them, he hastily
called out to him " Through," which word,
with the oak and saw through it, he took for
his motto and crest, in memory of his happy
deliverance. It would appear that this knight
became a favourite courtier and fellow- warrior
of King Piobert, and that he was gifted by that
sovereign with the barony of Cadyou, which, as
already mentioned, had previously been a royal
demesne. An old manuscript now in our pos-
session mentions, among the services performed
by Sir Gilbert in behalf of Bruce, that he was
one of seven knights who " kept the king's per-
son" in the battle of Bannockburn ; a fine trait
of chivalric history. The MS. further adds, that
he " continued with the. said King Robert till
liis death, [i. e. the king's death,] and was at
his burial at Dumfermling, and made ane sin-
gular oration, in manner of deploration, in his
lawd and commendation ; for he was ane natur-
al orator in English, and could exprime maist
mater in little room." Sir James Hamilton,
the sixth knight in descent from Sir Gilbert,
was " a bold and cunning man, and by shifting
of sydes made himself great." He was origin-
ally a dependant of the powerful family of
Douglas, a name which at one time deprived
majesty of half its allegiance, and threatened it
with utter extinction. In 1455, when the
King and the Earl of Douglas drew up their
respective friends to fight out their quarrel in
a pitched battle, Sir James is found to have
ranked as an important adherent of the latter
person. Being on this occasion prevailed to
desert to the king, his example was so contagi-
ous, that Douglas suddenly found himself al-
most friendless, at a moment when he had ex-
pected to overthrow the whole force of his so-
vereign. For this good service, Hamilton was
rewarded by the king with broad lands and a
peerage. He married for his second wife, in
1474, Marj', eldest daughter of the king,
(James II.) and widow of Thomas Boyd,
Earl of Arran, by which princess he had a son,
James, second Lord Hamilton, who was created
Earl of Arran by James IV., and received a
grant of the island of that name. By the lack
of heirs in that line of the royal family, the son
of this earl had only betwixt him and the
throne, Mary, the daughter of James V, af-
terwards queen. In consideration of his pro-
pinquity to royalty, the Scottish estates created
him regent during the minority of the young
queen. For accomplishing the marriage of this
princess to the dauphin, in opposition to the
wishes of Henry VIII., the French king con-
ferred upon him the title of Duke of Chatel-
herault, with a pension of 30,000 livres a-year.
Under this name he took an active part in the
transactions which mark the history of Queen
Mary's reign, and died 1574-5, his title of
Duke of Chatelherault being resumed by the
French crown. A series of misfortunes over-
took his two sons and heirs. The family
titles were attainted in the person of his eldest
son James, third Earl of Arran, for openly
aspiring to the hand of Queen Mary, and other
misdemeanours, and he died without issue.
His brother, Lord John Hamilton, commen-
dator of Aberbrothock, in 1567, entered into
an association to rescue Queen Mary from
the castle of Lochleven, and on her escape,
flying to his estate of Hamilton, she there
held her court, and proceeded from thence to
Langside, where her forces were defeated ; the
castle of Hamilton was besieged and taken, and
Lord John went into banishment. He was,
however, recalled with other banished lords by
James VI. ; was restored to the family estates,
and created, in 1599, Marquis of Hamilton.
His grandson, James, the third Marquis, was
a devoted partizan of Charles I. during the
national troubles, and for his services, was, in
1643, created Duke of Hamilton, Marquis of
Clydesdale, Earl of Arran and Cambridge,
Lord Avon and Innerdale, and, in 1646, had
a grant of the hereditary office of keeper of
the palace of Holyrood. Unfortunately for
himself, he promoted to the utmost of his
power " the Engagement" to raise forces
for the relief of the king ; h is troops, as the
reader of history will remember, were defeated ;
he was brought to trial before the same court
by which the king had been condemned ; was
tried and sentenced to be beheaded for the
crime of levying war against the people of
HAMILTON.
529
England, and submitted to his doom in Pa-
lace Yard, Westminster, on the 9th of March
1649. The estates and titles were again for-
feited, but William, the brother of the last
duke, being taken into favour by Charles II.
when in his exile, was restored to the honours
of his family. He was slain at Worcester in
1651, and the Hamilton title descended to his
niece Anne, eldest surviving daughter of
James, the first duke. By this lady the sur-
name of Douglas was introduced into the fa-
mily, in consequence of her marriage to Lord
William Douglas, eldest son of the first Mar-
quis of Douglas, by his second wife ; who, at
the Restoration, through the interest of his
wife, was created duke of Hamilton, being
thus the first duke in the Douglas line, and
the third of the title. This peer performed
the noted service in the cause of liberty, of sit-
ting as president of the Convention Parliament,
which settled the crown upon William and
Mary. From him there has been a regular
succession of dukes till our own times ; the
family having been farther dignified, in the year
1711, by the additional British title of Duke
of Brandon (in the county of Suffolk.) In the
roll of titles, that of Duke of Chatelherault
still finds a place, as the family never formally
abandoned their right to it, though, of course,
it is not of the least efficacy either in this
country or in France. From junior branches
of the Hamilton family have sprung different
noble and ' gentle ' families in Ayrshire, Had-
dingtonshire, and other places in Scotland ;
and whether from its being the premier peer-
age of the kingdom, the figure which the fami-
ly has made in history and politics, or the
circumstance that, failing the Brunswick line,
it is the next protestant branch of the Royal
Family in succession to the crown of Scotland,
it is certain that no title carries with it more of the
veneration of the country than that of Hamilton.
Hamilton, a town in the middle ward
of Lanarkshire, and the capital of the above
parish, occupies a pleasant situation, at the dis-
tance of ten miles and a half from Glasgow, fif-
teen from Lanark, seven from Strathaven,
eight from Airdrie, and thirty-six from Edin-
burgh, and lies on the roads betwixt Glasgow
and Carlisle, and Edinburgh and Ayr. It
originated in the fifteenth century under the
protecting influence of the lords of Hamilton,
who, on being elevated to that condition, con-
stituted a place called the Orchard, between
this point and the Clyde, the principal mes-
suage of the "barony, and which till this day is
the chief seat of the Hamilton family. There
may, however, have been a hamlet here prior
to this transaction. The church of the parish
was situated in its vicinity, and was a house of
some note. David I. granted it with its perti-
nents in perpetual alms to the church and bi-
shops of Glasgow, and the gift was ratified by
several popes. John, the first regularly esta-
blished bishop of Glasgow, (1115-47) consti-
tuted the church a prebend of the cathedral,
and the cure was served by a vicar. In 1451
the first Lord Hamilton elevated the church
to the character of a collegiate foundation, the
vicarage being annexed to the benefice of the
provost. This establishment comprehended
a provost and eight prebends, to each of whom
his lordship gave a manse and garden, with a
glebe upon the haugh of Hamilton. The Refor-
mation terminated these ancient ecclesiastical
arrangements, and the church lands, tithes, or-
chards, houses, and pertinents belonging to it,
were restored, almost as a matter of course,
to the noble family which had originally gifted
them away. Fortunately, the church itself
was not destroyed or abandoned. Originally
a fine Gothic building of the date 1451, raised
by Lord Hamilton, with a choir, two cross
aisles and a steeple, all highly ornamented, it
continued to be kept in repair, and used as the
parish church till 1732, when, a new church
being built, it was almost entirely pulled down.
It was situated near the present palace, and the
only part preserved is an aisle which covers the
burial-vault of the family of Hamilton. East
from the modern church, which occupies an
eminence, and is an elegant structure, the pre-
sent town of Hamilton has been reared. In
former times the town encompassed the resi-
dence of the Hamilton family ; but in order to
extend the parks round the mansion, the houses
were gradually purchased and cleared away, and
the new buildings were erected more to the
south and west. The situation of the town
is now along the base of a rising ground,
extending nearly a mile in length. It consists
of several streets of substantial well-built
houses, not very regularly disposed, but hand-
some in appearance, and the whole town has
an air of respectability, comfort, and activity,
much superior to that of Lanark, notwith-
standing that the latter has long had the ad-
vantage of higher political privileges. Ha-
3 Y
500
HAMILTON.
milton lias a number of resident gentry, and
from its proximity to the establishment of the
duke at the palace, it derives a considerable
share of its support. It is also the capital of
the middle ward of the county, and the centre
of the inland trade of a populous agricultural
district. Its moderate distance from Glasgow
has caused the introduction of weaving cotton
goods to a large amount. Seven hundred men
are employed in this profession, out of a popu-
lation of about six thousand. A branch of the
British Linen Company's bank is established.
The general nature of the trades carried on may
be understood by the following list made up a few
years ago, and since increased, — thirteen agents
to manufacturers, two auctioneers, fourteen
bakers, six blacksmiths, three booksellers and
stationers, fifteen boot and shoemakers, two
brewers, three cart and wheelwrights, three
china and glass dealers, two coopers, six fire
insurance agents, eight fieshers, twelve grocers,
thirty grocers and spirit dealers, six inns and
taverns, three ironmongers, four land-surveyors,
eight linen and woollen drapers and haber-
dashers, one muslin manufacturer, two millers,
nine milliners and dressmakers, three nailers,
four painters, thirteen physicians and surgeons,
twenty-seven public houses, four saddlers, three
seedsmen, two stocking manufacturers, four-
teen tailors, two tallow chandlers, two tanners,
eight teachers, two timber merchants, two
tin plate workers, three watch and clock
makers, seven wrights and carpenters, one
coach builder, ten writers and notaries, besides
other miscellaneous professions. There are
regular daily coach conveyances to and from
Glasgow. The town has two academies, and
besides the parish church there are two meet-
ing-houses of the United Secession church,
and one of the Relief body. Hamilton is the
seat of a presbytery. The charitable institutions
are, an hospital endowed by the Hamilton fa-
mily for the reception of eight old men, who
enjoy a house, with coals, and L.5 yearly j an
hospital endowed by Mr. James Robertson
for nine old men, who have each L.4 yearly,
and a suit of clothes every two years. There
are also some friendly societies and two mason
lodges. The town has a neat town-house and
prison, and a commodious market-place. The
municipal authorities had formerly a privilege
of levying a custom or pontage upon all per-
sons passing by Bothwell- Bridge, but this is
no* abrogated. A weekly market is held on
23.
Friday, and there are four annual fairs. At
the commencement of the town in the fifteenth
century, its patron, Lord Hamilton, erected it
into a burgh of barony. Queen Mary created
it a royal burgh, but this privilege afterwards
merged in tbe hands of the Hamilton family,
who constituted it a burgh of regality. It is
now governed by two bailies and ten council-
lors. The justices of peace hold regular
courts, and the town has a stamp-office, tax-
office, and post-office. In the vicinity to the
west, on the road to Bothwell, a very spacious
square of barracks for cavalry was some years
ago erected. The great objects of a-ttraction
in this quarter of Lanarkshire are the palace
of the Duke of Hamilton and its surrounding
pleasure grounds. This princely mansion,
which was built anew in the years 1695-6, is
delightfully situated on a flat expanse of mea-
dow or haugh betwixt the town and the Clyde.
Recently the house has been greatly modern-
ized and increased in size and accommodations,
after a plan by Mr. David Hamilton of Glas-
gow. A splendid portico in front, formed
of a double row of immense Corinthian pillars,
surmounted by a lofty pediment, has a very
striking effect, and harmonizes finely with the
other decorations. Hamilton Palace enjoys
the distinction of possessing the best gallery of
paintings in Scotland; it comprehends many
excellent pictures by Italian and other masters.
The parks around the mansion are reckoned
the largest and finest in Scotland, measuring
1400 acres in extent, and being adorned with
stately trees. In the part north-west of the
house, on the banks of the Clyde, is an ex-
tensive race-course, on which horse races
have occasionally taken place, noted as being
among the best in Scotland Population of
the town in 1821, 6000, and including the
parish, 7085.
HAND A, a small pastoral island, of about
a mile square, on the west coast of Sutherland-
shire, opposite the northern part of the parish
of Edderachylis. It is precipitous on its north
side.
HARLAW, a place in Aberdeenshire, dis-
trict of Garioch, at which a battle was fought
in 1411, between the royal forces under the
Earl of Marr and Donald, the potent lord of
the Isles. The slaughter in this contest was
very great, and the former party was victorious.
HARPORT, (LOCH) an arm of the sea
on the west coast of Skye, projected inland in
HARRIS.
531
a south-easterly direction from the bay called
Loch Bracadale. It forms a safe harbour for
shipping.
HARRAY and BIRSAY, aunited parish
in the north-western part of the mainland of
Orkney. Birsay is the part presented to the
coast j Harray being of smaller dimensions,
lying to the east of the Loch of Stennis. —
Population of Harray in 1821, 719, and of
Birsay 1526.
HARRIS, a district of the Hebrides, form-
ing, with the larger district of Lewis, one con-
siderable island. In some maps, Harris appears
as if separated by a water boundary from Lewis ;
but this is very erroneous. The political divi-
sion is by an imaginary line drawn betwixt
Loch Resort on the west coast, and Loch Sea-
forth on the east ; some little streamlets, how-
ever, descend to these arms of the sea on either
side, and, by the proximity of their origin,
countenance the idea that Harris and Lewis
are distinct islands. Harris, in one part, is
nearly divided into two parts, by the similar
approximation of West Loch Tarbet and East
Loch Tarbet, which leave only a neck of land
of about half a mile in breadth. At the head
of West Loch Tarbet is situated the solitary
village of Tarbet. Harris has several fresh
water lakes ; its shores are indented by a
number of small bays ; and in its vicinity there
are a variety of islands which belong to it. The
district of Harris is a joyless desert of bare rock,
black bog, and dismal mountains, being, even
in its low sheltered spots, productive of only a
very scanty herbage. That part of it north of
Tarbet is entitled the Forest of Harris, though
totally destitute of trees. The length of the
whole is twenty miles, by a breadth of eleven
miles in the northern part, and from six to
seven in the southern. On the shores there
are patches of cultivated land ; the rearing of
cows and black cattle further tends to support
the inhabitants ; but the chief source of profit
was, till very lately, the manufacture of kelp.
The lowering of the duty on barilla having con-
siderably reduced this trade, the people, as in
other parts of the Hebrides, are left in great mi-
sery, which, it is to be hoped, however, may only
be temporary. Harris is an independent parish
in the presbytery of Uist, and its kirktown and
capital is Rowadill or Rowdill, a small village
at the south-east corner of the island at the
head of Loch Rowdill. Here was founded in
early times by Macleod, the lord of the dig
trict, a monastery of Canons Regular of St.
Augustine, dedicated to St. Columba. It is
mentioned by tradition that there were at one
period no fewer than twelve chapels through-
out this desolate territory and its islands, de-
pendant on the monastery of Rowadill, — a
proof only of the devotion of that age, for the
population must then have been much smaller,
and at present a single church is all that is ne-
cessary for the religious interests of the inhabi-
tants. The church of Rowadill is that which
was in use by the Canons, and is an object of
curiosity, as being the only Roman Catholic
structure which remains entire in the whole of
the Western Islands. It is rendered still more
curious by some extraordinary sculptures on its
front which do not bear description. Between
Harris and North Uist is the Sound of Har-
ris, a chaos of rocks and islands, intricate in its
navigation.— Population in 1821, 3909.
HARTFELL, a mountain in Dumfries-
shire, near the town of Moffat, at the base of
which is the mineral well for which Moffat is
reputed.
HASCOSAY, a small island in the Shet-
land group, lying in Colgrave Sound, between
Yell and Fetlar.
HAVEN, (EAST and WEST) two
villages in Forfarshire, parish of Panbride,
lying on the sea shore on the coast road to
Arbroath. They are chiefly inhabited by
fishermen.
HAVERSER, an islet in Loch Bracadale
Isle of Skye.
HAWICK, a parish in Roxburghshire, ex-
tending about sixteen miles, by a breadth of
two in the upper part, and fully three in the
lower. It has W ilton on the north, Cavers and
Kirktown on the east, and Robertonon the west.
A very considerable part of the district is hilly
and pastoral. But another portion, lying along
the banks of the Tiviot, is either cultivated or
planted, the whole of it being well enclosed.
In this district of Tiviotdale, the scenery is
soft and pleasing, and, among the most de-
lightful rides in Scotland, is that by the Car-
lisle road from Hawick, up the banks of the
river, and from thence along the courses of the
Ewes and Esk to Langholm. The district is
productive of historical and poetical associa-.
tions, and abounds in objects of an attractive
kind. After passing Hawick, at the distance
of two miles, on the right bank of the Tiviot,
the tourist will observe the ancient tower of
532
H A W I C K.
Goldielands, one of the most entire now ex-
tant upon tbe Border, and over the gate of
which itslast laird (a Scott) is said to have been
hanged for march treason. The old and fa-
mous house of Branxholm, the principal scene
of the " Lay of the Last Minstrel," and during
the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries the resi-
dence of the Buccleugh family, stands about
a mile further up the river, on the opposite
bank. Little of the original castle remains,
the whole has now the appearance of an or-
dinary manor-house, and is the seat of the
chamberlain of the Duke of Buccleugh.
Hawick, a thriving populous town in the
above parish, occupying an agreeable situation
on the right bank of the Tiviot, at the distance
of forty-nine miles from Edinburgh, twenty
from Kelso, eleven from Selkirk, and forty-
five from Carlisle. Its name is partly descrip-
tive of its site. A stream called the Slitter-
ick, poured from the uplands on the south, is
here received into the Tiviot, and in a bend or
wick which it makes before entering the river
once stood a Hall or HcC — the earliest house
erected in the town. In 1214, the church of
Hawick was dedicated to St. Mary, and was
long made use of as a court-house, even after
the Scotican canons had prohibited such an
abuse of the sacred edifice. While it was thus
made to serve temporal, as well as spiritual
purposes, it was stained with one of the foulest
of crimes. In it the sheriff of Tiviotdale held
his court, while the English possessed the cas-
tle and town of Roxburgh, and in June 1342,
while Sir Alexander Ramsay, one of the most
gallant and honest men of that age, was sitting
in judgment, he was seized by William Doug-
las, the knight of Liddisdale, who was incensed
against him for having been invested with an
office which he considered to belong to himself
as a right. This ferocious knight, transport-
ing his victim to Hermitage Castle, plunged
him into one of the dungeons below that dreary
castle, (see Castletown) where he perished of
hunger. David II. granted to Maurice de Mo-
ravia, Earl of Strathearn, the barony of Haw-
ick, and at the beginning of the fifteenth cen-
tury it became the property of Douglas of
Drumlanrig, the ancestor of the Queensberry
family. In the year 1545, one of the descen-
dants of this superior conferred a charter on the
inhabitants of the town, confirming them in
those rights and lands they had previously pos-
sessed. In this charter is found the following
curious specification. One James Blair was
taxed with " one penny of the kingdom of
Scotland, upon the ground of his half particate,
for finding and furnishing one lamp, or pot, of
burning oil, before the altar of the parish church
of Hawick,, in time of high mass and vesper
prayers, all holidays of the year, in honour of
our Saviour Jesus Christ, and praying for the
souls of .the barons of Hawick, the founders of
the lamp, and their successors." The charter
of Douglas is confirmed by one from Queen
Mary, dated in the same year. By these char-
ters the town was constituted a free burgh of
regality. From its propinquity to the border,
Hawick generally suffered severely from the
incursions of the English, and was more than
once burnt. One of its severest conflagra-
tions was in 1570, when it was set fire to by
the English under Lord Sussex. This caused
a species of architecture to prevail in the
houses, some specimens of which yet exist.
The houses were built like towers, of hard
whinstone, and very thick in the wall ; vault-
ed below ; no door to the street, but an arched
entry giving access to a court-yard behind, from
which the second flat of the building was ac-
cessible by a stair ; and the second flat com-
municated with the lower only by a square
hole through the arched ceiling. The present
head inn, called " the Tower," was a fortress
of a better order, belonging to the superior of
the burgh, and the only house not consumed
by the forces of Sussex. It was, at a late
period, the frequent residence of Anne, Duchess
of Buccleugh and Monmouth, (for an account
of whom see Ettrick,) and there were persons
lately alive who remembered the princely style
of living of that dignified noblewoman. From
the vexatious and destructive fires raised by
the English, the town invariably recovered
through the exertions of its active inhabitants,
who, on occasions of border strife, frequently
behaved with great bravery. In the present
day the town chiefly consists of a single long
street, on the right bank of the Tiviot, which
is here crossed by a stone bridge. In this
spacious thoroughfare, and the subsidiary
streets, there are many excellent houses, regu-
larly built. On the" left bank of the river
lies also a portion of the town, but built in a
more irregular manner. The Slitterick inter-
sects the main part of the town, and is crossed
by two bridges, one of which was built in early
times, and is of a particularly antique construe-
II A WICK.
533
tion. The approach to the town by the south
or Carlisle road is exceedingly beautiful, pur-
suing its way along the flat banks of the Tiviot,
which are ornamented in no small degree by
the extensive nurseries of Messrs. Dickson
and Company, which were established here
under the auspices of the same firm, or at least
the same family, upwards of a century ago.
The streets of Hawick are well paved, and
are now lighted with gas. "Water is also in-
troduced by leaden pipes. Hawick has been
long celebrated for the extent of its manufac-
ture of goods formed from wool, especially
lambs' wool. Although, like the natives of
Galashiels, the inhabitants of this place had to
contend against the great distance from coal,
and an extensive inland carriage, they long
since essayed manufactures on a liberal scale,
and their efforts have been crowned with that
success which must always attend a persevering
and intelligent body of artizans. The expe-
rience of nearly a century has directed industry
into those channels which it has discovered to
be the most profitable and the most apposite to
the region in which its operations are carried
on. The carpet manufacture was established
in 1752, the inkle manufacture in 1783, and
the manufacture of cloth in 1787 ; but these
branches ultimately merged in that of the stock-
ing manufacture, which was begun in the year
1771. The person who first engaged in it was
Bailie John Hardie, who for some time em-
ployed four looms, which, on an average, pro-
duced annually about 2400 pairs of stockings,
mostly of the coarser kind. He is understood
to have been the first manufacturer of stockings
in this part of Scotland ; and by persons taught
in his shop, the manufacture was planted in
Wooler, Kelso, Jedburgh, Langholm, Melrose,
Selkirk, and other places. In consequence of
family distress, Mr. Hardie abandoned the
trade, after carrying it on for ten years, when
it was taken up by Mr. Nixon. Since that
period the number of manufacturers of stock-
ings has increased to upwards of twenty, who
employ between five and six hundred looms ;
and it was calculated that there were lately
about 900,000 pounds weight of wool spun into
yarn, three-fifths of which was wrought up into
hose, &c, and the remainder sold to manufac-
turers of stockings in Leicester, Derbyshire,
Glasgow, &c. Some of the stocking manu-
facturers are at the same time yarn-spinners.
There are various carding mills, with full sets
of machinery, all wrought by water. The ma-
nufacturers are in some cases their own sales-
men ; and it is remarked by retailers in Edin-
burgh and elsewhere, that almost no class of
commercial men possess such a degree of acti-
vity and perseverance. The manufacture of
blankets and gloves, the tanning of leather and
dressing of sheep skins, also engage attention.
Hawick has likewise a very respectable domes-
tic retail traffic, and altogether it may be es-
teemed the principal manufacturing and trading
town in the south of Scotland. Placed in the
centre of the wild border country, Hawick
must, in some measure, be considered an ano-
maly. The people have all that propensity to
political speculation, and that jealousy of the
power of their rulers, which usually character-
ise persons habituated to trade and intercourse
with the world. This is ingrafted on the old
primitive spirit of the Border, and gives a very
strange cast to what yet remains of that ori-
ginal character. One of the most curious pe-
culiarities of the inhabitants is one not uncom-
mon in parts of the country where there are
many individuals with the same surname,
namely, a custom of giving every person, be
his station what it may, a to-name, or soubri-
quet, in conformity with the well-known an-
cient practice of the frontier clans. To such
an excess has this usage been carried, that
it often happens that a man is better known
by his nickname than his real designation ; in-
deed we have heard it mentioned as a fact, that
strangers have occasionally felt a difficulty in
discovering the individuals they were inquiring
for by their real appellations. The soubriquets
are generally conferred from some personal pe-
culiarity or quality of the mind, and, however
ridiculous, are sometimes very amusing. The
people of Hawick and the neighbouring district
speak with a remarkably strong patois, differing
from all other intonations in the provinces ; but
it is, upon the whole, mellifluous, and soon
ceases to be disagreeable. Hawick is noted
among topers for its " gill." A Hawick gill is
understood, by the universal courtesy of Scot-
land, to imply half-a-mutehkin, or two gills,
although we have never met any person able to
elucidate the cause of so lucky an exception to
the general rule. It will be remembered that
of the mistress of Andrew wi' the Cuttie Gun
the old song says,
Wed she loo'ed a Hawick gill,
And leuch to see a tappit hen;
534
HEBRIDES.
the latter phrase signifying the equally joyous
appearance of a frothing measure of claret.
The inhabitants of the town, which is thus as-
sociated with the materials of conviviality, are
well known for their social habits, their absence
of affectation and ceremony, and their blunt
open sincerity of behaviour. Here nearly all
classes mingle in common intercourse in public
and private life ; and there prevail a tone of in-
dependence and an ease in manners, which will
in vain be sought for in the generality of Scot-
tish towns of this size, where small annuitants
and the civic magistracy form the only aristo-
cracy. The desire for a knowledge of public
events has caused the institution of two of the
best reading and news-rooms to be met with
anywhere in the country, and which are con-
ducted on liberal principles. The town has
several booksellers' shops and libraries ; and
from the press of Mr. Robert Armstrong there
has issued a variety of useful and agreeable
publications. A school of arts was established
some years ago, which has been of essential be-
nefit to the community. There is a farmer's
club, which was instituted as far back as 1776,
and which meets once a- month for the discus-
sion of questions connected with agriculture.
The town has a good grammar school, and va-
rious private teachers. In approaching Haw-
ick, its most conspicuous object is a tall square
turret, rising from the centre of the town,
which is the steeple of the old church of the
parish. Besides this place of worship, there
are two meeting houses of the United Se-
cession Church, and one of the Relief body.
The annual fast day of the church is the
"Wednesday before the last Sunday of June-
The prosperity of Hawick has been much
indebted to the spirit of its civic govern-
ment, which has all the privileges of a royal
burgh without the abuse of self- election,
and the right of sending a member to parlia-
ment. As a free burgh of regality, the magis-
trates are elected annually by the burgesses ;
there being two bailies and two representatives
of each of the seven incorporated trades, which,
with fifteen standing councillors, elected for
life, manage all municipal affairs. A weekly
market is held every Thursday ; and there are
four annual fairs, with a cattle tryst in October,
to which great numbers of black cattle are
brought for sale, in passing from Falkirk tryst
to Carlisle and Newcastle fairs. — Population
of the town in 1821, about 3000 ; including
the parish, 4387.
HEBRIDES (THE), or WESTERN
ISLES, a series of islands and islets lying on
the western coast of the Highlands, at a greater
and lesser distance from land, though with lit-
tle certainty as to the right which many of
them have to be placed under this denomina-
tion. Generally speaking, every isolated por-
tion of rock and soil, between the north lati-
tude of 58° 35' southwards to the extreme
point of the Mull of Cantire, has been reckon-
ed one of the Hebrides — the Hebudes, iEbu-
dse, or .<Emodae of the ancients. Arran, Bute,
the Cumbrays, even the Isle of Man, and
Rathlin Isle on the coast of Ireland, have re-
ceived this appellation ; but by a modern and
more limited comprehension, the term is only
applicable to the direct series of western isles,
ranging within Lewis, Uist, Benbeeula, Barra,
and Mingalay on the north, and Skye, Raa-
say, Canna, Rum, Eigg, Coll, Iona, Tiree,
Mull, Colonsay, Jura, and Islay, upon the
south. Politically, they pertain, according to
situation, to the shires of Ross, Inverness, and
Argyle. Altogether, they are computed at
300 in number, 86 of which are inhabited.
The peculiar character and condition of these
interesting islands being noticed in our article
on the Highlands, as well as under individual
heads, it is here unnecessary to enter into any
special description of them. The history of
the Western isles, which for many centuries
had little or no political connexion with the
mainland, is involved in a considerable degree
of obscurity, and almost the only fact which
the chroniclers can establish is, that they were
long under the domination of petty chiefs,
sometimes independent, and at other periods
under the superiority of the kings of Norway,
and latterly subject to the Scottish monarchy.
According to Macculloch, unknown Celts,
Irish pirates, Galwegian kings, Vikingr, Nor-
wegian viceroys, chiefs and chieftains, sea-fights
and land- fights, plundering, burning and slaugh-
ter, usurpation and rebellion, are the objects
and ideas which compose their history. In
the twelfth century, the petty kings or lords of
the isles began to disturb the peace of Scot-
land. One of them, named Somerled, in ] 153,
invaded the mainland, and made an attempt to
dethrone Malcolm IV. but was defeated by an
army under Gilchrist, Earl of Angus. In &
HEBRIDES.
535
subsequent descent in 1163, be was defeated
and slain near Renfrew. In 1188 the people
of the isles chose Reginald to be chief, but
doubtful of his right, in 1204, he did homage
to John of England, in hopes of eventual pro-
tection. Olave, a competitor for the chief-
tainship, was possessed of the isle of Lewis,
and married a daughter of the Earl of Ross,
which was the first alliance betwixt a lord of
the isles and those Highland families of rank.
Olave subsequently became king of the whole
isles, including Man, and seems to have been
the most powerful chief of his race, being de-
pendent on Norway by a very slight tenure.
After his death in 1237, the separate jurisdic-
tion of the outer and inner Hebrides began to
be shaken, his sons Harold, Reginald, Magnus,
and Godrid, not being possessed of that power
which could secure the existence of so rude a
sway. Alexander II. king of Scotland, set on
foot negotiations with Haco, king of Norway,
to treat for the cession of Bute, Arran, and
the Cumbrays, but without effect. His suc-
cessor, Alexander III. in 1261, renewed these
negotiations ; and being equally unsuccessful,
he attacked, ravaged and took the islands by
force. An expedition of Haco to relieve his
afflicted dominions having failed, through his
defeat at Largs, Alexander sent the Earls of
Buchan and Moray, with Allan of Atholl, to
the islands ; where they acted with great cru-
elty. Magnus the third son of Olave, and
the last independent chief, died in 1265, and
with him terminated the Norwegian kings of
the isles. Another Magnus, the son and feeble
successor of Haco, could not maintain the tot-
tering power of his father. In 1266 he enter-
ed into negotiations with Alexander for the
cession of his isolated territories, and by a
treaty signed at Perth, be resigned all future
claim on the Hebrides, in consideration of
4000 merks to be paid annually for four years,
and an annual payment of 100 more for ever.
By this memorable event the western isles and
the isle of Man were attached to Scotland, but
the latter was subsequently lost during the con-
tests for the Scottish crown. Notwithstanding
this extinction of the power of the Norwegians,
the western isles were long exempted from the
jurisdiction of the Scottish kings. The descen-
dants of the chiefs, real or pretended, claimed
still the title of Lords of the Isles, and the
Macdougals, the Macdonalds, and other heads
of septs, were frequently at feud for feudal su-
premacy among themselves, and in their exter-
nal wars often gave the crown considerable
uneasiness. Instead of quenching these al-
most independent barbarians by force of arms,
the kings of Scotland, who were seldom with-
out need of allies, purchased their good will
by grants of territory, and confirmations of
the titles of Lords of the Isles, and even
by greater concessions. John, the son of
Angus Og, Lord of Cantire, received in
marriage a daughter of Robert II., by which
alliance to the royal family his descen-
dants rose in their pride and consequence.
One of his sons, Donald, invaded and plun-
dered Ross-shire, at the head of 10,000 men,
and after ravaging the country, was defeated,
or at least received a severe infliction at the
battle of Harlaw, in 1411. The anarchy
produced by this and similar events in the
south of Scotland, induced James I. to com-
mence a regular war against the more turbu-
lent chiefs, many of whom he captured and
hanged, and finally he defeated Donald of the
Isles, who fled to Ireland, where he was put
to death. Throughout the fifteenth century,
there were, however, repeated aggressions on
the part of other men equally turbulent, and
unwilling to acknowledge any sovereign. It
was not till the reign of James V. that the
Lords of the Isles came into complete subjec-
tion to the crown. As the sixteenth century
advanced, the power and the number of claim-
ants to the distinction of that title became nar-
rowed within a more and more limited circle.
At length, the Macdonald, the last authorized
Lord of the Isles, died ; and though, since that
period, there have not been wanting claimants
to superiority and antiquity, of the surname of
Macdonald, Maclean, Macneil, Mackintosh,
Macleod, and Mackenzie, some of whom have
been as fierce with the pen as their ancestors
were with the sword in their attempts to
establish their right to the title of Lord of the
Isles, the appellation has not been restored.
Most of the possessions of the ancient Lords
of the Isles were secured by the crown, which,
to strengthen its authority, parted with the
islands to different heads of clans on the main-
land, of which that of the Campbells of Ar-
gyle was the most favoured. In 1589, the
island of Lewis, the chief of the outer He-
brides, was granted to some gentlemen of Fife,
for the purpose of being civilized, but with-
out profiting these lowlanders, as it fell into
HEBRIDES.
the hands of Mackenzie of Kintail. Few to-
pographers have hitherto concerned themselves
with the etymologies of the names of the
islands of the Hebrides, which are certainly
the subject of a most excusable curiosity, espe-
cially as they illustrate the early history of
these distant isles, and often substantiate
their primary possession. On this matter we
consider it sufficient to lay before the reader
the substance of a disquisition and catalogue
of names by Dr. John Macculloch. Although
we haye occasionally given the etymology where
the island happened to be treated of, it will,
to use the Doctor's own words, " be advantage-
ous to see the whole in one collective view ; as
that will convey a notion, both of the principles
of nomenclature adopted, and of the proportion
which were relatively named by the Northmen
and by the natives. While we have," says he,
" distinguished the conjectural or doubtful from
the certain, and further classed them according
to certain analogies, we must also remark, that
where the number of names appears less than
the number of the islands, it is partly because
a few of the most insignificant, particularly
where they appeared hopelessly corrupted, have
been passed over, but chiefly on account of the
frequent occurrence of the same name for
many different islands. Thus there are no less
than four called Rona; as many called Flota,
Berneray, Glas, Fladday or Flattay ; while
there are duplicates or triplicates of Soa, Wiae,
Ghia, Boreray, Linga, Longa, and others.
Hence you will perceive that very few of the
whole number of names remain unexplained.
We have seldom thought it necessary to distin-
guish the Scandinavian terms according to the
different dialects or languages of the Moesogo-
thic radical. The following catalogue is de-
rived from saints, to whom there were churches
or chapels dedicated in some of the islands, and
who seem to have been mostly of Irish extrac-
tion, as were all the followers of St. Columba.
They may thus be considered chiefly of Gaelic
origin, being only modified or corrupted by the
Scandinavian ey, which has passed successive-
ly into ay and a.
Elannan
Barra
Colonsa
Kerrara, Kiarara
Mul Don-ach
Oransa
from St. Flann.
St. Barr.
St. Columba.
St. Kiaran.
St. Duncan.
St. Oran.
Besides Marnoch, Martin, Chenzie and
Inch Kenneth, St. Cormac's Isles, and St.
Kilda. In the Scandinavian, we find a divi-
nity, which may rank with these; Taransa,
from Taran or Thor ; and in the Gaelic there
are Gigha and Gia, a corruption of Dia ey,
God's Island ; as is proved by the Norwegian
name, which is written Gud ey in the account
of Haco's expedition. Animals are a frequent
source of these names, and among them there
are both Scandinavian and Gaelic etymologies.
In the first are the following :
Soa
the isle of swine.
Raasey,
from Raa,
of roes.
Tirey,
Tiur,
of bulls.
Jura,
Diur,
of deer.
Canna,
Kanin,
of rabbits.
Orsa, Oersa,
Eorsa,
Joor,
of horses.
Ulva,
Ulffur,
of wolves.
Haversey,
Hafur,
of he-goats.
Levenish
Lava nish,
of birds.
Calva, Calve, or Calf, a common Norwegian
name, found in Mull and Man, is not named
exactly from the animal, but from being re-
lated to the main island as the calf is to the
cow. Cara, Kyr ey, the Island of Cows, and
Handa, Hynd ey, that of Hinds, appear ra-
ther possible than certain. In the Gaelic,
there are, from the same source :
Rona, ron the isle of seals.
En say, eoin of birds.
Mullagroch, Mul grach,
or graich a stud of horses.
Inish Capel the isle of mares.
Eilan an each of horses.
Tanera, tan of the herd.
Muck, muc of swine.
Whether Eilan na Monach, na Clearach,
and Inch Cailleach, the Isles of Monks, Cler-
gy, and Nuns, are to be adopted in this divi-
sion, under Muc, or in that of the Saints, we
do not pretend to determine. Trodda, from
the Scandinavian Trolds, may be put in the
same ambiguous company. Names derived
from qualities, or resemblances, or compari-
sons, are the most common of all, and tbey
occur in both languages. In the Scandinavian
there are the following : —
Sky . • • mist.
Rum . . • spacious.
Back ... an eminence.
Egg ... an edge.
HEBRIDES.
537
Staffa, staf
Seil and Suil
Luing and Linga
Torsa, torst
Scarba, \ R
Scarpa, f bcalp
Uist
Sanda, Sandera
Vatersa
Hellesa, helle
Flota
Fladda . i
Pladda
Schillay, skil
Fiaray, fiar
Sursay, siu - .
Blada, blad
Narsey, nar .
Groay, grooa
Tahay, taa .
Opsay, op
Maltey, mallt
Isa, is
Ransey, ran .
the isle of pillars.
a sail.
long.
the dry island.
a precipice.
west.
sand islands.
water island
the island of rocks.
the island of fleets.
the flat island.
a plate.
a division ; divided.
a shore.
sour.
a leaf, leafy, grassy.
a carcass, a burying
place.
to grow, fertile.
a toe, a headland.
a hole, a cavern.
meal, fertile.
ice island.
rapine, thieves' is-
land.
The last eleven seem rather probable, but are
not so clear as the former ; they are all from
the Icelandic. Eriska seems a corruption of
Erics ey. Ailsa is similarly an apparent cor-
ruption of Hellesa ; peculiarly appropriate.
Isla is the island, xar ^o^vv, as a principal seat
of government. In the same class the Gaelic
has the following :
Arran .
. the land of moun-
tains. British.
Scalpa
a cave.
Pabba .
. stubble.
Coll .
a wood.
Mull .
. a hill.
Eysdill •
dale island.
Garveloch
. the rough rock.
Lismore .
the great garden.
Glas .
. green or grey.
Bernera
the serrated island.
Mingala .
. the beautiful.
Longa and Lunga
the isle of ships.
Craig Daive
. ox's isle.
Freaichland
the isle of heath.
Ree .
. the king's isle.
Choum
hell.
Neave .
Drum
Gillisay
Dana
Crowlin
Iona
Shiant .
Ulleram, ulla
Tesca, tec .
Borrera, bor
Biilg - .
Shuna
Bute, buta .
heaven. A monas-
tery probably.
Scandinavian and
Gaelic, a ridge.
servants' island, ser-
vants of God.
the isle of Danes.
the red.
the isle of waves.
sacred.
a burying place.
a bone, a similar al-
lusion.
a knob.
a bulge.
lovage.
a ridge.
Among these, some of the latter are question-
able. Shaw is said not to be good authority.
It is unnecessary to give the other Gaelic ra-
dicals. Lewis, Liodhus, the residence of Liod
(Macleod), is Norwegian; but does not well
fall into any of the preceding divisions. Nor
does Cumbray, from Cumr ey, the islands of
the Cumbrians, who once occupied this dis-
trict. In the names compounded of Scandi-
navian and Gaelic, we find Altwig, a moun-
tain bay, Garveilan, rock island, and Kiarna-
borg or Cairnburgh, sufficiently obvious. The
compounds from Skerscar, a rock, are occa-
sionally of this nature ; and are Skerry, with
Sulisker, Dusker, Hysker, Baisker, Carmis-
ker, Hartasker, Kelisker, and Skernamull ;
which require no further explanation. Whe-
ther the isles of Macfadyen, Macphaill, and
Macalken belonged to saints or chiefs, no one
seems to know. Of the few that remain,
little can be said. Harris is corrupt beyond
hope ; though the Gael say it is from Earrann,
a portion. It is more probably from Aras,
a habitation or settlement. Wia, Valay, and
Huna, should be Scandinavian, because they
occur in Shetland ; but their meaning is ob-
scure. Vi, vvith the plural Uiou, Ubh in
Gaelic, is an egg; a derivation applicable
enough. Lamlash seems just such an inver-
sion of Molass, the old name, as gallon is of
Lagena. Of Gometra, Fadia, Vacasey, and
the bicla part of Benbicla, or Benbecula, no-
thing can be made. Harmetia may be deriv-
ed from Armunn, a chief. The total result is
that there are about forty-six names of Scan •
3 z
538
HELMSDALE.
dinavian derivation, comprising the principal
islands, and about forty of a Gaelic or British
origin, of which nine only are of any note, and
among which Arran, Bute, Mull, Coll, and
Lismore, are the only ones that can be con-
sidered principal. If we include those named
after saints, who were rather Irish than Gaelic,
it would add twelve to the list, of which three
oidy are conspicuous ; namely, Barra, Colonsa,
and St. Kilda. The Skers being little more
than rocks, are hardly worthy of notice, and
are, besides, pretty equally divided. If we
now consider the great disproportion which
the Scandinavian bears to the Gaelic, as far
as the principal islands are concerned, it will
appear probable that the aboriginal population
was very scanty before the Norwegian inva-
sions and settlements." The Hebrides were
visited by Dr. Samuel Johnson in the autumn
of 1773, whose tour through Scotland thither
excited sufficient discussion at the time and
since.
HEISKER ISLANDS, three islands of
the Hebrides lying about eight miles westward
from North Uist. One of them is of small
size and lies between the other two, each of
which is nearly two miles long and of various
dimensions.
HELDAZAY or HILDUSAY, a small
island of Shetland lying in the inner part of
Scalloway bay.
HELENSBURGH, a modern town in
Dumbartonshire, parish of Row, lying on the
firth of Clyde opposite Greenock, twenty-three
miles west north-west of Glasgow, eight north-
west of Dumbarton, and five north of Green-
ock. The town, which is a perpetual feu
from Sir James Colquhoun, baronet, of Luss,
was commenced in 1777 ; since which period
it has risen into notice as one of the most con-
venient and agreeable sea-bathing places on the
Clyde, and now consists of a series of hand-
some houses and streets, laid out on a neat
plan. A quay was built in 1817, and has been
found of great utility. Being created a burgh
of barony in 1802, Helensburgh is placed un-
der the government of a provost, two baihes
and four councillors. The town has a spaci-
ous elegant inn, with baths at its east end, and
there are other houses for the temporary recep-
tion of visitors, besides a great variety of lodg-
ing houses. The parish kirk is at two miles
distance', but there are here a missionary chapel
and a meeting-house of dissenters. It possesses
23.
also a good school. The distillation of whisky
is almost the omy manufacture carried on.
There are four annual fairs. The situation of
Helensburgh is eminently suited for a place of
summer recreation ; the prospects around, and
especially that towards the spacious land-locked
bay of Greenock, are very beautiful, and the
country is very healthful. There are various
gentlemen's seats in the vicinity, the chief of
which is Ardincaple, the seat of Lord John
Campbell, standing west from the town, near
the Gare Loch, an inlet of the Clyde, which
penetrates some miles inland. Opposite are
the mansion and beautiful pleasure-grounds of
Roseneath. A number of steam-vessels call
at Helensburgh daily, in going to and from
Glasgow ; and it will perhaps be pointed out
with greater curiosity a century hence than at
present, that here resided the ingenious Henry
Bell, when he first applied this important spe-
cies of navigation to a practical use. — Popu-
lation in 1821 computed at 600.
HELL'S SKERRIES, a cluster of islets
of the Hebrides, lying about ten miles west
from the island of Rum.
HELMSDALE, a river in Sutherland-
shire, rising in the parish of Farr and upper
parts of Kildonan, and flowing through the
latter past Kildonan kirk, after which, passing
through the parish of Loth, it falls into the
sea about three miles south from the Ord of
Caithness. The river is valuable for its sal-
mon fishing.
HELMSDALE, a large and thriving mo-
dern village or town, situated in the parish of
Loth, Sutherlandshire, at the mouth of the
above river, from which it takes its name. It
is built on the property of the Marchioness of
Stafford, upon a principle which we have ex-
plained under the head Golspie. In this case,
the efforts of the benevolent proprietor have
been attended with success. A considerable
number of substantial houses have been built,
and an excellent harbour has been finished, to
which immense fleets of fishing-boats resort
during the herring season ( September). The
town is increasing rapidly, and its various ele-
ments are gradually settling down into com-
fortable maturity. Some thousands of barrels
of herrings are now prepared annually, and the
small port is further made the point of trade
and export to the produce of the interior, as
wool, &c. The coast-road northward passes
through the village.
HIGHLANDS.
530
HE RIOT, a parish in the south-eastern
and hilly part of the county of Edinburgh,
lying between Temple on the north-west and
Stow on the south-east. Innerleithen bounds
it on the south. With the exception of some
fields on the banks of the Gala and Heriot
waters, and at a few other places, the whole
territory, which comprehends a length of near-
ly ten miles by a breadth of five, is a confused
mass of brownish pastoral hills and vales, with
small rivulets flowing through the latter. The
only regular opening into the district is by
Heriot water, a small trouting stream which
rises among the hills and drops into the Gala
nearly opposite Crookston. On the Heriot
water stands Heriot kirk. Lately a new road
was formed between Innerleithen and the head
of one of the vales of this parish, with a design
of carrying it forward to Edinburgh, so as to
establish a direct communication between that
thriving village and the capital ; but it has not
been continued by the trustees of the roads in
Edinburghshire. Some of the hills are high
and command extensive prospects, occasionally
showing the remains of ancient encampments.
At the Reformation, the church and lands of
Heriot or Heryeth, which had previously be-
longed to the monks of Newbotle, fell into
the hands of Mark Ker, the commendator of
that abbey. The name of the parish imports
'* the fine paid to the lord of a manor on the
death of a tenant." By the division of the
land into large farms, the population has been
decreasing since 1801, when it amounted to
320 ; in 181 1 it was 300 ; and in 1821, 298.
HERMITAGE, a rivulet tributary to the
Liddel, parish of Castletown, with a castle of
the same name. — See Castletown.
HESTON, a small island in the mouth of
the bay into which the river Urr is poured,
stewartry of Kirkcudbright.
HIGHLANDS, a division of Scotland,
extending to more than the half of its whole
surface, and though much inferior in popula-
tion and wealth to the remainder, yet highly
interesting on many accounts, particularly from
the peculiar character of the inhabitants, and
the mixture of sublime and beautiful, which
characterises the surface of the ground. Ge-
nerally speaking, the Highlands form the north-
ern division of the kingdom, although it hap-
pens that the boundary line, extending between
Nairn on the Moray Firth, and Dumbarton on
the Firth of Clyde, pursues, though somewhat
irregularly, a direction varying between south
and south-west. The district includes the en-
tire counties of Sutherland, Ross, Inverness,
Perth, Argyle, and Dumbarton, upon the main-
land, together with Bute, and other islands,
besides a considerable part of the counties of
Nairn, Elgin, Banff, Aberdeen, and Forfar.
Caithnessis, in one sense, apart of the Highland
division ; but, being a level country through-
out, cannot be strictly considered as such. The
general character of the Highlands is implied
by the name which has so long distinguished
it from the Lowlands. It is a country full of
lofty hills, some of which are covered with
pasture, while a great proportion are rugged
and bare, varying in height from one thousand
to upwards of four thousand feet, and having
generally narrow vallies between, or else inland
or marine lakes. Round the bleak summits of
these mountains, the wild eagle is still seen
occasionally hovering, a sublime emblem of the
savage native of the district. In the bottoms
of the vallies, there are generally small impe-
tuousstreams, which receive accessions at every
short distance from the torrents that descend
the hills, and in the end join strength in such
a way as to form large rivers. The country
being much higher at the west side of the is-
land than towards the east, the rivers, with
hardly any exception, run towards the German
Ocean. — The Highlands are subdivided into
two districts, termed the North Highlands and
the West Highlands, — the former phrase being
applicable to all beyond Fort- William, while
the other may be considered as exclusively ap-
propriated to what remains. The Western Is-
lands, as characterised by the same peculiari-
ties of population and surface, must also be
esteemed as a subdivision of the Highlands.
The Highlands, till an era almost within
the recollection of the present generation, were
peopled exclusively by a race essentially differ-
ent from the inhabitants of Lowland Scotland ;
speaking a peculiar language, wearing a pecu-
liar dress, and exhibiting a frame of society,
and a set of manners and customs, altogether
different. In numbers, this race is not believ-
ed to have exceeded a hundred thousand, or
about a twelfth part of the co-existent popula-
tion of the rest of Scotland ; but yet they were
able, occasionally, to affect the prospects of
their numerous fellow-countrymen in no small
degree. Surviving as a remnant (though not-
altogether unmixed) of the Celtic people, who
540
HIGHLANDS.
were the first inhabitants of the west of Eu-
rope, and who gradually gave way to Roman
and Scandinavian adventurers, they hardly ever
ceased to regard the adjacent people as intrud-
ers and enemies. In the early ages of Scottish
history, we find them living under their own
chiefs, and quite independent of the sovereign.
Gradually, by the efforts of various monarchs,
especially James I. and James V. they were
induced to yield a nominal obedience. Till
the reign, however, of Charles I. they remain-
ed comparatively little known, being only oc-
casionally heard of when some dreadful tale of
savage cruelty reached the Lowlands, or some
predatory excursion was made by one of their
clans into the valleys of their now civilized
fellow-countrymen. The danger of such a
neighbourhood was first brought fully before
the eyes of the Lowland population, when the
Marquis- of Montrose engaged them in his
singular campaign against the Scottish parlia-
mentary forces, 1644-5, on which occasion,
though he had not at first above fifteen i hun-
dred half-armed and half-clad mountaineers, he
gained five victories in succession, over much
more numerous and better appointed armies,
and at last obtained possession of Scotland.
The Highlanders, arguing from their own pa-
triarchal system, were disposed, at this period,
to regard King Charles as an injured chief,
and of course, as they could make no allow-
ance for those notions of civil liberty which
actuated the general population, much less for
the religious interests of the time, they eager-
.y threw themselves into the scale in favour
of distressed royalty. Fortunately for the
conductors of the popular cause in the civil
war, Montrose was surprised and defeated at
Philiphaugh, at a time when almost the whole
of his Highlanders were absent ; and thus their
strength was for a time neutralized. They
were afterwards, with great difficulty, reduced
to subjection by Cromwell, who placed a fort-
ress at Inverness, and another at Fort William,
in order to keep them in check. In 1678,
they again, under the name of the Highland
Host, became known to the oppressed and di-
spirited inhabitants of the western counties, as
an authorized banditti, whose robberies had
been previously legalized by Charles II. As
no resistance was then offered by the people,
the only opportunity of displaying their prowess
was on their return, when the students of
Glasgow university kept the bridge of that
city, and forced a party of two thousand of
them to surrender their plunder. After the
Revolution, when their notions of hereditary
right were once more violated, they joined the
Viscount of Dundee in an attempt to procure
the restoration of James VII. and were suc-
cessful at Killiecranky in July 1689, though
the death of their leader prevented them
from prosecuting the war any farther with
advantage. From this period, the chiefs of
the various names or clans into which the po-
pulation was divided, kept up a close corres-
pondence with the exiled royal family, and, in
many cases, their sons were brought up in
France, under the eye and influence of that
unfortunate race. Being also supplied with
judicious presents of money, and with ship-
ments of arms, they kept themselves constant-
ly in a state of readiness to rise in favour of
the house of Stewart. From the chief himself,
who was either influenced by political enthu-
siasm or less worthy motives, down to the
humble serfs, who glowed with martial ardour,
over the songs of bards regarding the exploits
of their fathers, under Montrose, one common
spirit prevailed,; and only in very rare in-
stances was a chieftain ever bought off by the
existing government. The benighted igno-
rance of the people, the prevalence of the Ca-
tholic religion, the inaccessibility of the coun-
try to the virtues of peace, were all alike fa-
vourable to this state of things. Hence, at the
instigation of the Earl of Mar in 1715, the
clans arose, to the amount of ten or twelve
thousand men, and descended towards the low
country, where, from the paucity of the national
troops, and the comparatively peaceful charac-
ter of the lowland population, it seemed at
one time as if there were nothing to prevent
them from re-establishing the son of James
VII. upon the throne. Being eventually de-
feated in this enterprise, they afterwards be-
came a subject of serious consideration to
the government, and some attempts were
made during the reigns of George I. and II.
to break up their military power. An act
passed for disarming them succeeded to a cer-
tain extent, though, it is said, the clans friend-
ly to government were thereby rendered power-
less, while the disaffected tribes either retained
a great part of their weapons, or were after-
wards supplied with more. Something was
also done by the re- erection of Cromwell's
fort, and the addition of one or two more, in
HIGHLANDS.
54'
which considerable garrisons were placed, for
the purpose of overawing the country. But
the most effectual expedient was the cutting of
two lines of road, from Crieff to the two chief
*brts, which was done by the garrison soldiers,
tnder General Wade. These roads, which
were finished in 1737, and amounted altogether
to 250 miles in aggregate extent, destroyed, in
a great measure, that impregnable and fortress-
like character which had formerly belonged to
the Highlands. Yet, long ere any particular
effect was observed to result from these mea-
sures, another insurrection took place.* Un-
der the direction of Prince Charles Stuart, an
army of Highlanders descended upon the Low-
lands, September 1745 ; and having defeated a
body of national troops at Prestonpans, marched
into England, where they reached a point only
a hundred miles from the capital ere any ade-
quate force could be assembled to oppose them.
This army was ultimately defeated at Culloden,
and the terrors of military law were freely let
loose over a country which had so often of-
fended against the rest of the state. Yet,
though depressed and dejected, the Highland-
ers were still formidable. It was now seen
necessary to take various decisive measures in
order to bring the people into the great fold of
ordinary civilized life. An act for abolishing
hereditary jurisdictions, passed in 1748, was
aimed at the arbitrary power which the chiefs
had heretofore exercised over their people.
Another act decreed the abolition of the tartan,
a peculiar chequered and coloured cloth with
which they had hitherto been in the habit of
attiring themselves, .and which, from its anti-
quity and nationality, was of course intimately
associated with those feelings which the go-
vernment desired to eradicate. The disarming
act was now also carried into practice with ex-
treme rigour. In short, the Highlanders were at
once reduced fr6m the condition of a patriarchal
people, having customs, dress, and habits, differ-
ent from their neighbours, into the same state
* A most notable signification of the state of the High-
lands in the oarly part of the reign of George II. occurs
in Keith's History, which was published in 1733. After
describing the banditti who infested the borders and re-
mote Hebrides in the reign of James V., the right reve-
rend author observes, with great coolness, " Something
of this kind is to be found in the Highlands at this day,"
—rather an awkward admission, if we consider that " Ro-
bert Macgregor, alias Rob Roy," the chief of all the agi-
tators and depredators of that time, appears as one of the
subscribers for the book, amidst a host of Highland lairds
who afterwards joined in the insurrection of 1745.
with the Lowlanders, the only external differ-
ence that remained being the original Erse lan-
guage, which they had spoken for thousands of
years, and which no act of parliament could
well root out. The jacobite chiefs being now
expatriated and severed from their lands by at-
tainders, the general proprietory body of the
Highlands became friendly to government.
A totally different direction was by and bye
given to the military ardour of the people.
Regiments for the service of government were
raised in the country, and led by the sons of
the proprietors, who acted as officers, into
scenes of danger in Canada, which it was
found that no less hardy race could well en-
counter. Afterwards, in the American war
of. independence, still larger levies were tran-
sported to the colonies, where they generally
acted with greater boldness than other soldiers,
and were found better fitted to move in the
rugged defiles of the country, on account of
their previous habits of life. At one time,
ten thousand were at once raised for this ser-
vice, which, though odious to the more en-
lightened classes of the British people, was re-
garded with no peculiar feelings by the poor
Highlanders. In a later and more glorious
contest, the same people served with such well
known bravery and effect, as to need no eulogy
in this humble record.
Through the influence of the above circum-
stances, and several others which must now be
particularized, the population of the Highlands
has undergone a greater change during the laai
century than any other branch of the British
people. Previous to the insurrection of 1745,
the same system of life which had obtained
for ages was still entire. The country at
large was divided into a number of compart-
ments, each of which was inhabited by a par-
ticular tribe assuming a peculiar name. Thus,
upon the Lowland frontier, there were the
Buchanans, the Grahames, the Stewarts, the
Robertsons, &c. ; in the West Highlands, the
Campbells, M'Dougals, and M'Leans ; in
the central parts of the territory, the M'Don-
alds, Camerons, Macphersons, Macintoshes,
Grants, and Frasers. And in the north,
were the Mackenzies, the Mackays, and the
M'Leods. These tribes were of different nu-
merical power, and enjoyed larger or smaller
tracts of country. Some clans were broken
down into certain subdivisive septs, which
were headed by chieftains ; but in general the
542
HIGHLANDS.
tribe had one chief, or kean-kinnhe, (head of the
family) who was understood to be the lineal
representative of the founder of the family,
and was at once the landlord, lawgiver, leader,
and father of his people. Certain individuals
called doaine-uailse, who could trace kindred to
the chief, and were not very remote in degree
from the succession, formed a species of gen-
try in the country of the . clan, of which they
were generally assigned the management of a
certain portion. Below these was a promis-
cuous set of commoners, who lived merely up-
on the bounty of their superiors, performing
labour in peace and military service in war, in
return for their subsistence. The various
clans were frequently at feud with each other,
and on such occasions, as well as when an ex-
pedition was undertaken against the Lowland
whigs, the latter order of men formed the mass
of the army, while the doaine-uailse acted as
officers under the chief. Upon the death of
a chief, when any difficulty was found in trac-
ing the proper heir, the minor heads of the
tribe have been known to elect a provisional
leader under the title of Captain. The hus-
band of an heiress could also assume the bear-
ing of a chief. The clan has sometimes been
known, by a still greater anomaly in so dispo-
tic a system, to depose an unworthy chief and
adopt the next of kin. These were Celtic
fashions, surviving through the force of nation-
al manners, the introduction of the regular feu-
dal system of property, which may be said to
have taken place about the time of Robert
Bruce. The chiefs, in late times, were a
brave and spirited set of men, with a strange
mixture of the native Highlander and the
French gentleman-soldier. The dress of the
people throughout was simply a piece of tar-
tan, which was wrapped round the body in
such a way as to encircle the knees like a pet-
ticoat, and leave a piece loose at the top, to be
drawn occasionally over the arms. The fasten-
ing at the top was by a large metal brooch.
The better order of the clansmen, including the
chief, perhaps wore a dress more intricate and
compound than this ; but it is at least certain
that the attire in which Highlanders are now
generally painted, and which gentlemen wear
from fancy, is chiefly taken from the military
uniform assumed by the Highland regiments."
* In Windsor Palace, there is a painting by Lely, dated,
if 1 recollect rightly, in 1071. representing the celebrated
sctor John Lacy in three characters, one of which is
We have had repeated occasion to notice in
Scottish history, that the appearance of the
dress of a Highland army was such as to
give to strangers the impression of a troop of
naked savages. The chiefs were entitled to
wear an eagle's feather in their bonnets ; and
each clansman wore in the same place a sprig
of some particular shrub, or tree, which was
sacred to his tribe. A train of official persons
was attached to the person of the chief, com-
prising, in particular, a bard to commemorate
and recite the deeds of the clan, a piper to
play before him as he marched, and a hench-
man or valet, to run messages and attend to
any little personal want. The homage paid by
the tribe to their chief was as great as his power
over them was unlimited. The Highland duine
uasal, when fully armed, carried a basket-hilted
broadsword, a dagger, a pair of pistols, and a
target. The inferior class were seldom armed
very perfectly, but generally had at least broad-
swords and targets, besides carrying muskets
when such could be procured. Their custom
was to fire the muskets first, and to rush for-
ward, under the smoke, to charge with sword
and targe. The vices of the Highland char-
acter, in its native and original state, were
haughtiness and irritability ; they regarded the
Lowlanders, whom they called Sassenach
(Saxons), as mean tame creatures compared
with themselves, and entertained a general
contempt for the domestic arts and the com-
forts of peace. Their utter want of occupa-
tion, and the constant contemplation of a re-
nowned ancestry, caused them to look upon
themselves, in comparison with the commer-
cial and manufacturing Lowlanders, as,gentle-
men ; and they were scrupulous in endeavour-
ing to maintain their pretensions to that char-
acter by several evil as well as virtuous pro-
perties. They are even said to have carried
this feeling so far that, when they had occasion
to allude to any of the humbler artizans, they
would use some apologetic expression — such as
" a tailor, saving your presence" — and so forth.
Their irascibility was such as to be considered
by the Lowlanders a peculiarity of the blood : it
is still common for a Lowlander, on observing
Sandy in the Taming of the Shrew. It is perhaps wor-
thy of remark, that he appears in a pair of tartan panta-
loons and a tartan plaid; a circumstance which provci
that this cloth was looked upon by the English, in the
reign of Charles II., as the characteristic dress erf a
Scotsman. — R. C.
HIGHLANDS.
543
a man of Highland extraction getting angry, to
say, " there, your Highland blood is getting
up !" Their virtues were of the opposite char-
acter. They were hospitable to strangers, to
an extent often ruinous. In all kinds of en-
gagements, they were scrupulously faithful to
their word. Their bravery has been proved
on many a bloody field, and their disinterested
attachment to the cause which they thought
right, exhibited in every species of suffering.
Since the year 17-15, all the above peculiari-
ties of the Highlanders as a nation have been
undergoing a gradual process of extinction,
jnsomuch that the people are now less dis-
tinguishable from the Lowland peasantry, than
the latter are from the English. The principal
change has taken place in the number and em-
ployment of the population. It is evident that
in the former state of things, it was the inter-
est of the chief to have his lands as numerous-
ly peopled as possible, in order that he might
enjoy the higher political distinction. After-
wards, when the strength and sinews of men
came to be of less use to the proprietor, as he
might then rather be called, it became an ob-
ject of some importance to reduce the number
of superfluous retainers, and stock his lauds
with a different species of cattle, which he
could sell for money in the Lowland markets.
Thus for many years a process of deportation
has been kept up ; the poor clansmen, who,
in one sense, had a right to the soil as well as
their chiefs, have been carried in thousands from
the glens of their fathers, where every object
spoke to them of some endeared tale of family
history, to clear a still ruder home for them-
selves amidst the wilds of Canada. To such an
extent is this system carried that, in 1830, no
fewer than 3000 emigrants sailed from Green-
ock.* The population has been much reduc-
ed, but hard as the case appears, it is perhaps
rot to be regretted, as the country, by climate
and intractable ruggedness, is really better cal-
culated for the support of cattle than of hu-
* The difficulty and trouble with which these poor
people effect their own transportation may not be un-
worthy of notice. The circulation of money is very
limited among them, and their whole property may be
said to consist of a few black cattle and small horses, all
of which are made over to the emigrant's agent at his
own price, and which he sends to the south markets at
his own risk ; the roofs of their huts, their boats, in
short, every thing they have, must be converted by him
into money, before the necessary sum for defraying the j
freight can be realized.
man beings. It is even to be desired that
many of those who remain could also be en-
abled to emigrate, as their style of living is of
so miserable a character as to offer the very re-
verse of a premium for human existence. They
generally occupy small patches of ground, just
enough to support life, and from which they
can scarcely afford to pay any rent. Their
cottages are the most wretched hovels ima-
ginable, and notwithstanding the general kind-
ness of the landlords, their mode of life is very
miserable. Resides this class, there is just
one other of any note in the Highlands, con-
sisting of the small farmers, drovers, factois,
innkeepers, &c. who manage what may be call-
ed the business of the country, that is, the
rearing of live-stock for the Lowland and Eng-
lish shambles. As for the landlords, who are
now much more numerous than the chiefs of
old, they reside chiefly in London or in
Edinburgh, and are not distinguished by any
peculiarity whatever from those of the rest of
Scotland.
It is very common to hear the alteration of
things in the Highlands lamented, either on the
mere principle of antiquarianism, or as having
been productive of much misery to the country
itself, and much loss to the rest of the state, in
so far as concerns the decrease of population.
But, though we regret as heartily as any one
to see the vestiges of an ancient, if not prime-
val, people perishing from the face of the earth
— though we sympathize most acutely in the
pains of a compulsory emigration — and though
we are anxious to maintain the population of
the country at its highest possible pitch, — we
still think, that the change, upon the whole,
besides being practically unavoidable, is ab-
stractly fortunate for the interests of humanity
at large. The truth is, that the existence of
so large a body of uneducated and uncivilized
people, who could be turned to any purpose
theirsuperiors willed, was exceedingly danger-
ous at all times to the peace of the more in-
dustrious and cultivated community. It was
found that Highlanders would fight in causes
however adverse to civil bberty, as in the case
of America, when Lowlanders hung back; and
it is to be supposed that they would do so again.
The clearing out of the population of the High-
lands, or at least the thinning of it, has been
therefore a fortunate event for the growth of
civil liberty in Britain. The very humane
measures now adopted by various religious bo-
544
HIGHLANDS.
dies — one of which (the Society for the Diffu-
sion of Christian Knowledge in the Highlands)
was instituted by the Church of Scotland as
early as 1703 — to enlighten the remnant of the
population, will, in the course of time, smooth
down what asperities of character are yet re-
maining, and, at length, with other causes con-
spiring, place the Highlanders on a level of
education and comforts with their neighbours,
when there will be no longer any fears on this
score. It appears, from an essay recently pub-
lished under the patronage of the Highland
Society, and by the census of 1821, that the
counties of Argyle, Inverness, Nairn, Ross,
Cromarty, Sutherland, Caithness, Orkney, and
Shetland, and the Gaelic district of Perth and
Moray, comprehending 171 parishes, contained
416,852 persons, forming 78,609 families. Of
this mass, the number living in towns of above
1000 inhabitants does not make one-tenth of
the whole; and it is chiefly on the eastern
coasts that these towns occur. The extensive
shires of Inverness and Argyle comprehend
nearly one-fifth of the whole surface of Scot-
land, yet they contain only one-eleventh part
of its population. Three-fourths of the popu-
lation of the Highlands and islands still speak
the Gaelic language ; the number of persons
understanding English better than Gaelic be-
ing 133,699, that of persons more proficient in
Gaelic, 303,153. The only means of religious
instruction for this population, including forty
appointments to chapels of ease by government,
are provided by 264 parish ministers and mis-
sionaries of the establishment, eight Episcopal
clergymen, and about thirty of other persua-
sions. There are about ten Roman Catholic
priests within the Highland limits, chiefly in
the counties of Inverness and Argyle. About
12,000 persons in the western districts profess
the Roman Catholic faith. At Lismore there
was formerly a college, presided over by a
bishop, which has now merged in that of Blairs,
near Aberdeen, recently founded and endowed
by Mr. Menzies of Pitfoddels. This'is now the
only seminary for the instruction of the Catho-
lic priesthood in Scotland. In Appin and some
other places in the Highlands, there are great
numbers of Episcopalians, who have sometimes
been classed as Roman Catholics. The num-
ber of schools in the Highlands belonging to
parishes and instituted by associations is, by a
late calculation, 495. About one-half of the
Highland population is unable to read ; and a
third are so far distant from schools, that they
are unable to attend those which have been
erected for their instruction. Vast numbers
of Bibles and pious works have been distribut-
edfor some years back by different societies; still
the Bibles are in the proportion of only one
for every eight persons. In general there is
one person in every family who can read the
Bible, either in Gaelic or English. The
Church of Scotland deserves great credit for
its exertions in aid of the religious instruction
and education of the poor Highlanders. A
society has just been instituted, under the Epis-
copal Church of Scotland, for the establish-
ment of a number of lay itinerating catechists,
and the distribution of religious works in the
Gaelic tongue, in order to preserve Episcopal-
ians from, being induced to come within the
pale of the Presbyterian or the Roman com-
munions. The singular lukewarmness of the
Episcopalians, and the want of a hearty co-
operation between the clergy and laity, in fa-
vour of missionaries, have hitherto been the
means of allowing the power of the bishops to
be in many places nearly lost sight of. There
are exceedingly few towns in the Highlands.
Along the whole of the western coast, includ-
ing the inland tract, there are only two towns
and two or three villages, with a variety of
wretched fishing hamlets. On the east coast,
where the country is in few places sterile or
otherwise unfavourable to population, they are
more numerous. The only printing establish-
ment in the Highlands is at Inverness. Ideas
of feudal attachment are extinguished almost
everywhere, except in some parts of Ross and
Inverness- shires ; and the natives of all the
districts are daily losing their characteristic
hereditary features. The Highlanders of both
the upper and lower classes are seldom alive
to the value of improvements ; and according-
ingly it is remarked, that the country has been
indebted for a great part of the most valuable
to persons not connected with it by birth.
National beneficence has done much for the
Highlands, as may be learned by turning to the
article Caledonian Canal, and to the excel-
lent letter by Mr. Joseph Mitchell, which con-
cludes the present disquisition. For many
years there has been a gradual and steady in-
crease of Lowland store-farmers into the
Highland districts, and by these intelligent
men the estates have been greatly enhanced in
value. The kind of sheep formerly pastured
HIGHLANDS.
545
have given place to those of a different quality.
Within these forty years, the Cheviot has su-
perseded the original black-faced breed, and in
consequence the value of sheep farms has been
nearly doubled. To put this in a stronger
light, it may be mentioned, that the two first
prizes given by the Highland Society in 1830
were gained by Sutherlandshire farmers. The
new roads have been of immense benefit to the
sheep farmers. Till 1809, Sutherland and
Caithness were nearly destitute of roads.
Now that these have laid the country open,
the exports from the barren districts amount
annually to 80,000 fleeces of wool, and 20,000
Cheviot sheep ; and from the sea-coast, several
cargoes of grain, the produce of three consi-
derable distilleries of Highland whisky, many
droves of cattle, and from 30,000 to 40,000
barrels of herring, besides cod and ling. The
greater part of the sales of the sheep and cattle
of the Highlands take place at Amulree Tryst
in May, the Dumbarton market in June, the
Falkirk Trysts in August, September and Oc-
tober, and the Doune Trysts in November.
In all the islands and along the northern and
western coasts, a very large proportion of the
food of the people is derived from the shores.
In the outer Hebrides, from Whitsunday till
the potato crop becomes available in the begin-
ning of September, the people live almost ex-
clusively upon shell-fish of various kinds, toge-
ther with sand-eels and occasionally sea-weeds
Should a fish be found upon the shore, mang-
led by gulls, or even in an incipient stage
of putrefaction, it is seized upon. Milk
and oatmeal form the food of those in good
circumstances. The great evil under which
the Highlands now labour, is the want of ca-
pital to put in operation the latent industry of
the natives. Though the present improving
system be advantageous to the proprietors, it
leaves vast numbers of the expelled inhabi-
tants, as has been said, to live in this degraded
manner on the coasts ; and until emigration
carry them off, or they be attracted to some
profitable course of labour, such as fishing,
there will be much individual suffering. Suth-
erlandshire has been the most extensive theatre
of this removal of the population to the sea-
coast yet witnessed, and its interior has be-
come one vast solitude. The instruments of
culture used in the Highlands were, till lately,
rude, and little was known of improved modes
of farming. There is a great want of manure.
Lime abounds, but there is no coal to burn it.
Fuel of any kind in some districts can hardly be
got. Cottage gardens are nearly unknown, and
the people, except in a few praise-worthy in-
stances, are not encouraged in constructing
or tending them. The sole manufacture of
the maritime Highlands is, or rather was, kelp ;
and if this be taken totally from the people by
the introduction of a foreign article, the utmost
misery will be endured for many years, till in-
dustry can be made to pursue some new chan-
nel. The number of boats engaged in the cod
and haddock and in the herring fishery, in the
proper season, along the Inverness, Cromarty,
and Tain Firths, and belonging to the dis-
trict, is 319. The number of men and boys
employed in the boats is 1200, and fully as
many men and women on shore. Various
attempts have been made to introduce manu •
factures, but they have failed ; and in like
manner the erection of new villages has also
been attended with little success. There is a
considerable quantity of plaiding and coarse
stockings made by poor people in Inverness-
shire and Wester Ross, and sold at the markets
for home consumpt. Cattle, sheep, wool, whis-
ky, pork, and fish, are the chief exports from
the Highlands. In concluding this desultory
sketch, it ought to be mentioned, that for some
years the Highlands and Islands have been
benefited beyond calculation by the use of steam
vessels, which have exposed the coasts to the
visits of strangers, and given natives oppor-
tunities of carrying to market many things for-
merly nearly valueless ; and, as has been al-
ready stated in the article Argyleshire, have
raised the value of property in many places,
fully twenty per cent.
Notices of the Improved State of the Highlands
since the commencement of the Public Works,
executed under the direction of the Parliament-
ary Commissioners ; in a Letter addressed to
Lord Colchester by Mr. Joseph Mitchell,
Superintendent under the Commission — From
the Fourteenth Highland Roads and Bridges
Report, 1828. (Parliamentary Paper. J
In March 1799, colonel Anstruther, superin-
tendent of the military roads in the Highlands
of Scotland, in a memorial to the Lords of the
treasury relative to these roads, states, that
"they passed through the wildest and most
mountainous parts of the Highlands of Scot-
4a
54G
HIGHLANDS.
land, where the people were poor and the
country thinly inhabited, and totally unable to
keep in repair either the roads or bridges by
statute labour, or any other means." The dis-
trict to which this observation referred, was si-
tuated more immediately in contact with the
low countries, the military roads extending no
further northwards than the Moray Firth and
the fortresses along the Caledonian glen ; and
the wide and extensive country beyond, com-
prising the counties of Ross, Cromarty, Su-
therland, and Caithness, with the greater part
of Inverness-shire, and the whole of the Wes-
tern Islands, intersected as it was by arms of
the sea, dangerous ferries, deep and rapid rivers,
and innumerable lesser streams, subject to fre-
quent and sudden floods, without the accomo-
dation of bridges, piers, or other facilities, was,
as may be conceived, in a much worse condi-
tion. The internal communication was at-
tended with the utmost difficulty and danger,
and any considerable intercourse with the low
countries was rendered almost impracticable ;
which was, no doubt, the principal cause that
the Highlands, thus insulated, remained in
their unimproved condition, while the southern
parts of the kingdom were in all directions
making rapid advances in every species of in-
dustry and civilization ; and to such a degree
did the want of safe and easy intercourse be-
tween the northern counties affect even the or-
dinary administration of justice, .that, until of
late years, the. counties of Sutherland and
Caithness were not required to return jurors
to the northern circuits at Inverness. Such
may, in a few words, be described as the state
of the Highlands previous to the year 1803,
when the parliamentary commissioners com-
menced their operations. Since that period
the progress of these works bas gradually laid
open the most inaccessible parts of the coun-
try ; and the commissioners, by combining the
efforts of all the counties in the prosecution of
one great general measure of improvement,
have succeeded in effecting a change in the
state of the Highlands, perhaps unparalleled
in the same space of time in the history of any
country. Before the commencement of the
present century, no public coach, or other re-
gular vehicle of conveyance, existed in the
Highlands. In the year 1800, it was attempted
to establish coaches between Inverness and
Perth, and between Inverness and Aberdeen ;
but, from the state of the roads at that period,
23.
and the little intercourse which then took place,
it was found necessary to discontinue them
after a short trial ; and it was not until
1806 and 1811, that coaches were regular-
ly established in these directions, being the
first that ran on roads in the Highlands.
Since the completion of the parliamentary
works, several others have successively com-
menced ; and during the summer of last year
no less than seven different stage coaches pass-
ed daily to and from Inverness, making forty-
four coaches arriving at, and the same number
departing from that town in the course of every
week. Three of these, including the mail, run
between Inverness and Aberdeen ; one be-
tween Inverness and Perth, along the High-
land road ; two between Inverness and Ding-
wall, Invergordon, Cromarty and Tain ; and
the mail coach along the northern coast road
from Inverness to Wick and Thurso, extend-
ing from the capkal of the empire, in one di-
rect line, above 800 miles. This latter coach
was not established until 1819, and much doubt
was entertained at that time of its success.
Indeed, some assistance was at first required
from the counties to support it This was,
however, soon afterwards withdrawn, and the
encouragement it has since met with has en-
abled the contractors to increase its original
speed to eight miles an hour, and latterly to
employ four horses for the first fifty miles
north of Inverness, notwithstanding the oppo-
sition of the two other coaches above mention-
ed. There has also been established, within
the last two years, a stage coach from Inve-
rary to Oban in Argyleshire, over a considera-
ble part of the improved military line in that
district of the Highlands : and when it is stat-
ed that, in connexion with these coaches,
more than 13,000 passengers went last year
through the Crinan Canal, that three steam-
boats plied regularly for the conveyance of pas-
sengers along the Caledonian Canal, and five
others from Glasgow, along the west coast,
and to the different islands of Skye, Mull, Islay,
&c. as well as one occasionally from Leith,
along the east coast to Inverness, some idea
may be formed of the increased intercourse
that has taken place between the remotest parts
of the Highlands and the southern counties
within the last few years.
It deserves notice also, that, along the roads
constructed by the commissioners (extending in
length upwards of 900 miles,) excepting in one
HIGHLANDS.
S47
instance, * suitable inns, affording accommo-
dation superior to what could be expected,
considering their recent introduction, have been
erected or fitted up at regidar stages ; while for-
merly, even had other facilities existed, the
total want of accommodation for travellers
would of itself have presented a serious ob-
stacle to all internal intercourse.
Post-chaises and other modes of travelling,
have, during the same period, increased pro-
portionally ; and instead of five post-chaises,
which was the number kept in the town of In-
verness about the year 1803, there are now up-
wards of a dozen, besides two establishments for
the hire of gigs and riding horses, all of which
find sufficient employment. Post-chaises and
horses have also been kept up, for the last two
or three years, at all the inns on the great High-
land road, and also at Dingwall and Tain, and
at Inverary. The number of private carriages
in Inverness and its vicinity has likewise in-
creased remarkably during the last twenty-five
years, and no less than one hundred and sixty
coaches and gigs may now be seen attending
the Inverness yearly races ; whereas, at the
commencement of that period, the whole ex-
tent of the Highlands could scarcely produce
a dozen ; and at no very distant date previous-
ly, a four-wheeled carriage was an object of
wonder and veneration to the inhabitants. In
1715, the first coach or chariot seen in Inver-
ness is said to have been brought by the Earl
of Seaforth. In 1760 the first post- chaise
was brought to Inverness, and was for a con-
siderable time the only four-wheeled car-
riage in the district. There are at present
ibur manufactories of coaches in Inverness.
I may state also, that on all the principal roads
which have been constructed in the Highlands,
regular carriers, for the conveyance of goods,
now pass at all seasons of the year from In-
verness to Tain, Skye, Loch- Carron, Loch-
Alsh, Elgin, Nairn, Campbelltown, Aviemore,
&c. ; and others from Glasgow to Ballachu-
lish, &c. in the western district. Perhaps in
no instance has the beneficial influence of the
parliamentary works been more perceptible in
ite result, than in the speedy and certain con-
veyance of intelligence to the remotest quarters
of the Highlands. Through their whole extent
this department is now conducted with as much
* Tim Logman road.
regularity and despatch us in any part of the
kingdom ; and when I state that the following
extract from a letter, which I have received
from a gentleman in the Island of Skye, is
equally applicable to the other districts in
which roads have been constructed, it will be
unnecessary for me to add any thing further on
this part of the subject. " The communica-
tion of our letters and newspapers by the mail,
is very different now to what it was about
twenty years ago. Previous to the completion
of the roads, we had first only one, . and after-
wards two mails a-week ; and these were only
carried on runners' backs. There was only
one runner from Inverness to Janetown ; and
there being no piers or landing places, or in-
deed regular ferry-boats, the detention at the
ferries must have been occasionally very consi-
derable. We are now very differently situated.
We have a regular communication three times
a-week with Dingwall, with a change of horses
at different stations to the Ferry of Kyle-
haken ; and, as an instance of the facility of
communication, I receive a London Sunday
newspaper regularly here (Portree) every
Thursday morning ; a circumstance which must
appear to a stranger almost incredible, and
which of course is solely attributable to the
roads made under the authority of the Parlia-
mentary commissioners." Not less remark-
able, though more indirect, has been the im-
pulse given to agricultural improvement
throughout the Highlands. The construction
of the parliamentary roads having in the first
instance opened the means of access through
the districts generally, and also the intercourse
with the low countries, a desire was naturally
excited among the proprietors and tenantry
more or less remotely situated, to connect
themselves immediately with the general lines
of communication, and thus avail themselves
of the facilities which they afforded for im-
provements is Agriculture. Hence, numerous
lines of district road have been constructed
during the progress and since the completion
of the parliamentary works, in every part of
the Highlands, by means of statute labour;
and the rapid and important increase in the
extent of cultivation, which has uniformly been
the consequence, proves in a striking degree
the favourable effects resulting from the works
of the commissioners. Their roads being ex.
ecuted without reference to any individual in-
terest, they were made in lines most calculated
548
HIGHLANDS.
for the general good, and necessarily pointed
out the proper direction of those subsidi-
ary branches which were required to be made
by the statute labour and out of private
funds. The public aid afforded for the par-
liamentary works kept the local funds, in a
great measure, entire for such separate pur-
poses; and the knowledge gained from ob-
serving the works of the commissioners sav-
ed much expense, and furnished the assistance
of skilful engineers and experienced workmen.
Upon this subject I have received the follow-
ing communication from good authority : " In
illustration of the spirit which these public
works have excited, and the incalculable bene-
fits which they have produced already, and
may produce more extensively hereafter, it
may be sufficient to refer to the recent act for
regulating the statute labour of the.county of
Sutherland, by which the services in kind were
converted into a money payment. The coun-
ty having been divided by this act into four
districts, in the first of them, the Dornoch dis-
trict, nineteen miles of new road have been
made with requisite bridges, by the joint means
of composition for statute labour and contri-
bution from Lord Stafford the principal pro-
prietor ; in the second, or Sutherland district,
seventy-five miles of road have been made by
the like means, besides a line of twenty-five
miles from Tongue down Strathuahaver to
Altnaharrow, and a direct line of thirty seven
miles from Helmsdale on the east coast, to
Bighouse on the north coast, both of which
have been effected by statute labour funds ex-
clusively ; in the third, or Reay district, there
is now constructing a road of thirty-four miles
from Altnaharrow to Durness ; and in the
fourth, or Assynt district, several roads and
bridges also have been constructed, and one
line of forty-four miles in length from the east
coast up Strath- Ordil to Loch-Inver on the
west coast, intersecting this portion of the
island at right angles to the Helmsdale road ;
this important line has been made partly by
the statute labour funds, partly at Lord Staf-
ford's expense, and four miles of it entirely by
the late Lord Ashburton. One immediate
result of making these roads has been the sub-
stitution of carts instead of ponies for the com-
mercial intercourse of the country ; and the
saving in point of time, and labour and expense
in this respect is beyond all calculation, giving
* new impulse to the improvement of the coun-
try. The people are extending their smaller
roads in all directions for their carts to bring
sea-weed from the shore, or their fuel from the
peat mosses ; and activity, energy and industry
have taken place of their former indolence,
sloth, and idleness ; raising everywhere more
comfortable and better-built cottages, with the
addition of gardens, an accommodation and
source of supply to such heretofore unknown,
but now getting into very general use." With
regard to the state of husbandry, the following
extract from the letter before mentioned will
suffice, as applying with equal, and in many
cases with greater, force to all parts of the
Highlands : — '•' With the exception of a few
carts, which were in the possession of a very
few individual principal tenants, paying a rent
of from L.200 to L.700 a-year, there were
none to be found in the island of Skye. There
are now numerous carts in every quarter ; and
their introduction has in like manner been the
means of introducing other useful implements,
such as the plough and iron-teethed harrows ;
neither of which were much used, excepting
by the principal tenants, not many years ago.
These improvements have, without doubt,
been caused solely by the roads made under
the authority of the parliamentary commis-
sioners, as without roads there could of course
be no carts ; and although it may be true that,
by having roads made on different farms, cer-
tain advantages might have been derived, still,
as these roads would be merely local, no great
general good could be derived from them, as
they could not possibly open up the communi-
cation from one place to another." At the
commencement of the present century, from
the difficulty of conveyance for exportation,
cultivation was almost entirely confined to nar-
row stripes of land situated along the sea-coast,
and in the immediate neighbourhood of the
few sea-port towns ; and even here, was not
brought to that state of perfection which, since
the introduction of implements of a less defec-
tive description than those formerly used, it
has of late years attained. As an instance of
the improvement that has taken place in Ross-
shire, now the most beautiful and highly cul-
tivated county in the Highlands, I may men-
tion, that there is at present in the service of
Major Gilchrist of Ospisdale, in Sutherland,
as farm manager, the individual who first in-
troduced the ploughing of land into regular
ridges, and the division of fields into any thing
HIGHLANDS.
.549
like systematic arrangement in that county ;
the fields being formerly detached pieces of
land, ploughed irregularly, as the ground with
the least labour suited. The carts generally
used were of the poorest description, with a
kind of tumbler or solid wheel, and wicker
conical baskets ; little or no lime was used for
sigricultural purposes. " I succeeded to a ferm
in this country about thirty years ago (says
Major Gilchrist), when the working strength
consisted of sixteen oxen and twenty-four
small horses called garrons ; this farm is now
laboured by three pair of horses." The total
amount of wheat then raised in the county was
not equal to what is now produced on many
single farms. It was not until 1813 that the
first barley mill, north of the Cromarty Firth,
was erected, and in 1821 the first flour mill
(at Drummond on the estate of Fowlis) by
the same individual. To such an extent, how-
ever, has cultivation of late years been carried,
that the growth of wheat alone is now estimat-
ed at 20,000 quarters annually, and the exporta-
tion of grain to London, Leith, Liverpool, &c.
.luring the last year, amounted to upwards of
1 0,000 quarters ; besides the supply of the ex-
tensive and populous pastoral districts of the
county, and the towns of Dingwall, Tain, In-
verness, &c. to which places I am credibly in-
formed upwards of 10,000 bolls of flour are
now annually sent for the consumption of the
inhabitants. Among other exports may like-
■wise be mentioned, the produce of various ex-
tensive whisky distilleries situated in different
parts of the county, and a considerable quanti-
ty of salted pork, bacon, &c. from the ports of'
Cromarty and Invergordon. I understand, that
in the year 1819 the sum estimated to have
lieen expended in the purchase of the latter
amounted to about L. 30,000. Indeed, a mark-
ed improvement in domestic animals of every
description has taken place in the northern
counties since the improved communication
With the south. I need hardly allude to the
introduction of Cheviot sheep, to the pains
taken in improving the breed of cattle by the
importation of the most improved sorts from
the West Highlands, and of cows from Ayr-
shire. Considerable attention has been re-
cently paid to the breed of horses, both for the
purposes of agriculture and draught, and in
some instances those of the finest description
have been successfully reared. Nor has the
breed of pigs been neglected, several valuable
species, both pure and crosses, having been in-
troduced. In short, a general spirit of approxi-
mating these counties, in as far as the soil and
climate will permit, to the more advanced
counties in the south, seems everywhere to
prevail. The improvements in many parts of
Inverness-shire have been scarcely upon a less
extensive scale than in the county of Ross, al-
though the field for agricultural operations in
that county is naturally more limited. In the
county of Sutherland, the objects of the com-
missioners have been promoted in an extraor-
dinaqr degree, by the liberal exertions of the
Marquis of Stafford, and other heritors, who
have effected a complete revolution in the state
of that extensive district of the Highlands.
-Agriculture is there conducted on the most
approved plans, and farm buildings, and other
establishments of husbandry, have been erect-
ed on a scale equally extensive and complete
as in the most improved parts of the kingdom.
This is the more remarkable, as not twenty
years ago nothing of the kind existed ; and un-
til that period, the great body of the inhabi-
tants were confined to the upper parts of the
county, and had undergone little change from
their primitive and uncultivated habits, living
in huts of the most wretched description, and
strangers to every species of industry or com-
fort. Latterly, however, crofts or small por-
tions of ground were gradually lotted out for
them near the coast, in such positions as were
best calculated to employ their labour with ad-
vantage to themselves and to the country ; and
every encouragement was given for the im-
provement of the lands, and the erection of
comfortable and suitable cottages ; while the
upper parts were converted into extensive farms
for the rearing of cattle and sheep, to which
they are naturally adapted, and in which way
only they can prove valuable to the proprietors
or to the community. That the first impulse
to these important changes has been given by
the operations of the commissioners, is no more
than is uniformly acknowledged in the state-
ments of those individuals, under whose direc-
tions the improvements have been conducted,
In confirmation of these remarks, I have
received a letter from a gentleman residing
in Sutherland, from which the following is
an extract: — " When I came to the High-
lands in 1809, the whole of Sutherland and
Caithness was nearly destitute of roads. This
county imported com and meal in return for
5,30
HIGHLANDS.
the small value of Highland kyloes (cattle,)
which formed its almost sole export. The
people lay scattered in inaccessible straths and
spots among the mountains, where they lived
in family with their pigs and kyloes, in turf
cabins of the most miserable description ; spoke
only Gaelic ; and spent the whole of their
time in indolence and sloth. Thus they had
gone on from father to son, with little change
except what the introduction of illicit distilla-
tion had wrought, (and this evil was then chief-
ly confined to the vicinity of Caithness ;) and
making little or no export from the coShtry
beyond the few lean kyloes, which paid the
rent, and produced wherewithal to pay for the
oatmeal imported. But about this time the
country was begun to be opened up by the
parliamentary roads, — by one road, from Novar
to Tongue, through the barren mountains of
which that district is composed, and by an-
other, passing along the east shore towards
Wick. Certainly, a more striking example
of what roads do effect, — and effect too in
an extremely poor country, — has rarely been
seen ; such a quick exhibition of what na-
tural wealth lay latent in such a country, is
unexampled. Your roads were opened, when
the agricultural distresses were just beginning.
In the face of that distress we now annually
export from the barren district about 80,000
fleeces of wool, and 20,000 Cheviot sheep ;
and from the sea-coast several cargoes of grain,
the produce of three considerable distilleries of
Highland whisky, a good many droves of well-
fed cattle, and from 30,000 to 40,000 barrels
of herrings, besides cod, ling, &c. But the
most happy result, in my opinion, is its effect
upon the people. The fathers of the present
generation of young men, were a great many
of them brought, by compulsion to the coast ;
others, after they came to substitute carts and
wheels for their former rude contrivances, have
drawn down to the road-side of themselves.
The effects of society upon human nature ex-
hibit themselves: — the pigs and cattle are
treated to a separate table ; the dunghill is
turned to the outside of the house ; the tartan
tatters have given place to the produce of
Huddersfield and Manchester, Glasgow, and
Paisley ; the Gaelic to the English ; and few
young persons are to be found who cannot both
read and write." Another well-informed cor-
respondent writes to me thus : — " About the
year 1809, the fifty miles of country between
Sutherland and Inverness was first began to b«
laid open by roads to the south. There was^
till then, no regularly formed road in that part
of the country, — no harbour, no attempt to
drain the land, — turnips and wheat were little
known ; and when Lord Stafford and his ten-
ants originally began their improvements, a
well-constructed plough had never been seen
in Sutherland, and the inhabitants were entire-
ly unacquainted with using ploughs in a work-
manlike manner. At that time nothing could
have led me to believe, that in the short space
of ten years, I should, in such a countiy, see
roads made in every direction, the mail-coach
daily driving through it, new harbours construct-
ed, in one of which upwards of twenty vessels
have been repeatedly seen at one time taking
in cargoes for exportation ; coal, and salt, and
lime, and brick-works established ; farm-stead-
ings everywhere built ; fields laid off, and sub-
stantially enclosed; capital horses employed,
with south-country implements of husbandry
made in Sutherland ; tilling the ground, secun-
dum artem, for turnips, wheat, and artificial
grasses ; an export of fish, wool, and mutton,
to the extent of L.70,000 a-year ; and a baker,
a carpenter, a blacksmith, mason, shoemaker,
&c. to be had as readily, and nearly as cheap
too, as in other countries." The same corres-
pondent informs me that — " "When the line of
road from the Fleet Mound to the Ord of
Caithness was commenced, the object of every
one was to get it carried as far from their door
and arable lands as possible. It was carried,
therefore, generally speaking, at the outside of
the cultivated district, at the base of the moun-
tains. Bitterly do the present possessors la-
ment the blindness of their predecessors. The
effect, however, has been extremely advanta-
geous to the countiy ; it has forced the occu-
piers to cultivate carefully all the uncultivated
corners of their arable land below the road ;
and this line has served as a new base to stall
from for the cultivation of all that lies above
it, and that is fit for the plough. The old
track which communicated with Caithness, lay
along the beach, close by the sea. But being
since carried into the interior, the consequences
have been, a village built at Bonar Bridge, a
great tract of country planted by Messrs-
Houston of Criech and Dempster of Skibo ;
the whole of the arable part of the Creech
estate, subdivided with the best enclosures,
trenched to a great extent, and all under the
HIGHLANDS.
,1
best system of modern husbandry ; a distillery
erected, and a new farm torn from the moun-
tain's side at Skibo. The effects produced by
the Parliamentary Roads in Caithness, I can,
from experience, state to have been very great ;
having had to ride into it, the first time I knew
it, in 1813, and having visited it. in 1826, in a
carriage. About Wick, the additional cultivation
is very great, and all along the road-side con-
siderable symptoms of improvement are every-
where seen ; the same is still more conspicuous,
I understand, from Wick to Thurso. They are
making a shorter road to the latter place, called
the Kerseymire Road, which will bisect the
county; but though Caithness is capable of
vast agricultural improvement, yet that must
necessarily be slow, as many of the lands are
fettered most strictly by their entails." I have
not been able to acquire more specific infor-
mation regarding the county of Caithness ;
but it is only necessary to contrast the state of
the districts immediately bordering on the
Parliamentary Roads passing through it, with
that of the more unconnected portions, to
perceive the important effects that have at-
tended them ; and as this county is naturally
more susceptible of agricultural improvement
than any of the others, the most beneficial con-
sequences may reasonably be expected from
still further opening the interior by additional
roads. As an instance of the present condi-
tion of some parts of this county along the
Parliamentary Roads, I need only mention,
that one farmer, in the year 1826, exported
grain, the produce of his own farm, to the value
of not less than L.2000. Indeed I may state
generally, as equally applicable to the whole
of the Highlands, that in my various journeys
to the different parts of the country, I notice
improvements extending in every direction ;
and during my short recollection, a considera-
ble extent of moor-land in various places has
been enclosed and converted into cultivated
fields. It may also seFve to show how syste-
matic farming has become, that societies for
the promotion of agriculture and the rearing of
stock have been established in all the North-
ern counties. Nor have plantations been be-
hind in this general state of improvement.
Many thousands of acres have within the last
twenty five years been planted ; upon the Dun-
robin estate alone, there have been planted with-
in the last twenty-five years above nine millions
of trees ; and although the climate is somewhat
unfavourable for the growth of large trees, yet
the attempts made promise to be attended with
profit and advantage in many situations inca-
pable of any other species of culture. The
rapid improvements in agriculture have been
accompanied with a corresponding change in
the habitations of all ranks in the Highlands.
Proprietors have expended large sums in the
erection and ornamenting of suitable mansion-
houses ; and, in the houses of gentlemen tacks-
men, every species of comfort and convenience
is to be found ; while the cotters are gradually
exchanging their huts of mud or turf for neat
and substantial cottages. To aid this benefi-
cial change in the circumstances of the latter,
great encouragement has, in various instances,
been given by the heritors in granting timber,
windows, lime, &c. ; and I am enabled to state,
that in the island of Skye alone, no less a sum
than L. 100,000 has been expended by the late
Lord Macdonald, in the erection of buildings
and other improvements. I may here also
mention a fact, from which the general state of
the Highlands before the Parliamentary works
were undertaken, may be inferred ; namely, that
at the period of his Lordship's accession, in
1797, to his estates in that island, comprising
nearly five parishes, there were throughout
their whole extent no churches, only one manse,
two or three small slated houses, and only one
slated inn. To this island, and to the other
Islands and Highlands of Scotland, by a recent
act of parliament, passed in the reign of his
present Majesty, the benefit of additional
places of worship has been extended ; and sub-
stantial churches, with suitable manses, have
been erected in more than forty .places where
none existed four years ago, from Islay and
Iona to the Orkneys and Shetland. It will
naturally be inferred that a great increase in
the value of property must have arisen from
the foregoing circumstances ; and a few facts
will serve to place the change that has here
been effected in its strongest Ught. In In-
verness and its vicinity, the increase has been
in several instances nearly tenfold; for in-
stance, the lands of Merkinch, situated be-
tween the town and the canal, rented twenty-
five years ago between L. 70 and L. 80, while
the rental for the last year amounted to L. 600.
In 1790, the property of Redcastle, on the op-
posite shore of the Beauly Firth, was sold for
L. 25,000, and in 1824 was again sold to Sir
William Fettes, Bart, for L. 135,000. Nor
HIGHLANDS.
has the change been less striking in the dis-
tricts of the Highlands more removed from the
influence of the northern capital — it is suffi-
cient to refer to what has been done by capi-
talists from the Lothians and Northumberland
on the Stafford estates in Sutherland. The
beneficial influence of the operations in that
quarter has also been felt through the most in-
accessible parts of Lord Reay's country, where
enclosures have been made, farm-houses erect-
ed, and the rental largely increased. The
estates of Chisholm, situated in the romantic
district of Strathglass, have risen since 1785
from L.700 to be now upwards of L.5000
per annum. When Dd. Macdonell of Glen-
garry died in 1788, his yearly income did not
exceed L.800 ; the same lands now yield from
L.6000 to L.7000 a year. I have little
doubt that a corresponding increase has taken
place in most parts of the Highlands, but the
present is a very unfavourable period for bring-
ing forward instances, particularly in the pas-
toral districts, owing to the depreciation of
wool, sheep, cattle, &c, which has in a parti-
cular degree affected the value of property in
this part of the kingdom. This may well be
inferred from the fact, that wool, which a few
years ago was sold at from thirty-five shillings
to two guineas per stone, produced at the last
Inverness wool market no more than twelve or
thirteen shillings. There cannot be a doubt
that the increased facilities of communication,
as leading to increased comforts, have naturally
brought to market a greater variety, and to a
larger amount of produce and manufacture,
than was heretofore customary in the High-
lands. Formerly Inverness supplied with
foreign commodities almost all the Highlands,
including Tain, Dingwall, Sutherland, and part
of Caithness. Since, however, the means of
communication with the south have been more
extended, and suitable harbours erected at
other places, the supply to the several districts
has been direct ; and packets have been esta-
blished from London and Leith to Wick,
Thurso, Helmsdale, Brora, The Little Ferry,
Tain, Dingwall, Invergordon, &c. Yet not-
withstanding this division, the trade of Inver-
ness has increased very considerably since the
commencement of the present century. About
twenty-five years ago, there were only four
vessels, averaging ninety-six tons, that sailed
once in every six weeks between London and
Inverness; there are nowfive vessels of 130 tons,
which sail every ten days. Since the opening
of the Caledonian Canal, also, three regular
traders from Liverpool have been established,
besides a steam-boat for goods from Glasgow.
In the Leith trade, only three vessels existed
twenty-five years ago ; there are now six regu-
larly employed, and sailing twice every week.
Thirty years ago, there was only one vessel of
forty tons trading between Inverness and
Aberdeen ; there are now four of sixty or
seventy tons each. These vessels are princi-
pally employed in the importation of foreign
commodities and manufactures; but the in-
crease of general trade will best be seen by
comparing the present amount of shore-dues
with that in the year 1802. At that time
they produced only L. 1 40 annually ; while in
1816, with some advance in the rates for the
improvement of the harbour, they amounted to
L.680. In 1817, the lower part of the canal
was opened ; and from the accommodation af-
forded in its basin, part of the trade was car-
ried on there, which reduced the rates, in. 1 820,
to L.470. Since that period, however, the
annual rent has again risen to L.560. The
increasing wants of the inhabitants of Inver-
ness sufficiently prove their increasing wealth ;
and since their closer connexion with the
southern counties, a rapid change has taken
place in the general state of society- The
manufacture of hempen and woollen cloths has
been commenced ; churches and chapels of
various sects built ; Missionary and Bible so-
cieties established ; schools endowed ; an in-
firmary erected; reading rooms established;
subscription libraries set on foot ; two news-
papers published weekly ; and a horticultural,
a literary, and various other professional and
philanthropical institutions founded. Two
additional banks have likewise been instituted,
three iron foundries, and three rope and sail
manufactories have successively commenced;
an additional bridge has been constructed ; the
harbour has been enlarged and improved ; the
town lighted with gas ; and all within the last
twenty-five or thirty years. But in no instance
is the benefit arising from facility of communi-
cation more apparent than in the establishment
(in 1817) of the great annual sheep and wool
market at this central point of the Highlands,
to which all the sheep farmers resort from the
remotest parts of the country, to meet the
wool-dealers and manufacturers of the south.
Here the whole fleeces and sheep of the north
II D D A M.
5£S
of Scotland are generally sold, or contracted
for in the way of consignment ; and in 1818,
upwards of 100,000 stones of wool and 150,000
sbeep were sold at very advanced prices. This
circumstance affords a striking proof of the ad-
vantage of lines of communication in facilitat-
ing the exportation and sale of the staple com-
modities of the country. It wall not be unim-
portant to remark here, that banking offices
have likewise been of late years established at
Thurso, Wick, Golspie ; two at Tain, and one
at Fort William and at Inverary. The fore-
going observations, it will be understood, apply
more particularly to those districts which have
been opened and accommodated by the various
works of the commissioners; and although
their influence has, in some degree, been felt
through the whole extent of the Highlands,
yet I have already explained how desirable and
necessary various improvements, yet unaccom-
plished, are for the still further melioration of
this extensive country.
Jos. Mitchell.
Office of Highland Roads and Bridges,
Inverness, 6th March 1828.
To the Lord Colchester.
By way of sequel to this extended article on
the Highlands, and for the purpose of preserv-
ing what some may consider a curious document
illustrative of the ancient character of the dis-
trict, we present an alphabetical list of all the
known clans of Scotland, with a description of
the particular badges of distinction anciently
worn by each.
Names.
Buchanan
Cameron
Campbell
Chisholm
Colquhoun
Cumming
Drummond
Farquharson
Ferguson
Forbes
Fraser
Gordon
Graham
Grant
Gunn
Lamont
M'Allister
M'Donald
Badges
Birch
Oak
Myrtle
Alder
Hazel
Common Sallow
Holly
Purple Foxglove
Poplar
Broom
Yew
Ivy
Laurel
Cranberry Heath
Rosewort
Crab Apple Tree
Five-leaved heath
Bell Heath
M'Donell
M'Dougall
M'Farlane
M' Gregor
M'Intosh
M'Kay
M'Kenzie
M'Kinnon
M'Lachlan
M'Lean
M'Leod
M'Nab
M'Neil
M'Pherson
M ; Quarrie
M-Rae
Munro
Menzies
Murray
Ogilvie
Oliphant
Robertson
Rose
Ross
Sinclair
Stewart
Sutherland
Mountain Heath
Cypress
Cloud Berry Bush
Pine
Boxwood
Bull Rush
Deer Grass
St. John's Wort
Mountain Ash
Blackberry Heath
Red Wortle Berries
Rose Black Berries
Sea Ware
Variegated Boxwood
Black Thorn
Fir Club Moss
Eagle's Feathers
Ash
Juniper
Hawthorn
The Great Maple
Fern, or Breckans
Briar Rose
Bear Berries
Clover
Thistle
Cat's- tail Grass
The chief of each respective clan was, and
is, entitled to wear tw* eagle's feathers in his
bonnet, in addition to the distinguishing badge
of his clan.
HILTON, a parish in Berwickshire united
to that of Whitsome. — See Whitsome.
HILLTOWN, a fishing village, parish of
Fearn, Ross-shire, on the Moray Firth.
HOBKIRK, anciently and properly Hope-
KmK, a parish in Roxburghshire, lying betwixt
Cavers on the west, and Abbotrule and South-
dean on the east, and extending about twelve
miles in length by three in breadth. The
district for the greater part rises from the left
bank of the Rule water, and contains much
well-cultivated land. — Population in 1821,652.
HODDAM, a parish in Annandale, Dum-
fries-shire, comprehending the three united
parishes of Hoddam, Luce and Ecclefechan,
which were joined in the year 1609. Hod-
dam (originally Hod-holm, the head of the
holm) extends five miles in length by a breadth
at the middle of three and a half, and is bounded
by the river Annan on the south, which partly
separates it from Cummertrees and Annan, by
St. Mungo on the west, Tundergarth on the
4b
554
HOPE.
north, and Middlebie on the east. The surface
is beautifully diversified with meadow and culti
vated lands of a varying elevation, finely en-
closed and planted, forming one of the most
delightful spots in Annandale. Its lower
parts are watered by the Milk and Mein wa-
ters, both tributary to the Annan. On the
northern boundary of the parish is the hill of
Brunswark. The first place of note which is
reached in travelling up the district from An-
nan, is the castle of Hoddam, the seat of the
old and respectable family of Sharpe. This
is a strong square keep of the antique castel-
lated fashion, and one of the few such edifices
on the border still kept in repair. It is said
to have been built between the years 1437 and
1484, by John, Lord Herries, of Herries, with
the stones of a more ancient castle of the
same name which stood on the opposite side
of the river. This report concerning the
builder is partly confirmed by the arms of
Herries, cut on the top of the staircase ; but
there is no date on the building. During the
border wars it was a strength of considerable
importance. It came into the family of Sharpe
in 1690, and is at present inhabited by Lieu-
tenant- General Matthew Sharpe. — Population
in 1821, 1640.
HOLBORN HEAD, a promontory on
the northern coast of Caithness, west from
Thurso Bay.
HOLM, a parish in the south-eastern
part of the mainland of Orkney, lying on the
shores of that beautiful and well-frequented
firth called Holm Sound, leading from the
open sea on the east to ScalpaFlow and Strom-
ness. It extends upwards of five miles in
length by about two in breadth at the widest
part ; the parishes of St. Andrews and Deer-
ness bound it on the north. — Population in
1821, 773.
HOLOMIN, an islet of the Hebrides near
the island of Mull.
HOLY ISLE, a small island covering the
harbour of Lamlash on the south side of Ar-
ran. It is hilly, and bears a resemblance to
Arthur's Seat at Edinburgh.
HOLY WOOD, a parish in Nithsdale,
Dumfries-shire, extending westward from the
right bank of the Nith for ten miles, and hav-
ing the Cluden on its south side- The ge-
neral breadth of the parish is from two to
three miles, and it is bounded by Kirkmahoe
on the east and north, and Dunscore on the
24.
north and west. The surface is generally level,
with some rising grounds on the northern extre-
mity, and the soil is arable and fertile. The dis-
trict derives its name from a sacred grove which
had existed here during the time of the druids.*
The temple of these pagans was succeeded by
the cell of a hermit, and his cell was changed
into a house for monks of the order of Pre-
monstratenses, soon after the year 1 120. An
hospital was also founded here by Archibald,
Earl of Douglas, in the reign of Robert II.
A part of the abbey which escaped the vio-
lence of the Reformers, served as the par-
ochial church, till 1779, when the mins of the
whole were used as materials for building a
new church. — Population in 1821, 1004.
HOPE, a river in the parish of Tongue,
northern part of Sutherlandshire, which has its
origin in the hilly territory of the parish of
Edderachylis, chiefly from Loch-an-dallag.
After a course of about twelve miles, passing
in its course Dun Dornadilla, it forms Loch
Hope, which is a fine sheet of water of about
seven miles in length by about one in breadth,
but destitute of claims to picturesque beauty
from the general want of wood in the adjacent
high grounds. Its waters are emitted at the
north end, and, after a course of a mile, fall
into the east side of Loch Eribole at a place
called Innerbope.
HORSEHOE, a safe harbour in the island
of Kerrera, near Oban, in Argyleshire.
HORSE ISLE, a small island in the firth
of Clyde, off Ardrossan, in Ayrshire.
HORSE ISLAND, a very small islet of
Orkney, lying east from Deerness on the main-
land, and north from Copinshay.
HO UNA, a place in the parish of Canis-
bay, Caithness, on the northern point of the
island of Great Britain, three miles west from
Duncansby Head, and about half that distance
west from John O' Groat's House. From
Houna, ferry boats sail to Orkney, and in the
mean hamlet which has arisen on the spot, there
is an " Inn" for the accommodation of travellers.
HOUNSLOW,or HUNTSLOW.aham-
let in the parish of Westruther, Berwickshire.
* A gentleman, proceeding upon this idea, styled a
new box which he built in Holywood parish, by the ela-
gant name of Druidville. In the course of a few short
years, by dint, partly, of the usual process of softening
proper names, and partly in consequence of a wish to de-
grade such an attempt at fineness, the.people had this de-
signation fused down into the word Drcodle, which the
plase yet bears.
HOURN (LOG H).
555
HOURN, (LOCH) an arm of the sea on
the west coast of Inverness-shire, projected
from the sound of Sleat, opposite the south-
east end of Skye. Macculloch's account of
this unfrequented salt water loch is among the
hest we have, and we give it almost in his own
words. This inlet forms three distinct turns,
nearly at right angles to each other, penetrat-
ing into the country to a distance of ahout
eleven miles, and, at its extremity, meeting an
excellent new road that joins the western mili-
tary road at Glengarry. The characters of
these three parts are different, and it is the
most interior which contains the peculiar
scenery that renders Loch Hourn so remarka-
ble. For nearly half the distance from the
entrance, it can only be said that the views are
grand, as, with such mountain boundaries, they
could not fail to be. About the middle, it ap-
pears to ramify into two branches ; but the
one soon terminates in something like a deep
and spacious bay, wild, bold, and deserving ex-
amination. There is much character in the
mountains that enclose this bay, in which
Barrisdale is situated ; and above, in particular,
they display a degree of rude and rocky deso-
lation, almost unequalled in Scotland, and
not less grand than rude. The other branch
is continued for some miles, terminating at
length in a deep glen ; and, from one end to
the other, it displays a rapid succession of
scenes no less grand than picturesque, and not
often equalled in Scotland ; but of a character
so peculiar that it would be difficult to find a
place to which they can be compared. The
hind, on both sides, is not only very lofty, but
very rapid in the acclivities ; while, from the
narrowness of the water, compared to the al-
titude of the boundaries, there is a sobriety in
some places, and, in others, a gloom thrown
over the scenery, which constitutes, perhaps,
the most peculiar and striking feature, if fea-
ture it can be called, of this place. From the
general magnitude of the scenery, the colour-
ing is more atmospheric than local, and is con
sequently always harmonious. In the terrific
and sublime it has few rivals; and while the
landscapes are invariably grand, they are al-
most innumerable. Where this loch te' ini-
tiates, a wild and deep glen conveys the
road up to that level, on which it proceeds
afterwards towards Glengarry, from which
point all beauty disappears for a long
s^aee.
HOUSE ISLAND, an island of Shetland,
belonging to the parish of Bressay, lying be-
tween Cliff Sound and Burray Island, west
from which is the Bay of Scalloway. It extends
about three miles in length by one in breadth.
IIOUSE-OF-MUIR, a hamlet on the
southern sloping base of the Pentland-hills,
in the county of Mid-Lothian. It is about
ten miles from Edinburgh. In the year
1612 the magistrates of Edinburgh gave Lord
Abernethy of Salton the superiority of the
three husband lands of Salton, in exchange for
a right of holding fairs or markets at the
House-of-Muir, since which period a very
large market has been held annually on
the last Monday of March, at which the bur-
gesses of Edinburgh have the privilege of pay-
ing lower customs than others. This market
is only remarkable from the exhibition of sheep
for sale, and especially of grit or stock ewes.
Being the chief market of the kind before
Whitsunday, and being held in an accessible
part of the country to the southern pastoral
shires, it is generally well attended.
HOUSTOUN and KILLALLAN, a
united parish now generally called Houstouk
in Renfrewshire, bounded by Erskine on the
north and east, Kilmalcolm on the west, and
Kilbarchan on the south, extending about six:
miles in length by four in breadth. The ori-
ginal boundaries of the two parishes were
so inconveniently intermixed, that in 1760
both were united, the kirk of Houstoun being
constituted the place of public worship for the
district. Houstomi, named from Hew or Hugo
de Padynan a proprietor who flourished in
the time of Malcolm IV., was once entitled
Kilpeter, being a cell of St. Peter, the tutelary
saint. Killallan, which is in the north-western
part of- the present parish, according to an in-
scription on a church bell, seems to be a cor-
ruption of Kilfillan — the cell of St. Fillan, a
celebrated Scottish saint and churchman, (see
Fillans, St.) whose fame had shone conspi-
cuous in this quarter, and whose miraculous
powers had been communicated, as in the case
of the pool at St. Fillans in Perthshire, to a
spring-well near the church, to which the su-
perstitious mothers in the neighbourhood used
to bring their sickly children for immersion.
On doing so they generally left shreds of their
clothes on the overhanging bushes, as oiferings
to the saint, and strange as it may seem, such
was the force of ancient prejudices, that the
556
HOY.
custom continued till about the beginning of
the eighteenth century, when the minister of
the parish put a stop to the practice by filling
up the well. The river Gryfe bounds the
parish on its south side, and is crossed by a
bridge at the village of Crosslee, and also
at a place about a mile to the west, called the
Bridge of Weir, which is a village built partly
in this, but principally in Kilbarchan parish,
and has risen as a residence of cotton spinners
since the year 1780. Houstoun village or town
lies partly on both sides of the rivulet of Hous-
toun Burn, at the distance of fourteen milee
from Glasgow, seven from Paisley, and seven
from Port- Glasgow. It is formed by two
long streets, one on each side of the stream.
At the west end of the town is a considerable
bleachfield, and at the other end a cotton fac-
tory. The houses are of good mason-work,
generally two storeys in height, and covered
with blue slate. Its inhabitants, who are in-
dustrious weavers of silk and cotton, are now
about 700 in number. We learn from Fowl-
er's Commercial Directory of the towns and
villages of the upper ward of Renfrewshire —
an exceedingly useful little work, published
annually at Paisley — that the town is partly
built of the stones which once composed the
castle of Houstoun, an ancient mansion, the
residence of the Knights of Houstoun, in
the neighbourhood to the east, which was de-
molished in 1780. The person who commit-
ted this deed was a parvenu proprietor, whose
father received the property in a way worth
mentioning. In the latter end of the seventeenth
century there lived in Ayr a destitute orphan
boy, named Macrae, whose means of subsistence
were derived from running messages for a half-
penny to any one who would employ him. At
length he was taken off the streets by one
Hugh M' Quire, a fiddler in Ayr, who gave
him his education and fitted him out for sea.
Going to the East Indies, he rose to be gover-
nor of the presidency of Madras, and realizing
a fortune, he returned to this country, where
he died in 1 744, but not till he had erected a
statue of King William III. in Glasgow, and
bequeathed his whole fortune, including the es-
tate of Houstoun, which he had purchased, to
his former benefactor Hugh M' Quire. On
the son of this person becoming owner of the
estate, he changed his name to Macrae, and,
in the course of improvements, pulled down
the castle of the original possessors, applying
the stones to the erection of the village, as
above stated. The market place of the vil-
lage is ornamented by a pedestal of considerable
antiquity ; it consists of an octagonal pillar,
nine feet in length, having a dial fixed on the
top, crowned with a globe ; the stone is reached
by three steps around the base. The lands in
the parish, originally poor, are now greatly
improved and ornamented. — Population in
1821, 2317.
HOUSTON HOLM, a small pastoral
islet of Orkney, off the mainland, near Or-
phir.
HO WAN SOUND, a strait of the sea at
Orkney, between Rousay and Egilshay.
HOWGATE, a village in the county of
Edinburgh, parish of Pennycuick, on the old
road from Edinburgh to Peebles, at which
is a meeting-house of the United Associate
Synod.
HOWNAM, or HOUNAM, a parish in
Roxburghshire, extending seven miles in length
by four and a half in breadth, bordering on
the south with England, and bounded by Mor-
battle on the north and east, and Eckford,
Jedburgh, and Oxnam on the west. That
part adjacent to the borders is mountainous
and pastoral, Hownam-fell being the march
betwixt the two kingdoms. The lower parts
are arable, and the district from south to north
is intersected by the Kale water, which has a
variety of tributary rivulets. The village of
Hownam is on the right bank of the Kale
near the northern verge of the parish. In the
district are seen the traces of the Roman way
into Scotland. It appears that Hownam de-
rives its name from one Howen or Owen, a
Saxon settler in early times, whose ham
or residence it was. During the twelfth cen-
tury there were a number of distinguished per-
sonages in Roxburghshire of this appellation.
—Population in 1821, 327.
HOY, an island of the Orkneys, lying on
the south-west of Mainland, to which it is
second in point of magnitude. It is bounded
on the east by Scarpa Flow and some small
islands therein, on the south by the Pentland
Firth, on the west by the Ocean, and on the
north by the strait of Hoymouth, which di-
vides it from the parish of Stromness on the
mainland. It measures about twelve miles in
length from north to south, by a general breadth
of rive miles. At the south end a portion is
almost detached by a large indentation of the
H U M E.
557
sea called Long Hope, which forms what
is designated Aith- Wards. In the neck of
land joining this portion with the chief part of
the island stands Melseter House. Hoy
contains the highest land in Orkney, and is
generally mountainous and pastoral. A great
part of it is occupied by three huge hills,
relatively situated in the form of a triangle,
that to the north-east being the largest and
conspicuous to an immense distance. Ex-
cept along the north shores, which are bor-
dered by a rich meadow and loamy soil,
the island has a soil composed of peat and
clay, of which the former, black, wet, and
spongy, commonly predominates. There are a
variety of alpine plants on the hills ; and among
them some delightful valleys, intersected with
rivulets, whose banks are decked with flowers,
and sheltered by shrubs, such as the birch,
the hazel and the currant, which are sometimes
honoured with the name of trees. Birch-trees
of a large size are known to have once been
common. The climate of Hoy is healthful,
and the natives are said to be long-lived. The
only object of curiosity in Hoy is the celebrat-
ed Dwarf or Dwarfie Stone. This stone
measures thirty-two feet in length, sixteen and
a half feet in breadth, and seven feet five in-
ches in height. Human ingenuity and perse-
verance at some early period, has excavated
the mass and rendered it a species of dwelling.
It is entered by a small doorway, and is divided
into three distinct apartments ; in one end
there is a small room, and in the other there is
an apartment with a bed five feet eight inches
long, and two broad ; and in the middle part
there is an area, where there has been a fire-
place, and a hole at the top to let out the
smoke. This very strange memorial of an age
long since past, is the object of a variety of
traditionary legends. The island is divided
into two parochial districts, the south half being
the parish of Walls, and the north being that
of Hoy, with which is included the island of
Graemsay (once an independent parish,) lying
in the strait which separates Hoy from the
mainland. The kirk of Hoy is on the coast
opposite Graemsay. — Population of the parish
of Hoy and Graemsay in 1821, 508.
HULMAY, an islet off the west coast of
Lewis.
HULMITRAY, one of the smaller islands
of the Hebrides, lying near Harris.
HUMBIE, a parish in the south-western
part of the county of Haddington, having Sal-
ton and Ormiston on the north, part of Bolton
and Gifford on the east, and Fala and Soutra
on the west. The southern part lies high on
the brown summits of the Lammermoor range
of hills adjoining Berwickshire, and from these
eminences the land first descends in a tolerably
steep dedivity to the lower grounds, and then
spreads away towards the rich vale of the
Tyne. The parish is of a square form, mea-
suring about five miles in length, by rather
more than three in breadth. It originally con-
tained much poor, at least unproductive land,
but we ascertain, by recent examination, that a
very considerable part is under an excellent
system of cropping. The arable lands have
been extended a good way up the face of
the Lammermoors, and in the low grounds
the fields are beautifully enclosed and culti-
vated. There is now also a large share of
plantations, especially in that part contiguous
to Salton parish, where there is a thick wood
of oak, birch, and other trees, covering some
hundreds of acres. The northern part of the
parish, previous to the Reformation, form-
ed the parish of Keith, which, from an early
period, had been a barony belonging to the fa-
mily of Keith, hereditary knight marischals ot
Scotland. — Population in 1821, 837.
HUME, a parish in the district of Merse,
Berwickshire, now joined to Stitchel, in the
county of Roxburgh. — See Stitchel.
HUME, a village in the above abrogated
parish, standing on a rising ground, three miles
south from Greenlaw, three north from Stit-
chel, and about six north-west from Kelso.
This village was once much more extensive
than it is now, stretching to a considerable dis-
tance all around the ancient castle of the Earl
of Home, and inhabited by the numerous re-
tainers of that nobleman. Hume Castle is
one of the chief objects of interest in the west-
ern part of the Merse. The castle properly
does not exist ; but the late Earl of March-
mont raised the walls from the ruins into
which they had fallen, and, by battlementing
them, produced something like a castle, or
what at least may pass for such at a distance.
It is, from its situation, a conspicuous and in-
deed a picturesque object. Being placed on
a considerable eminence, it commands a view
of the whole district of the Merse and a great
part of Roxburghshire. The space within
the exterior wall, at least half an acre, is now
558
H IT N T L Y.
fitted up as a kitchen-garden. Traces of the
vaults are yet distinguishable, and the well
still exists. The date of the original erection
of this structure is of unknown antiquity ; but
it is known to have been for many centuries a
strong-hold of the powerful border family of
Hume or Home, who sprung from a son of
the third Earl of Dunbar and March, a per-
sonage descended from the petty Princes or
Earls of Northumberland. The territory of
Hume, which gave its name to this influential
family, occurs as early as the year 1240, in a
donation to the monastery of Kelso, and con-
tinued through a long succession of descend-
ants, among whom we find many gallant sol-
diers, ambassadors, privy councillors, statesmen
and others, possessing the title of Hume or
Home. The barony was raised to an earldom
in 1604, by James VI., and the peerage yet
exists ; the family seat being now at Hirsel.
Hume Castle was a place of considerable
strength, and more particularly su from its
elevated situation. In 1547 it was besieged
by the English under the Duke of Somerset,
when, after having stood out for some time
under the command of Lady Hume, (her lord
having been slain a few days before in a gen-
eral engagement,) it was delivered up on fair
terms. In 1549, it was retaken by strata-
gem by the Scots, who on this occasion put
the English garrison to the sword. A hun-
dred years later it was again the object of
contest. During the time of the common-
wealth, in 1650, and immediately after the
taking of Edinburgh Castle, Cromwell
sent Colonel Fenwick, with his own and
Colonel Syler's regiments, to capture it. On
arriving in the vicinity, Colonel Fenwick drew
up his men, and sent the governor the follow-
ing summons : " His Excellency the Lord
General Cromwell, hath commanded me to re-
duce this castle you now possess, under his
obedience, which if you now deliver into my
hands for his service, you shall have terms for
yourself and those with you : if you refuse, I
doubt not but in a short time, by God's assist-
ance, to obtain what I now demand. I expect
your answer by seven of the clock to-morrow
morning ; and rest your servant, George Fen-
wick." The governor, whose name was Cock-
burn, being, it seems, a man of some fancy,
returned this quibbling answer : " Right Hon-
ourable, — I have received a trumpeter of
yours, as he tells me, without a pass, to sur-
render Home castle to the Lord General
Cromwell : please you, I never saw your Ge-
neral. As for Home castle, it stands upon a
rock. Given at Home castle this day before
seven o'clock. So resteth, without prejudice
to my native country, your most humble ser-
vant, T. Cockburn." Soon after he sent the
English colonel a postscript, in the following
well-remembered doggrel lines :
«• I, Willie Wastle,
Stand firm in my castle,
And a' the dogs in your town
Will no pull Willie Wastle down."
But this doughty and humorous governor soon
had reason to come down in his pretensions.
Fenwick planted a battery against the castle,
and, having made a breach in the walls, the
English soldiers rushed forward to the esca-
lade. A parley was now beat by Cockburn,
and the lives of the garrison being spared, the
whole marched out to the amount of seventy-
eight individuals. The castle was thereupon
entered by Cromwell's troops, and committed
to the charge of Captain Collinson, in keeping
for the parliament. Hume castle and the
neighbouring territory latterly became the pro-
perty of the Earls of Marchmont, a branch of
the family which for a long time greatly sur-
passed the main stock in fortune, but at length
became extinct in the male line towards the
end of the last century.
HUNIE, an islet of Shetland, about a mile
from the island of Unst.
HUN1SH, the northern promontory of the
isle of Skye.
HUNTLY, a parish in the northern part
of Aberdeenshire, extending six miles in length
by four in breadth ; bounded by Cairny on
the north, Glass on the west, and part of
Gartly on the south. The district formerly
composed the two distinct parishes of Dum-
benan and Kinore, the latter being on the
east. A junction was formed in 1 727, and the
new parish was called Huntly, in compliment
to the eldest son of the Duke of Gordon.
The country here is rough and hilly, but
though originally bleak, it is now vastly im-
proved, and exhibits many fine plantations and
arable fields. The finest part of the territory
is on the banks of the rivers Deveron and
Bogie. The former passes from west to east
through the parish, and is joined by the Bogie,
which comes flowing from the south, a short
way below the town of
H U T T O N.
559
Huntly. This pleasing modern town, the
capital of the above parish, occupies a dry and
salubrious situation near the termination of the
peninsula formed by the confluence of the De-
veron and Bogie rivers, at the distance of eigh-
teen miles south-east of Fochabers, twenty-one
south-west of Banff, thirty- six north-west of
Aberdeen, and 145 north of Edinburgh. Hav-
ing arisen since the beginning of last century,
it has had the advantage of being disposed on a
neat plan, and now consists of several well-
built streets, lying parallel to and crossing each
other at right angles, with a spacious market-
place. There is a number of detached houses,
or villas, in the environs, and the whole place
possesses an air of elegance and comfort. The
chief manufacture here is linen thread, both
wbite and coloured, and there is a bleachfield
on the banks of the Bogie. There is also a
brewery, and distillation to a considerable ex-
tent is carried on in the vicinity. The coun-
try in this quarter exports large quantities of
butter, cheese, eggs, and pork to the London
market. The town market is held on Thurs-
day, and there are several annual fairs. Huntly
is a burgh of barony under the Duke of Gor-
don, whose beautiful mansion of Huntly Lodge,
standing in the midst of plantations and plea-
sure-grounds, is in the neighbourhood on the
opposite side of the Deveron. This river is
crossed by an ancient bridge of a single arch,
which luckily withstood the great floods of the
river in August 1 829. On this occasion the
water rose at the spot twenty-two feet above
the ordinary level, and only six feet of the arch
were left unoccupied. Standing upon this
bridge an agreeable view is obtained, whether
looking downward to the spot where the rivers
join, or up the river, which is seen gliding
through spacious and fruitful fields on each
side. Across the Bogie, and leading from the
south-east side of the town, is a good bridge
of three arches. The river Bogie was also
flooded at the above melancholy period, and by
the great increase of the two rivers at once,
Huntly was almost surrounded with water.
Fortunately, except destroying some malt at
the distillery at Pirie's mill on the Bogie, and
slightly damaging some fields, it did not do any
particular injury. The interesting ruin of the
old castle of Huntly, standing near the end of
the peninsula on the Deveron, is the chief ob-
ject of curiosity in the neighbourhood. It was
built at the beginning of the seventeenth cen-
tury, and, though now quite dilapidated, still
affords a striking proof of the grandeur and
hospitality of the ancient family of Gordon. —
Population of the town of Huntly in 1821,
2000— including the parish, 3349.
HUTTON, a parish in the district of the
Merse, Berwickshire, lying to ths west of Ber-
wick bounds, from which it is chiefly divided by
the river Whitadder, bounded by Tweed on the
south, Ladykirk, Whitsome, and Edrom on the
west, and Chirnside and Foulden on the north.
It extends three and a half miles from north
to south, by four miles from east to west at the
middle part. The parish is level, beautifully
enclosed, planted and cultivated, being one of
the very finest parts of the rich plain of
the Merse. There are two villages, Hut-
ton, which is the kirk-town, in the northern
part of the parish, and Paxton in the eastern
part. Paxton is understood to have been the
locality of the song entitled " Robin Adair."
In the neighbourhood is Paxton- House, the
seat of William Forman Home, Esq. ; it
is remarkable for a splendid collection of
paintings, chiefly by Italian masters, which
a late proprietor purchased when abroad some
years ago. Hutton Hall, a fine mansion, is
in the northern part of the parish, on the banks
of the Whitadder. This river and the Tweed
yield excellent salmon and trout-fishing. The
Tweed is crossed by a beautiful suspension-
bridge, called the Union Bridge, extending
from a point near Paxton to a place a little
way below the village of Horncliff, in the
county of Durham. This very convenient
bridge, forming the only connexion of the
two sides of the river between Coldstream
and Benvick, is one of the best yet erect-
ed in the island. It has been of prodigious
service in facilitating the introduction of coal
and lime into Berwickshire from the works
near Etal and Ford ; it is frequently visited
by parties of pleasure from Berwick. It ad-
mits two carriages abreast, besides foot passen-
gers, and is one of the most interesting objects
of an artificial nature to be seen in the south
of Scotland — Population in 1821, 1118.
HUTTON and CORRIE, a united pa-
rish in the district of Annandale, Dumfries-
shire, extending twelve miles in length from
north to south by a general breadth of three
miles. In the northern part the parish draws
to a point. Eskdalemuir lies on the east,
Wamphray and Applegarth on the west, and
560
I C O L M K I L L.
Tundergarth on the south. The parish is se-
parated from the latter by the Milk-water.
The Corrie water, a tributary of the Milk,
next intersects the parish, and farther north
the Dryfe-water pursues a course through the
district from its northern point. There are
a variety of burns tributary to these rivulets.
This extensive parish is chiefly hilly and pas-
toral, the holms on the banks of the streams
being only cultivated. There is a number of
remains of antiquity in the district, as in most
other parts of this border county ; the princi-
pal being the Moat- hill on the farm of Nether
Hutton, and from which holt or hut the name
of the parish is derived. Much of the district
is the property^ of the Hopetoun family, by
whom many beneficial improvements in the
breed of sheep were introduced during last
century. — Population in 1821, 804.
ICOLMKILL, or I-COLMB-KILL, or
IONA, or I, (pronounced Ee,) one of the
islands of the Hebrides, belonging to Argyle-
shire, in the parish of Kilfmichen, lying off the
south-west promontory or ross of Mull, from
which large island it is separated by the sound
or strait of IcoliMkill, about a mile and a half
in breadth. Icolmkill is about three miles in
length from north to south, and, where wid-
est, only a mile in breadth. The highest ele-
vation in it is 400 feet, and the surface is di-
versified with rocky hillocks and patches of
green pasture, or of moory and boggy soil. At
the southern extremity, with the exception of
a low sandy tract, it is a mere labyrinth of
rocks. There is a small village or miserable
collection of huts, inhabited by a population of'
about 450 individuals. There is no doctor or
midwife in the island ; after many ages of be-
nighted ignorance, a church and school-house
have been recently erected by the society for
the diffusion of Christian knowledge. The
Bay of Martyrs is a small creek near the vil-
lage, and is said to be the place where the
bodies brought hither for interment ware
landed. Port-na-currach, the Bay of the Boat,
is on the opposite side of the island, and here,
according to tradition, Columba first landed,
in token of which there is a heap, of about
fifty feet in length, supposed to be the model
and memorial of his boat. The remains of a
celebrated marble quarry are near the southern
extremity, and the shore still affords those
pebbles of green serpentine, which are now ob-
jects of pursuit to visitors, as they were formerly
esteemed for anti-magical and medicinal vir-
tues. Along the shores opposite Mull there
are some pleasant arable plains, producing some
good crops of oats and barley. Peat for fuel
has to be brought from Mull. Icolmkill is the
most noted of all the western islands, and is
indeed distinguished above all other islands be-
longing to Britain for its historical associations
and works of art. To the historian and an-
tiquary it furnishes matter of most inte-
resting inquiry. By the Highlanders the
island is called I, (or ee) signifying the island,
by way of pre-eminence. Colm or Columb is
a mere contraction of Columba, the classic
name of Colon the saint, who first rendered
the place of consequence by his residence.
Kill simply imports cell or chapel. The de-
signation of lona is Celtic, and means " the
island of waves ;" and being the most eupho-
nious, it has been used by monkish and poetic
writers. Descended from a family which was
allied to the kings of Scotland and Ireland, and
a native of the latter country, Columba com-
menced his career in 563, or, according to
Bede, in 565, and in the forty-second year of
his age. He derived his education from The-
lius, who, with several other Welsh bishops,
had been consecrated by the patriarch of Jeru-
salem ; and from this circumstance he followed
the Oriental or original apostolic rule of faith,
both as regarded doctrinal points and public
forms of worship. It appears that Columba de-
parted from Ireland under circumstances of poli-
tical dissension, or from some difference between
his religious opinions and those promulgated
by the minions of the polluted Romish church
It is recorded by the Irish annalists, that he was
accompanied in his self-expatriation by twelve
or thirteen pious priests or saints ; and that
the whole, directing their course towards Scot-
land — till then in the lowest state of barbarian
and pagan superstition — landed first at Oransa,
one of the smaller Hebrides, and then at lona.
ICOLMKILL.
561
Making a settlement on this island, he com-
menced a system of propagating Christianity,
both by his own active endeavours in most
fatiguing and dangerous exercises on the
mainland, and by sending out his assistant
clergy as missionaries. In the execution of
these arduous and transcendent duties, the
pious Columba met with an astonishing suc-
cess. In a few years the greater part of the
Pictish kingdom was converted to Christiani-
ty, and hundreds of churches, monasteries, and
cells, were founded and supported. The mis-
sionary clergy of Iona did not confine their la-
bours to Scotland ; they entered the northern
parts of England, or the Northumbrian king-
dom, and there spread the Christian religion
among the Anglo-Saxons, having previously
studied the language of that people.* The in-
fluence of Iona in England, says Macculloch,
to whose notes we are indebted, did not cease
with its first success ; many of its religious
establishments having, long after, been pro-
vided by teachers or monks from this remote
spot, which was thus destined to extend its in-
fluence far beyond the bounds of its own nar-
row and stormy region. It seems that the
zeal of the monks of Iona required a still wider
range of action than that offered by the main-
land of Britain ; during the life of Columba
they undertook voyages to the surrounding
islands and the Norwegian seas, for the pur-
pose of propagating the gospel in countries
which it had not yet reached. St. Columba
is said to have made a voyage himself to the
north sea, in his currach, and to have remained
there twelve days. Few circumstances con-
nected with the early history of the church in
Scotland have produced so hot a disputation as
that regarding the exact order of Christians
to which Columba and his clergy belonged.
In examining this obscure matter of contro-
versy, it appears to us as a fair conclusion,
that the clergy of Iona, while partaking of
many of the minor errors of the church of
Rome, were still by no means allied to papis-
try, and approached nearest in their doctrines
and formula to those distinguished as Culdees.
The prejudices of Bede, or perhaps of his self-
constituted editors, have inclined them to la-
ment over the departure of Columba from the
pale of Roman Catholicism, his neglect of the
* The Lothians were at this time a part of the North-
umbrian kingdom.— See Edinburghshire.
tonsure, and his irregularity respecting the
proper time of keeping Easter ; yet this vene-
rable author, and others who have followed
him, bear ample testimony to the correctness
of the morals, the purity of the doctrine, the
zeal, and the simple mindedness of the mis-
sionary clergy of this Hebridian isle. As to
Columba himself, who was sainted by the de-
votional excess of the primitive period in which
he lived, every writer is found in the lists of
his eulogists ; and in mentioning his religious
fervour, they seldom fail to relate that his
Christianity was of a practical as well as of a
speculative kind ; for, not contented with in-
culcating the truths of the gospel, he went
about instructing his barbarous disciples in the
sciences of gardening, agriculture, and other
arts fully as useful. It is further stated,
that this beneficentandleamed priest was skilled
in medicine, and his knowledge of sacred and
profane history is admitted by all. The rules
of the order of Columba did not prohibit ma-
trimony to the priests, who are known, more-
over, to have engaged in worldly employments
for their subsistence. The death of Columba
took place in the year 597, at the ripened age
of seventy-seven ; and he left behind him a
name which will remain for ever unobliterated
in the pages of ecclesiastical history.* While
in life, he founded some of those edifices on
the island of Iona which were enriched by fu-
ture princes, and whose ruins are now hardly
observable. According to the suspicious
history of Bede, the clergy who succeeded
Columba differed from the church of Rome
till the year 716, when they were engrafted
upon it. From this period throughout those
dark ages of our history in which the He-
brides were affected by the invasions of the
Norwegians, Iona was frequently pillaged by
these northern warriors, who destroyed the
library belonging to the ancient establishment,
which, as it is alleged, contained many valuable
classical works, now entirely lost. After com-
ing under the sway of the Pope, the mona-
stery became, in subsequent years, the dwell-
ing of the Cluniacenses, a class of monks who
followed the rule of St. Bennet, and who, in
* Sir William Betham, Ulster king of arms, and author
of a respectable work on Irish antiquities, possesses a.
psalter written by Columba, in the Erse character. The
psalter is in Latin, is written on vellum, in the Irish
uncial character, and must be considered the oldest Irish
manuscript in existence.
4c
562
I C O L M K I L L.
the reign of William the Lion, lost all their
benefices on the main land, which they had hi-
therto held by curates, and which benefices
were bestowed on the monks of Holyrood.
At the Reformation they lost Iona also, and
their abbey was annexed to the bishopric
of Argyle by James VI. in the year 1617.
The Argyle family has been the ultimate
recipient of their insular property. The
first structure of note reared in Iona seems
to have been what was termed St. Oran's
chapel. It has been referred to the date of
the sixth century, though this is very likely to
be incorrect, and it is more probable that it
was built after the Romish church foisted
itself upon that of the more unpresuming order
of Columba. It is a rude and small building
of about sixty feet in length by twenty-two in
breadth ; now unroofed, but otherwise very en-
tire. The sculpture of the door-way is in
good preservation, and the cheveron moulding
is repeated many times on the soffit of the
arch, in the usual manner. Rut the style,
which is of Norman execution, is mean, and
there are few marks of ornament on the
building. There are some tombs within it
of different dates ; and there are many carved
stones in the pavement; one of them being
ornamented with bells in an uncommon style.
One of the tombs lies under a canopy of three
pointed arches ; it is for this place rather
handsome, and evidently far more modem
than the building itself. This is called St.
Oran's tomb. North from St. Oran's chapel
is the ruin of a nunnery, or rather the chapel
belonging to it, which is usually reckoned to
be the next oldest building in the island, though,
as Macculloch says, " we are sure that there
were no monastic establishments for females
during the time of Columba's discipline. The
proper monastic establishment of Iona belongs
to the age of Romish influence ; and thus the
date of this building is brought down to a
period, later, at least, than 1200. Were it
not that style is here no test of dates, this
chapel might be referred to a prior period, the
architecture being purely Norman, without a
vestige of the pointed manner, or of any orna-
ment indicating that age. It is in good pre-
servation, and the length is about sixty feet,
by twenty in breadth. The roof has been
vaulted, and part of it remains. The arches
are round with plain fluted soffits. The
other buildings that appertained to the nun-
24.
nery can now scarcely be traced ; but there
is a court, and something is shown which
is said to have been a church, and was pro-
bably the Lady chapel. The nuns were not
displaced at the reformation, but continued
a long time after that event to live together.
They followed the rule of St- Augustine, and
were of the Chanonenses. The tombstone of
the princess Anna, dated in 1511, is still ex
tant, and exhibits the figure of the lady in a
barbarous style, with the usual words " Sancta
Maria, ora pro me," under her feet, and the
black-letter inscription round the edge, " Hie
jacet Domina Anna Donaldi Ferleti filia,
quondam prioressa de Iona, quee obiit anno M.
D. ximo, cujus animam altissimo commenda-
mus" — whose soul we commend to the highest
[place.] The figure of the princess is in the
attitude of praying to Sancta Maria, who holds
an infant in her arms; having a mitre on
her head, and the sun and moon above it.
" Pennant," continues Macculloch, " mistook
a sculpture above the head of the princess her-
self, for a plate and a comb : It is the looking-
glass and comb ; an emblem of the sex, which
appears to have been originally borrowed from
ancient Greek or Roman art." The last and
chief edifice is the cathedral of the bishops of
Iona or the Abbey church, it having, as is
said, answered both purposes. This interest-
ing structure has been reared at two distinct
periods, that part of it east of the tower being
evidently of the era of the chapel of the nun-
nery, and the other much earlier. " At pre-
sent its form is that of a cross; the length
being about 160 feet, the breadth twenty-four,
and the length of the transept seventy. That
of the choir is about sixty feet. The tower is
about seventy feet high, divided into three
storeys. It is lighted on one side, above, by a
plain slab, perforated by quatre-foils, and on
the other by a catherine-wheel, or marigold
window, with spiral mullions. The tower
stands on four cylindrical pillars of a clumsy
Norman design, about ten feet high and three
in diameter. Similar proportions pervade the
other pillars in the church ; their capitals being
short, and, in some parts, sculptured with ill-
designed and grotesque figures, still very sharp
and well-preserved ; among which that of an
angel weighing souls (as it is called by Pen-
nant,) while the devil depresses one scale with
his claw, is always pointed out with great
glee. This sculpture, however, represents an
ICOLMKILL.
563
angel weighing the good deeds of a man against
his evil ones. It is not an uncommon feature
in similar buildings, and occurs, among other
places, at Montvilliers ; where also the devil,
who is at the opposite scale, tries to depress
it with his fork, as is done elsewhere with
his claw. The same allegory is found in de-
tail in the legends ; and it may also be seen
in some of tl I works of the Dutch and Flem-
ish painters. The arches are pointed, with a
curvature intermediate between those of the
first and second styles, or the sharp and the
ornamented, the two most beautiful periods of
Gothic architecture ; their soffits being fluted
with plain and rude moulding. The corded
moulding separates the shaft from the capital
of the pillars, and is often prolonged through
the walls at the same level. The larger win-
dows vary in form, but are everywhere inele-
gant. There is a second, which is here the
clerestory tier; the windows sometimes ter-
minating in a circidar arch, at others in trefoil
bends ; the whole being surmounted by a corbel
table. This church or cathedral was dedicated
to St Mary. There is a mixture of materials
in all these buildings. The granite, which is
red, and resembles the Egyptian, may have been
brought from Mull, but the gneiss, hornblende
slate, and clay slate, which are intermixed with
it, are the produce of Iona itself. A fissile
mica slate' has been used for the roofs. Pen-
nant found the last remains of the marble altar-
piece ; but it is now vanished. It was describ-
ed by Sacheverell as six feet by four in dimen-
sions ; and tradition says that it was brought
from Skye. Unluckily for its preservation, a
fragment of it was esteemed a charm against
fire, shipwreck, murder, and ill fortune ; and the
whole was, therefore, soon carried off. The
font remained entire a few years since. Round
the cathedral are various fragments of walls
and enclosures, which are nearly unintelligible.
Two of them are said to have led to the sea ;
others are thought to have been chapels ; and
some are unquestionably parts of the mo-
nastery. It is easy enough to conjecture what
may have been the cloister and the hall ; but
there is neither ornament nor interest in any
of these ruins. Four arches of the former re-
main, and three walls of what was probably
the refectory. The remains of the bishop's
house are just as little worthy of notice. Bu-
chanan says, that there were several chapels,
founded by kings of Scotland and insular chiefs,
all of which is very probable. The cathedral
itself was dismantled by the effects of time,
only a few years ago. The remains of an an-
cient causeway are sufficiently perfect in some
places ; but in others it has been dilapidated,
like every thing else, to build cottages and
make enclosures, the stolen materials of which
betray themselves everywhere." It has been
recorded, that there were, at one time, three
hundred and sixty stone crosses in different
parts of the island of Iona ; but those relics,
four only excepted, are now, like the above
chapels, no longer in existence. We are told
by tradition, that the Synod of Argyle ordered
sixty of them to be thrown into the sea. How
the remainder were disposed of is unknown ;
in the present day there are only traces of four.
Two are very perfect, and one of them is
beautifully carved ; the third has been broken
off at about ten feet ; and of the last the foot
only remains, fixed in a mound of earth. Sun-
dry fragments are, nevertheless, to be found,
which have been converted into grave-stones ;
and which, from the sculptures and inscriptions
on them, have certainly been native. Pennant
says, that the cross at Campbellton has been
transferred from this place. One of those
remaining is called after St. Martin, and the
other after St. John ; and, like the rest, they
were probably of native origin. Adam and
Eve, with the forbidden tree, are represented
on one side of the former. It is surprising to
see the accuracy and freedom of the workman-
ship and design, in such a material as mica-
slate ; a substance as ill-adapted to sculpture
as it is possible to imagine. While yet in an
undecorated condition, the cathedral of Iona
exhibited a great variety of monuments erected
to commemorate different abbots, bishops, and
other ecclesiastics of distinction, who seem to
have bestowed considerable pains and expense
during their lives, in decorating their last rest-
ing places. The spirit of destruction which
reached this isle at the time of the Reforma-
tion, and the degree of culpable carelessness
in protecting the ruins of the religious build-
ings observable since that period, have operat-
ed in wasting and canying off nearly every relic
of the tombs of those dignitaries. Among the
most conspicuous of those remaining, is that
of John M'Kinnon abbot of Iona, who died
in the year 1500. " It is," says a cotempo-
rary writer, " a truly rich and elegant piece
of sculpture, and does credit to the state of the
564
ICOLMKILL.
arts at that period. It is said that the letters
composing the inscription were originally run
full of melted silver, which being kept always
bright by frequent and careful cleaning, pro-
duced a most brilliant appearance, particularly
when the rays of the sun fell upon it. The
precious metal, however, was too great a temp-
tation to escape the rude hands of the popu-
lace. The monument in its present dilapi-
dated state may be still seen near the site of
the high altar." The greatest collection of
tombs is adjacent to the chapel of St. Oran,
in an enclosure of no great extent, called Re-
lig Oran, or, " the burying place of Oran."
This place has evidently been the chief bury-
ing ground or Polyandrium of Iona. Of the
names and numbers of those who were here
interred there prevail many contradictory tra-
ditions, at least such as are at variance with
accredited histories. Buchanan and Monro
mention that here are deposited the remains
of forty-eight kings of Scotland, beginning
with Fergus II. and ending with Macbeth,
the eighty-fourth Scottish monarch, in the
eleventh century ; while it has been substan-
tiated that ten in this list of kings never existed,
and that even if they had, it would make Iona
the place of sepulture of princes long before
it was consecrated by the landing of Columba.
Besides these sovereigns, it is said that there
lie here four Irish, one French, and eight Nor-
wegian kings. The only thing which appears
certain as to Iona being a royal burial place, is
that, for some centuries after the island began
to be renowned for the piety and learning of
its religious inhabitants, it was chosen as a
preferable place of sepulture by a considerable
number of the petty chiefs or lords of the
isles, Norwegian sea kings, some Irish chief-
tains, and of Duncan, one of the kings of Scot-
land. With Dunstaffnage, in all probability,
it divided the glory of receiving the remains of
some of the predecessors of this unfortunate
monarch. Now that there has been such an
extent of destruction among the tombs, and so
many carried away, it is impossible to discover
the tombs of any of the kings, so often spoken
of; the inscriptions and sculpture are nearly
gone ; and no one possesses any record of those
which have disappeared. Monro, dean of the
isles, who visited them in 1549, has bequeath-
ed a fanciful account of the tombs of Iona,
A'hich, without examination, has been received
by most topographers as correct, but which
modern discovery has exposed as in many in-
stances exceedingly fallacious. In 1830, Mr.
Rae Wilson, author of various esteemed works
descriptive of his own travels, busied himself
in clearing away the rubbish from the ruins of
the religious edifices, for the purpose of bring-
ing to light every thing like a relic of their
former magnificence and the piety of their in-
mates. In this search, besides the advantage
obtained by clearing out the interesting remains
of antiquity, and leaving them plain before the
eye of the visitor, a great many statues and
monuments were discovered. Perhaps in this
or some future search those black stones of
Iona by which the people of the Hebrides at
one time swore, may be also discovered, as they
are said to be concealed in the island. Dr.
Samuel Johnson, in the course of his tour to
the Hebrides in the autumn of 1773, accom-
panied by Boswell, visited Iona, whose words
on landing, though already quoted a thousand
times, we may be allowed to quote once more.
" At last," says he, " we came to Icolmkill,
but found no convenience for landing ; our boat
could not be forced very near the diy ground,
and our Highlanders carried us over the water.
We were now treading that illustrious island
which was once the luminary of the Caledo-
nian regions, whence savage clans and roving
barbarians derived the benefit of knowledge
and the blessings of religion. To abstract the
mind from all local emotion would be impossi-
ble, if it were endeavoured, and would be
foolish, if it were possible. Whatever with-
draws us from the power of our senses ; what-
ever makes the past, the distant, or the future,
predominate over the present, advances us in
the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me
and my friend be such frigid philosophy, as
may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over
any ground which has been dignified by wis-
dom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to
be envied, whose patriotism would not gain
force upon the plains of Marathon, or whose
piety would not grow warmer among the ruins
of Iona!" On his departure from this inte-
resting spot he says, " We now left those il-
lustrious ruins, by which Mr. Boswell was
much affected, nor would I willingly be
thought to have looked upon them without
some emotion. Perhaps in the revolutions of
the world, Iona may be sometime again the
instructress of the western regions." There
js, we think, little chance of this being ever
INCH.
565
the ease ; which is almost as unlikely as the
fulfilment of a celebrated Gaelic prophecy,
which has thus been translated by Dr. Smith
of Campbellton :
" Seven years before that awful day,
When time shall be no more,
A watery deluge will o'ersweep
Hibernia's mossy shore;
The green-clad Isla, too, shall sink,
While, with the great and good,
Columba's happy isle will rear
Her towers above the flood."
IFFERT, an islet of the Hebrides, lying
off the west coast of Lewis.
ILANMORE, an islet of the Hebrides,
lying off the north side of Coll.
ILANROANandILANTERACH,two
islets of the Hebrides, lying to the 'south and
east of Oransay.
ILERAY, an island of the Hebrides, of
about three miles in length by one and a half
in breadth, lying to the westward of North
Uist.
IMERSAY, an islet of the Hebrides, lying
off the south-west coast of Islay.
INCH. There are many places in Scot-
land of this name, or having such an adjunct to
their designations, as maybe seen below, some
of which are too minute for notice in this
work. In all cases when it occurs, either by
itself or attached to another word, it signifies
an island, being derived from Ynjjs in the Bri-
tish, or Inis in the Irish or Gaelic tongue. In
the Highland districts the pure term of Inis
still remains in use.
INCH, a parish in the county of Inverness,
merged in that of Kingussie.
INCH, aparishin Wigtonshire, lying on the
east shore of Loch Ryan, bounded by Ballan-
trae in Ayrshire on the north, and New Luce
on the east ; extending nine miles in length by
a breadth nearly as great. About one-half of
the parish consists of flat and low land, form-
ing an extensive plain, which stretches from
Loch Ryan nearly to the Bay of Luce. On
the east and north-east of the plain rises a beau-
tiful range of hills, reaching from one end of
the parish to the other. The face of these is
partly green pasture and partly arable. In the
last century the district underwent extensive
improvement, through the active exertions of
the Earl of Stair, who has an elegant mansion
in the parish. In the lower part of the parish,
south-east from Loch Ryan, there are now
inany beautiful plantations. The present pa-
rish comprehends the suppressed parish of
Saulseat, which lay on the south. In the old
parish of Inch there were two chapels, namely,
St. John's Chapel, which stood at the south
end of Loch Ryan, and at the east end of the
burgh of Stranraer. This chapel was in ruins
in 1684, but a modern castle stood near it, and
was called the Castle of the Chapel. The
eastern half of the burgh of Stranraer, on the
east side of the rivulet that intersects the
town, was popularly called " the Chapel."
A spring within flood-mark was called St.
John's Well. The site of the castle is now
within the parish of Stranraer. The second
chapel was called Chapel- Patrick, being dedi-
cated to St. Patrick, and situated on the west
coast. The district in which it stood was de-
tached from the parish of Inch in 1628, and
was erected into the parish of Port- Patrick.
The church of Inch stands on the margin of a
lake, in which there is a small beautifully wood-
ed island or inch, six hundred yards in circum-
ference. This lake is that of Castle- Kennedy.
It is nearly divided by a neck of land, on which
stands the ruin of the castle, formerly a seat
of the Earls of Stair. The edifice is said to
have been burnt by accident in 1715. There
are some smaller lakes in the parish. A road
from Stranraer pursues the line of the east
coast of Loch Ryan into Ayrshire. On the
same side of this inlet of the sea is the sea-
port village of Cairn, with a good harbour, from
three to eight fathoms deep at low water. —
Population in J 821 , 2386.
INCH-ABER, an islet in Loch-Lomond,
lying in the mouth of the river Endrick.
INCH-AFFREY.— See Innerpeffuay.
INCHARD, (LOCH) an arm of the sea
on the west coast of Sutherlandshire, projected
into the northern part of the parish of Edder-
achylis.
INCH-BRAYOCK, an islet of about 34
acres in extent, lying in the mouth of the South
Esk, Forfarshire, and belonging to the parish
of Craig. It is situated in that part of the out-
let of the river betwixt the Bay of Montrose
and the sea, and it is joined to the mainland on
both sides by bridges, which carry the public
road across from the south to the town of Mon-
trose. The islet has been built upon.
INCH-CAILLIACH, " the island of old
women," situated in Loch-Lomond, near its
566
INCHCOLM.
south end on the east side, about a mile in
length, and covered with trees- This is one
of the most lovely of the islets in this beauti-
ful lake. It is the property of the Duke of
Montrose, is inhabited, and produces good
wheat and oats. Here was anciently a nun-
nery, which was afterwards used as the parish
church of Buchanan. The name of the islet
is allusive to the inmates of that religious build-
ing.
INCH-CLEAR, or CLARE-INCH, a
small woody islet in Loch-Lomond, lying to
the south of the above.
INCH-COLM, a small island in the Firth
of Forth, belonging to the county of Fife, pa-
rish of Dalgetty,and lying about two miles dis-
tant from Aberdour. Li measurement it is un-
der a mile in length, and is of a poor bleak ap-
pearance, but partly arable- Though thus des-
titute of beauty, it is rich in the production of
historical and antiquarian associations, and ex-
hibits, for the satisfaction of the curious, the
ruins of one of the most extensive monastic
establishments in this part of Scotland. The
cause of the foundation of this religious house
is thus related by Fordun : " About the year
1123, Alexander I., having some business of
state which obbged him to cross over at the
Queen's Ferry, was overtaken by a terrible
tempest, blowing from the south-west, which
obliged the sailors to make for this island, [then
called iEmona,*] which they reached with the
greatest difficulty. Here they found a poor
hermit, who lived a religious life, according to
the rules of St. Columba, and performed ser-
vice in a small chapel, supporting himself by the
milk of one cow, and the shell-fish he could pick
up on the shore ; nevertheless, on these small
means he entertained the king and his retinue
for three days, the time which they were con-
fined here by the wind. During the storm,
and whilst at sea and in the greatest danger,
the king had made a vow, that if St. Colum-
ba would bring him safe to that island, he
would there found a monastery to his honour,
which should be an asylum and relief to
«avigators ; he was, moreover, farther moved
* A Gaelic antiquary will detect in this euphonious
Latin name " the isle of the Druids," which shows that,
like many other Catholic institutions, the monastery of
Inchcolm must have been planted on a place of heathen
worship.
to this foundation, by having, from his child-
hood, entertained a particular veneration and
honour for that saint, derived from his pa-
rents, who were long married without issue,
until, imploring the aid of St Columba, their
request was most graciously granted." The
monastery founded by Alexander in virtue of
this vow, was for canons-regular of St. Au-
gustine, and being dedicated to St. Colm or
Columba, was richly endowed by its royal
patron. Allan de Mortimer, knight, Lord of
Aberdour, gave also to God, and the monks
of this abbey, the entire moiety of the lands
of his town of Aberdour, for a burying
place to himself and his posterity, in the
church of that monasteiy. Walter Bowmak-
er, abbot of this place, was one of the conti-
nuators of John Fordun's Scoti-Chronicon, as
is to be seen in the Liber Carthusianorum de
Perth, in the Advocate's Library. He died
in the year 1449. James Stewart of Beith,
a cadet of the Lord Ochiltree, was made com -
mendator of Inch Colm on the surrender of
Henry, Abbot of that monastery, in the year
1543. His second son, Hemy Stewart, was,
by the special favour of King James II. creat-
ed a peer, by the title of Lord St. Colm, in
the year 1611. Fordun records several mira-
cles done by St. Columba, as punishments to
the English, who often pillaged this monastery.
The first was in the year 1335, when the Eng-
lish, ravaging the coast along the Forth, one
vessel larger than the rest, entered this island,
and the crew landing, plundered the monastery
of all its moveables, as well secular as eccle-
siastical ; among divers statues and images
carried off, was a famous one of St. Columba,
which was kept in the church. It seems as
if that saint did not relish the voyage, for he
raised such a storm that it threatened immediate
destruction to the sacrilegious vessel, by driv-
ing it on the rocks of Inchkeith. The sailors,
on their near approach to these rocks, were ter-
ribly alarmed, cried peccavi, asked pardon of
the saint, promised restitution of their plunder,
and a handsome present into the bargain. On
this the vessel got safely into port in that
island, where, as if raised from the dead, they
landed with great rejoicings ; they then disem-
barked the saint and their other plunder, and
transported them, with a handsome oblation of
gold and silver, to certain inhabitants of King-
horn, to whom they likewise sent payment
for their labour, with directions that the whole
INCHCOLM.
5G7
should be safely delivered to the monks from
whom they were taken. No sooner was this
done than a favourable wind sprung up, by
which the vessel reached St. Abb's head be-
fore the rest of the fleet, the men taking care
to form a sincere resolution never more to
meddle with St. Columba. It nevertheless
appears that this example was forgotten by the
next year, for, from the same authority, we
learn, that in the year 1336, some other Eng-
lish vessels plundered the church of Dolor, be ■
longing to the abbot of this house, and carried
away a beautiful carved wainscot with which
he had adorned the choir ; this they had taken
down piece-meal, and shipped, so as it might
be put up in any other place. It was put on
board a particular barge, the sailors of which,
rejoicing at their plunder, sailed away with
pipes and trumpets sounding ; but St. Colum-
ba in an instant turned their mirth into sorrow,
for the vessel suddenly sunk to the bottom,
like a stone or piece of lead, neither plank nor
man being ever more seen. The remaining
sailors of the fleet, terrified at this judgment,
vowed in future they would not trespass on
that saint, or on any person or thing belonging
to him. This event gave rise to a proverb in
England, the substance of which was, that
St. Columba was not to be offended with im-
punity. They likewise gave him the nick-
name of Saint Quhalme. Notwithstanding
the resolution here mentioned, in the year 1384,
the English fleet being again in the Forth,
plundered this monastery, which they attempt-
ed to burn, and actually set fire to a shed near
the church ; but when the destruction of the
whole monastery seemed inevitable, some pious
persons addressing themselves to their guardian
saint, he suddenly changed the wind, which
blew back the flames. The plunderers re-
turned to their ships with their booty, and
afterwards landed at the Queen's Ferry, and
began to pillage the coast of the cattle, when
they were suddenly attacked by Thomas and
Nicholas Erskine and Alexander de Lindsay,
having with them about fifty horsemen from
the east, and William Conyngham, of Kil-
maures, with thirty from the west ; these en-
gaging the robbers, slew and wounded some,
took others prisoners, and drove a number of
them to their vessels ; of these above forty,
and those some of the forwardest among the
incendiaries, for safety, hung to the anchor,
when a sailor, dreading the attack of the Scots,
cut the cable with an axe, whereby all those who
hung about the anchor were drowned. But
what was most wonderful, was, that the per-
son who had planned this sacrilege, and been
the most active in setting fire to the buildings,
was taken prisoner by William de Conyngham,
and whilst on the way with him, was seized
with the most frantic madness, accusing him-
self of the above offences, testifying that he
had been the most active in burning the shed,
and that whilst so employed, he saw St. Co-
lumba extinguishing the fire, when that saint
caused some volatile flames to dart upon him,
which destroyed his beard and eye-brows ; his
fury increasing, he was killed, and buried in a
cross way near the town of Dunipace. In the
Duke of Somerset's expedition, 1547, this mo-
nastery was, after the battle of Pinkie, occu-
pied as a post commanding the Forth. The
circumstance is recorded by Patin, in the fol-
lowing words : " Tuesday, the 13th of Sep-
tember, in the afternoon, my Lord's Grace
rowed up the Fryth, a vi or vii myles west •
ward, as it runneth into the land, and took in
his way an island thear called Sainct Coomes
Ins, which standeth a iiii mile beyond Lieth,
and a good way ner at the north shore than
the south, yet not within a mile of the nerest.
It is but half a myle about, and hath in it a
pretty abbey (but ye monks were gone) fresh
water enough, and also coonyes ; and is so na-
turally strong, as but one way it can be enter-
ed. The plot whearof my Lordes Grace con-
sidering, did quickly cast to have it kept,
whearby all traflik of merchandise, all commo-
dities els comyng by the Fryth into their land,
and utterly ye hole use of the Fryth itself,
with all the havens uppon it shoold quyte be
taken from them. Saturday, 17th of Septem-
ber, Sir John Luttrell, Knight, having bene
by my Lordes Grace, and the counsell, elect
abbot, by God's suffraunce, of the monastery
of Sainct Coomes Ins, afore remembered, in
the afternoon of this day departed towardes
the island to be stalled in his see thear accord-
ingly ; and had with, him coovent of a C hak-
butters and L pioneers, to kepe his house and
land thear, and ii rowe barkes well furnished
with amnicion, and lxx mariners, for them to
kepe his waters, whereby it is thought he shall
soon becum a prelate of great power. The
perfytness of his religion is not ahvaies to tarry
at home, but sumtime to rowe out abrode a
visitacion, and when he goithe, I have heard
568
I N C H I N A N.
say he taketh alweyes bis sumners in barke
with bym, which are very open-mouthed, and
never talk but they are harde a mile of, so that
either for loove of his blessynges, or fear of
his cursinges, he is like to be souveraigne over
most part of his neighbours." The island of
Inchcolm was visited by Grose, or some one
for him, in 1789, and in his Antiquities of
Scotland are presented different views of the
religious houses. " Great part- of the monas-
tery," says he, " is still remaining ; the cloisters,
with rooms over them, enclosing a square area,
are quite entire ; the pit of the prison is a most
dismal hole, though lighted by a small window ;
the refectory is up one pair of stairs ; in it,
near the window, is a kind of separate closet,
up a few steps, commanding a view of the
monks when at table ; this is supposed to have
been the abbot's seat ; adjoining to the refec-
tory is a room, from the size of its chimney,
probably the kitchen. The octagonal chapter-
house, with its stone roof, is also standing ;
over it is a room of the same shape, in all like-
lihood the place where the charters were kept.
Here are the remains of an inscription, in the
black-letter, which began with stultus. The
inside of the whole building seems to have
been plastered. Near the water there is a
range of offices. Near the chapter-house are
the remains of a very large semicircular arch.
In the adjoining grounds lies the old carved
stone, said to be a Danish monument, engraved
by Sir Robert Sibbald, in whose book it is
delineated as having a human head at each
end ; and at present it is so defaced by time or
weather, that nothing like a head can be dis-
tinguished at either end : indeed it requires the
aid of a creative fancy, to make out any of the
sculpture ; something like a man with a spear
is seen (by sharp sighted antiquaries) on the
north side ; and on the south the figure of a
cross ; this stone has been removed from its
original situation." The view from the sea
shows the entry into the cloisters, the chapter-
house, the tower of the church, and other en-
tire parts of the building. In more recent
times the place has been partly modernized, as
a residence for a citizen of Edinburgh, who
farms the island from the Earl of Moray, the
proprietor. The island, which is fertile in
some places and is reputed for the fineness of
its crops of onions, was made a station for a
battery of ten guns, for the protection of this
part of the Firth of Forth, during the last war.
INCH-CONAG, an island in Loch Lo-
mond, lying on the east of Inch-Tannach.
INCH-CROIN, an islet near the south
end of Loch -Lomond.
INCH-CRUIN, a small island at the mid-
dle of Loch-Lomond, east from Inch-Conag,
on which an asylum for insane persons has
been erected.
INCH-FAD, a fertile inhabited island of
a mile in length in Loch- Lomond, near its
east side, and north from Inch-Cailloch.
INCH-GALBRAITH. an islet in Loch-
Lomond near its west side, on which stands
the mined castle of the ancient family of Gal-
braith..
INCH-GARVIE, a small rocky island in
the Firth of Forth, lying nearly in the middle
of the strait at Queensferry. Having been
anciently fortified, and used for a state prison,
its fortifications were repaired and put in a
state of defence during last war, but the works
are now completely abandoned.
INCH-GRANGE, a woody isletin Loch-
Lomond.
INCHINAN, anciently KILLINAN, a
parish in Renfrewshire, lying on the banks of
the Clyde, between the parish of Erskine on
the west, and Renfrew on the east, and south,
extending three miles in length from west to
east, and from two to two and a half in breadth.
The Gryfe and Cart rivers serve as the boun-
dary on the south and east. The country is
here generally level or abounding in beautiful
eminences, and the whole is finely cuitivated,
enclosed, and planted. The district is rich
and verdant on the banks of the Clyde, Gryfe,
and Cart. The church of Inchinan which
stands near the coast, is said to have been built
as far back as 1100. David I. granted it with
all its pertinents to the Knights Templars,
and it continued to belong to them till their
suppression in 1312, when it was transferred
to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.
With other property belonging to that order
it fell into tlie hands of Sir James Sandilands,
the first Lord Torphichen. The church was
probably dedicated to St. Inan, whose name
and an Inch, or long narrow island in the river
Cart, make up the designation of the parish
Near this spot once stood the castle of Inch-
inan, one of the seats of the Dukes of Len-
nox. North Bar is a fine old building on the
Clyde ; south from this place is the ruin of
Old Bar Castle. — Population in 1821, 583.
1 N C H K E I T H.
569
INOHKEITH, an island in the Firth of
Forth, lying four miles from Leith and three
from Kinghorn in Fife, to which it belongs.
It is of a long irregular figure, measuring a mile
in length by the fifth of a mile in breadth, and
comprising altogether about seventy acres. At
its south-eastern or narrowest end lies a small
rocky islet, called the Longcraig. Like all
other islands in this arm of the sea, Inchkeith
has a bleak and comfortless aspect, being to-
tally destitute of trees, and almost wholly pas-
toral. Its surface though irregular and rocky,
is in many places productive of a rich herbage,
well suited to the pasturing of cattle or horses,
but too rank for the use of sheep. Where cul-
tivation has been attempted, excellent crops
have been produced. On the eastern and
western sides the island is precipitous and a-
brupt, while towards the north and southern
ends, particularly the latter, it rises more gra-
dually, to the height of 180 feet, calculating
from high-water mark to the summit of the
island, on which a light-house has been placed.
Inchkeith possesses several abundant springs
of the purest and most excellent water that is
any where to be met with ; and since a boat-
harbour and landing pier have been construct-
ed, the water has been collected in the higher
parts of the island, and conducted by a leaden
pipe, from a large stone cistern to the harbour,
where it is served out by the light-house keep-
er. From this cistern the shipping in Leith
Roads is supplied, and seamen remark that
this water is better and keeps longer free of
impurities, than any other with which they are
supplied. The rocks of this island belong
to the coal formation, and are distinctly stra-
tified upon the great scale. The same strata
of rocks, with a similar direction and dip, are
observable on the Fife shores to the north.
The island affords a good warren for a numer-
ous tribe of the common grey rabbits, and there
are also found a considerable number of the
grey Norwegian rats, in all probability brought
hither . originally by the shipping in Leith
'Roads. Seals are common on the shores.
This island was in early times a possession of
the noble family of Keith, the first of whom,
named Robert, received it from Malcolm II.,
along with the barony of Keith in East Lothian,
(parish of Humbie,) as a reward for killing with
his own hand, Camus a Danish chieftain, at
the battle of Barry, in the year 1010. The
barony of Keith hence communicating its name
to the family, it was from them applied to
their inch or island in the Forth. Under the
head of Edinburgh it has been seen that the
island was constituted a species of lazar-house
for the recovery of those persons in the me-
tropolis afflicted with a certain loathsome dis-
temper, in 1497. Lindsay of Pitscottie re-
lates an incident connected with this desolate
isle, which has often been repeated. He tells
us that that acute prince and lover of the
sciences James IV., made it the scene of the
following curious experiment. In order to
discover, if possible, what was the natural and
original language of the human race, he sent
two infants under the charge of a dumb wo-
man, to reside here ; and that there might be
no occasion for any intercourse with others,
caused them to be well provided with all the
necessaries which their situation might require,
till the children should arrive at maturity.
The result of the experiment is not recorded.
In that tumultuous age, it would be but little
regarded ; and the wars in the end of his reign,
and the confusion consequent on his death
at Flodden, would cause it to be almost en-
tirely forgotten. Lindsay speaks only of a
vague report remaining in his time ; " Some
say that they spoke good Hebrew, but as
to myself, I know not but by the author's
report." The English, after the battle of
Pinkie, fortified this island and the town of
Haddington, besides several other places, in
order to maintain an interest in the country
against the catholic powers then in possession
of the Scottish government. After rearing a
temporary fort upon it, they left four com-
panies of their own nation, and one company
of Italians, for its defence, under the command
of one Cotteral. On the 29th of June, 1549,
this garrison was attacked, and after a very
gallant defence, was dislodged by the French
auxiliary troops, then defending the town and
citadel of Leith under M. Desse, who had
seen the importance of this island as a military
station from its commanding position, as a cover
to Leith, and likewise offering a^good retreat
in case of any sudden disaster. Hesse - had no
sooner made himself master of thisrisland than
the temporary works of the English were thrown
down, and a regular fortification was erected
by order of the regent, under the sanction o*
her daughter Mary, and the dauphin of France,
her husband. This fort consisted of several
strong bastions, laid out for defence of the
4d
570
INCHKEITH.
place, with a strong wall of circumvallation,
varying in height from a few feet to upwards
of twenty feet, according to the situation of
the ground. The principal parts of this work
were executed in square or ashlar masonry;
and from the inaccessible nature of the island,
it must in those days have been considered an
operation of no small magnitude and expense.
While in the possession of the French the
properties of the grass of the island as a nutri-
tious food for horses were observed, and so
great a number of those animals were placed
upon it, that the name of L'lsle des Chevaux
became attached to it. We are told by Bos ■
well, in his Tour to the Hebrides, that when
Lord Hailes was crossing the Firth with Dr.
Johnson, he mentioned this fact, and observed
that the island would be a safer stable than most
others of that time. Upon the part of the
fortification which existed in the time of the
above distinguished tourist, were the letters
" M. R." for Maria Regina, and the date 1556.
When the English fleet sent by Queen Eliza-
beth for the relief of the Scottish Protestants,
entered the Firth, January 1560, the French
forces, who acted for Mary the Regent in Leith,
thought proper to improve and strengthen
this fortress, to which the English fleet imme-
diately laid siege, but without effect. At the
peace, which was afterwards ratified by the
treaty of Edinburgh, it was stipulated, that
six score French soldiers should remain in
Scothttid, the one half in the castle of Dunbar,
the remainder in the fortress of Inchkeith.
Afterwards, the fortifications were cast down
by act of parliament, in order to prevent public
enemies from ever again taking advantage of
them. The next period at which Inchkeith
comes into notice in history, is in the year
1639, during the troubles of the reign of
Charles I., when the king sent a fleet with
troops, for the reduction of the Scottish cove-
nanters. Finding it impossible to effect a
landing on the shores of the Firth, which were
lined every where by a bold and enthusiastic
people, the Marquis of Hamilton, who com-
manded this expedition, had to disembark the
troops upon the island of Inchkeith, for the
sake of their health, the greater part of them
being raw English recruits who had sunk un-
der the hardships of the voyage. It is said,
that on this occasion the Marquis's mother
was among those who assembled to resist his
landing, and bore a brace of pistols on her horse
24.
before her, wherewith she threatened to blow
out her son's brains if he should attempt to put
a hostile foot upon his native shores. After
resting some time, and making no other hostile
manifestations than what consisted in a few
fire-works, which they let off to frighten the
people, this miserable army went again on
ship-board, and sailed back to England, the
war being in the mean time concluded, by a
treaty between Charles and his Scottish sub-
jects at Berwick. From this period till the
present day, Inchkeith has ceased to be an ob-
ject of historical interest ; and it is now chiefly
known as the station of one of the most im-
portant light-houses on the coasts of Scot-
land. The light-house board, aware of the
advantages of the navigation of the Firth
of Forth, and the great degree of pro-
tection it yields to vessels during storms
from the east, proceeded to its improve-
ment as their funds would admit ; and com-
menced with the building of a light-house on this
island, forming an immediate guide to the roads
of Leith. Upon an application being present-
ed from the Trinity House of Leith, on the
18th of May 1803, the foundation stone of this
useful building was laid, and the light-fire ex-
hibited on the evening of the 1 st of September
1804. There then existed no pier or landing
place, nor any road upon the island for the
conveyance of heavy materials to the site of the
building ; and if any such had existed in the
early state of the island, which is indeed more
than probable, they had been entirely destroyed
along with the works of the fortifications, as
not the slightest trace of these roads remain-
ed in 1803, when the light-house opera-
tions were begun. A small portion of the
ruins of the fortifications, however, existed.
The elevation or design of this light-house is
considered to be in very good taste. It is a
house of two storeys, with a platform roof,
and parapet with embrasures, the light-house
tower forming the staircase to the second floor
and ligb*-room. The light-keepers are very
comfortably lodged, the principal having three
apartments and his assistant two. Besides (he
main house, a court of offices is formed in con-
nexion with the eastern wall of the old fort ;
and, besides other conveniences, there is an oil
cellar sunk under ground, in which the oil is
always kept in a fluid state, and at an equal
temperature. There is also a place fitted up
without the gate as a watch-house for pilots,
I N C H K E I T H.
571
where they have a guard-bed and fire-place.
The establishment is in all respects very com-
plete. Besides good salaries, the principal and
his assistants have ten acres of the island en-
closed, and a garden, which they possess or hold
in common, with a sufficient allowance of coal
and oil for family use. In justice to these per-
sons, we have to state, that at all times they
display the utmost politeness in showing the
interior of the light-house to strangers. When
the present light-house was completed, it was
what seamen call a stationary or fixed light,
and contained sixteen reflectors, made upon the
parabolic curve, formed of copper, strongly
coated or plated with silver, instead of the
hollow or cavity of the reflector being lined
with facets of mirror glass as formerly. Inch-
keith light remained as a stationary light till the
year 1815, the period when the light of the isle
of May was altered from an open coal fire to a
stationary light, with oil and reflectors; on
which it became necessary to alter the charac-
ter of Inchkeith light from a stationary to a
revolving light ; and with this alteration, that
seven reflectors, instead of the former number,
are now found perfectly sufficient. The ma-
chinery for making the light revolve, consists
of a movement, or piece of strong clock-work,
kept in motion by a weight, and curiously fitted
with two governors, upon the plan of the
steam-engine, instead of a fly wheel. The
reflectors are ranged upon a horizontal frame,
which is made to revolve periodically upon a
perpendicular axis, exhibiting, to a distant ob-
server, the alternate effect of light and dark-
ness, in a very beautiful and simple manner.
The reflectors are brought round in succession
to the eye of the observer, and the angles, or
interstices between them, produce the effect
of darkness, by which this light is distinguished
from the light of the isle of May, and also
from the common surrounding lights on the
opposite shores. The light has further the
advantage of being elevated above the medium
level of the sea about 235 feet ; and such is
the powerful effect of the reflecting apparatus,
that it is distinctly seen in a favourable state of
the atmosphere, at the distance of four or five
leagues, although it is impossible that more
than a single reflector can be seen at a time.*
* Edin. Encv., article Inchkeith, written, we believe,
by Mr. Robert Stevenson, civil engineer, to which we
have to acknowledge considerable obligations in the above
description of the island.
The mechanism which moves the lights is ex-
ceedingly beautiful, and is kept in the highest
order. To examine it as a matter of curiosity,
or to view the island, the place is often visited
by boating parties from the Edinburgh side of
the fhrth, and it is generally selected by the
Highland Club as a fit theatre whereon to ex-
hibit their annual Olympic games. On this
gala occasion, the island is crowded with ladies
and gentlemen, who arrive in steam vessels to
witness the pastimes. The island is now the
property of the Buccleugh family.
INCH-KENNETH, an islet of the He-
brides, lying betwixt Mull and Icolmkill, and
possessing the ruins of a small religious esta-
blishment, once dependant on the adjacent is-
land.
INCH-LOANAG, an island in Loch Lo-
mond, of about a mile in length, being that ly-
ing furthest to the north, in the lower or wide
part of the lake. It is celebrated for its yew-
trees, which, during the period when the bow
was in use in warfare, were of great considera-
tion and value.
INCHMAHOME, anciently INSCHE-
MACHAME, an island of great historical
and antiquarian interest in the lake of Men-
teith in Perthshire, extending to the compass
of about five acres, and forming now a varied
wilderness of forest and fruit-trees, interspersed
with underwood, and chequered with moss-
grown ruins. Adjacent to it on the west, lies
the islet of Talla, where are still to be traced
the ruins of a castle, which was the principal
seat of the Grahams, Earls of Menteith, a peer-
age now dormant. At a very early period, the
island of Inchmahome became the residence
of some religious recluses, and in the year
1238, the Pope granted to Walter Cumyine,
Earl of Menteath, liberty to erect upon it a
priory or abbey, for the reception of canons-
regular of the order of St. Augustine, in con-
nexion with the abbey of Cambuskenneth. It
was afterwards united by King James IV. to
his royal chapel of Stirling. Subsequently, it
was separated from this chapel, and bestowed
by King James V. upon John Lord Erskine,
who became commendatory abbot. Accord-
ing to returns made to government in 1562,
the annual profits of the priory were L.234 in
money, besides certain quantities of grain.
The house had four chapels dependant upon
it. The island of Inchmahome was visited by
several distinguished royal personages ; amoiy
572
INCHTURE.
the rest, by Robert Bruce, who went thither
April 15th, 1310, and during his stay, execut-
ed a writ, seizing the goods and lands of a re-
bellious subject. When Scotland was invaded
by the English in 1547, for the purpose of forc-
ing the infant Queen Mary into a marriage with
Edward VI. her four guardians, one of whom
was the above John Lord Erskine, deposited
her person in this safe retreat, where she re-
mained with her four Marys,till she was sent
to France. Inchmahome was also visited by
James VI. and was the occasional place of
residence of many noblemen. The ruins of
the monastery, church, and cloisters, are very
extensive, and exhibit many specimens of fine
old architecture of a massive nature. The
dormitory and vaults have been for many ages
the place of sepidture of several noble and
ancient families. The most remarkable sculp-
tures in these depositories of the dead, are two
figures in relief, representing the last Earl and
last Countess of Menteith (of the Cumynes,)
which may be seen in the choir of the church.
The ruins of these interesting buildings are
sequestered in overhanging woods of consider-
able age and growth, which communicate an
air of great sylvan beauty to the little isle.
Some of the trees are said to be three cen-
turies old, and one of them, a Spanish ches-
nut, measures, near the ground, eighteen feet
in circumference. The island and its priory
have furnished the subject for a work by that
accurate and well-informed antiquary, the Rev.
Mr. Macgregor Stirling, extending to a quar-
to volume.
INCH-MARNOCH, an island of about
two miles in length, lying on the west side of
Bute, and having the ruins of a chapel de-
dicated to St. Marnoch, near its eastern
shore.
INCH-MICKERY, an islet in the Firth
of Forth, near its north shore, adjacent to the
island of Inchcolm.
INCH-MOAN, an islet in Loch Lomond,
lying east from Inch-Tannoch; it is chiefly peat-
moss.
INCH-MURRIN, or INCH-MARIN,
the largest island in Loch Lomond, near its
south-west extremity, extending two miles in
length. It is beautifully wooded, and is used
as a deer-park by the Duke of Montrose, who
has a hunting seat and offices upon it, near an
old castle, the residence of the ancient proprie-
tor, the Earl of Lennox. It is singular enough
that this island is not included in any county
or parochial division.
INCH-TAVANACH, or INCH-TAN-
NACH, an island in Loch Lomond, lying
near the shore on its west side, extending three
quarters of a mile in length and half a mile 4n
breadth. It is the loftiest of the various
islands in the lake, and is chiefly covered with
wood and heath.
INCH-TORR, or TORR-INCH, a small
woody islandin Loch Lomond, near its south end.
INCHTURE, a parish in the Carse of
Gowrie, Perthshire, lying on the north bank
of the Firth of Tay, opposite Flisk in Fife,
bounded by Longforgan on the east, Errol and
Kinnaird on the west, and Abemyte and
Longforgan on the north. It extends only
about a mile along the Tay, being broader
inland, and is nearly four miles from north to
south. The parish is one of the most pro-
ductive and beautiful in this rich district of
country. It possesses some fine seats and
pleasure-grounds, among others those of Ball-
indean, and Rossie Priory. The parish has
several villages. That of Inchture is situated
on the road from Perth to Dundee, distant
from the latter nine miles, and thirteen from
the former. The village of Ballerno or Balled-
garno lies about a mile further to the north, and
on the boundary of the parish from Errol is sit-
uated the sea-port and thriving village of Pol-
gavie, or Povvgavie- It is three miles north-east
from the village of Errol, and from it ship-
ments are made of corn and other native pro-
ducts. It has some granaries, storehouses,
and a pier, which can be approached by vessels
of from thirty to sixty tons burden. The
parish of Inchture incorporates the abrogated
parochial district of Rossie, which was united
to it in 1670. The original name seems to
have been Inchtower, from a tower placed
on one of those inches or islands with which
the Carse of Gowrie once abounded, and which
are now only rising grounds. — Population in
1821,958.
INCHYRA, or INCHIRY, a seaport
village in Gowrie, Perthshire, situated in the
parish of KinouL on the north bank of the
Tay, about six miles below Perth.
INGANESS BAY, a bay of about three
miles in length in Orkney, indenting the
mainland, nearly two miles to the east of
Kirkwall Bay. The headland on its west
side is called Inganess Head.
INNERLEITHEN.
573
INHALLOW See Enhallow.
INIS-CONNEL, an island in Loch-Awe,
Argyleshire — See Awe (Loch).
INIS-FRAOCH, or FRAOCH-ELAN,
nn island in Loch- Awe, Argyleshire. — See
Awe (Loch.)
INIS-HAIL, an island in Loch-Awe,
Argyleshire. — See Awe (Loch.)
INIS-ERAITH, an island in Loch-Awe,
Argyleshire — See Awe (Loch.)
INNERKIP, a parish in Renfrewshire,
occupying the north-west corner of the county,
bounded by the Firth of Clyde on the north
and west, by Largs in Ayrshire and Lochwin-
noch on the south, and by Greenock, which
once formed a part of it, on the east. It
extends about six miles from north to south,
by a breadth of four miles. The land ascends
from the shores, and forms in general a hilly
territory, intermixed with pleasing well-culti-
vated fields and fertile meadows. In the
southern part there is a good deal of moss.
The parish has several considerable rivulets,
the chief of which is the Kip Water, inter-
secting the district from east to west, and
falling into the Firth of Clyde. On this water
is situated the village of Innerkip, formerly
styled Inverkip, from being placed at the
mouth of Kip Water. The village stands
six miles west from Greenock, and besides
the parish church it has a dissenting meeting-
house. It is a place of resort for sea-bathing,
and is inhabited by a number of fishermen.
Three annual fairs are held. The neat small
town of Gourock lies on the banks of the
Firth of Clyde within the parish. There are
several seats in the vicinity of the above estu-
ary, among which is Ardgowan, an elegant
mansion in the midst of pleasure-grounds
Population in 1821, 2344.
INNERLEITHEN, or INVERLEI-
THEN, a parish in Peebles-shire, with a
small portion belonging to the county of Sel-
kirk, lying on the north or left bank of the
Tweed opposite Traquair, bounded by Peebles
and part of Eddleston on the west, Heriot and
Temple on the north, and Stow on the
east- It extends about seven miles from north
to south, by a breadth of from four to five
miles. The surface may be represented as
altogether pastoral and mountainous, except on
the banks of the Tweed, where there are some
fine flat fertile fields, and on the banks of its
tributary the Leithen, where cultivation is
spreading and improvements going forward.
The district is chiefly the basin of the Leithen
Water and the small bums poured into it-
This mountain-stream originates in the north-
western corner of the parish, and after a course
of about twelve miles falls into the Tweed
nearly opposite Traquair House, the seat
of the Earl of Traquair. The word Leitfien
is significant of a water which overflows its
banks. Improvements on a great scale have
been made in the district exposed to the Tweed,
especially on the estate of Glenormiston, which
now shows some fine plantations. Westward
from thence, near the -road to Peebles, and on
a rising ground overhanging the Tweed, stands
Horsburgh Castle, .now entirely in ruins. It
was anciently the seat of the Horsburghs, and
was used as one of the numerous peel-houses
on the Tweed, (See Peebles- shire.) From
it a pleasing view is obtained of the town of
Peebles further up the Tweed, and Nidpath
Castle beyond. It is mentioned that a natural
son of Malcolm IV. was drowned in a pool
near the foot of the Leithen, and that the first
night after his decease his body was deposited
in the parish church. Hence King Malcolm,
in granting the church to the monks of Kelso,
" in qua," says he, " prima node, corpus JUit
mei post obitum suum quievit," ordained that it
should have the power of giving a sanctuary to
those fleeing from justice, " quantum habet
Wedah aut Tyningham." In 1232, the church
was confirmed to the monks, by their diocesan,
William, the bishop of Glasgow. While the
church, with its vicarage and rectorial property,
continued with these churchmen, the village
of Inverleithen, with the circumjacent district,
continued a • part of the royal demesne, during
the reign of Alexander II. In 1674, that part
of the suppressed parish of Kailzie, lying north
of the Tweed, was annexed to the parish of
Inverleithen.
INNERLEITHEN, a village in Peebles-
shire, the capital of the above parish, situated
at the distance of about twenty-eight miles
from Edinburgh, and six east from Peebles.
It stands on a flat piece of ground within a quar-
ter of a mile of the left bank of the Tweed,
environed on the east and west by high and
partly wooded hills. The Leithen water pro-
ceeding out of the vale on the north, passes
through the village to the Tweed, and is crossed
by a stone bridge carrying along the road
from Peebles to Selkirk. By far the greater
574
INNERLEITHEN.
part of the houses stand on the right bank of
the Leithen, on the property of the Earl of
Traquair, who has feued the ground on advan-
tageous terms. The lands east from the Lei-
then form part of the estate of Pirn. For
many ages the village, or rather hamlet, of
Innerleithen was among the smallest and most
primitive of this pastoral and thinly populated
district, consisting of little else than a few
thatched houses near the Leithen, and a mill,
with the church of the parish, situated a short
way up the vale. Placed in a secluded part
of Scotland, and out of the way of general
traffic, it seemed to have every chance of re-
maining for a long time in obscurity. While
in this condition, during the last century, it
was pitched upon as being well suited for be-
ing a seat of woollen manufactures, chiefly
in consideration of its site in the midst of an
extensive pastoral county, and upon the brink
of a rapid ninning brook, which offered a
powerful fall of water. That which may have
been observed by different individuals was seen
with greater clearness by a native of the dis-
trict, who had risen to great wealth by a course
of successful industry in London. This pa-
triotic person was a Mr. Alexander Brodie, who
was by profession a blacksmith, and had origi-
nally gone to the British metropolis in search of
employment, having at the time only a few
shillings in his pocket. In the course of a
number of years, by great skill in his business,
this person realized a very large fortune. Many
years before his death, about the year 1 790,
he bethought himself of raising the consequence
of Innerleithen, by the establishment of a
woollen factory, which was forthwith erected
at a considerable expense, L.3000 being ex-
pended on the works and machinery. This
manufactory, which is a house of five storeys,
attracted a number of settlers to the village,
and scattered a good deal of money in the vici-
nity, but till this day its success has been very
limited, and various lessees have lost capital
by carrying it on. The cloth produced is most-
ly blue, and of a coarse quality. While the vil-
lage acquired a more comfortable aspect under
the influence of its cloth factory, it gradually be-
came known for the possession of a salubrious
mineral spring, held to be of great virtue in
scorbutic and other affections. We understand
that it was not till about the beginning of the
present century that this spring attracted par-
ticular notice. After it did acquire its character
as a spa, it continued to be only administered
from a simple pump to those country people
who trusted in its healing properties. Little
more than ten years ago, if not less, " Inner-
leithen well," in a strangely sudden and unac-
countable manner, acquired a very high degree
of reputation among real or imaginary valetu-
dinarians, all over the south of Scotland and
especially in Edinburgh. The old primitive
pump was disused, and an elegant structure
being reared over the spring, by the late Earl
of Traquair, the place was made to vie with
some of the long established watering places
in England. Its celebrity was further en-
hanced in 1824, by the publication of the novel,
by the author of Waverley, entitled St. Ronans*
Well, of which place it was fondly imagined
to be the prototype. This part of the vale of
Tweed being simultaneously or previously
opened up by the running of stage coaches
from Edinburgh to Peebles, and of conveyances
from thence to Innerleithen, there was now no
hinderance to visitors, and the consequence has
been, that every year since, the number of
lodgers in the summer and autumn months has
been on the increase. Much of this populari-
ty has been owing to the proximity of the vil-
lage to Edinburgh, and the ease with which it
can be reached, in which peculiarities it is su-
perior to Pitcaithly, Moffat, Dumblane, and
other watering places. There are also various
advantages connected with its locality which
will not be overlooked. It is a fit place of
temporary residence for those fond of angling,
as, besides the Tweed, and the Leithen, it is
near the Quair, and at no great distance from
St. Mary's Loch in Yarrow, as well as other
trouting waters. The climate is allowed to
be dry and healthy, and the country is here
so secluded that there is no disagreeable in-
terruption in making extensive promenades.
To accommodate the numerous transient re-
sidents, a number of substantial houses have
been built, forming a neat small street along
the public road, with a variety of houses
behind, which are let as private furnished
lodgings. The village has now two public
inns, one of which is provided with a ball-
room or large dining apartment; some good
shops, and a circulating library. Newspapers
are taken in at the pump-room. At one of the
shops, fishing tackle is sold and lent to anglers
on moderate terms. During the season the en-
joyments of the visitor are promoted by con-
INNERWICK.
575
certs, balls, public readings, parties to St.
Mary's Loch, shooting parties to Elibank and
Horsburgh Wood, as well as by the exhibitions
of a party of strolling players, &c. Thetrusteesof
the roads in this quarter of Tweeddalehave been
very assiduous in improving the thoroughfares
near Innerleithen. A new road has been formed
along the vales of the Leithen and Willanslee
Burn, towards the head of the vale of Heriot,
by which, as soon as the Mid-Lothian part is
finished, a ready communication will be had
with Mid and East-Lothian, and the districts
producing coal and lime. Fully as beneficial
and a much more beautiful improvement has
been instituted in the erection of a handsome
wooden bridge across the Tweed to Traquair,
by which strangers have now an opportunity
of visiting the classic shades of the " bush
aboon Traquair," and the scenery on the right
bank of the Tweed. The bridge is erected
on strong piers in the water, and permits the
passage of horses and carriages, a convenience
of great moment as regards intercourse by carts
to the head of the Yarrow, the fords being
often impassable for days at a time. The vi-
sitors who take an interest in the prosperity of
the village, along with the regular inhabitants,
have recently instituted an association, styl-
ed the St. Roman's JBordar Club, which is
composed of a great number of gentlemen con-
nected with all parts of the country, under
whose auspices is held an annual festival, for
the exhibition of Olympic games or gymnastic
exercises. Under the patronage of this body,
there is also a competition in trout-fishing for
one day in the year, — the person who catches,
by the rod, the greatest aggregate weight of
fish, being rewarded with a medal. The day
of competition is usually the Edinburgh fast-
day in May. The competitors in and patrons
of these pastimes always dine together, and
close the day in convivialities, which are ordi-
narily enlivened by the presence of men emi-
nent in different walks of literature. — Po-
pulation of the parish and village in 1821,
705.
INNERPEFFRAY, or INCHAFF-
REY, an ancient abbey in Perthshire, in the
parish of Madderty, situated on the banks of the
Earn. This religious building is now in ruins.
Its abbot attended Robert Bruce on the day of
Bannockburn, and administered the sacrament
to the Scottish soldiery before the battle.—
There is a small village near the ruins.
INNERWELL, a sea-port village in Wig-
tonshire.
INNERWICK, a parish in the county of
Haddington, bounded by Oldhamstocks on the
east, Spott and' Dunbar on the west, the sea
on the north, and Cranshaws and Longforma-
cus in Berwickshire on the south. Extend-
ing thus across East Lothian, it measures ten
miles in length by a general breadth of from
two to three miles. The parish comprises a
considerable part of the mountainous and pas-
toral district of Lammermoor, and towards the
north declines into beautiful cultivated braes,
and finally into that rich flat territory along
the sea- coast east from Dunbar. The shore is
here bold and precipitous, and there is gather-
ed from the beach a considerable quantity of
sea-ware, which is applied to purposes of ma-
nure- The low fertile lands in this quarter of
Haddingtonshire are let at exceedingly high
rents, but only at rates commensurate with
their productive qualities. There are now a
variety of plantations in the uplands, and the
fields are all well enclosed. The village of
Innerwick lies with a northern exposure at the
base of the hilly country, rather more than a
mile to the west of the road from Dunbar to
Berwick. In its vicinity stands the ruin of
the ancient castle of Innerwick, of which a
drawing is to be found in Grose's Antiquities.
This castle originally belonged to the younger
branch of the family of Hamilton, who from
it were styled Hamiltons of Innerwick. It
was one of those small fortalices built for the
defence of the borders, in cases of sudden at-
tack, or popular insurrections ; of which John
Major says, there were two in every league.
Its situation is rather secluded, and it is ro-
mantically erected on the summit of a rocky
eminence, overhanging a woody glen, which
divided it from the fortlet of Thornton, a
stronghold of a similar description now entire™
ly erased. The castle of Innerwick was
besieged, taken and destroyed, by the troops
under the Duke of Somerset, whose onfall is
thus quaintly described by Patten : — While
a body of miners were left to blow up the walls
of Dinglas castle, the army marched on at the dis-
tance of a mile and a half northward, and arrived
at " two pyles or holdes, Thornton and Inder-
wiche, set both on a craggy foundation, and
divided a stone's cast asunder, by a deep gut
wherin ran a little river. Thornton belonged
to the Lord Hume, and was kept then by one
576
I N N E R W I C K.
Tom Trotter ; whereunto my lord's grace
overnight, for summons, sent Somerset, his
herald, toward whom iiii. or v. of his captain's
prikkers, with their gaddes ready charged,
did right hastily direct their course ; but
Trotter both honestly defended the herald,
and sharply rebuked his men ; and said for
the summons he would come speak with
my lord's grace himself; notwithstanding he
came not, but straight lockt up sixteen poor
souls, like the soldiers of Douglas, fast within
the house, took the keys with him, and com-
manding them they should defend the house,
and tarry within, (as they could not get out,)
till his return, which should be on the morrow,
with munition and relief, he with his prikkers
prikt quite his ways. Innerwick pertained to
the lord of Hambleton (Hamilton), and was
kept by his son and heir, (whom of custom
they call the master of Hamilton), and an viii.
more with him, gentlemen for the most part,
as we heard say. My lord's grace, at his com-
ing nigh, sent unto both these pyles, which,
upon summons, refusing to surrender, were
straight assailed. Thornton, by battery of iiii.
of our great peices of ordnance, and certain of
Sir Peter Mewtus hakbutters to watch the
loop-holes and windows on all sides, and In-
nerwick by a sort of the same hakbutters alone,
who so well bestirred them, that where these
keepers had - rammed up their outer doors, clay-
ed and stopped up their stairs within, and kept
themselves aloft for defiance of their house
about the battlements, the hakbutters gat in,
and fired them underneath ; whereby being
greatly troubled with smoke and smother, and
brought in desperation of defence, they called
pitifully over the walls to my lord's grace for
mercy ; who, notwithstanding their great ob-
stinacy, and the ensample other of the enemies
might have had by their punishment, of his no-
ble generosity, and by these words, making
half excuse for them, (Men may sometimes do
that hastily in a gere, whereof, after, they may
soon repent them), did take them to grace, and
therefore sent one straight to them. But ere
the messenger came, the hakbutterhad got up te
them, and killed eight of them aloft ; one leapt
over the walls, and running more than a fur-
long after, was slain without in water* All
this while, at Thornton, our assault and their
defence was stoutly continued ; but well per-
ceiving, how, on the one side, they were bat-
tered, aimed on the other, kept in with hak-
butters round about, and some of our men
within also, occupying all the house under
them, (for they had likewise shopt up them-
selves in the highest of their house,) and so to
do nothing inward or outward, neither by shoot-
ing of base, (whereof they had but one or two,)
nor tumbling of stones, (the things of their
chief annoyance,) whereby they might be able
any while to resist our power, or save them-
selves, they plucked in a banner that afore they
had set out in defiance, and puts over the walls
a white linen clout tied on a stick's end, crying
all with one tune for mercy ; but having an-
swer by the whole voice of the assailers, they
were traitors, and it was too late, they pluck-
ed in their stick, and sticked up the banner of
defiance again, shot of hurled stones, and did
what else they coidd, with great courage of
their side, and little hurt of ours. Yet, then,
after being assured by our earnesty, that we
had vowed the winning of their hold before
our departure, and then, that their obstinacy
could deserve no less than death, plucked in
their banner once again, and cried upon mercy ;
and being generally answered, nay, nay, look
never for it, for ye are arrant traitors ; then
made they a petition, that if they should needs
die, yet that my lord's grace would be so good
to them as they might be hanged, whereby
they might somewhat reconcile themselves to
Godward, and not die in malice with so great
danger of their souls ; a policy sure, in my
mind, though but of gross heddes, yet of a fine
device. Sir Miles Patrick being nigh about
this pyle at this time, and spying one in a
red doublet,- did guess he should be an Eng-
lishman, and therefore came and furthered this
petition to my lord's grace, the rather, which
then took effect. They came and humbled
themselves to his grace, whereupon, without
more hurt, they were commanded to the pro-
vost marshal. It is somewhat here to consi-
der, I know not whether the destiny or hap of
man's life, the more worthy men, the less of-
fenders, and more in the judge's grace, were
slain ; and the beggars, the obstinate rebels
that deserved nought but cruelty, were saved.
To say on now, the house was soon after so
blown with powder that more than one half
fell straight down to rubbish and dust ; the
rest stood all to be shaken with riftes and
chynkes. Innerwick was burned, and all the
houses of office and stalks of corn about them
both. While this was thus in hand, my lord's
I N V E R A R V.
577
grace, in turning but about, saw the fall of
Dunglas, which likewise was undermined and
blown with powder." Near Branxton, in the
parish of Innerwick, on a hill a little above
the bridge vulgarly called Edinkens, but pro-
perly Edwin's Bridge, stood four grey stones,
to mark the burial-place of Edwin, prince of
Northumbria, who was killed at this spot.
These interesting memorials of the death of
the Anglo-Saxon, whose name has been ren-
dered imperishable by the title of Edinburgh,
were some time ago removed for agricultural
convenience. In a field near Dryburn-bridge,
on the farm of Skateraw, two stone coffins
were lately discovered, containing a dagger and
a ring. — Population in 1821, 924.
INSCH, or INCH, a parish in the district
of Garioch, Aberdeenshire, extending five
miles in length by three in breadth, bounded by
Culsalmond on the east, Kinnethmont on the
west, and separated on the north by the water
cf Urie, from Drumblade arid Forgue. Only a
small portion is arable. The Kirktown of
Insch, which is a burgh of barony with a week-
iy market, stands at the southern extremity of
the parish, at the distance of twenty-six miles
from Aberdeen. Part of the high hill of
Foudland is within the district. — Population
in 1821, 1059.
INVER, or INVAR, a village in Perth-
snire, in the parish of Little Dunkeld, standing
on the right bank of the Tay, a short way
above the junction of the Bran with that
river.
INVER, (Loch) an arm of the sea on the
west coast of Sutherlandshire, projected into
the parish of Assynt, and receiving at its inner
extremity the waters of Inverkirkag, which
issue from Loch Assynt. At the point where
this water enters Loch Inver stands the village
of Inver.
INVERARY, a parish in Argyleshire,
lying chiefly betwixt Loch -Awe and Loch-
Fyne, extending eighteen miles in length, by
an average breadth of three miles. The dis-
trict is hilly, and is only arable in the lower
parts, where the soil is of a productive nature.
Near Loch Fyne, and along the bottom of dif-
ferent vales, there are now many beautiful plan-
tations. The two principal rivers in the pa.
rish are the Ary or Aoreidh (which gives its
name to the parish and town,) and the Shira.
The Ary has a run of eight miles, and falls
into Loch Fyne at the town of Inverary. It
pursues a course partly through rugged and un-
even ground, covered with wood, and forms
several natural cascades of considerable beauty.
The Shira is a smooth running water further
to the north, which flows through the highly
cultivated vale of * Glenshira, and discharges
itself into the fresh water lake entitled Loch
Dow, which is emitted into Loch Fyne.
Inverary, a royal burgh in Argyleshire,
the capital of the county, and of the above pa-
rish, and the seat of a presbytery, and circuit
court of justiciary. It occupies a delightful si-
tuation on the west side of Loch Fyne, near
its upper extremity, at the distance of one
hundred and two miles west by north of Edin-
burgh, sixty north-west from Glasgow, thirty-
two south-east of Oban, and seventy-three
north-north-east of Campbelltown. In front
of the town is a small bay of Loch Fyne
environed by romantic woody hills, and on its
north side, within extensive and beautiful plea-
sure-grounds, stands the castle of Inverary, the
seat of the Duke of Argyle. Behind this
splendid mansion the river Ary issues into the
loch, and from its margin rises the pyramidal
hill of Duinicoich to the height of seven hun-
dred feet, embellished and wooded to the sum-
mit in all the prodigality of nature and of art.
The town of Inverary is of small dimensions
and of irregular construction, consisting chiefly
of one row of houses facing the lake. Within
these few years many substantial residences
have been erected, and the houses are all well
built and slated- Originally the town — then a
mere village — was situated on the north side
of the bay, and partook of the usual squalor of
Highland villages, but being removed to its
present situation by its proprietor, the Duke
of Argyle, considerable attention has been
bestowed in giving the modern town an air
of neatness and cleanliness. In the main
street stands a comfortable modern church,
in which the services are performed both in
Gaelic and English ; on the shore is a sub
stantial stone edifice, used as a jail and court-
house, and in the neighbourhood are two
good inns. The town possesses a grammar
school, supported by the Duke of Argyle ; a
female charity school, endowed by her Grace
the Duchess; and the parish school. The
principal trade carried on here is that of the
herring fishery, and for the convenience of
ships, in this and general traffic, a well-built
quay projects-so far into the bay, as to enable
4e
578
INVERARV
vessels of considerable burden to load and un-
load at low water. Races are occasionally
held at Inverary, for horses bred in the county,
and there are annual fairs in May and June.
There are two nominal market-days — Tuesday
and Friday, but they are not attended to. In-
verary was an early seat of the Argyle family,
under whose influence the town was erected
into a royal burgh by Charles I. (when in
Carisbrook castle,) in 1648. By this arrange-
ment, its civic government consists of a pro-
vost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer,
and a council appointed by the Duke. The
burgh joins with Ayr, Irvine, Rothesay, and
Campbelton, in electing a member of parlia-
ment. Its revenue arises from the petty cus-
toms, the rent of a common, and an annuity of
L.20 given by the late Duke Archibald. In-
verary castle is the principal object of attrac-
tion in this part of Scotland. It is a modern
square edifice, built to replace one of an an-
cient date, and is constructed with a tower at
each corner. All travellers speak with rap-
tures of the beauty of the scenery around this
elegant mansion, as well as the splendour of its
interior decorations. The Dukes of Argyle are
said to have spent no less than L 30,000 in
building, planting, improving, making roads and
other works of utility and decoration, in and
about the castle. The collections of old
Highland armour to be found within the
saloon, are worthy of the particular attention
of the visitor. Strangers are freely admitted,
the payment of a fee to the cicerone being
of course expected. Till within the last six
or eight years, Inverary was a town rarely
visited by strangers, on account of its inacces-
sibility. It is now daily visited every summer
by scores of tourists, the most of whom come
thither directly from Glasgow by one or other
of the numerous vehicles, terrestrial and marine,
which ply towards it from that city. Inverary
being now a chief rallying point in these ex-
cursions into the West Highlands, it may here
be advantageous to notice the routes by which
it can be approached from Glasgow. These
routes are three in number, all of which are
more or less calculated to delight the traveller
in search of the picturesque. First, there are
steam-boats which conduct him down the
Clyde, touching at Greenock and Rothesay,
then through the tortuous and beautiful strait
called the ' Kyles of Bute," and finally up the
long arm of the sea called Loch Fyne, near
25.
the head of which Inverary is situated. The
advantages of this sail, which generally occu-
pies a whole day, are, that the traveller sees,
by the way, the whole of the lower part of
Clyde, the beautiful little town of Rothesay,
the fine scenery of the Kyles, and the dark
lofty serrated outline of the isle of Arran, in
addition to the general scenery of Argyleshire,
a noble specimen of which is presented during
the sail up Loch Fyne. The second route is
more direct. The traveller pays a small sum
at Glasgow, as his fare for the journey to In-
verary, and embarks on board a steam-boat,
which conducts him down the Clyde and into
a small arm of the sea called Holy Loch.
From this little gulf, which stretches north-
ward from the Firth of Clyde, and which is
surrounded by the finest scenery, he disembarks
at the little parish-village of Kilmun, where he
is provided with a coach which conducts him
through a wild vale of four or five miles in
length, to the bottom of a beautiful inland lake
called Loch Eck. Here he is shipped on
board of a steam-vessel and carried to the
head of the loch, when, disembarking, he is
once more transferred to a coach, and convey-
ed across a grand isthmus of mountain land
in a westerly direction, till he reaches Strach-
ur. He has then only to cross Loch Fyne
in another steam-boat in order to arrive at In-
verary. This journey, which may be perform-
ed with perfect convenience for a few shillings,
and which lays open to view one of the finest
tracts of scenery in Scotland, generally occu-
pies altogether seven hours. The third route
to Inverary involves the famous scenery of
Loch Lomond and Glencroe, and is somewhat
more circuitous than that just mentioned.
This journey, like the other, though extending
over both sea and land, may be performed by
paying a certain sum, a very small one, at Glas-
gow. The tourist is conducted to a place near
Dumbarton by a steam-boat ; then crosses over
a small piece of country by a coach to Balloch,
at the foot of Loch Lomond. Embarking in
a steam-boat on Loch Lomond, he sails four-
teen miles northward to a place called Tarbet
on its west side, from whence a coach conveys
him over an isthmus to the head of Loch Long,
which is an arm of the sea parallel to Loch
Lomond. On reaching the head of this beau-
tiful sheet of water, the road proceeds through
an opening towards the west, and enters the
vale of Glencroe. The traveller ascends to
INVERE9K.
579
the head of this lonely and magnificent vale
(described in its proper place,) by a steep and
painful path, from the top of which he pro-
ceeds to Cairndow, on the bank of Loch Fyne,
where a boat is to be procured, to convey him
down the loch to Inverary — Population of the
parish and town of Inverary in 1821, 1137.
IN VE RARITY, a parish in Forfarshire,
bounded on the west by Glammis and Tealing,
on the south by Muirhouse and Monikie, on the
east by part of Guthrie and Dunnichen, and on
the north by Forfar and Kinnettles. It is of
a compact form, extending to a length and
breadth of about four miles. The surface is
uneven, and for the greater part of a poor soil,
with much waste land. Extensive plantations
and other improvements are in progress. The
church stands on a rivulet tributary to the Dean.
— Population in 1821, 966.
IN VE RAVEN, a parish chiefly in Banff-
shire, with a small portion belonging to the
county of Moray, stretching from the Spey
to the borders of Aberdeenshire ; bounded by
AberlourandMortlacnon the north, Cabrach on
the east ; and on the south and west by Crom-
dale and Kirkmichael; extending fourteen miles
in length by nine in breadth in some places.
The river Aven, which proceeds out of Kirk-
michael parish, runs through the district and
falls into the Spey at Ballindalloch. A short
way further down the banks of the Spey, stands
the kirk of Inveraven. Within the parish, the
Aven receives the water of Livet or Livat,
which runs through a vale to which it gives
the name of Glenlivet, — a district celebrated
for the excellence of its whisky. This vale
is remarkably fertile. The banks of the rivers
are planted, and abound with copses of birch
and alder, and on the banks of the Spey there
is a considerable extent of oak-wood. The
parish possesses various remains of antiquity.
—Population in 1821, 2481.
INVERBERVIE, more commonly called
Bervie, see Bervie.
INVERCHAOLAIN, or INVER-
HALLAN, a parish in the southern part of
Cowal, Argyleshire, intersected by an arm of
the sea, called Loch Streven, which runs about
eight miles into the country, the two sides of
which, with the channel that divides the is-
land of Bute from this part of Cowal, present
a sea- coast in this parish of above three miles.
The district is mountainous and pastoral.
There are some gentlemen's seats along
the shores. The parish kirk 6tands on the
east side of Loch Streven. — Population in
1821, 651.
INVERESK, a parish in the county of
Edinburgh, lying on the shore of the Firth of
Forth, and bounded on the east by Preston-
pans and Tranent, on the south chiefly by
Dalkeith, and on the west by Newton, Liber-
ton, and Duddingston. It extends fully three
miles and a half from west to east, and two
from north to south. The situation of this
parish has with justice been called one of the
most delightful in Scotland. The low part of it
adjacent to the sea is only a few feet above the
level of the highest tides, being in many places
fertile downs formed by the subsidence of the
water, and the increase of sand on the beach.
Behind this low ground the land rises in rich
arable fields, and inclines into the verdant vale
through which flows the river Esk. On the
east side of this beautiful valley, and within
half a mile of the sea, there stands forward a
fine rising ground, with a free exposure to the
west and north, and on its summit has for
ages stood the parish church of Inveresk.
Though little more than fifty feet above the
level of the sea, a most extensive and pleasing
view can be obtained of this district of Mid-
Lothian, the bay of Musselburgh, part of
East Lothian, and the coast of Fife. The
country here is under the highest state of cul-
tivation, is well enclosed and embellished with
plantations, and is more populous than any
other part of the county out of the metropoli-
tan district. The parish of Inveresk is not
more remarkable for its beauty than for the
salubrity of its climate, in which respect it
is said so far to surpass other districts of
the kingdom that its village has been styled
the Montpelier of Scotland. Within the pa-
rish are comprehended the towns of Mussel,
burgh and Fisherrow, with a variety of ham-
lets and detached buildings. Musselburgh
and Fisherrow occupy a low situation at the
mouth of the Esk betwixt the sea and Inver-
esk, and are described under their appropriate
heads. The beauty of the mount on which
Inveresk stands, and its adaptation to the pur-
poses of fortification, did not escape the vigi-
lance of the Romans while fixing themselves
in this part of the province of Valentia. His-
tory informs us that they had a station here,
680
INVERESK.
and repeated discoveries point out the spot
where the Praetorium was reared. The first
discovery of Roman antiquities at Inveresk
took place in April, 1565, and the Scottish
Antiquarian Transactions, Vol. II. contains
two letters upon the subject, written by Ran-
dolph, the English resident at the court of
Queen Mary, to Sir Robert Cecil, the minis-
ter of Queen Elizabeth. What was then dis-
covered seems to have been a cave and an
altar, the latter having the following inscrip-
tion: — " Apollini Granno, [i. e. to the
long-haired Apollo,] Quintus Lucius Sa-
einianus, Proconsul Augusti, votum su-
sceitum solvit, lubens merito." It is no-
ticed particularly, and the inscription is given
in the work of Camden, which was published
not long after. It is also alluded to by the
almost contemporary Napier of Merchiston, as
follows : He says, besides in Rome itself,
" In every part of that empire are there infi-
nite of these temples, idols, and other monu •
merits erected, and even at Musselburgh, among
ourselves in Scotland, a foundation of a Ro-
man monument lately found (now utterlie de-
molished,) bearing this inscription dedicatoiy,
" Apollini Granno," &c. — Plaine Discoverie,
&c p. 210- Edinburgh, 1593, 4 to. If thus
early demolished, it does not appear that the
fault lay with the sovereign reigning at the
time of the discovery, whose enlightened mind
would naturally suggest that the utmost care
ought to be taken of the monument, lest it
should catch damage at the hands of the igno-
rant and ruin-loving mob of those days. In the
treasurer's books there occurs the following
proof of Mary's anxiety to preserve it : —
" Aprile, 1565, Item, to ane boy passand of
Edinburgh with ane charge of the Queen's
grace, direct to the baillies of Musselburgh,
charging thame to tak diligent heid and attend-
ance, that the monument of grit antiquity new
fundin be nocht demolish't nor brokin down —
xiid." that is a Scots shilling, or a penny Ster-
ling. The second discovery, which was su-
perintended by the Rev. Dr. Carlyle, minister
of the parish, took place in January 1783, and
is thus described by him in the Statistical Ac-
count. " If there had," says he, " remained
any doubt concerning the situation of this Ro-
man fort, it was fully cleared up a few years
ago, when, the proprietor of a villa haviig oc-
casion to take two or three feet off the sur-
face of his parterre, there were there disco-
vered the floors and foundations of various
buildings. The owner being absent, attend-
ing his duty in parliament, the workmen were
prevailed upon, by the author of this account,
to clear the earth carefully away from one of
them, and to leave the ruins standing for some
time, for the inspection of the curious. It was
found to be a Roman bath of two rooms.
The superstructure had been thrown down
and removed, but the floor remained entire,
and about six inches high of the wall of the
smallest room, which was nine feet long, and
four and a half wide. There was a communi-
cation for water, by an earthen pipe, through
the partition wall. The other room was fifteen
feet by nine. The floors of these, and of the
other rooms, were covered with tarras uniform-
ly laid on, about two inches thick. Below
this coat there was a coarser sort of lime and
gravel five inches deep, laid upon unshapely
and unjointed flags. This floor stood on pil-
lars two feet high, some of stone, and some of
circular bricks. The earth had been removed
to come to a solid foundation, on which to
erect the pillars. Under the tarras of the
smallest room there was a coarser tarras, fully
ten inches thick, which seemed intended to
sustain or bear a more considerable fire under
it, than the Hypocaustum of the largest room.
There appeared to have been large fires un-
der it, as the pillars were injured by them, and
there was found a quantity of charcoal in per-
fect preservation. The Hypocaustum of the
larger room, or space under the tarrassed
floor, was filled with earth, and with flues
made of clay, which were laid everywhere be-
tween the rows of pillars, and were a little
discoloured with smoke ; a smaller degree of
heat having been conveyed through them than
through those under the other room. But
these contrivances under the floors seem only
to have been intended to preserve heat in the
water, which had been conveyed heated from a
kettle, built up or hung on brick-work, on
one side of the largest room. This brick-
work w as four feet square, and much injured
by strong fires. This seems to have been a
kind of building used by the Romans only for
temporary use. The cement, or tarras, suf-
ficiently proves by whom it was made, as the
Roman composition of that kind is superior to
any of later ages. It is remarkable, that the
tarras of the grand sewers under the city of
Rome is o f the same kind ; and it is related
INVERESK.
381
by travellers, that in the very ancient buildings
in the kingdom of Bengal, the very same sort
has been used. Two medals were found
among the nuns, now in the possession of Ro-
bert Colt, Esq., owner of the villa; one of
gold, much defaced, which is supposed to be
of Trajan ; another of copper, on which the in-
scription is clear, Diva Faustina. There are
traditional accounts, that in digging foundations
of houses in Fisherrow, there have been found
similar ruins of Hypocausta, which afford a
proof that this station was not merely military,
but was a Colonia Romana or Municipium ;
that they had many houses and buildings near
the sea, as well as their pratorium at Inver-
esk ; and that one of their principal harbours on
this side of the Frith was at Fisherrow. From
that harbour, situated where there is one at
present, there was a Roman causeway, (the
traces of which remained within the memory
of some still living,) which led to their camp
at Sheriff Hall, three miles south-west and on-
wards to Borthwick." The parish of Inver-
esk possesses other localities, interesting from
their connexion with the history of the country.
Leaving the [antiquities of Musselburgh to be
noticed under their proper head, we may here
state, that at the east end of this town, within en-
closed pleasure-grounds, stands Pinkie House,
the seat of Sir" John Hope, Bart, and occupying
a'site adjacent to^the field of the battle of Pin-
kie, which was fought in the year 1547 between
the Scots and English. This unfortunate battle
took place in the field that lies between the vil-
lages of Inveresk, Walliford and Carberryhill ;
and was brought on by the usual impetuosity of
the Scots, who would not wait till the English
army, who were beginning to run short of pro-
visions, had been obliged to retreat. The
Scottish army were encamped on that large
field west of the Esk, which went by the name
of Edmonstone Edge ; the English lay at
places now called Drummore and Walliford.
As the Scots passed the bridge of Mussel-
burgh, and marched to the field up the hill of
Inveresk, on the west side of the church, there
being then no village, and only two shepherds'
houses on that hill, they were annoyed by can-
non shot from the English galleys in the bay ;
insomuch, that Lord Graham, eldest son of
the first Earl of Montrose, with many of his
followers, was killed on the bridge. To have
crossed the river at any other place, would
have been still more dangerous, as there was
then a thick wood on the banks of it, all the
way to Dalkeith. After passing the church
of Inveresk, they must have been covered from
the shot, as the ground slopes from thence down
to the How Mire, (in those days a morass,
though now drained and cultivated,) from
whence it rises gently to the bottom of the
hills of Carberry and Falside. Just over the
field of battle there is a hill, which was still
more fatal to Queen Mary, and has been known
ever since by the name of the Queen's Seat.
It is the top of the hill of Carberry, where
that unfortunate princess sat on a stone, and
held a conference with Kirkaldy of Grange,
who had been commissioned for that purpose
by the confederate lords. During this parley,
Bothwell, who had taken leave of the Queen
for the last time, rode off the field to Dunbar.
As soon as he was out of danger, Mary suf .
fered herself to be led by Kirkaldy to Morton
and the Lords, who received her with due
marks of respect, and ample promises of fu-
ture loyalty and obedience. The sequel is well
known. From that hour she was deprived of
liberty for life, except for the few days that
intervened between her escape from Lochleven
Castle and her surrender to Elizabeth, after the
battle of Langside. The late proprietor of Car-
berry, John Fullarton, Esq. has marked the
spot, by planting a copse-wood upon it. The
parish of Inveresk abounds in freestone, but
its chief mineral product is coal, which is dug
to a vast extent, principally by Sir John Hope,
as lessee of certain mines. Near the beauti-
ful grounds of New Hailes, at a short dis-
tance from the left bank of the Esk, this gen-
tleman has erected a stupendous steam-engine
for lifting water from the workings, as is no-
ticed under the head Edinburghshire. A
new rail-way passes in this quarter from the
southern pits towards Edinburgh. Besides
the manufactures* carried on in Musselburgh,
there are considerable salt-works on the sea-
shore, as well as a manufactory of earthen ware
in the parish. This latter article and salt are
made at the village of West Pans (being west
from Prestonpans,) about a mile and a half
below Musselburgh, and salt has been long made
at the Magdalene Pans, which lie in the west-
ern part of the parish, on the road to Edin-
burgh. At Fisherrow there is a small har-
bour, the only sea-port in this quarter. The
village of Inveresk is of modern date, and con-
sists of little else than a series of cottages or
582
INVERESK.
ne*es, or large mansions, standing on both sides
of the public way on the top of the afore-men-
tioned mount, secluded within high walls, and
embosomed among lofty trees. At the base
of the hill towards Musselburgh, is a suburb
styled Newbigging, and here, as well as in
Inveresk, there are certain houses fitted up,
and used as private asylums for lunatics, — the
purity of the air, the mildness of the climate,
and the beauty of the scenery, equally adapt-
ing the place for the residence of persons so
afflicted. At the west end of the village, on a
most prominent situation, stands the church of
Inveresk, built about thirty years since, to
replace one of a very ancient date, then in
frail condition. The old edifice had been de-
dicated to St. Michael, and according to the
conjectures of Dr. Carlyle, had been built soon
after the introduction of Christianity, out of the
ruins of the Roman fort. The stones, at least,
appeared to have been the same with those dis-
covered in the ruins of the Praetorium, and there
were evidently many Roman bricks in the
building. With the advantage of the very
best situation in Scotland for the erection of a
tasteful new edifice, the church which has sup-
plied the place of the ancient fabric is not only
ungainly in its appearance, but is absolutely
insufficient in workmanship. When first put
up, it consisted of only a barn-like house,
and to relieve its deformity a steeple was after-
wards added. Though of a low order of archi-
tecture, the plan of the spire was that which
was to have governed the erection of the stee-
ple of St. Andrew's church in Edinburgh,
from which it was fortunately rescued at the
suggestion of, and by the improved model of-
fered by Mr. John M'Leish. In the burying
ground around the church, there are many ele-
gant monuments ; and on the north side, on the
brow of the eminence, and earthen mount or
rampart is shown, called Oliver's mount, having
oeen erected by Cromwell as the site of a battery
to command the passage of the bridge across the
Esk, a short way below. At the east end of
the burying ground a similar mount was levelled
in the course of extending the cemetery ; and
bones having been found in good preservation
eleven feet beneath the surface, it has been ar-
gued with propriety, in opposition to the theory
of Lord Hailes as to their having been Roman
mounds, that these mounts must have been
thrown up on the occasion above alluded to,
especially as it is known that Cromwell had
here a magazine of the munitions of war, du-
ring his occupancy of this part of Scotland.
The Highland army, in 1745, also fitted up a
battery at Inveresk church-yard, which they
abandoned on their marching into England.—
Populatio'n of the landward part of the parish
of Inveresk, in 1821, 564; including Mussel-
burgh and Fisherrow, 7836.
INVERGORDON, a village in Ross-
shire, parish of Rosskeen, lying on the north
side of the Cromarty Firth, and from whence
there is a regular ferry to Cromarty. In the
year 1828, an excellent harbour was formed
here, by Roderick Macleod, Esq. of Cadboll,
at an expense of L.5000, an instance of public
spirit well worthy of commendation. The
chief advantage of this harbour is, that it af-
fords accommodation for vessels of large size
loading and unloading, and thereby saves the
expense and trouble of boating from Cromarty.
This is now the most frequentedand centra] port
of Easterand Wester Ross. A horse fair has re-
cently been established annually, and the small
sea-port is in a thriving condition. Its popu-
lation in 1821 was about 500.
INVERGOWRIE, a village in the parish
of LifF, in the Carse of Gowrie. It lies on
the banks of the Tay, twenty mfles east from
Perth and two west from Dundee.
INVERKEILOR, a parish in Forfar-
shire, presenting a front of five miles to the
sea at Lunan Bay, and stretching inland for six
miles. Its average breadth is only two and a
half miles. Lunan Water bounds it entirely
on the north side, separating it from the pa-
rishes of Kinnel and Lunan. On the west it
is bounded by Kirkden, and on the south by
St. Vigeans. The surface is for the greater
part flat, and of great beauty and fertility, be-
ing embellished with plantations, and the
land improved and enclosed. The Keflor,
a rivulet, runs through the parish to the sea,
and near its embouchure is the fishing village
of Ethiehaven. The coast is flat and sandy.
There are several fine seats in the district, in
particular, Ethie House, .Anniston, Kinblyth-
mont, and Law ton. There are also a variety
of hamlets. The parish church stands inland on
the Lunan Water. At the mouth of the Lu-
nan, on an eminence, stands an old venerable
ruin, named Redcastle, which is said to have
been built by William the Lion, and used as a
royal hunting seat. In front of it, in the sea,
is a small island called Redcastle island
INVERKEITHING.
683
About a mile from Ethie House, eastward,
nigh the sea, stand the remains of a religious
house, called St. Murdoch's chapel, at one
time a cell of Aberbrothock. The promon-
tory of the Redhead lies a short way to the
south Population in 1821, 1785.
INVERKEITHING, a parish in the
south-western part of the county of Fife, lying
on the north shore of the Firth of Forth. A
portion juts, as a peninsulated promontory, in-
to the firth, west from which a part lies along
the sea-shore. East from the promontory an
equally large part stretches inland. The pa-
rish of Dunfermline encompasses the district
on the north and west, and Dalgetty bounds it
on the east. With the exception of the above
hilly promontory, nearly the whole territory
consists of the same fine undulating fertile
fields which have been noticed in characterising
the parish of Dunfermline. The island of
Inch Garvie, in the gut betwixt North and
and South Queensferry, is esteemed a portion
of the parish. The small village of North
Queensferry is noticed under its appropriate
head. The coast to the westward of this little
sea-port is generally wild and moorish, and is
distinguished by scarcely any object save the
dreary tower called Rosyth Castle. This is a
huge square turret, situated close by the sea,
the waves of which encompass it at high wa-
ter. There is something impressive, and even
august, in the appearance of this ancient forta-
lice, deserted as it is in these its days of ruin
and decay by every thing but the wild sea-bird
and the timid sheep. It was in its days of
pride the seat of that branch of the Stuart
family from which Oliver Cromwell was de-
scended, the posterity, namely, of Sir James
Stuart, uncle to King Robert II. There is a
tradition that, as the Protector's grandmother
was a daughter of the laird of Rosyth, and
had been born in the castle, he visited it when
encamped in the neighbourhood. It is also
asserted that Queen Mary at one time resided
in the castle ; which is not improbable, sinee
her arms and initials are still discernible over
the gate giving entry to the court-yard. On a
stone in the south side of the tower, near the
ground, is the following quaint inscription :
In dew tym drau yis cord ye bell to clink,
Quhais mery voic varnis to meat and drink.»
* In due time, draw this cord, the bell to clink,
Whose merry voice warns to meat and drink.
The cord of the dinner-bell must have hung at
this place, and the couplet may be accept-
ed as a specimen of the poetry of the four-
teenth century. Rosyth Castle is now the
property of the Earl of Hopetoun. From
this part of the coast to the ancient and most
interesting town of Dunfermline, the distance
is about three miles. The promontory, above
alluded to, is called the Cruicks, and belongs
to the burgh of Inverkeithing. It is of some
historical interest. During the reign of Alex-
ander III. when Scotland was in a very pros-
perous condition and enjoyed much commerce
with the continental countries, a project was
formed by some wealthy Jews to establish a
sort of New Jerusalem upon this piece of
ground, which should become in some measure
an emporium of commerce, and be a city of
refuge and a rallying point to their wandering
nation. They proposed to fortify it, which
could have been very easily done, and the bays
on each side were to have formed the harbours.
The project was, however, given up, probably
on account of some jealous act of interference
on the part of the government. The Cruicks
are further remarkable as the place where Oli-
ver Cromwell first encamped on crossing the
Forth, July 17, 1651. The bay between the
promontory and Rosyth Castle is called St.
Margaret's Hope, on account of Margaret, the
Saxon princess, afterwards consort to Malcolm
Canmore, having here been driven ashore by a
storm in her flight from England, immediately
after the Norman conquest. The bay to the
east of the Cruicks is much deeper, and serves
as the harbour of the town of Inverkeithing.
In the neighbourhood of the Cruicks on which
the forces of Cromwell landed, and on the north
of the town, is the scene of a battle between
the English parliamentary army and that of the
Scottish loyalists, in which the latter were de-
feated and almost cut off. One of the Scot-
tish generals, Holbom, is supposed by histo-
rians to have betrayed his trust ; and the peo«
pie have a strange story about his standing on
the East Ness, and inviting the English across
the water by a trumpet. But the other gene-
ral, whose name was Brown, displayed a high
degree of fidelity and personal valour, and died
soon after of grief for his defeat. A rill tra-
versing the valley when the conflict took place,
called the Pinkerton Burn, is said to have run.'
red with blood for three days in consequence of
the slaughter, which, according to all accounts,
584
IN V E RKEITHING.
was prodigious. In the picturesque language
of the old people of Inverkeithing, the plain
was " like a hairst-field with corpses ;" that is,
a field thickly strewed with newly cut sheaves
of grain. The chief of the clan Maclean
here lost six sons, each of whom came up
successively to defend him, and was succes-
sively cut down. Such memorabilia give a
striking idea of the military character of the
republican soldiery, and of the animosity which
prevailed between them and the northern pres-
byterians.
Inverkeithing, a royal burgh, the capital of
the above parish, and a town of the highest
antiquity, occupies an agreeable site at the
inner side of the above noticed bay of the Firth
of Forth, at the distance of thirteen miles from
Kirkcaldy, twenty-eight from Stirling, four
from Dunfermline, and about fourteen from
Edinburgh. It stands on the brow and face
of a rising ground which has an acclivity from
the margin of the bay, and consists of one
main street of considerable length, with diverg-
ing lanes and thoroughfares, and a number of
houses skirting the harbour. The latter are
mostly modern in the neat villa style, and in
the town the houses are in general taller, and
more ancient and dignified than is the case
with most burghs. The first existing charter
of Inverkeithing is one from William the Lion,
confirming one of earlier but unknown date,
and in virtue of this grant the burgh was en-
dowed with a jurisdiction over the adjacent
country to an extent of at least twenty miles
each way. Within these bounds the magis-
trates had the power of pit and gallows, and
a right of levying customs. In some instances
the latter privilege still prevails ; the burgh
receiving customs at the Tulliebole and Kin-
ross markets, and from all that crosses at the
North Queensferry. It is not long since se-
veral of the last-erected burghs within this
wide jurisdiction bought up the burdens thus
imposed upon them. The burgh received a
confirmatory writ from James VI. in 1598.
The civic government is exercised by a pro-
vost and high sheriff, two bailies, a dean of
guild, and treasurer, annually elected by the
councillors and deacons of the trades. The
number of councillors is unlimited, and after
being once elected, they hold the office for
life. The ancient family of the Hendersons
of Fordel (chiefs of the clan Henderson) hold,
by a grant from Queen Mary and King Henry
Darnley, the right to the office of hereditary
provost and sheriff; but though claimed by
them, and particularly by the late Sir John
Henderson, it was never exercised.* Inver-
keithing is said to have been in early times the
residence of many noble families, and even of
royalty itself. David the First is known cer-
tainly to have had a minor palace here ; and
the people yet point out an antique tenement
which they affirm to have been the abode of
Queen Annabella Drummond, the consort of
Robert III., and mother of the illustrious
James I. This ancient palace is thus noticed
in the Picture of Scotland. " It is situated
on the east side of the main street, in a line
with the rest of the houses, being a building
of three storeys, the lowest of which, accord-
ing to an old fashion, is a series of vaults. It
is of the strongest architecture of the fourteenth
century, and seems to have been calculated for
defence as well as convenience. The com-
mon people usually call it " the inn," which
seems to indicate that it was at one period of
its existence used as a house of public enter-
tainment. It confers upon the people who live
in it the privilege of being exempted from the
restrictions imposed by the five incorporations
of the town ; and an unfree joiner at this mo-
ment exercises his trade in one of its apart-
ments, to the great indignation of his fellow-
citizens. The common tradition regarding the
Palace is, that it was built for a repudiated
queen, who wished, in her place of banishment,
still to see the towers of Edinburgh Castle,
which contained the person of her cruel but
beloved husband. This story, however, though
justified by the circumstance that it is possible
here to see the distant spires of the capital,
and though it be by far the most pleasing ver-
sion of the matter, is not exactly true. Queen
Annabella is affirmed, upon better evidence, to
have adopted this place of residence during the
periods when her consort was engaged in war,
or when she desired the pleasures of sea-bath-
ing. By Robert III.'s charter to the burgh,
the magistrates were bound to pay her a hun-
dred shillings every year at the Feast of Pen-
tecost. She died at Inverkeithing in 1403,
* It may be worth mentioning that, in the riding of
the Scottish parliament, the provost of Inverkeithing
always rode next to the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, in
consideration of the contiguity of their jurisdictions,
which marched with each other in the middle of the Firth
of Forth.
INVERKE1 THING.
585
and was buried at Dunfermline- Connected
with this homely palace, there is an extensive
garden, stretching down towards the bay. It
is said that the house was provided with one
of those ancient conveniences which are now
known by the appellation, subterraneous pas-
sages, and that it passed down below the gar-
den and under the basin of the bay, over to
the Ness or promontory on the other side, a
distance of about a mile. There yet exists a
6eries of vaults in the garden, resembling the
cloisters of an ancient monastery ; and it is not
long since the foundations of a building called
the chapel were eradicated from the adjacent
ground. A portion of the garden surrounding
the site of this building is composed of blacker
earth than the rest, and occasionally casts up
fragments of human bones, having apparently
been used as a burying ground. It is altoge-
ther probable that the palace was only an ap-
pendage to one of the numerous religious
buildings known to have existed in Inver-
kei thing before the Reformation." Inverkei-
thing was honoured by being the place of
meeting of the Court of the Four Burghs,
{quatuor burgorumj authorized by James
III. to form a set of mercantile regula-
tions ; and before Edinburgh was appoint-
ed, it was the town where the conven-
tion of royal burghs was regularly held.
The burgh is provided with a neat town-house,
containing a jail, with apartments for courts.
Besides the established church, an elegant mo-
dern fabric, which replaced one of a very an-
cient date, there is a meeting-house of the
United Associate Synod. There is a public
grammar school for the languages, mathema-
tics, &c. with some private places of tuition.
The architecture of the public school is chaste
and elegant, combining neatness with internal
accommodation. There are subscription lib-
raries, and several societies for the propaga-
tion of Christianity in the town. In recent
times, the burgh has kept pace with the refine-
ments of the age, and its general aspect is
much improved. There are no manufactures
carried on in the town, but there are, in the
immediate neighbourhood, three public works
on an extensive scale, namely, a distillery, a
magnesia work, and some salt pans. The
quays around the harbour generally exhibit a
bustling appearance, in consequence of the large
shipments of coal which take place here, and
which form the chief traffic. For the con-
venience of the exporters, there are railways
laid from the pits to the harbour. The port
of Inverkeithing is, by authority, a place for
vessels riding quarantine, and for that purpose
government stations here a body of officers,
with a lazaretto on shore. Being on the
line of the great thoroughfare by Queens-
ferry to the north, the town receives its pro-
portion of the general traffic through the
county. Five fairs may be held annually.—
Population of the burgh in 1821, about 1400,
and including the parish, 2512.
IN VE RKEITHN Y, a parish in the south-
eastern comer of Banffshire, lying on the right
or south bank of the Deveron, along which it
extends about six miles, and measuring from
one to four miles in breadth. Marnoch bounds
it on the north, Turriff and Auchterless on the
east, Forgue on the south, and Rothiemay on
the west. The district is chiefly hilly and
pastoral. There are plantations on the banks
of the Deveron, on the side of which river, at
the embouchure of the rivulet Keithny, stands
the parish kirk and hamlet. — Population in
1821, 577.
INVERKIRKAG, a small river in Su-
therlandshire, parish of Assynt, flowing from
Loch Assynt to the arm of the sea called
Loch Inver.
INVERLOCHY, or INNERLOCHY,
a place in the West Highlands, in the parish
of Kilmanivaig, Inverness-shire, on the east
shore of Loch Eil, near the spot where that
arm of the sea is joined by the Caledonian
Canal. Fort- William is contiguous on the
south. There is no end to the legendary his-
tory of Inverlochy, which has declared that it
was the site of a town or rather city, once the
greatest in Scotland, and that here King Acha-
ius signed a treaty with Charlemagne. Irt
corroboration of theories of this nature, the
pavement of certain streets is ostentatious-
ly pointed out, thus resting its character for
ancient grandeur on the same basis as that of
the equally fabulous Beregonium. If there
ever was a town here, it has been gone for
many ages, and there only remains, in lone
magnificence, a huge quadrangular edifice,
styled Inverlochy Castle, which has outlived
all tradition regarding its origin. The build-
ing, which forms a court, has round towers at
the angles, of the most massive proportions,
the whole fabric covering a space of 160O
yards. It had once wet ditches around it, and
4 F
53G
INVERNESS-SHIRE.
must have been one of the strongest castles of
the kind in Scotland. Inverlochy gives its
name to one of the most brilliant victories of
the Marquis of Montrose, which took place
in February, 1645. The Campbells lay in
full strength on the plain, in front of Inver-
lochy Castle, and the Marquis came suddenly
upon them, in the morning, through Glen
Nevis, in the vicinity, after having, for that
purpose, performed some marches of incredi-
ble rapidity. Argyle, at the commencement
of the battle, retired on board a galley, which
lay in Loch Eil ; in consequence of which im-
prudent conduct, the impetuous attack of the
royal troops was completely successful over the
dispirited Campbells, fifteen hundred of whom
were slain.
INVERNESS-SHIRE, a very extensive
rounty in the north of Scotland, stretching
completely across the mainland, and possessing
a variety of islands. On the north it is bound-
ed by the counties of Ross and Cromarty, on
the east by the Moray Firth, Nairnshire, and
Morayshire, on the south by Aberdeenshire,
Perthshire, and Argyleshire, and on the west
by the Atlantic ocean. Its inland boundaries
are intricate, on account of the strange inter-
mixture of counties so common in the north.
It comprehends a variety of districts of local
importance, as Badenoch in its south part,
Lochaber on the south-west, Moidart on the
west, Glenelg on the north-west, Glengarry in
the central part, and others of less eminence.
A series of islands on the west coast, forming
part of the Hebrides, are politically attached
to it, as Skye, Harris, North and South Uist,
Benbecula, Earra, Eigg, Eriskay, and Ber-
nera, besides a number of islets. The coun-
ty, excluding the isles, extends in length,
from the point of Arisaig on the west to
the point of Ardersier on the east, about
ninety-two miles, and its greatest breadth is
nearly fifty miles. The surface of this large
county exhibits a wild and irregular variety of
huge mountains, some of which belong to the
Grampian series, low green hills, vales of all
dimensions, rivers and rivulets, lakes, pathless
pastoral wildernesses, arable fields, and on the
west coast, a number of deep indentations of
the sea. One of the most remarkable circum-
stances attending the county is, that it is di-
vided almost into two equal parts by a valley
which runs from north-east to south-west.
This valley, which has already been noticed
under the heads of Canal (Caledonian) and
Albany, by the title of the Great Glen of
Caledonia, is a huge natural strath or hollow,
proceeding through the county from the Moray
Firth to Loch Eil in a direct south-westerly
course. It has been considered as dividing the
Highlands into two portions, of which the
northern is the larger ; and it may be regard-
ed as the northern termination of that immense
tract of mountainous country which begins at
Dunkeld. It is, in truth, nothing else than a
long and deep fissure between the chains of
enormous mountains which here run from south-
west to north-east. The valley, In the greater
part of its length, is naturally filled with water,
or a long chain of lakes succeeding each other,
and which rise but a little above the lerel of
the sea ; a circumstance which suggested the
propriety of forming the whole, with the addi-
tion of artificial cuts, into the Caledonian Ca-
nal. For the exact dimensions, and an idea of
the utility of this great national undertaking,
we again refer to the article Canal (Cale-
donian.) The following notes regarding this
" great job," as Mr. Joseph Hume unjustly
calls it, are by a correspondent : — " The canal
(as well as the Highland roads and bridges,)
was begun for the benefit of the country — the
improvement of the Highlands. It was the
alarming extent to which the spirit of emigra-
tion had grown, that first suggested the expe.
diency of constructing these public works,
ivhich, by affording employment to part of the
population, and circulating capital, might oper-
ate as a check upon the evil. A permanently
beneficial change was effected in the manners
and habits of the uncultivated Highlands by
the introduction of useful arts and industry.
For eighteen years from the commencement of
the works, the proportion of strangers to na-
tives employed was as I to 74. No less than
200 cargoes of birch and fir are annually ex-
ported from the estates along the Glen. In
the event of a war breaking out, it is almost
needless to point out the importance of the se-
curity that would be afforded to a great portion
of our American and Baltic trade, as well as
to the numerous traders between the east and
west coasts and Ireland, rendering, in fact, the
defence of a line of coast extending in length
upwards of 300 miles totally unnecessary."
Besides Lochs Ness, Oich, Lochy, and Eil,
which lie in this vale, there are others of great-
er or less magnitude scattered over the district,
INVERNESS-SHIRE.
587
as Lochs Laggan, Treag, and Ericht in the
south, Loch Ashley and some others in the
north-eastern part, Lochs Affarie, Benevian,
Clunie and others in the northern quarter, and
in the west Lochs Quoich, Arkaig, and Shiel.
The chief salt water lakes are Lochs Moidart,
Morror, Nevish, Hourn, and Beauly. The
principal river is the Ness, which flows from
Loch Ness to the Moray Firth. The next is
the Spey, which, though a much larger river
in its lower parts, is about the same size while
running through the shire. The smaller livers
are the Beauly, the Foyers, the Garry, the
Coiltie, the Glass, the Morriston, the Enneric,
the Kinnie, and some others, and the whole
abound in trout and salmon. On the Foyers
is a celebrated waterfall. It would be vain to
attempt a particular description of the scenery to
be met with in this great county ; consisting, as
already mentioned, of so many mountains, which,
especially towards the west, are piled above each
other in horrid magnificence ; and between all
of which are deep glens, of a boundless variety
of formation, each of which has its stream and
its lake, and many of which abound in woods.
One of the mountains is nevertheless too con-
spicuous to be passed over in silence. We
refer to the celebrated Ben Nevis, which is the
highest mountain in the island of Great Britain.
This remarkable pile stands to the south-east of
Fort William, near the shore of an arm of the
sea, and rises to the height of 4370 feet. There
is also a range of huge lofty dark mountains
further to the north in Badenoch and Lochaber.
The principal natural or unaccountable curiosi-
ties in the shire are the parallel roads of Glenroy,
already noticed in their proper places. The
north-eastern part of the county of Inverness,
adjacent to the Moray Firth, is to be considered
as a part of the Lowlands of Scotland, all the
remainder forming part of the Highlands. The
proportion of land in cultivation in the whole
ehire, is supposed to amount to only eight parts
in the hundred, the rest consisting of pasture
and heath. Those districts in cultivation, along
with those in the course of gradual adaptation
to purposes of husbandry, are in the north-east
or Lowland quarter, where there are to be seen
many fine fields yielding good crops of wheat,
barley, and oats. Potatoes are produced in
great abundance. In the district in the vicinity
of the Spey, near Castle Grant, a very improv-
ed system of cultivation has for many years been
introduced. The improvements in this direc-
tion and in other places have been vastly assist-
ed by the laying down of new roads, partly by
government and partly by the county. In this
shire, as in other counties in the north, the
" weeding out" of the aboriginal poorer classes
or small farmers by the landlords has thinned
the population of the district, expatriated thou-
sands, and reduced to the lowest conceivable
depths of human suffering those who have been
permitted to remain in rude hamlets on the sea-
shore. In thus clearing the lands, farmers with
capital and intelligence from the south of Scot-
land have been introduced to the occupancy of
farms sometimes twenty and more miles in ex
tent, if for pasture, and of the ordinary size if
for agriculture. These very active men, who
are generally assisted by servants, male and
female, from their own country, have greatly
improved the rental of Inverness-shire, and
now export to England and the Lowlands num-
erous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and car-
goes of grain. By exertions of this nature the
rental of the county, as assessed for the pro-
perty-tax in 1814, was L.152,243, of which
the proportion under the fetters of entail was
believed to be L. 77,794, a circumstance which
acts as a serious drawback on improvement.
It is told as an instance of the change of ren-
tals in modern times, that when Macdonnell of
Glengarry died in 1788 his estate was not worth
more than L.800 per annum ; the same lands
now yield from L.6000 to L.7000 a-year.
There have been considerable plantations made,
and the fir-woods of Glenmore and Strathspey
are supposed to be far more extensive than
all the natural woods in Scotland. The
mountains and forests of Inverness-shire are
inhabited by numerous herds of red and roe
deer, w r hich here roam in safety, in recesses
almost impenetrable to man. The hare and
other small animals of the chase, or objects for
the pursuit of the sportsman, are also abundant.
Limestone, approaching to the hardness of mar-
ble, is found in every district of the county.
Many of the hills are composed of a fine Ted-
dish granite. Some of the more valuable
metals have been discovered, but have never
been wrought with success. This comity is
singularly destitute of towns, the only one it
possesses being Inverness ; but it has a great
variety of small villages, and isolated habita-
tions. Fort George on the Moray Firth,
Fort Augustus at the south-west end of Lock
Ness, and Fort William on Loch Eil, are
INVERNESS.
within the county, the three forming a line of
fortresses which were erected to overawe
the Highlands, since the expulsion of the house
of Stuart. They are now entirely useless,
though kept in a good state of repair, and an-
swering as barracks for a few soldiers. The
Gaelic language is still common in the northern,
western, and southern districts, almost to the
total exclusion of English, but the latter is
spoken by all the upper and educated classes,
and by the inhabitants of Inverness. Inver-
ness-shire is the country of the clans Macpher-
son, Cameron, Grant, Fraser, Mackintosh, Mac-
donald, and others. The Frasers, who are ex-
ceedingly numerous in Inverness, were originally
from the south, and the first of the name who
got a possession in the north was a relative of the
great Sir Simon Fraser of Tweddale, who ac-
quired the estate of Lovat, in 1306, by mar-
riage with the heiress of that property. The
county, in common with other parts of the
Highlands, has been much indebted for a know-
ledge of letters and Christianity to the patriotic
exertions of different bodies, associated for the
purpose of stationing schools, and disseminating
books of piety. Regular places of worship
to about the number of twelve, have likewise,
by the same means, been instituted in locali-
ties wanting such establishments. The shire
comprises thirty-seven parishes, but a portion of a
number of these extend into the adjoining coun-
ties — Population in 1821 , 42,304 males, 47,853
females, total 90,157.
Table of heights in Invemess-shire.
Feet above the sea.
Craig- Phadric, . 1150.
Mealfourvonie . 3600.
Scarsough . . 3412.
Ben Nevis . . 4370.
Inverness, a parish in the above county, ex-
tending eight miles in length by six in breadth,
bounded on the north by the upper part of the
Moray Firth, on the east by Petty, on the
south by Dores and on the west by Kirkhill.
The loch and river Ness intersect it. The
surface is uneven and varied, and the land is
now finely cultivated, planted, enclosed, and
otherwise improved.
Inverness, a royal burgh, the capital of
the above county and parish, a sea- port, the
seat of a presbytery in the synod of Moray, the
chief town of the Highlands of Scotland, and
the cynosure of a wide district of country in the
north, occupies an exceedingly advantageous
and delightful situation in the low eastern part
of the shire, chiefly upon the right bank of the
river Ness, near the place where that river falls
into the Moray Firth, at the distance of 156 \
miles north of Edinburgh, 88 1 west of Elgin,
and 118* west-north-west of Aberdeen. In-
verness is a town of the most remote antiquity,
and if we believe Boethius and Buchanan, it
may be represented as being founded by Even-
us II., the fourteenth king of Scotland, who
is said to have died sixty years before the
birth of Christ. "Were this origin correct,
which it cannot be, seeing that no such king
ever existed, — the date would be earlier than
has been assigned to any other town in Scot-
land, being several years prior to the invasion
of Britain by Julius Caesar, and about seven
hundred years before the building of Edin-
burgh castle. Divesting the town of such an
apocryphal origin, it may, nevertheless, be re-
marked, that from the numerous remains of a
high antiquity existing around it, the district
appears clearly to have been numerously peo-
pled at a very remote age. Within a few miles
there are several British hill forts, namely,
at Craig Phadric, Dunarduil, Dunsgrebin,
Knockfarril, Dunevan, Castle Finlay, and
Cromal, a Roman fort at Bona, a number of
sepulchral cairns, and many druidical circles.
In a tract printed 1606, named, " A brief de-
scription of Scotland," Inverness is called " the
most anciente town ;" and so early as the reign
of David I. who died in 1153, it is designated,
in a legislative enactment, as one of the capital
places in Scotland, — " Loca capitalia per to-
tum regnum." Inverness and the territory in
its vicinity, indeed, form one of the favourite
debatable grounds of Scottish antiquaries, and
there is no end to the conflicting evidence re-
garding its early settlement. It has been ad-
vanced by some writers, that the town is the
site of a Roman fort planted by Lollius Urbi-
cus, about the year 140, which station was
named Pteroton, and was at the time a settle-
ment of the aboriginal tribes. Others assert
that Brough-head in Morayshire was the true
Pteroton ; and that, although Inverness, or the
river Ness, was the ultimate western boundary by
land of the Roman territory, while the conquer-
ing people were in the northern part of the island,
the only station they had in this quarter was at
Bona, at the eastern extremity of Loch Ness,
under the name of Bonatia. Whichsoever of
these theories be correct, it is at least cer-
INVERNESS.
560
tain, that the Romans were obliged to with-
draw from this district in the year 170.
Among other traditions related of the early
state of the country here, it is told in Inver-
ness, as an authentic legend, that most of the
space, now an arm of the sea, extending from
Fort George to Beauly, was once dry land,
through which the rivers Farrar, or Beauly,
and Ness flowed, uniting their currents at the
present estuary of the Ness. This curious
tradition derives confirmation from the sepul-
chral cairns to be seen at low water, far within
flood-mark in the Beauly Firth, in some of
which, urns, logs of oak, and pieces of wrought
iron, have recently been found. The whole
of the Firth above Fort George is remarkably
shallow, a circumstance also countenancing the
tradition. We may now proceed to detail a
6eries of historical incidents connected with
this ancient town, drawn from authentic sources.
The earliest traces to be found of Inverness in
any thing like credible or authentic history, re-
present it as having been a Pictish capital, and
as having lost that distinction in the union of
the crowns of the Picts and Scots, in the per-
son of Kenneth, in the year 843. Buchanan
and Boethius unite in relating that King Dun-
can was murdered in the castle of Inverness,
by Macbeth, 1039, — " Per occasionem regem
septimum jam annum regnantem, ad Enverness
(alii dicunt Bothgofuane,) obtruncat." Boe-
thius, lib. 12. — " Regem, opportunara insidiis
ad Ennernessam nactus, septimum jam regnan-
tem annum, obtruncat." Buchanan, lib. 7.
Fordun speaks of the transaction as having ta-
ken place near Elgin, — " Latenter apud Both-
gofuane vulneratus ad mortem, et apud Elgin
delatus occubuit." Shakespeare has followed
Boethius and Buchanan in placing the murder
at Inverness ; and the poet has done justice to
the agreeable situation of the castle in which he
supposed the assassination to have occurred :
" This castle hath a pleasant seat; the air
Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself
Unto our gentle senses."
This edifice, which in reality was the property
and residence of the famed thane of Lochaber,
but which, we fear, has no real pretensions to
this historical and poetic honour, stood on an
eminence to the east of the town, a spot well
worthy of the above flattering description. It
is now generally^allowed that the murder must
have taken place at Bothgowan, (a place now
unknown,) near Elgin. When Malcolm III.,
or Canmore, overthrew the murderer of his fa-
ther, in detestation of the crime, he razed the
castle of Macbeth, which stood on the hill
called " the Crown," and built another fortress
to serve as a royal residence, choosing for its
site a lofty eminence, overhanging the town
on the south. This latter edifice continued
for several centuries to be a royal fortress,
occasionally affording accommodation to the
kings of Scotland, when they happened to visit
this remote part of their dominions. David I.
raised the town to the condition of a royal
burgh ; and in the reign of that beneficent mo-
narch, it was made the appointed seat of a she-
riff, whose authority extended over the wholo
of Scotland north of the Grampians. About
the middle of the twelfth century, the name of
Mackintosh originated at Inverness, in this man-
ner. Shaw Macduff, son of Duncan, the sixth
earl of Fife, or descendant of king Duff, who
was killed at Forres, having come north in the
expedition of Malcolm IV. and settled on lands
acquired by his services, assumed the surname
of Mackintosh — son of the thane, as significant
of his high birth. He was, at the same time,
appointed hereditary governor of the castle of
Inverness ; and he and his descendants have
usually been styled the chiefs of the clan Chat-
tan. In 1214, William the Lion granted four
charters to the burgh, containing many exemp-
tions from burdens, a variety of privileges as to
manufactures, and the appointment of a regular
magistracy. In 1217, another charter was
given by Alexander II. In 1229, during the
reign of this sovereign, the town was plundered
and destroyed by fire, by a turbulent and potent
Highland ruffian, named Gillespick M' Scour-
lane, who levied war against the king, and be-
sides burning the town, spoiled the neighbour-
ing crown lands, and put all to death who would
not swear allegiance to him. Being defeated
and taken, he was beheaded by command of
the king's justiciary. It is shrewdly conjec-
tured, that this melancholy incident was the
moving cause of the town being built on a bet-
ter site, and in a more regular manner. A mo-
nastery of friars was founded in the town by
Alexander II. 1233. The site and garden of
this religious house became, at the Reforma-
tion, the parish minister's glebe, and the site
of its church became the burial-ground, called
now "the Grey Friars' burial-ground." In
1237, Alexander II. gave the town a charter
of additional lands for its support. Edward L
590
INVERNESS.
king of England, in Lis progress through Scot-
land, advanced to Kildrummy near Nairn, and
being deterred from proceeding in person far-
ther, by the wild aspect of the country, he re-
mained in Kinloss Abbey twenty days, while
his forces were reducing the castles of Inver-
ness, Urquhart, and other places. In 1330, the
castle of Inverness surrendered to Robert Bruce,
who besieged it in person, assisted by Sir James
Fraser. In the year 1369, David II. granted
a charter to the burgesses and community, con-
firming certain rights to lands. About this pe-
riod, and for many years after, the shire and
town were frequently disturbed and injured by
the rancorous quarrels and conflicts between the
clans Chattan and Cameron, and other septs,
as well as the inroads of the lords of the Isles.
In 1400 a memorable incident of this kind oc-
curred. Donald, lord of the Isles, having ap-
proached the town with a body of men, threat-
ened to burn it unless ransomed at a large price.
The provost of the burgh, with an ingenuity
which cannot be enough commended, pretend-
ed to listen to the terms offered, sent a large
quantity of spirits as a present to the chief, who
had encamped with his men on the north side
of Kessock Ferry. The islanders being high-
ly delighted with the whisky, soon became in-
toxicated, and the provost with his courageous
burgesses, watching the event, now fell upon
them with sword in hand, and, as tradition says,
put the whole to an indiscriminate slaughter,
excepting one person, whose descendants, from
the manner of his escape, still retain the name
of Loban. A number of cairns are still seen
on the field of battle, pointing out the reposi-
tories of the slain. In 1427, James I. pro-
ceeded to the north, to repress the turbulence
of the Highland chiefs. He held a parliament
in the castle, to which he summoned all the
northern chiefs and barons. He ordered three
men of rank to be executed, and detained Al-
exander, lord of the Isles, in custody for a year.
About twelvemonths after the liberation of this
person, he returned to Inverness with an army,
and pretending friendship, was hospitably treat-
ed; but, throwing off the mask, he gave the town
to be sacked and burnt by his men, to avenge
himself for the treatment he received here from
the king. Luckily, his attempts to secure the
castle were frustrated by its keeper, Malcolm,
chief of clan Chattan. The readers of history
will remember, that Alexander was subse-
quently defeated in Lochaber, and being brought
prisoner to Edinburgh, was compelled to beg
his life on his knees, before the whole court,
at the altar of the chapel of Holyrood. The
humiliation of this chieftain did not prevent his
successor, Donald, lord of the Isles, from vi-
siting the town with his retainers, in 1455,
taking the castle by surprise, and plundering
and burning the town. In 1464 James III.
visited Inverness, and gave it a new charter ;
and it would appear, from the dating of a royal
charter given to Mackay of Strathnaver, that
James IV. was also at Inverness, in the year
1499. In 1514 the previous charters of the
burgh were confirmed by James V. In 1555,
Mary of Guise, the queen regent, visited the
town, and held a convention of estates, and
courts for the punishment of caterans and other
malefactors. . The Earl of Caithness was im-
prisoned by her in the castle, for protecting
robbers. A few years afterwards, in Septem-
ber 1562, Inverness was honoured with a visit
from Queen Mary, accompanied by the Earl
of Murray. Being refused admission into the
castle by its governor, a minion of the Earl of
Huntly, she was forced to reside in the town,
in a private house, still standing in Bridge
Street. Her troops being soon joined by the
Frasers, Mackintoshes, and Monroes, they re-
duced the fortress, and hanged the lieutenant,
its keeper. Huntly himself having levied war
against the queen, was soon afterwards defeated
and killed, in a fair battle. The queen's court,
while in the town, was attended by most of the
Highland chiefs ; and she kept a small squa-
dron in the harbour, to ensure her safety. In
1565, the regent Murray ordered the chief of
the clan Gunn to be executed in the town, and
we are told by Sir Robert Gordon, that the
only crime he had been guilty of, was taking
the " crown of the causeway" from the regent.
A year afterwards, Murray was invested with
the hereditary sheriffship, which had been for-
feited by Huntly. James VI. tried various
moderate measures to quell the disturbances
in this part of the Highlands, and was a distin-
guished friend of the burgh, to which he grant-
ed a new charter, commonly called the Great
Charter, in 1591, establishing and extending
its privileges. In 1625, Duncan Forbes, the
provost of, and a merchant in the burgh, bought
the estate of Culloden from the laird of Mack-
intosh, which is still in the family. News
having been received in Inverness, in 1644, of
a body of Irish having landed on the west coast
INVERNESS.
591
in aid of the Marquis of Montrose, the whole
of the inhabitants, being of the parliament
party, were ordered to convene in their best
weapons, and the castle and garrison were
strengthened. Next year, Urry, the parlia-
mentary general, being pressed by Montrose,
retired to the castle, which was unsuccessfully
besieged by the troops of the Marquis. In
1649, the friends of the king were more fortu-
nate, Mackenzie of Pluscardine, and others,
with a body of men, taking the town and castle,
and razing the fortifications. The troubles of
Inverness, during the great civil war, terminat-
ed in 1651, by Cromwell taking possession of
the town in the name of the Commonwealth,
and building a citadel, the materials of which
were taken from the abbey of Kinloss, the mo-
nastery of Inverness, and the cathedral of For-
trose. For several years subsequently, a gar-
rison of English soldiers was maintained here,
being only withdrawn when a different policy
came into effect at the Restoration. In 1664,
Sir George Mackenzie, advocate, was appoint-
ed the town's lawyer, with a salary of twenty
merks Scots. It seems that, at the revolution
of 1 688, the inhabitants of Inverness were ex-
ceedingly disinclined to the establishment of
presbyterianism. A presbyterian being appoint-
ed in 1691, to the vacant parish church, the
magistrates, who favoured episcopacy, for some
time prevented his being placed. Duncan
Forbes of Culloden, (father of the celebrated
Lord President Forbes) a warm friend to the
constitution, attempted to force his way into the
church along with the new minister, on the
day fixed for placing him, but was driven back
from the doors, which were strongly guarded
by armed men. Upon this, the government
sent a regiment to the town, to support the
presbyterians. At this period the magistrates
were keen Jacobites, and took every means of
favouring the cause of the Stuarts. They put
the castle into the hands of this party, but it
was re-taken, and for this and other reasons,
the burgh was disfranchised, and the magi-
stracy was only restored by a poll election.
The civil war of 1745 brought the town once
more within the scope of military aggression.
Sir John Cope and the Earl of Loudon, in
succession, occupied the town and castle on be-
half of the government. Being, however, taken
in 1746, by Prince Charles Edward, the fortress
was destroyed by explosion, at the command of
that famed adventurer ; on which occasion,
it has been stated on good authority, that the
French officer of engineers, who lighted the
train, was blown into the air, and killed.
Prince Charles' troops departed from Inverness,
to meet those under the Duke of Cumberland,
and after their defeat at Culloden, the town
was entered by the army of the Duke, and here
thirty-six of Charles' men were executed. As
in many other cases, the Duke lived in the
same house and slept in the bed which the
Prince had previously occupied. The house
in which they lodged was that of Catherine
Duff, Lady Drummuir, the third below the
mason-lodge in Church Street. The apart-
ment in which the two princes successively
slept, is the back room on the first floor, look-
ing to the garden. This was the only house
at that time in Inverness, which contained a
sitting-room or parlour without a bed in it.
The property has descended to Mr. Duff of
Muirtown, who is Lady Drummuir's great-
grandson. Of the castle of Inverness, which
had been the theatre of so many interesting
events from the days of Malcolm Canmore,
only the wall of an exterior rampart remains,
while the place where it stood is so smooth as
to be used as a bowling green. The site has
lately been gifted by the proprietor, the Duke
of Gordon, to the town, for the erection of a
new court-house, jail, bridewell, &c. The si-
tuation is admirably adapted for the purpose,
and must cause these buildings, when erect-
ed, especially if in an appropriate taste, to
be highly ornamental to the town. The re-
mains of the fort which Oliver Cromwell built
at Inverness, and which was one of the four
such institutions erected by the Protector for
the subjugation of Scotland, are to be seen be-
low the town, at the place where the Ness joins
the sea. It was destroyed immediately after
the Restoration, at the desire of the Highland
chiefs, who had writhed under its influence
during the iron age of Cromwell. Its area is
now chiefly occupied by the peaceful shops of
a tribe of weavers. The revolution of man-
ners seems to have overtaken Inverness more
recently than the southern towns. It was not
till the Union of 1707, that the first regular
post to Edinburgh was established, and it was
not till 1 755, that letters were carried any other
way than by a man on foot. It is yet not
above thirty years since any measures were
taken for regularly cleaning the streets, which
therefore lay in a perpetual state of fearful
592
INVERNESS.
filth. The first coach ever eeen in or about
the town, was one brought by the Earl of Sea-
forth in 1715; when the country people, as
ignorant of the uses and arrangements of such
a vehicle as the remote Chinese, looked upon
the driver as the most important personage
connected with it, and accordingly made him
low obeisances in passing. We find that in
the year 1740 the magistrates advertised for
a saddler to settle in the burgh, and that it was
so late as 1778 that the common-shaped cart
was first used in the town, one of these vehi-
cles being introduced by subscription. About
the middle of the last century, the father of
the late Bailie Young flourished in Inverness.
He was a deacon of the weavers, and remark-
able for his early adoption of new fashions.
He was the first burgher who changed the blue
bonnet of the olden times for a hat, which
piece of dress had formerly been confined to
lairds and clergymen. This novelty excited
the ridicule of his fellow-citizens to an into-
lerable degree ; they were perpetually teasing
him with their congratulations upon such a
splendid accession to the dignity of his per-
sonal appearance ; his constant reply to their
observations was, " Well, after all, I am but
a mortal man." It is a common tradition at
Inverness, that, about eighty years since, a
shilling could have bought a leg of mutton, a
neck of veal, and a gallon of good ale. Ex-
cept in one house there was not a room in the
town without a bed — a usage, however, still
quite common in Scottish provincial towns.
Provost Phineas Macpherson, a late dignitary,
whose fine old Highland manners might have
ornamented a court, used to say that in those
days he lived with great hospitality and plenty,
sporting claret at his table, and yet never spent
more than seventy pounds Sterling a-year.
The vice of intemperate drinking is understood
to have been carried to a great height in Inver-
ness in these not very distant times. In the
work usually called Burt's Letters, the writer
gives a minute and animated account of the
hospitality of the house of Culloden, in the
days of the President's elder brother ; telling,
among other things, that the servants would
on no account permit a guest to walk to his
bed, considering that an insult to the laird;
every man had to sit till he became insensible,
and then they brought spokes and carried him
off, as in a sedan. Modernized and improved
as we find the manners and appearance of the
people of Inverness, a southern stranger on vi-
siting the town would still have the feeling of
being transplanted into a population quite dif-
ferent, in aspect and language, from any thing
to which he has hitherto been accustomed.
The women of the lower ranks walk the
streets, and even to church, the wives with-
out bonnets, and the maidens without caps ;
while the extreme simplicity of the rest of
their attire is quite consistent with this strange
and primeval fashion. The men of the same
condition, at least the peasantry, wear garments
of the coarsest material, as homespun blue
short coats, stockings of the species called in
Scotland rig-and-fur, and small blue bonnets ;
some have plaids, but all of their garments
display more or less of the Celtic fashion.
Few of the neighbouring peasantry, when ad-
dressed, are found to speak any thing but Erse.
In point of language, the people of Inverness,
laying the lower orders out of the question,
may almost be said to transcend those of all
other Scottish towns, the capital not excepted.
The common solution of this mystery is, that
they received a correct English pronunciation
from the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell ; but it
seems rather attributable to the simple circum-
stance that the people here do not learn En-
glish in their infancy through the medium of
broad Scotch, but make a direct transition from
Gaelic into pure English. In proportion as
the colloquial English used in Scotland comes
into use in the town, the tone of speaking will
be found to be proportionably lowered in quali-
ty. To turn from these particulars to a descrip-
tion of the town as it exists in the present day.
Inverness is now one of the finest towns of the
size in Scotland, consisting chiefly of four well
built streets, viz : Church Street, which may
be esteemed the High Street, East or Petty
Street, Castle Street, and Bridge Street.
From these there branch off several smaller
streets and lanes. There is also a suburb on
the left bank of the Ness. This river is here
of a very respectable breadth, and is crossed by
two bridges, one of stone and another of wood.
The stone bridge is the best public edifice con-
nected with the town, and consists of seven
arches. It was finished in the year 1681, at
an expense defrayed by voluntary contribu-
tions collected throughout the kingdom. The
thoroughfare of Bridge Street is led across the
river by this commodious bridge. The wooden
bridge is near the Moray Firth, and in the vi-
INVERNESS.
593
cinity are the quays, which are well construct-
ed, and will admit large vessels of 200 tons
burden. The harbour is very safe and spacious,
and vessels of 500 tons may ride in safety in
the firth. Not a mile from the town, nearly op-
posite the quay, on the west side, toward the
ferry, a small quay has been constructed, where
ships of a great draught of water may discharge
their cargoes. There is an excellent ferry at
Kessock, near Inverness ; and the present pro-
prietor, Sir William Fettes, has expended
about L. 10,000 in the erection of piers, an
inn, and offices. The few public buildings in
the town are of a respectable architecture ;
displaying, however, no striking points of beau-
ty. The established church, which gives its
name to the principal street, is a large plain
building; adjoining it is the Gaelic church,
and opposite to it the Episcopal cha-
pel, a neat building surmounted by a cupola.
The chapel of ease is also a handsome large
building, in New Street. The town-house
is a perfectly plain edifice nearly opposite
the head of Church Street ; attaehed to it
is the tolbooth, which has a handsome tower
and steeple, the top of which received a
severe twist from an earthquake in the year
1816. The rooms for the northern meetings,
assemblies, &c. at the top of Church Street,
are contained in an extensive and handsome
erection. The Athenaeum news-room is
opposite the Exchange, and to this and another
room of the same kind in the neighbourhood,
all strangers are politely welcomed. The In-
firmary, on the west bank of the Ness, forms a
prominent feature among the public buildings
of the town ; it consists of one large central
front, with four elegant pilasters, and two
wings, the whole enclosed in a spacious area
with iron palisades. The Academy, situated
in New Street, is an extensive erection, be-
hind which is a large pleasure-ground for the
recreation of the scholars. This institution
has long been a distinguished seminary for the
Highland youth, and is conducted upon a li-
beral scale. Its funds, besides a sum of L.70
paid annually by the town, consist of a capital
of above L.6000, upwards of one-third of which
was subscribed in sums of L.50 each at the
contested election for the office of Latin teach-
er in 1820. The town and neighbourhood
have so much progressed as to be able to
support two native weekly newspapers. Being
the seat of the sheriff of the county, the courts
of that functionary are held at stated periods.
A justice of peace court for small debts is held
on the first Wednesday of every month. The
government of the burgh is administered by a
provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, a trea-
surer, and fourteen councillors, four of whom
are from the trades. The burgh joins with
Nairn, Forres, and Fortrose, in nominating a
member of parliament ; and its annual revenue
amounts to about L.2300. Before the open-
ing up of the new views consequent on the
civil war of 1745, and the abolition of the
heritable jurisdictions, Inverness enjoyed a
considerable commerce. It exported great
quantities of malt and oat-meal, and enjoyed
an exclusive traffic in skins with the north of
Europe. Subsequently, the Highlanders of
the western districts directed their trade to
Greenock and Glasgow, and Inverness became
no longer the depot of Highland produce.
Latterly the trade has revived and increased.
About the year 1803, an intercourse was
opened up with London, and at present the
town has four regular traders or smacks in
communication with London ; three engaged
in trading with Liverpool, three with Leith,
and three with Aberdeen. Three steam-ves-
sels also ply betwixt Glasgow and Inverness,
by the Caledonian Canal; and during the
summer months a steam-vessel arrives and
departs weekly, in communication with Leith
or Edinburgh. The general shipping of
the port has altogether greatly increased. It
has at present 142 vessels, (38 of which be-
long to the town,) the aggregate burden of
which amounts to 7104 tons. In 1802, the
shore-dues produced only L 140 : in 1816
they were L.680. Part of the trade has been
transferred to the canal basin, but the dues are
yet about L.560. The increase of trade has
raised the value of property very considerably ;
of which an instance is found in the property
of Merkinch, situated betwixt the bridge and
the canal, which, twenty-five years ago, rent-
ed at from L.70 to L.80, and now lets for
L.600. In recent times, the establishment of
regular steam-vessels, sailing from the above
ports, has been of much service to the trade
and comfort of Inverness, which, from its
great distance from the low countries, is diffi-
cult of access by land, or, at least, a journey
thither in that way is so fatiguing and expen-
sive, that but for the new conveyances by water,
many who now visit it would never have thought
of doing so. Should nothing interfere to pre-
vent the increase and capabilities of steam-ves-
4g
594
INVERNESS.
sels, it may be anticipated that such convey-
ances for the transport of cattle, sheep, and
wool, to ports in England, will soon be esta-
blished here and elsewhere in the northern
counties. Stage coaches were long in reach-
ing this distant part of the empire. The first
that arrived in the town was one established
in 1806, which did not pay, and was soon
after abandoned. It was afterwards reinstated
on the Highland road, and has proved no bad
speculation. It alternates between Inverness
and Perth three times a-week. No mail coach
came to the town for some years after that event ;
and it was only in 1819, that, in consequence of
the earnest solicitations of the gentlemen of
Ross and Sutherland, that important instrument
of civilization was conducted further northward
— to Thurso, namely, the northern extremity of
Great Britain, eight hundred and two miles
from the capital, and one thousand and eighty-
two from Falmouth, the opposite extremity of
the island ; throughout which extent of coun-
try there is now a continuous mail-coaeh
road. There are several annual fairs held
here, the chief of which is a great sheep
and wool market, held on the first Tuesday
after the third Wednesday of June. At this
fair the whole fleeces and sheep of the north
are generally sold, or contracted for in the way
of consignment. No less than 100,000 stones
of wool, and 150,000 sheep are yearly disposed
of. The market is attended by the Dumfries-
shire and other Lowland sheep-dealers, and by
wool- staplers from Huddersfield. The only
manufactures of the town are some hempen
and woollen goods. The weekly market-day
is Friday. The trade of Inverness and the
surrounding district is aided by branches of the
Bank of Scotland, British Linen Company,
Commercial Bank, and National Bank, set-
tled here ; and there are a number of agen-
cies of Insurance Offices. The government
offices are — a tax, customs, excise, and post-
office. The town possesses a subscription
library, two circulating libraries, two Bible
societies, a Sabbath school society, a school
library of select religious books, and two mason
lodges. It is further the appointed seat of a
society for the education of the poor in the
Highlands, the Medical Society of the North,
the Inverness-shire Farming Society, and the
Northern Institution, whose place of meeting
is above noticed. This body is composed of a
considerable number of noblemen and gentle-
men in the northern counties, associated for
purposes of local utility. Horse races are run
under theirauspices, and their meetinggenerally
induces the temporary residence of the fashion-
ables of the district. Besides the academy of
Inverness, which is governed by a body of direc-
tors, whose qualification is the payment of L.50
to the funds of the institution, the list of schools
in the town in 1830 exhibited the following : —
Two boarding schools for young ladies ; Rain-
ing's endowed school ; Education Society's
central school ; female school of industry ; two
musie schools; a dancing school; a ladies'
day school ; and four private schools. The
encouragement which is given by the burgh
and the community to these seminaries, much
to the credit of the place, gives a very differ-
ent idea of the anxiety now displayed for the
general promotion of education from that of-
fered by certain records in the books of the
town-council, by which it appears, that in
1G62, the magistrates prohibited all persons,
excepting the town teachers, from giving in-
structions in reading or writing within the
burgh; and in 1677, "enacted that Mary
Cowie shall not teach reading beyond the Pro-
verbs." The ecclesiastical establishments are,
the parish church (with three clergymen,) a
chapel of ease, a Seceder chapel, Episcopal
chapel, Methodist chapel, Independent chapel,
and a Roman Catholic chapel. The fast day
of the church is generally a Thursday early in
July. There have of late been various im-
provements made in the town and neighbour-
hood, which are well worthy of being made
known. A very important step towards per-
fecting the local establishments has been made
in the institution of a joint stock company,
having in view the double object of lighting
the town with gas, and supplying it with water
by means of pipes. In 1825, a company of
this description was associated, by shares of
L.10, creating a capital of L.12,000. In
1826, the gas was introduced, and it is now
reckoned the best and purest in Scotland. The
supplying of the town with water by pipes,
from the Ness was carried into effect in 1830.
An act of parliament was recently obtained,
empowering the levying of an assessment on
the inhabitants for paving and causewaying the
streets ; the works will be entered upon this
year, and will be executed in the best manner.
The want of some place of recreation in the
open air was long felt in Inverness, but this
can hardly be said to be now the case. Two
long narrow islands in the Ness, above the
INVERNESS.
595
town, have been planted and beautified in a
variety of ways, so as to make them a most
delightful place for promenading in fine
weather. The lower island is connected with
the right bank of the stream by a handsome
suspension bridge. Another suspension bridge,
to connect the latter island with the left side
of the river, is now in progress, and when fi-
nished, the whole will form one of the very
finest things of the kind in Britain. The ex-
pense consequent on these great improvements
has been defrayed by subscriptions. The en-
virons of Inverness, enriched by the fresh
green foliage of these small islands, are per-
haps not excelled in Scotland, and their beau-
ties have even had the effect of drawing praise
from the querulous Macculloch : — " "When
I have stood in Queen Street of Edinburgh,"
says he, " and looked towards Fife, I have
sometimes wondered whether Scotland con-
tained a finer view of its class. But I have
forgotten this on my arrival at Inverness.
Surely, if a comparison is to be made with
Edinburgh, always excepting its own romantic
disposition, the Firth of Forth must yield the
palm to the Moray Firth, the surrounding
country must yield altogether, and Inverness
must take the highest rank. Eveiy thing too
is done for Inverness that can be effected by
wood and by cultivation; the characters of
which here have altogether a richness, a va-
riety, and a freedom, which we miss around
Edinburgh. The mountain screens are finer,
more various, and more near. Each outlet is
different from the other, and each is beautiful ;
whether we proceed towards Fort George, or
towards Moy, or enter the valley of the Ness,
or skirt the shores of the Beauly Firth ;
while a short and commodious ferry wafts
us to the lovely country opposite, rich with
woods and country seats and cultivation."
A remarkable curiosity, called Tom-na-heu-
rich (the hill of fairies,) which rises abrupt-
ly out of the plain on the north side of the
river, " and the hill of Craig Phadrig, add
much variety to the valley of the Ness, nor do
the extensive sweeps of fir wood produce here
that arid effect which so commonly attend
them ; contrasted and supported as they are,
by green meadows, by woods of other form,
and by the variety of the surface. Tom-na-
heurich, not ill-compared to a vessel with its
keel uppermost, is, or rather was, a reputed
haunt of fairies ; and is plainly a relic of the
ancient alluvium, the remainder of whiith has
been carried forward to the sea." It is consi-
dered by the country people to be the sepul-
chral mound of Thomas the Rhymer; a per-
sonage, by the way, as well known here as in
Lauderdale. The walks all around it, and
along the banks of the Ness, are extremely
beautiful. It is near this place that the Cale-
donian Canal terminates. At no great dis-
tance, the singular hill called Craig Phadric
rears its woody brow, coronetted by a splen-
did vitrified fort, the wonder of travellers.
The handsome house of Muirtown, embo-
somed in the woods which cover the side of
that hill, has a capital effect in the landscape,
forming, it may be said, one of the finest points
in the environs of Inverness — Population of
the parish and burgh in 1821, 12,264, of which
the burgh had 10,500.
INVERNETTIE, a small harbour in
Aberdeenshire, near Peterhead.
INVERSNAID, a small fortress in the
parish of Buchanan, Stirlingshire, two miles east
from Loch Lomond. It was erected in the
early part of the eighteenth century, to repress
the depredations of the clan Macgregor and other
turbulent Highlanders of the district. For many
years it has not been possessed by a garrison.
INVERUGIE, a small village, county
of Banff, parish of St. Fergus, situated at the
mouth of the river Ugie. The ruined castle of
Inverugie, once a seat of the Marischal family,
and which gave accommodation for a night to
the chevalier de St. George, after he landed in
1716, is adjacent.
INVERURY, a parish in Aberdeenshire,
lying at the termination of the peninsula be-
tween the river Urie on the north, and the
Don on the south ; extending from west to
east upwards of four miles ; bounded by Cha-
pel of Garioch on the north and west, Kern-
nay and Kintore on the south, and Keith-
hall on the east. The area of the parish
contains about 4000 acres, much of which in
the western part is hilly arid pastoral. To-
wards the banks of the above rivers the land is
under cultivation. In the south-western part
of the parish, near the Don, stands the Roman
Catholic college of Aquhorties, which is a
beautiful and pleasantly situated building, and
in which the limited number of twenty-seven
young gentlemen are educated in this religious
persuasion.
Inverury, a royal burgh, the capital of
596
IRVINE.
tho above parish, is pleasantly situated in the
angle of land near the confluence of the Urie
and Don, at the distance of sixteen miles north-
west of Aberdeen. It is related by tradition,
that the town obtained the privileges of a royal
burgh from Robert Bruce, on the occasion of
a signal victory obtained by him there, over
Comyn, Earl of Buchan, the king of Eng-
land's general in Scotland, which proved the be-
ginning of that good fortune that attended him
ever after during the whole of his reign. The
oldest charter is a novodamus by Queen Mary,
narrating that Inverury had been a royal burgh
time immemorial, but the charter of its erection
had been lost in the civil wars. In virtue of
this renewed charter, the burgh has been since
governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and thirteen councillors ;
and joins with Kintore, Cullen, Banff, and
Elgin, in sending a member to parliament.
Inverury gives the title of Baron to the Earl
of Kintore, who is one of the chief proprietors
of the district. The town is small, and its
trade is only in manufactures for local use.
The road from Aberdeen is carried across the
Don, a short way above its junction with the
Urie, by a stone bridge, erected in 1791. Be-
tween the bridge and the confluence of the
streams, the Don receives the Inverury Canal,
which here terminates ; the other extremity is
near the harbour of Aberdeen. This artificial
canal has been of much advantage in an agri-
cultural point of view to this quarter of the
shire, by permitting the cheap and easy intro-
duction of lime, and the export of country pro-
duce ; but it has yielded no profit to the capi-
talists, at whose expense it was made. A
cattle market is held at Inverury, once a-month
in summer, and every fortnight in winter. Be-
sides the parish church, there are chapels for an
Independent and a Methodist congregation. —
Population of the burgh in 1821, 750, includ-
ing the parish, 1 129.
IONA — See Icolmkiix.
IRONGRAY See Kirkpatiuck-Iron
GRAY.
IRVINE, a parish in the district of Cun-
ningham, Ayrshire, lying on the coast of the
Firth of Clyde. At its greatest length it is
about five miles, extending from the sea on the
south-west, to the parish of Stewarton on the
north-east. At its greatest breadth it is about
two miles, being bounded on the south-east
and east by the Annoek, which separates it
from the parish of Dreghorn, on the north and
north-east by the parish of Kilwinning, on
the north-west by the river Garnock, and on
the south by the river Irvine, which separates
it from the parish of Dundonald. A small
portion of the latter belongs to Irvine parish,
in ecclesiastical matters. On the coast and
banks of the river, the surface is flat and sandy,
towards the north-eastern extremity the land
is more elevated, and the whole, assisted by
improvements, is fertile and pleasing in ap-
pearance. This quarter of the country is much
beautified by the plantations and pleasure-
grounds of Eglinton Castle.
Irvine, a royal burgh, the seat of a presbytery,
a sea-port, and the capital of the above parish,
is agreeably situated on the banks of the river
of the same name, about a mile from its junc-
tion with the sea ; at the distance of eleven
miles north of Ayr, sixty-seven from Edin-
burgh, twenty-five south-south-west of Glas-
gow, thirty-four south of Greenock, seven
south-east of Saltcoats, and six and a half
west of Kilmarnock. It is a town of consid-
erable antiquity, as appears by the records of
the burgh, Alexander II. having granted a
charter to ..the burgesses, confirming some other
royal grants. From a charter granted by Ro-
bert II. it appears that the burgesses of Irvine
were in possession of the whole barony of
Cunningham and Largs. Perhaps its early
importance was enhanced by the establishment
of a monastery of Carmelite or white friars,
in the year 1412, which was consecrated to the
Virgin Mary, and endowed with the lands of
Fullerton. In the present times it is a small
but thriving town, standing on a rising ground
on the right bank of the Irvine, the estuary. of
which forms its harbour. The situation is
dry and airy, a broad street running from south-
east to north-west, the whole length of the town,
on the south side of the river, but connected with
the town by a bridge"; there is a row of houses
on each side of the road leading to the harbour ;
these are built on a uniform plan, and are most-
ly inhabited by sea-faring people. A number
of the same kind of houses are built on the road
leading to Ayr. None of these suburbs are
within the royalty. The bridge of Irvine is the
widest and handsomest in the county. At the
centre of the burgh there is a town-house, which
happens to bear a striking resemblance to that
of Annan. The church is an ornament to the
place, being situated on a rising ground betwixt.
IRVINE.
597
the town and the river, and surmounted by a
spire of extraordinary elegance. It commands
extensive views of the Firth of Clyde, and of
the stupendous mountains of Arran. There
are three other places of worship, all of them
neat structures. At the north end of the town
an academy was erected in 1814, at an expense
•of L.2250, of which sum the burgh gave
L.1633. 4s. 6d; and the remainder was sup-
plied by public subscription. In this useful
institution, which is an ornament and honour
to the town, are taught Latin, Greek, French,
English, the mathematics, writing, arithmetic,
&c. Besides these, there are a subscription free
school, some private schools, and several Sab-
bath schools. The town possesses a good news-
room and subscription library. The trade of
the port consists principally of the export of
coals, of which 28,500 tons are said to be
shipped yearly to Ireland. The imports are
iron, timber, slates, limestone, and grain. The
number of vessels employed was lately about
ninety. The port has a regidar custom-house
establishment. The trade of the town is as-
sisted by some branches of banks. There are
mills belonging to the burgh, which in point
of architecture and machinery are unequalled in
Ayrshire. Irvine, as a royal burgh, is governed
by a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and twelve councillors. It joins with
Ayr, Campbellton, Inverary, and Rothesay, in
sending a member to parliament. A small
market is held on Saturday, and there are some
annual fairs, as well as occasional horse races.
Resides the established church, there is a meet-
ing house belonging to the United Associate
Synod, one to the Relief body, and a Baptist
chapel. The fast days of the kirk are the Wed-
nesday before the second Sunday of June and
the third or fourth Sunday of October. " Irvine
is remarkable," says the Picture of Scotland,
•" for having been the birth-place of two admir-
ed living authors, and the temporary residence
of an illustrious poet deceased; Mr. Mont-
gomery, the poet, and Mr. Gait, the novelist,
are natives of the town, and Burns once lived
in it. The house in which Mr- Montgomery
was born stands on the north side of the en-
trance to an alley called the Braid close, in a
Jong regular street leading to the harbour ; and
the little chapel in which his father, a Moravi-
an clergyman, long preached, is to be seen be-
hind thg house, being now used in the capacity
of a weaver's shop, though still known by the
name of 'the Moravian Kirk.' The ingeni-
ous author of the ' Annals of the Parish' first
saw the light in a more respectable part of the
town ; namely, in a goodly house of two storeys
upon the south side of the main street, near to
the west end of the town. Regarding Burns's
place of residence in Irvine, there prevails con-
siderable obscurity. The site of the house
where he lived and worked as a flax-dresser,
after a tedious inquiry, is conjectured with great
probability to have been the spot now marked
4, in a narrow street, called the Glasgow Ven-
nel, being the second house from the main street
on the right hand side. Another situation
pointed out is in the Seagate, near an old
castellated building formerly occupied by the
dowagers of the Eglinton family." It will be
recollected that while the poet was endea-
vouring to establish himself in business here,
his shop was unfortunately burnt, and his pros-
pects blighted — Population of the burgh and
parish in 1821, 7007.
IRVINE, a river in Ayrshire, rising from the
east side of Loudon Hill, parish of Loudon,
on the eastern confines of the county, and pass-
ing Derville, Newmills, Galston, and Riccar-
ton, falls into the Firth of Clyde below the
above mentioned town of Irvine. The course
of the Irvine water is very direct from east to
west, and throughout serves as the boundary
betwixt Kyle and Cunningham. Its chief
tributaries, which join it on the right bank,
are the Kilmarnock, the Carmel, and the An-
nock waters.
IS AY, an islet of the Hebrides, in the west
Loch Tarbet, in the district of Harris.
ISHOL, an islet in Loch Linnhe, Argyle-
shire.
IS H OL, an islet on the south-west coast of
Islay.
ISLA, a river in Banffshire, having its
origin in the parish of Keith, and adjacent
districts, and pursuing an easterly or south-
easterly course for about twelve miles, joins
the Deveron above Rothiemay. The vale
through which it flows is sometimes called
Strathisla.
ISLA, a river of Forfarshire, and the third
in point of size in the county. It rises among
the Grampian Mountains, in the northern part
of Glenisla parish, through which it pursues a
southerly, and latterly, a south-easterly course.
After receiving the Back water, from the parish
of Lentrathen, it makes several bends tending
598
I S L A Y.
westward, and receiving the Dean water, at the
south-west corner of Airly parish, it enters
Perthshire. Its next and only tributary of con-
sequence is the Ericht, near Cupar, and pur-
suing a south-westerly course it joins the Tay,
which it very much increases, above Kinclaven.
Its banks throughout are generally beautiful,
and it yields excellent salmon fishing.
ISLAY, or ILAY, a large island belong-
ing to Argyleshire, and the most southerly of
those entitled the Hebrides. It lies in a
westerly direction from the peninsula of Can-
tire, distant from it about twelve miles, and is
separated on the north from the island of Jura
by a narrow channel. The island of Islay is
shaped somewhat like a heart, with the inden-
tation on the south side, caused by the bay of
Loch Indal, and the apex of the figure towards
the north. It measures twenty-eight miles
long, and at the broadest part it measures about
eighteen across. In ancient times this insulat-
ed territory was the chief strong-hold of the
Macdonalds, when Lords of the Isles, and it
was here that, with rude patriarchal ceremo-
nies, they were installed in their office of chiefs.
Instead of a throne, the chieftains stood on a
stone seven feet square, in which was a hollow
to receive their feet. In this place, in presence
of their vassals, they were crowned and anoint-
ed by the Bishop of Argyle and seven infe-
rior priests. After putting on their armour,
helmet, and sword, they took an oath to rule
as their ancestors had done ; that was, to govern
as a father would his children. Their people,
in return, swore that they would be obedient,
as children pay obedience to the commands of
their parents. The spot where these ceremo-
nies were enacted is still pointed out. Near
the end of the sixteenth century, this and other
possessions were confiscated by the crown;
and by grant or purchase, the whole is now in
different hands. On the east side of the island
the surface is hilly, and covered with heath ;
but the greater part of the land is flat, and
where uncultivated, is covered with a fine green
sward. The whole is not very interesting to
the stranger, unless as he may take pleasure in
witnessing the rise and progress of agricultural
improvement and wealth. It retains so few
marks of Highland manners, as scarcely to
excite any feelings different from the low coun-
try. Opulent tenants, Lowland agriculture, and
good houses and roads make the traveller for-
get that he is in the ancient kingdom of the
Norwegian Lords of the Isles. The coast is
rugged and rocky, but indented by numerous
bays and harbours, which are safe landing places
for vessels. Loch Indal, on the south side,
forms a spacious but shallow bay, much fre-
quented by shipping, and the village or town
of Bowmore on its east side is of a respecta-
ble size and appearance. On the western
shore, there is a very large and open cave called
Uaimhmore, which, in the days of poverty, was
inhabited by different families. The cave of
Sanig, further to the south, is narrow, dark,
wet, and uninteresting. Loch Greinord also
on the west side, is a deep narrow indentation ;
but shallow and marshy ; giving ample evidence
of having been once united to Loch Indal, so
as to have cut the island into a larger and
smaller part. The sea banks, which it has
long left dry, and the still progressive shoaling
of both these inlets, are proofs that cannot be
mistaken. The east coast is without interest.
The island has several small lakes, which ori-
ginate a variety of streamlets, all abounding
with trout and salmon. Islay is rich in mi-
nerals. Lead has been long wrought, and cop-
per is nearly as abundant. The island also
possesses abundance of limestone, and marie.
The crops raised are principally of barley and
oats, and much of the grain is Used in the dis-
tillation of whisky. For this article the island
has been long celebrated, and for many years
there has been a contest among connoisseurs,
whether that of Islay or Campbellton, in Can-
tire, ought to carry the palm of superiority.
There are at present, or were lately, fourteen
distilleries on the island, constantly at work
in the preparation of whisky for the Lowland
market. The trade thus carried on has been
the cause of many improvements, and the
island now presents a spectacle of thriving in-
dustry. Islay composes three parochial divi-
sions, namely, Bowmore (see Killarrow),
Kilchoman and Kildalton. The only town is
Bowmore. — The population of Islay in 1821,
11,008.
ISLAY SOUND, the strait betwixt the
above island of Islay and Jura. The tides run
through it with the violence of a rapid river, by
which the navigation is very dangerous.
ISLE-MARTIN, an island in Loch
Broom, Ross-shire, on which is a fishing station.
ISLE TANERA See Tanera.
ISSURTj an islet of the Hebrides, near
Harris.
JEDBURGH.
5'J9
JAMES' TOWN, a small village in the up-
per part of the parish of Westerkirk, district of
Eskdale, Dumfries-shire. It stands on the
Meggot Water, and was built for the residence
of miners in the vicinity.
JED, or JED WATER, a small river in
Roxburghshire, rising in Carter Hill, in the
upper part of the parish of Southdean. After
a tortuous course tending northward, it passes
the town of Jedburgh ; and, about two miles
below, drops into the Tiviot, the well known
tributary of the Tweed. The Jed is an excel-
lent trouting stream, and the scenery on its
banks is reckoned very beautiful. The vale
through which it flows is not spacious, and
therefore presents no such view as that of the
Tweed at Kelso. But, as it is serpentine and
irregular, its views, if not so extensive or im-
posing, are much more varied, infinite, and even
picturesque. At eveiy step one takes along
the banks of the stream, he discovers a novel
and striking variety in the general tone of the
landscape. On this account the tourist will
find as much gross amount of good landscape
in a walk of two miles along the Jed, as he
will find it possible to obtain even in the High-
lands, in a whole day's ride. If better authori-
ty be wanting, reference may be had to Burns,
who speaks somewhere of " Eden scenes on
crystal Jed," and has expressed the highest
satisfaction with this part of his tour through
the Arcadia of his native land. Thomson al-
so eulogizes the " sylvan Jed," on whose banks
he spent the years of his boyhood and early
youth, in the parish of Southdean.
JEDBURGH, a parish in the county of
Roxburgh, consisting of two detached por-
tions, situated in the territory betwixt the Ti-
viot and the heights of the border fells. The
lower division lying on either side of the Jed,
forms the great body of the parish. The se-
cond, which is the smallest division, is the dis-
trict of old Jedburgh. In this division there
was anciently a chapel, opposite to Dolphin-
ston Mill. In the upper portion of the
parish, is the barony of Edgerston. The
barony of Upper Crailing, attached to the east
side of the lower division, was anciently a se-
parate parish. At the elevated extremity of
the upper part of the parish, is the Reid Swire,
where a sanguinary border fight took place, on
the 7th of July 1575. The two old parishes
of Jedburgh are the most ancient parochial di-
visions in Scotland, of which any record exists.
The country here is for the greater part hilly
and pastoral, with cultivation only in the vales,
and chiefly on the Jed and Tiviot. The
lower division is now finely planted in many
places, and the district is generally under an
excellent course of improvement.
JEDBURGH, a royal burgh, the seat of a
presbytery, and the capital of the above parish,
as well as the county town of Roxburghshire,
is agreeably situated on the left bank of the
Jed water, at the distance of forty-six miles
(by Lauder) south of Edinburgh, ten west of
Kelso, ten east of Hawick, and twelve north
of the borders of England. The town is of a
very ancient date, and was originally entitled
Jedworth, from Jed, the appellation of the river,
and weorth, the Saxon term for a hamlet. In
the course of time it has been perverted into
its present designation ; but, throughout a very
extensive district in the south, the old appella-
tion is partly preserved in the name of Jeddart,
or Jethart, which are exclusively used by the
common people. The name of Jed has led
some antiquaries to suppose that it was the ca-
pital town of the people denominated the Gade-
ni, who, in the period immediately subsequent
to the dissolution of the Roman power in Bri-
tain, possessed the central part of the marches,
between Cumberland and Lothian. The con-
sequence of the town was considerably enhanc-
ed in the twelfth century, by the foundation of
a monastery by David I., to the canons-regular
of which establishment he gave the churches of
the two parishes of Jedburgh, with the tithes
and other dues. David also gave to the canons
the chapel of Scarsburgh, lying in a recess of
the forest, to the east of the Jed ; and in a
later epoch, the monastery was put in posses-
sion of the dependencies of Restennet in An-
gus, and Cannoby in Dumfries- shire. Thus ere-
riched by such a splendid religious establish-
ment, the importance of the town was secured
by the erection of a castle, the strongest and
most extensive on the borders. In the year 1 285,
Jedburgh was the scene of the festivities which
attended the second marriage of Alexander III. ;
when a masker, resembling the usual skeleton
figure of death, joined in one of the dances,
and had such a powerful effect upon the nerves
of the queen, and the rest of the revellers, as
to cause the ball to be suddenly closed. Though
afterwards ascertained to be a mere jest, this
strange apparition made a deep impression up.
on the popular mind, and was afterwards held
600
JEDBURGH.
to have been an omen of the childless bed of
Alexander, his early death, and the consequent
mishaps .which befel his country. Little else
is heard of the town throughout the obscure
era of the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth
centuries ; but after this period it frequently
enters into the history of the wars carried on
betwixt the Scots and English. Placed in a
remote part of the country, so near the scene
of constant strife, it had the misfortune to be
seven times burnt, at least, so says tradition,
but as regularly reviving from such a disaster.
Before being burnt by the Earl of Surrey in
1523, it was so important a place as to be thus
described by that general, in a letter to his
master, Henry VIII. " There was two times
more houses therein than Berwick, and well
builded, with many honest and fair houses in
garrison, and six good towers therein." The
castle of Jedburgh was at this time of great
strength, as is testified by the circumstance,
that on the Scottish gavernment determining
to destroy it, it was meditated to impose a tax
of two pennies on every hearth in Scotland, as
the only means of accomplishing so arduous an
undertaking. If the quality of self-sufficiency
in the magistrates be any proof of prospe-
rity in the town, Jedburgh must have
been in a truly flourishing condition during
this c'entury. In what are called " the
Queen's Wars," Jedburgh had the hardi-
hood to espouse the interest of King James
and the Protestant faith, in opposition to Ker
of Ferniehirst, their powerful neighbour, who
stood out for the unfortunate Mary. This
daring feud was accompanied with some ludi-
crous, but fully as many tragical circumstances.
When a pursuivant under the authority of the
queen, and countenanced by Ferniehirst, was
sent to proclaim that every thing was null
which had been done against her during her
confinement in Lochleven, the provost com-
manded him to descend from the cross, and,
says Bannatyne the journalist, " caused him
eat his letters, and thereafter loosed down his
points, and gave him his wages on his bare
buttocks with a bridle, threatening him that if
he ever came again he should lose his life."
In revenge of this insult, and of other points
of quarrel, Ferniehirst, having made prisoners
ten of the citizens of Jedburgh, hanged them,
and destroyed with fire the whole stock of pro-
visions which had been laid up for winter. The
distinction of the people of Jedburgh in arms
at this early period, is indicated by their proud
war-cry of " Jethart's here !" as well as by their
dexterity in handling a particular sort of par-
tisan, which therefore got the name of the
" Jethart staff." Of this celebrated species of
weapon, which is proverbial in the country,
Mair, in his history, fortunately supplies us
with a description, as also with the fact that
it got its name from being made at Jedburgh :
" Ferrum chalybeum quatuor pedes longum
in robusti ligni extremo Jeduardiensis." It is
said to have been the bravery of the burgesses
of Jedburgh that turned the fate of the day at
the skirmish of the Reidswire, already noticed,
and one of the last fought upon the borders.
The change of affairs produced upon the
marches by the union of the crowns, caused
Jedburgh to retrograde in prosperity for a cen-
tury and a half; and it has only been within
the recollection of the present generation that
the town can be said to have recovered any
part of its original prosperity. At the Refor-
mation of religion the abbey was abolished, its
revenues confiscated, and its property erected
into a temporal lordship in favour of Sir An-
drew Ker of Ferniehirst, ancestor of -the Mar-
quis of Lothian. The citizens of Jedburgh
founded a monastery for Franciscan or Gray
friars, in 1513. As these religionists were of
an order which obliged them to live by mendi-
city, they could have little property to offer to
the aristocratic spoilers at the Reformation.
We mention this obscure convent for the pur-
pose of saying that here lived and died Adam
Bell, a monkish writer of considerable eminence
in the sixteenth century, whose chief work was
the History of the Scottish Nation from the
beginning of the world till the year 1535, en-
titled Rota Temporum. This literary curiosity
is often alluded to by antiquaries, and it is un-
derstood that the original copy was lost at Ros-
lin, at the Revolution, when the mob spoiled
the chapel. An imperfect copy, and we be-
lieve the only one, was in the library of Sir
George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh. — The town
of Jedburgh, in the present day, has four prin-
cipal streets, which cross each other at right
angles, and terminate in a square or market-
place. The Town- Head and High Street run
parallel to the river. The street which crosses
these is one running from the Castle-hill to
the New Bridge, having a declivity to the
water. In recent times the town has been
generally improved, and many elegant and spa-
JEDBURGH
G01
eious buildings have been erected. The prin-
cipal object in the town is the abbey, which
stands on a piece of ground betwixt the houses
and the river. Though the west end of this
venerable structure has been mutilated into a
parish church in a style inconsistent with
good taste, while the eastern extremity is
partly ruinous, enough remains to impress
the spectator with a high idea of its original
beauty and magnificence. Some patriotic in-
dividuals have lately expended a considerable
sum upon such repairs as seemed calculated to
prevent further dilapidation ; and these opera-
tions have been conducted with the greatest
taste and success. The great tower of the
fabric is still in tolerably good preservation.
Near the abbey formerly stood the cross, and
there also were the court-house and jail. The
court-house and jail of Jedburgh are objects of
more than ordinary interest in the eyes of a
south-country man, for Jedburgh is a transient
seat of the court of justiciary, and these build-
ings have proved fatal to many a stalwart bor-
derer. It is on this account that the name of
the town is constantly associated in the mind
of a Merse, Tweeddale, or Tiviotdale man
with ideas of sheep-stealing and hanging.
Nor does the fearful import of the phrase
'•' Jethart justice" alleviate the horrors of
this concatenation of ideas. Jedburgh justice
implies the circumstance of first hanging
and then judging a criminal, and is a piece of
popular obloquy, supposed to have taken its
rise in some instance of summary and unce-
remonious vengeance, executed here by either
a feudal chief or a sovereign, in one of his
justiciary tours through the borders. There
is a new jail, denominated the castle, in con-
sequence of its occupying the site of the an-
cient fortress, and perhaps of its architecture
being of that castellated description which has
lately become so prevalent The elegance of
the building is such as to disguise its real
character as completely to the eye as its name
does to the ear. The height of the situ-
ation at the head of the town conduces great-
ly to its fine appearance, and causes it to be
seen from a distance all round the town.
Executions have, from time immemorial, taken
place on this eminence, from which a view is
obtained so charming, and so calculated to
make one in love with this world, that it seems
almost an act of cruelty to add to the misery
of the criminal's situation by depriving him
of life in sight of such a prospect. In Jed-
burgh may yet be seen the house in which
Queen Mary lodged, after her visit to Both-
well at Hermitage. " It is a large old house,"
says the author of the Picture of Scotland,
from whom we quote, " with a sort of turret
behind, more like a mansion-house of the reign
of Charles II. than what it is said really to be,
one of the bastel-houses, of which Surrey enu-
merates six, as existing early in the sixteenth
century. It is situated in a back street, and*
with its screen of dull trees in front, has a
somewhat lugubrious appearance, as if con-
scious of its connexion with the most melan-
choly tale that ever occupied the page of his-
tory. Mary remained in Jedburgh several
days, with a sickness contracted in her forced
march, from which, for a time, she gave up
hopes of ever recovering. The same appear-
ance of entire antiquity which so strongly marks
the Abbey Wynd or Close, prevails in a larger
district of the town in a situation resembling
the castle-hill of Edinburgh, and denominated
the Town-heid. The Town-heid is compos-
ed solely of very old houses, which seem to
have never either needed or received any of
that species of mutilation, called by antiqua-
ries ruin, and by tradesmen repair. The se-
cret is, that the inhabitants of the Town-hcid
all possess their own houses, and being a quiet
unambitious kind of people, not overmuch
given to tormenting themselves for the sake of
comfort, or killing themselves with cleaning
and trimming, just suffer their tenements to de-
scend peaceably from father to son, as they are,
have been, and will be. The houses, therefore,
are venerable enough in all conscience ; but it is
impossible for them to be more old-fashioned
than the people who live in them. The
Town-heid folk, for such is their common ap-
pellation, are in fact a sort of problem even
to the other people of Jedburgh. They are a
kind of knitters in the sun ; a race who exer-
cise, from the morning to the evening of life, a
set of humble trades which do not obtain in
other parts of the town. For instance, one
would not be surprised to find that the Town-
heid boasts of possessing an ingenious artizan,
who can make cuckoo clocks, and mend broken
china. And the trades of the Town-heid,
not less than the houses thereof, are hereditary,
even unto the rule of primogeniture. A Town-
heid tailor, for example, would as soon expect
his eldest son to become chancellor of Great
Britain, as he would form the ambitious wish
of makng him a haberdasher in the lower part
4 H
602
JEDBURGH.
of the town. There was once a barber in the
Town-heid, who lived seventy-one years with-
out ever being more than two miles from Jed-
burgh on any occasion except one, and that
was a call to Oxnam, {three miles,) which he
was only induced to attend to because it was
a case, not of life and death, but of death it-
self ; being to shave a dead man. There have
not been more instances of Town-heid folk
descending to the lower part of Jedburgh, than
of Town-fit folk ascending to the Town-heid.
The cause is plain. There is never such a
thing in the Town-heid as a house to be let.
The Town-heid is a place completely built,
and completely peopled ; no change can ever
take place in it ; fire alone could diminish the
number of its houses, and the gates of life and
death are the only avenues by which people
can enter or go out of it." — As a royal burgh,
whose charters of erection are as ancient as
the dawn of record, Jedburgh is governed by
a provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, a trea-
surer, assisted by a select council of the prin-
cipal citizens. Besides the courts of the ma-
gistrates, there are justice of peace courts held
at regular intervals. The town is also the
seat of the sheriff-courts for the county of Rox-
burgh ; and the circuit courts of justiciary, as
above alluded to, are held at stated periods-
The jurisdiction of this supreme judicature is
extended over the whole of the vale of the
Tweed, delinquents, witnesses, and juries being
carried thither even from the upper part of
Peebles-shire, by a most tedious and expensive
route, while that district is within an easy
half day's journey of Edinburgh ! Besides the
established church, Jedburgh possesses two
meeting- houses of the United Associated Sy-
nod, and one of the Relief body, which latter
denomination of Christians took its rise in this
town. The dissenters here form a large and
influential class. The chief trade of the town
consists in the manufacture and sale of flan-
nels, tartans, carpets and stockings, and in
the spinning of woollen yarn ; it draws some
additional wealth from fruit, which is pro-
duced in greater quantities in the private
gardens throughout the town than in any other
part of Scotland, with the exception of Clydes-
dale. There is reared in and about the town
a peculiarly fine species of apple, which is be-
lieved to have been introduced from abroad,
by the inmates of the abbey, before the Refor-
mation. The town has the right to hold four
annual fairs and two hiring markets. Jedburgh
26.
possesses branches of the British Linen Com-
pany and National banks. There is now an
excellent grammar and English school, con-
ducted on the best principles. The inhabi-
tants support three public libraries, and there
are letter-press printers in the town. In recent
times Jedburgh has become noted for the manu-
facture of a new description of printing presses,
under a patent by the inventor, Mr. Hope, an
iron-founder in the place, by whose name they
are known. There is daily communication with
Edinburgh, Newcastle, and intermediate places,
by means of stage coaches. The appearance of
the town has of late been much improved by the
erection of a number of elegant villas on the
eminences around. — Population of the burgh in
1821, 2500, including the parish, 5251.
JOCK'S LODGE ; see article Edin-
burgh, under the head Environs.
JOHN O'GROAT'S HOUSE, the most
celebrated and extensively known house in
Great Britain, but which now does not exist ;
its site, however, being still known by the name.
John o' Groat's House is supposed — for the
fact only rests upon the suspicious legends of
the north — to have been a small cottage of a
peculiar form, which existed several ages ago,
upon one of the most northerly points of the
mainland of Scotland, in the county of Caith-
ness. The accredited site of this famed domi-
cile is still pointed out, on the flat shore of the
Pentland Firth, in the palish of Canisbay, a mile
and a-half from Duncansby-head on the east,
and the inn of Houna on the west. Being thus
at the very verge of the island of Great Britain,
(though not so far north as Dunnet-head, lying
fifteen miles to the west,) in popular collo-
quy it is often mentioned as one of the extre-
mities of the united kingdom, Penzance, at the
Land's-end in Cornwall, being the other. John
o' Groat's House is said to have been founded
for the following reason. A lowlander of the
name of Groat, along with his brother, arrived
in Caithness, in the reign of James IV., bear-
ing a letter from the king, which recommended
them to the gentlemen of the county. They
procured land at this remote spot, settled, and
became the founders of families. When the
race of Groat had increased to the amount of
eight different branches, the amity which had
hitherto characterised them was interrupted by
a question of precedency or chieftainship. One
night, in the course of some festivity, a quarrel
arose, as to who should sit at the head of the
table next the door ; high words ensued, and
JOHNSTONE.
603
the ruin of the whole family seemed to be at
hand by means of their injudicious dissension.
In this emergency one of them, named John,
■who was proprietor of the ferry over to Ork-
ney, rose, and, having stilled their wrath by soft
language, assured them, that at next meeting he
would settle the point at issue. Accordingly,
he erected upon the extreme point of their ter-
ritory an octagonal building, having a door and
window at every side, and furnished with a table
of exactly the same shape ; and when the next oc-
casion of festivity took place, desired each of
his kin to enter at his own door, and take
the corresponding seat at the table. The striking
originality of the idea fairly overcame all scruples ;
and, with perfect equality, the former good hu-
mour of the fraternity was also restored. The
foundations, or ruins of this house, which is
perhaps the most celebrated in the whole island,
are still to be seen. As to the above story of
its origin and properties, there are different
versions, all nearly alike, and all bearing a resem-
blance to the fable of the knights of the round
table. In all likelihood, the accounts have a
foundation in fact, for among the ancient Gauls
a custom of this nature, to prevent contests
as to superiority, was very general, and might
have been here enacted from a traditionary
remembrance of its efficacy. Rabelais had
been made acquainted with such an ingenious
device, as he notices it in these words, in one
of his productions : " Tous les chevaliers de
la table ronde estoient pauvres gaigne-derniers,
tirans la rame pour passer les rivieres de Oo-
cyte, Phlegeton, Styx, Acheron, and Lethe,
quand messieurs les diables se veulent ebattre
sur l'eau." If this passage alluded to John
o' Groat, it would lead us to suppose that
the whole of the eight Groats were ferrymen.
JOHN'S (St.) a modern village, in the pa-
rish of Dairy, Stewartry of Kirkcudbright,
twenty-one miles north-west of the town of
Kirkcudbright. It has been built on feus from
the Earl of Galloway.
JOHN'S-H A VEN, a thriving sea-port vil-
lage, in the parish of Benholme, Kincardine-
shire, situated nine miles from Montros> twen-
ty-nine from Aberdeen, and four from Inver-
bervie. It lies between the coast road and the
sea, and is inhabited by fishers, and persons en-
gaged in the manufacture of brown linens for
the Dundee merchants. It possesses a meet-
ing-house of the United Associate Synod. The
population hi 1821 was estimated at 1020.
JOHNSTON, a parish in the district of
Annan dale, Dumfries-shire, bounded on the
north by Kirkpatrick-Juxta, on the east by
Wamphray and Applegarth, on the south by
Lochmaben, and on the west by Kirkmiehael.
It extends about six miles in length by three in
breadth, and is formed like the figure of a heart,
the apex of which points to the south. It is
intersected by the Kinnel Water, is now gene-
rally enclosed and cultivated, and ranks as one
of the most fertile and pleasant parishes in the
district. The river Annan runs along a great
part of its eastern side. The parish kirk stands
on its banks. The parish contains some re-
mains of antiquity, in particular, the old and
strong ruined castle of Lochwood — Population
in 1821, 1179.
JOHNSTONE, a modern and thriving vil-
lage within the landward part of the A bbey parish
of Paisley, Renfrewshire, situated on the right
bank of the Black Cart river, at the distance
of about three miles west from Paisley. In
bringing this industrious little town under no-
tice, we cannot do better than introduce the de-
scription of its origin and character, given by
Mr. G. Fowler, in that very serviceable ma-
nual, the Commercial Directory for Renfrew-
shire, published in 1830-1. " Few places in
Britain exhibit so striking an illustration of
the effect of manufactures in originating and
increasing towns, in attracting, condensing, and
augmenting population, as does this thriving
seat of business. Forty-six years ago, near
that bridge over the Black Cart, which, till
lately, gave to the place the popular appellation,
' Brig of Johnstone,' merely a few cottages
[inhabited by ten persons] were to be seen,
where now is a town consisting of two large
squares, many considerable streets, and public
works, with a population of about 7000 souls.
It is probable that the town of Johnstone never
would have existed, or at most been confined
to the few cottages that were placed upon the
ground near to the Brig, had not the late pub-
lic-spirited Laird of Johnstone, by his influence
and example, excited a spirit of industry among
its inhabitants, and cherished and supported it
by his fatherly care and protection ; and, we are
happy to say, that the seed has. been sown in
good ground, as it continues to manifest itself
by the increasing wealth and prosperity of the
enlightened and enterprising merchants and
traders belonging to the place. Towards the
end of October 1782, nine houses of the New
C04
JURA.
Town of Johnstone had been built, two others
were building, and ground on which forty-two
more were to be built had been feued. In 1 792,
the inhabitants were 1434 in number; in 1811,
3647; in 1818, by computation 5000. As
the introduction of the manufacture of cotton
yarn by mill-machinery led to the founding of
Johnstone, so has the extension of the same
manufacture caused its rapid increase and pre-
sent prosperity. There are now, within the
precincts of the place, seventeen cotton mills
of varied extent, some propelled by water,
others by steam ; also, Elderslie, Cartside, and
Linwood mills, in the neighbourhood of John-
stone, making in all twenty mills. Total
amount of spindles in these mills 151,203.
There are also in the town two brass found-
lies, and two extensive iron foundries ; five
machine manufactories, and a public gas work.
Johnstone is very regularly laid out. Besides
Houstoun Square in the centre of the town,
which is now built on every side, there is to
the southward a large area, meant for a second
square, as well as market-place, and which is
also now beginning to be built round with neat
houses. High Street, extending from the
Bridge of Johnstone on the west, to Dick's
Bridge on the east, is closely built ; as are
several other streets branching at right angles
from both its sides. It is in length three fur-
longs, thirty-six poles. The houses are, for
the most part, two stories high, substantially
constructed, and roofed with slates — to many
of them belong gardens. The shops are nu-
merous, and well stocked with cheap, various,
and excellent commodities. Besides the cha-
pel of ease, (an octagonal fabric, to which,
about five years ago, a neat spire, after a de-
sign of Sir Christopher Wren, was added,)
Johnstone contains a United Secession and
Relief church, a Universalist, and a Methodist
chapel. The Universalists' chapel is furnish-
ed with an excellent organ. The inhabitants
have formed themselves into a society for
guarding the church-yard from the depreda-
tions of resurrection men ; and this society,
in all its labours, is aided by the venerable
sexton, who has now held his place thirty-six
years, and in that time has performed the last
duty to upwards of 5200 of the villagers. In
Johnstone are also a town-school, a subscrip-
tion library, two news rooms, a mechanics' in-
stitution and library, sundry religious and
friendly societies, various Sunday schools, &c.
The Ardrossan Canal from Glasgow termi-
nates in a basin at the east end of the town,
to the advantage of which it greatly contributes.
Some years ago an act was passed, authorizing
the formation of a rail-road from Johnstone to
Ardrossan : active operations have now com-
menced at Ardrossan ; and if the work be car-
ried on with spirit, it will .soon be finished.
Near Johnstone are four collieries, highly be-
neficial to the public, and sources of consider-
able revenue to their proprietors. The south-
ern neighbourhood of this place is greatly beau-
tified by Johnstone Castle, a stately mansion,
after the antique, situated among extensive
pleasure-grounds and valuable plantations. A
similarly ornamental effect is produced by the
house and pleasure-grounds of Milliken to the
westward of the town. The former is the
seat of Ludovic Houston, Esq. of Johnstone ;
the latter, that of Sir William M. Napier,
Bart, of Milliken."
JOPPA, a village of modern growth in the
parish of Duddingston, Edinburghshire, situat-
ed on the public road and the shore of the Firth
of Forth, at the distance of a quarter of a mile
east from Portobello. At one time it had an
extensive brick and tile work. A freestone
quarry some years since was opened near it,
and there was recently discovered a mineral
spring, which induces the visits of valetudin-
arians from Portobello. A number of neat
villas have lately been built near the road.
About half a mile further east is a suit of
salt-works receiving the name of Joppa Pans,
JURA, an island of the Hebrides, lying
immediately north of Islay, from which it is
separated by the narrow sound of Islay, and
divided from North Knapdale, in Argyleshire,
by the sound of Jura, a strait of about seven
miles in breadth. On the north it is separated
from Scarba by the gulf of Corryvreckan. It
belongs politically to the county of Argyle.
In extent it is fully twenty-six miles in length ;
seven miles broad at the southern or widest
part, and tapering to about two miles at its
northern extremity. Jura is little else than a
continuous mountain ridge, elevated to the
southward into five distinct points, of which
the three principal are called the Paps of Jura,
and the flat land which it contains is of an ex-
tent so trifling as scarcely to merit notice.
The agriculture being thus very limited, the
island supports but a scanty population. The
different peaks of Jura, which are distinguished
KATRINE (LOCH).
GOo
by particular names, have been the theme of
various travellers, from their prominent ap-
pearance. When Pennant visited the island,
he ascended the most elevated, which is named
Bein-an-oir. He tells us that it is composed
of large stones, covered with mosses near the
base ; but all above were bare, and unconnect-
ed with each other: " the whole," says he,
" seemed a vast cairn, erected by the sons of
Saturn. The grandeur of the prospect from
the top compensated for the labour of ascend-
ing the mountain. From the west side of the
hill ran a narrow stripe of rock into the sea,
called " the Side of the Old Hag." Jura
itself displayed a stupendous front of rock,
varied with innumerable little lakes, of the most
romantic appearance, and calculated to raise
grand and sublime emotions in the mind of the
spectator. To the south, the island of Islay
lay almost under his feet, and, beyond that,
the north of Ireland ; to the east, Gigha, Can-
tire, Arran, and the Firth of Clyde, bounded
by Ayrshire, and an amazing tract of mountains
as far as Benlomond, and the mountains of
Argyle Proper. Scarba terminated the north-
ern view. Over the western ocean were seen
Colonsay, Mull, Iona, Staffa, and the neigh-
bouring isles ; and still further, the long ex-
tended islands of Coll and Tirey." This huge
peaked mountain is elevated 2420 feet above
the level of the sea. Bein-acholais, is the
name of another of these conspicuous peaks.
The western shores of Jura are wild and rug-
ged, intersected by many torrents which come
rushh.g down from the mountains. The coast
is here perforated with many of those caves
which are so common in the Hebrides. About
the middle of the same side the shore is indent-
ed with the long narrow inlet of Loch Tarbet,
which possesses no beauty. The whole of the
west side of the island, from its mountainous
and wilderness character, is, with hardly an
exception, destitute of human habitations, the
population being resident on the eastern shores.
On this latter side is almost the only made
road in the island. The country here is pleas-
ing, being embellished with trees and laid out
in arable fields. The little fishing village of
Jura is on this side, and also the church of the
district. Jura, and the islands of Colonsay,
Ormsay, Scarba, Lunga, and four islets, com-
pose but one parochial division — Population
of the parish of Jura, including Colonsay, in
1821, 1264.
K AILE, or KALE, a rivulet in Roxburgh-
shire, rising in the higher grounds on the bor-
ders, in the parish of Oxnam, running through
the parishes of Hownam and Morebattle, and
falling into the Tiviot in the parish of Eckford,
after a tortuous course of seventeen miles. It
is reckoned an excellent trouting stream.
KAIM, a small village in the parish of Duf-
fus, Morayshire.
KALLIGRAY.— See Calligray.
KANNOR (LOCH)— See articles Can-
nor and Gl.ENMUICK.
KATTERLINE, or CATTERLINE,
a suppressed parish in Kincardineshire, attach-
ed to Kinneff. It gives its name to a small
harbour on the coast, at the south comer of
Dunnotar parish.
KATRINE, (LOCH) a lake in the west-
ern part of the district of Menteith, Perth-
shire, forming, for a considerable space, the
boundary between the parishes of Callander
and Aberfoil, and extending, in a serpentine
form, about nine miles from east to west,
while the breadth is in no place so much as a
mile. From its eastern extremity flows a
stream, which, after widening into two minor
lakes, called Loch Achray and Loch Venna-
char, becomes the river Teith, a considerable
tributary of the Forth. All along the banks
of the three lakes is a range of beautiful sylvan
scenery, enhanced by the rough and Alpine
character of the country. Immediately to the
east of Loch Katrine is the singular piece of
scenery called the Trosachs, which may be
described as a valley covered with large frag-
ments of rock, and flanked with naked precipi-
ces, amidst which grow many beautiful trees and
shrubs, giving a delightful softness to what
would otherwise be a scene of untamed and sa-
vage magnificence. The banks of Loch Katrine
consist of slopes descending from the neigh-
bouring mountains, the most of which are co-
vered with beautiful natural woods, and sup-
ply innumerable picturesque points of view
6oe
KEITH.
to the tourist. Formerly, the extraordinary
beauty of this Highland paradise lay entirely
concealed and unknown ; but since the publi-
cation of Sir Walter Scott's poem, the Lady
of the Lake, of which it was the scene, it has
become a favourite object of tourists, and is
daily visited by multitudes during the summer
and autumn. A good road is now formed be-
tween Callander and Loch Katrine, and also
along its northern bank ; and the conveniency
of a boat to traverse the lake from one end to
the other, may at all times be procured by
tourists, whether they approach from the
east or west extremity. A tract of three
or four miles of mountain road intervenes be-
tween it and Loch Lomond. There is an ex-
cellent inn at Loch Achray, near the east end of
the lake. It affords a curious notion of the late
indifference of the people of Scotland to then-
own fine scenery, that a place of such tran-
scendent loveliness as this should have con-
tinued, till a recent period, to exist within
sixty miles of the capital, and between twenty
and thirty from Stirling, without being acces-
sible by a road. Near the east end of Loch
Katrine is a beautiful little island, which has
evidently supplied the poet with the imaginary
residence of his fair Naiad of the Lake. The
neighbouring country was formerly possessed
by the Macgregors.
KEARN, a parish in Aberdeenshire, now
united to Auchindoir ; see Auchindoir.
KEIG, a small parish in Aberdeenshire,
bounded by Alford on the west, and Mony-
musk on the. east, being divided from the latter
by an elevated hilly range. It extends from
three to four miles in diameter, and is for the
greater part hilly and pastoral. It has also
some natural wood and moss. The river Don
intersects it — Population in 1821, 562.
KEILLESAY, an islet of the Hebrides,
lying five miles north-east of Barray.
KEIR, a parish in Nithsdale, Dumfries-
shire, bounded on the north-west and north by
Tynron and Penpont, on the east by Closeburn,
on the south by Dunscore, and on the west by
Glencairn. The parish is the smallest in this
quarter, not extending much beyond five miles
by two miles in breadth. It is hilly and pas-
toral on the west side. On the east side the
parish is bounded by the Nith, to which the
land beautifully declines. On the banks of
this river stands the church.— Population in
1821, 987.
KEITH, a parish in the county of Banff,
with a portion belonging to the county of
Moray. It is of an elliptical figure, and is
bounded by Bellie and Rathven on the north,
by Grange and Cairny on the east, by Cairny
on the south, and on the west by Botriphnie
and Boharm. It comprehends the greater part
of the lands of Strath- Isla, granted by William
the Lion to the abbots of Kinloss. Anciently,
the parish extended from Malloch to Fordyce,
and comprehended all the fertile lands on the
Isla. That it was a large and rich parish is
evident from the rental of the bishopric of
Moray, for, in 1565, we find the Rentale Ec-
clesice de Keyth, L.333, 6s. 8d., while that of
Rothiemay was but L.40. The word Keith
is derived from the Gaelic Ghaith, signifying
wind. The remains of Druidical temples be-
ing found in the district, it is evident that it has
been inhabited previously to the introduction
of Christianity. It is generally affirmed that
Keith was the station of a Culdean establish-
ment. Agriculture continued long in a back-
ward condition in the parish, and it was not
till the inspiriting times of the revolution-
ary wars, that any activity or improvements
were displayed in its husbandry. Almost
every portion of the open waste land is now
brought into cultivation, and in a few years
all will be tilled. Those parts incapable of
culture, belonging to the Earl of Fife, have
been adorned by that nobleman with planta-
tions of fir and other forest trees, and the Earl
of Seafield and other proprietors have begun
to follow that excellent example- In the
parish of Keith there are three lime-works, a
tan-work, three distilleries, a brewery, two
mills for carding and spinning wool, three
grain-mills, one of which is very extensive, and
a snuff-mill, which, with the exception of one
at Inverness, is the only one north of Aber-
deen. At the lime-work of Maisly there is a
vein of sulphurate of antimony, which was
wrought for a short time, and the ore sent to
London. Fluor spar, which is of rare occur-
rence in Scotland, is also found here. In the
eastern part of the parish there are indications
of alum. About half a mile below Keith,
besides the ruins of a castle, anciently a seat
of the Oliphant family, there is a beautiful
cascade formed by the Isla. A very few years
ago the roads in the parish of Keith were
almost impassable, during a great part of
the winter and spring. There remained a
KEITH.
G07
portion of an ancient way in the western sec-
tion of the parish, which was once the main
road from Edinburgh to Inverness, and which
from being that chosen by royalty was still called
the Court Road. It has now entirely disappear-
ed, and the general thoroughfares are among
the best in Scotland. At a place called Kil-
liesmont, in this parish, there is one of those
pieces of ground, sometimes found in Scotland,
variously known by the name of the Guid-
man's Craft, or the " GPen Rig, u that is, given
or appropriated to the sole use of the devil, in
order to propitiate the good services of that
malign being. This piece of land is on the
southern declivity of a lofty eminence. At
the upper end of the ridge, there is a flat
circular stone of about eight feet in diameter,
in which there are a number of holes, but for
what purpose tradition is silent. Like other
crofts of this description in Scotland, the pre-
sent remained long uncultivated, in spite of
the spread of intelligence. The first attempt
to reclaim it was made not more than fifty
years since, when a farmer endeavoured to im-
prove it ; but, by an accidental circumstance,
it happened that no sooner had the plough en-
tered the ground than one of the oxen dropped
down dead. Taking this as an irrefragable
proof of the indignation of its supernatural
proprietor, the peasant desisted, and it remain-
ed untilled till it came into the possession of
the present occupant, who has had the good
taste to allow the large flat stone to remain,
a memorial of the idle fancies of preceding
generations. James Ferguson, the celebrated
astronomer, was a native of Rothiemay, and
spent his earliest years in the parish of Keith.
Keith, a town in the county of Banff, the
capital of the above parish, and one of the prin-
cipal towns in the shire, is situated in lat. 57°
30' north, and in long. 3° west, at the distance
of twenty miles south-west of Banff, seventeen
east-south-east of Elgin, eight east by south
of Fochabers, and twelve south of Cullen. It
is divided into three distinct towns, namely,
Old- Keith, New-Keith, and Fife- Keith, the
whole lying on the banks of the Isla, in the
centre of an amphitheatre of hills. Old- Keith,
which stands on the south bank of the Isla, is
of unknown antiquity, and by its trade and
jurisdiction of regality was of superior conse-
quence to Banff, Cullen, and Fordyce — at one
period the only other towns in the county.
The court of regality sat in the church, and
here were judged all cnme3, including the four
pleas of the crown. In early times, the mag-
nitude of the town corresponded with the im-
portance of its judicial authority, as it seems
to have stretched a good way along the stream ;
but being built in a most inconvenient irregular
manner, it was gradually abandoned, and has
latterly dwindled into a mean hamlet. On the
south-west extremity of this antique village is
the burial-ground of the parish, in which for-
merly stood the parish church, a very ancient
building, and coeval with those of Mortlach
and Fordyce. It was removed in 1819. This
old edifice and its contiguous town are not
without connexion with some moving his-
torical events. In the civil war of 1643, on
the last day of June, the armies of Baillie and
Montrose met near the church. Baillie had
the advantage of being posted on ground capa-
ble of defence, and where he could not be
assailed without great risk. When Montrose
learned the peculiarities of his adversary's posi-
tion, he sent him a message, offering to fight
him a set battle on fair ground. But the co-
venanting general answered, that he would not
receive an order to fight from an enemy. The
church-yard was the scene of a desperate skir-
mish, in the spring of 1667, between the in-
habitants of the parish and a band of outlaws,
under the command of one Patrick Roy Mac-
gregor, a Highland freebooter. The peasantry,
headed by Gordon of Auehinachy, and Gordon
of Glengarrick, succeeded in defeating these
banditti and capturing their chief, who was
conveyed to Edinburgh, and there suffered on
the gallows. In September 1700, the cele-
brated James Macpherson, who was among the
last of the Highland freebooters, was appre-
hended at a fair in Old- Keith, and was exe-
cuted at Banff, under circumstances narrated
in that article. During the civil war of 1 745,
a rencounter took place in Old- Keith, between
Captain Glasgow, an Irish officer in the French
service, and a party in the service of govern-
ment, stationed there. Glasgow completely
defeated the latter, and carried off 150 prison-
ers, whom he presented to Prince Charles at
the encampment on the banks of the Spey,
where the insurgent troops then lay. To pass
from Old to New- Keith : This modern town,
which was feued out at the middle of the last
century, is agreeably situated on the eastern
declivity of a gentle eminence, to the south-
east of Old- Keith, and consequently on the
608
KEITH.
same side of the stream. The plan of this
town is very regular, consisting of five princi-
pal streets, three furlongs ninety-six yards in
length. The distance between three of these
is I "20 yards, and between the other two, sixty
yards, the intervening spaces being appropri-
ated for gardens. Three of the streets are
complete, and a fourth is half built. The
streets are intersected at right angles by lanes
of twelve feet in width, and distant from each
other thirty yards. Near the centre of the
town is the market-place, a spacious square,
712 feet in length, and 150 wide. In this
square is the town-house, an inelegant mass of
building. There are six places of public wor-
ship in the place. The parish church, which
is of Gothic architecture, finished in 1819, is
the most conspicuous, and is perhaps the most
tastefully-built church in the north of Scot-
land. This church has a tower 10.4 feet in
height, containing two bells and a very fine
turret clock, with three dials. A handsome
Roman Catholic chapel of Roman Doric ar-
chitecture was lately erected. The plan of
it was taken from the much -admired church of
St. Maria de Vittoria at Rome, and is quite
unique in Scotland. The interior is tastefully
ornamented. A row of massy pilasters, sur-
mounted by handsome Corinthian capitals, sup-
ports a cornice of correct proportions, upon
which rests a light arched roof. Charles X.
of France, in 1828, ordered an altar-piece for
this beautiful chapel to be painted by his princi-
pal artist. It is a picture of great merit, repre-
senting the incredulity of Thomas, and the figures
are as large as life. Both the chapel and paint-
ing are much admired by visitors. The other
places of worship are two Secession meeting-
houses and an Episcopal chapel, all plain build-
ings. There is also a Methodist chapel, but it
has had neither minister nor congregation for
some years. Keith has four public libraries.
The chief is the Subscription Library estab-
lished in 1810, by the Rev. James Maclean,
the then parish minister, and a number of
other gentlemen. It consists of a very exten-
sive collection of useful and amusing works,
and the terms of subscription amount only to
a guinea of entry-money, and eight shillings of
future annual payment. Strangers are admit-
ted in a very liberal manner, on recommenda-
tion by a member. The other three libraries
are chiefly of a religious nature. There are
two public schools of good repute, besides the
parochial one. A branch of the Aberdeen
Commercial Bank has been in operation here
for sixty years. A branch of the Aberdeen
Town and County Bank was established in
1825, and a branch of the National Bank in
1826. There are some friendly and masonic
societies in the town. Keith, at one time, car-
ried on a pretty extensive trade in the yarn and
linen manufactures ; but owing to the general
introduction of cotton into this country, those
branches of trade are now almost extinct.
There are two establishments for the manufac-
ture of tobacco. The Earl of Seafield, in
1823, built a very commodious inn, con-
taining a large hall in which the courts are
held; There are four annual fairs held at
Keith, two of which are large cattle-markets.
Summer- eve fair, held in September, was at
one time the largest fair in the north of Scot-
land, and was attended by trading people and
manufacturers from Glasgow, Perth, Dundee,
and other towns in the south, who were met
by all the merchants in the western Highlands
and northerly part of the kingdom. For cattle
and horses it is still by far the greatest fair in
the north. A weekly market is held on Fri-
day, for the disposal of agricultural and other
produce ; grain is a staple commodity. Hav-
ing thus described two of the Keiths,
we now proceed to the third — Fife- Keith.
This village lies on the north side of the Isla,
opposite Old- Keith. It is of very recent
growth, dating its origin only in the year 1816.
It consists of a main street — lining the great
road from Aberdeen to Inverness — three pa-
rallel streets running south and north, and a
crescent, in a line with the course of the Isla.
There is a small neatly built square in the cen-
tre of the town, and the houses are in general
well built. It is joined to Old Keith by two
bridges over the Isla; and as Old- Keith is
connected with New- Keith by a street of 250
yards in length, the whole appears like one
town, extending in all to about a mile in
length. The government of Keith is confided
to a baron-bailie. — Population of the parish,
including the above towns, in 1821, 3926.
KEITH-HALL AND KINKELL, a
united parish in the district of Garioch, Aber-
deenshire, lying on the left banks of the Ury
and Don, which unite opposite its centre, ex-
tending about six miles in length by five in
breadth, bounded by Fintray on the south and
east, and Bourtie on the north. The district
KELSO.
609
1 s- hilly, but not mountainous. The western part,
having a fertile soil, produces good crops ; but
the eastern is in general very unfruitful. Some
parts of the parish are now under thriving plan-
tations. We are informed in the Statistical
Account that Johnston, next to Buchanan, the
best Latin poet of modern times, was born in
the parish, at a place called Caskiebean, which
he celebrates. The high constable of Dundee,
Scrymgeour, who fell at the battle of Harlaw,
was buried at Kinkell, where there is an ill-
preserved monument to his memory, with a
Latin inscription. Many others who fell in
that battle are said to have been buried at Kin-
kell, which was the principal church in that
part of the country at the time. It is related
by tradition that in this part of Aberdeenshire
a sanguinary and decisive battle was fought with
the Danes, in which the invaders were routed. —
Population of the united parish in 1821, 838.
KEITH-INCH, a promontory in the pa-
rish of Peterhead, Aberdeenshire, being the
most easterly point of land in Scotland.
KELLS, an extensive parish in the stewar-
try of Kirkcudbright, in its north-west quar-
ter, lying between the Ken on the east (which
separates it from Dairy, Balmaclellan, and
Parton,) and the Black Water of Dee,
one of its tributaries, (separating it from
Girthon and Minniegaff) on the south and west ;
Carsphairn bounds it on the north. Its ex-
tent is not less than sixteen miles, by a breadth
of nine at the widest part. The district is
altogether mountainous and pastoral, except
along the banks of the rivers in the low
grounds, where cultivation is attended to and
where there are some fine plantations, and
gentlemen's seats. Near the southern ex-
tremity of the parish, Loch Ken is formed by
the river of the same name, and from thence
a good road proceeds along the river towards
the north. In travelling in this direction there
is much pleasing scenery and some interesting
objects to attract notice- The first and most
distinguished seat is Kenmure Castle, the re-
sidence of Viscount Kenmure, an ancient cas-
tle situated upon a lofty mount overlooking the
head of Loch Ken, and approached by a noble
avenue of old trees. The older parts of this
castellated edifice are in the turretted style of
the fifteenth century, and even the more mo-
dern parts exhibit an antiquated taste. The
Viscounts Kenmure are a respectable and an-
cient branch of the family of Gordon, and were
for a long time knights of Lochinvar. The
title was granted by Charles I., in 1683, to
Sir John Gordon of Lochinvar- It was for-
feited in 1716 by William the seventh Viscount,
who was beheaded on Towerhill for his con-
cern in the insurrection of 1715. After being
thus extinct for a hundred and eight years, it
was revived in favour of the grandson of the
above unfortunate Viscount, who now enjoys
it. Near this mansion stands the royal burgh
and small town of New Galloway, already no-
ticed. A few miles further up the vale is si-
tuated Glenlee-Park, the seat of Sir William
Miller, Bart., a Senator of the College of
Justice, who has hence assumed the title of
Lord Glenlee- The lofty series of hills call-
ed Kell's Range, the most elevated and con-
spicuous mountains in Galloway, are within
the northern part of the parish. A great na-
tural curiosity is to be seen on the side of one
of these hills, namely, a rocking stone of eight
or ten tons weight, so nicely balanced on two
or three points that it moves from one to the
other by the pressure of the finger. Whether
this stone be of natural or Druidic origin is
uncertain. — Population of the parish in 1821,
1104.
KELLY- BURN, a rivulet separating the
northern part of Ayrshire from Renfrewshire,
and falling into the Firth of Clyde at the
place called Kelly-bridge port. Kelly, a gen-
tleman's seat, is in the vicinity, in Renfrew-
shire.
KELSO, a parish in the county of Rox-
burgh, lying in two almost equal parts on both
sides of the Tweed, bounded on the east by
Ednam and Sprouston, on the west by Rox-
burgh, Makerston, and Smaiiholm, and on the
north by Nenthorn. On the south the parish is
narrow, and adjoins Eckford parish. Its me-
dium length is rather more than four miles,
by a breadth of three at the widest. The
present parish comprehends the three old pa-
rochial districts of St. James, Maxwell, and
Kelso, as well as a portion of that of Rox-
burgh, including the ancient castle of Rox-
burgh. The division of the parish on the
left bank of the Tweed was within the dio-
cese of St. Andrews, while that on the south
side belonged to Glasgow, the river being here
the boundary of these ecclesiastical jurisdic-
tions. The modern parish of Kelso is one of
the most beautiful and most productive in
Scotland ; everywhere cultivation being on the
4i
610
KELSO.
best system, and the whole being enclosed and
ornamented with the most exuberant planta-
tions. The district is watered (sometimes in
too great a degree) by the Tweed and the
Tiviot, both excellent rivers for salmon and
trout fishing. On the peninsula near the junc-
tion of the streams, stands, or rather stood,
Roxburgh Castle, one of the most interesting
objects of historical and antiquarian disquisi-
tion in the country, and noticed at length un-
der its proper head.
Kelso, a considerable town of great but
unknown antiquity, the capital of the above
parish, and the largest town in the county of
Roxburgh, though not the seat of its various
jurisdictions, occupies a most delightful situa-
tion on the north bank of the Tweed, in the
midst of a rich and picturesque district, at the
distance of forty-two miles south-east of Edin-
burgh, twenty- three west from Berwick-upon-
Tweed, sixty-four from Carlisle, ten from Jed-
burgh, and about five from the nearest point of
the borders of England, which is at Carham
on the Tweed. Before describing the present
condition of this interesting place, it will be a
matter of entertainment and instruction to of-
fer a few particulars on its ancient and varied
history.* The original title of Kelso seems
to have been indifferently Calceo, Calcou,
Kalchow, Kelcow, Kelsou, besides other varia-
tions of the same word, whose etymology, ac-
cording to Chalmers, is cede and how, — the
chalk heugh, which is significant of its local
situation. Situated on the borders, it was re-
peatedly desolated by fire and sword, during
those unhappy conflicts which devastated both
countries for so many ages. Kelso, or its
immediate neighbourhood, was the usual ren-
dezvous of our armies on the eastern marches,
when the vassals were summoned either to re-
pel the invading enemy, or to retaliate on
English ground the injuries which had been
committed on their own. Kelso is also fa-
mous as a place of negotiation ; and many
truces, or treaties, were here concluded be-
tween the two nations. It was likewise fre-
quently honoured by the presence of the sove-
reigns of both kingdoms ; and derived a consi-
* To the topographical and historical account of Kel-
so, from the pen of Mr. James Haig of the Advocates'
Library, published as a goodly octavo in 1825, we have
to acknowledge particular obligations in the composition
of this article.
26
derable importance from being in the near
neighbourhood of Roxburgh Castle, with
which its history is intimately associated.
The earliest incident in the history of the
town worth mentioning, was the erection of an
abbey at the beginning of the twelfth century,
through the piety and munificence of David I.
This establishment was first settled at Sel-
kirk, but the monks not being pleased with
the situation of that place, and appreciating
the beauties of the sunny vale of the Tweed,
long before consecrated by the erection of the
Abbey of Melrose, induced David to remove
their house to Kelso, a locality much nearer
the royal residence at Roxburgh. The abbey
of Kelso, agreeably to this arrangement, was
finished in 1128, and dedicated to the Virgin
Mary and St. John the Evangelist. The
edifice was constructed in the form of a Greek
cross, in a beautiful style of Saxon or early
Norman architecture, with the exception of
four magnificent central arches, which were
of the Gothic order, and thus it differed in its
appearance from the Abbeys of Melrose and
Jedburgh, but in a style akin to the subse-
quently erected Abbey of Dryburgh. When
the latter was completed, in 1 150, no part of
Scotland, within so small space, could boast
of containing so many splendid religious
houses, and it may be supposed that when in
full operation the whole of this beautiful dis-
trict would be a complete halidome, teeming
with ecclesiastics, the only learned men of
their times, a great part of whom were foreign-
ers ; and that a society would be formed of a
comparatively refined description. Such a con-
centration of churchmen, we may conjecture,
would be much enhanced by the occasional re-
sidence of the bishops of Glasgow at Ancrum.
The monks of Kelso were of a more useful
class than the others, being of the order of
Tyronenses, who, as may be seen at large in
one of our preliminary dissertations, were ad-
mitted only when instructed in some branch
of science or art ; their house at this place was,
therefore, a college of industrious artisans,
among whom were found painters, sculptors,
joiners, locksmiths, masons, vine dressers,
horticulturists, &c. who were employed over
a wide district of country, and brought
their earnings into one common fund for
general maintenance. By the rules of the
society, the members were enjoined to po-
verty; but luxury and the love of ease, in-
KELSO.
Oil
herent in human nature, fostered by the
endowments of pious princes, in time injur-
ed the primitive character of the association,
and ultimately tended to bring about the Re-
formation of religion. David, the founder,
gave to this house the monastery of Lesmaha-
gow, with all its lands and all its men ; as also
the privilege of sanctuary, which that monastery
enjoyed ; and before the end of the thirteenth
century, it had thirty-four parish churches, se-
veral manors, many lands, granges, farms, mills,
breweries, fishings, rights of cutting turf, salt-
works, and other possessions, spread over the
several shires of Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles,
Lanark, Dumfries, Ayr, Edinburgh, Berwick,
and even as far north as Aberdeenshire. David
II, (1329-32) further granted to the monks the
whole forfeitures of all the rebels within Ber-
wick. Owing to the enormous wealth they
thus enjoyed, the abbot was reputed to be more
opulent than most of the bishops in Scotland,
and he was, at least, nearly as powerful, as he
had received a mitre from the Pope, in the
year 1165. At the Reformation, after many
previous injuries, this splendid establishment
was violently broken up, and the edifice being
destroyed, it is now in that ruinous condition
we shall soon have occasion to describe. Its
immense property was confiscated by the crown,
and, in the year 1594, was parcelled among the
greedy favourites of the court. No event of
historical importance appears to have occurred
at Kelso, prior to the reign of William the
Lion, when, in 1209, the bishop of Rochester
left his see in England, sod lame to take re-
fuge in the town, the krngaoms of England
and Wales having been laid under an interdict
by the Pope, on account of the contumacy of
King John. William de Valoines, Lord
Chamberlain of Scotland, died at Kelso in the
year 1219, and was buried at Melrose. In
the course of the visit of Henry III. of Eng-
land and his Queen, to their relative, Alexan-
der III. at Roxburgh, these personages, with
a splendid retinue, were introduced with great
pomp into Kelso, and sumptuously banqueted
in the abbey, in the company of most of the
Scottish nobility. Truces between the kings
of England and Scotland were made at Kelso
in 1380 and in 1391. James II. on being
unfortunately killed at the siege of Roxburgh,
on the 3d of August 1460, by the bursting of a
caunon,vvas carried to Edinburgh for interment,
and his widowed Queen, the pious Mary of
Gueldres, with her infant soli, being at the
time in the camp, she brought him to the no-
bles, who, availing themselves of the opportu-
nity of their being assembled with the royal
army, conducted him to the abbey, where he
was crowned with great solemnity, and re-
ceived their oaths of fidelity and allegiance.
In 1487, commissioners met at Kelso to pro-
long a truce then about to expire, in order to af-
ford time for concluding a treaty of marriage
between the eldest son of James III. and the
eldest daughter of Edward IV. The fakal
battle of Flodden, in 1513, does not seem
to have been attended with injury to Kelso ;
but we learn that the abbey, unprotected by
the king, was seized on the following night by
one Carr, a friend or dependant of Lord Hume,
who turned the abbot out of the monastery,
and took possession of it. This was the first
of a series of troubles, which ended in the dis-
solution of the house. During the subsequent
minority of James V. the Duke of Albany, as
governor of the kingdom, arrived in Kelso in
the year 1515, in his journey through the coun-
try, for the purpose of ascertaining the mea-
sures proper to be adopted, in order to put a '
stop to the murders and robberies then so fre -
quent. Here the people presented many
heavy complaints against Lord Hume, the
Earl of Angus, and others, who, by their feud8
and oppressions, tormented this district of the
kingdom. Seven years later, in 1522, Kelso
and the adjoining district received the first
shock of the war entered into by Henry
VIII. in resentment for the continued do-
mination of the Regent Albany. The fleet
of the English sovereign, under the Earl of
Shrewsbury, having arrived in the Forth,
the forces were landed and marched into the
interior, laying the country waste in their
route ; and in their progress being joined by
Lord Dacre, they entered Kelso, one half of
which they destroyed by fire ; the other they
plundered, and falling upon the abbey, they re-
duced the vaults, the houses adjoining, and
the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, (in which
some beautiful Episcopal seats or stalls were
constructed,) to a heap of ruins. They also
burnt all the cells and dormitories ; and what
is still worse, they unroofed all the houses of
the monastery, carrying off the lead with
which they were covered. From the interrup-
tion to all kinds of work arising from those
aggressions, the walls fell into a state of <?e-
612
KELSO.
cay, and for some time continued to fall down
piecemeal. During the time the abbey con-
tinued in this state, the monks resorted to the
adjoining villages, where they, reduced to a
state of great poverty and want, celebrated
divine worship. Kelso again suffered simi-
lar misfortunes in the war of 1542, levied
by Henry VIII. in his rage against the king
of Scots. In the course of the march of
the English forces through the district of the
eastern marches, under the duke of Norfolk,
they arrived at Kelso, which, in spite of the
army of Huntly which hovered on the Lam-
mermoor hills, they burnt along with the ab-
bey, destroying at the same time several neigh-
bouring villages. In the year 1545, Henry, a
third time enraged at the Scots, on account
of their refusing to give the young princess
Mary in marriage to his son, afterwards Ed-
ward VI., sent in a hostile army by the
eastern marches, under the Earl of Hert-
ford, who plundered and destroyed Jedburgh
and Kelso, at the same time ravaging the
neighbouring villages and hamlets. This
Jamentable event once more brought ruin to
'the abbey, which was again burnt, but not
till it had held out a short siege ; being man-
fully defended by three hundred Scotsmen,
who were at length forced to yield to an over-
powering force, after a great number had been
slain. The towns and villages burnt on this
occasion amounted to five score, and the ab-
beys destroyed were those of Kelso, Jedburgh,
Melrose and Dryburgh. In 1557 Kelso was
again involved in a border war. The queen
regent, Mary of Loraine, having collected
a numerous army, it was marched to Kelso,
under the command of the Earl of Arran ;
where being joined by the French with their
artillery, it crossed the Tweed, and encamped
at Maxwell-heugh, a village about half a mile
distant from the town, and afterwards proceed-
ed to Wark castle, which, however, they were
not able to reduce. It was therefore thought
advisable to withdraw the army, leaving only
a garrison at Kelso and Roxburgh, for the pro-
tection of the Borders. An annoying war to
both sides now ensued, and Kelso being near-
est to danger, was put into a state of defence by
Lord James Stuart, afterwards Earl of Moray,
who along with the Queen Regent, and the
French general D'Oysel, concerted measures
here for the defence of the kingdom. The
year 1560 witnessed the final destruction of
the abbey by the reformers. Having expelled
the monks, they first plundered the edifice of
its most valuable materials, and then the great
altar with all the images of a combustible na-
ture were committed to the flames. One year
after this event, Mary Queen of Scots, having
now the reins of government in her own
hand, commissioned Lord James, with James,
Earl of Bothwell as his assistant, to be her
lieutenant and judge over this border district,
at that time open to every species of robbery.
In 1566, Mary herself visited Kelso in the
course of her expedition to repress disturbances
on the borders, remaining two nights in the
town. At a subsequent era, in the reign of
James VI. (1594), Kelso and the border
country around it were subjected to the vexa-
tious marches and warlike operations carried
on by the lairds of Cessford and Buccleugh
against Francis Stewart, Earl of Bothwell,
which ended in the expatriation of the latter.
In the reign of Charles I. Kelso comes again
into notice, having, in 1639, been made the
quarters of a detachment of the covenanting
army sent to oppose the king. According
to Law's Memorials, Kelso was totally de-
stroyed by an accidental fire in the month of
March 1684. We believe that the town was
assisted in being re- built by a general contri-
bution throughout the country, as a public pro-
clamation was made for that purpose. About
eighty years ago, says Mr. Haig, it met with
nearly a similar fate ; and since that period, it
has suffered considerably at different times,
from the acts of wilful incendiaries. So frequent
at one time were the attempts at wilful fire-
raising, that the inhabitants were put into a state
of the utmost consternation, and it was deemed
necessary to institute a nightly watch for their
safety. The next historical incident connected
with Kelso occurred in 1715, during the dis-
turbances of the civil war. Invited by the pro-
mising appearance of a rising in the north of
England, Macintosh of Borlum, with his party
in the Jacobite interest, departed from Seton
house, whither they had come from Leith,
and arrived at Kelso, where they effected a
junction with the forces from Northumber-
land and Nithsdale. Thus increased in mag-
nitude, they remained in Kelso a few days,
and proclaimed James VIII- at the market
cross ; at length, hearing of the approach of
General Carpenter, by way of Wooler, it was
agreed to retire from the town, which was
KELSO.
r,i3
speedily done, and taking the road to the south
by Jedburgh, the whole proceeded to Preston,
where they were surrounded by the govern-
ment troops, and forced to surrender piisoners
at discretion. On the occasion of the civil
war of 1745, Kelso a second time sustained,
against the inclinations of the inhabitants,
a visit from an army of the house of
Stuart. Prince Charles, on departing from
Edinburgh southward, headed a division of
4000 men, who took the route to England in
this direction. After a stay of a single day,
and having sent a small party down the
Tweed to Carham, as the nearest English
ground, to proclaim King James, he marched
towards Carlisle by Hawick and Langholm.
With the departure of this prince, the last of
a long line of kings who had, in many in-
stances, been munificent patrons of Kelso,
closes its historical memoirs. Since this event
it has steadily increased in size, opulence, and
respectability, and has attained a high rank
among the provincial Scottish towns. The
beauty of the situation of Kelso, which is
hardly excelled by any in this country, is not
more striking than the cleanliness, the sub-
stantiality, and the city-like appearance of the
town itself. Built, as we have said, on a
plain on the north or left bank of the Tweed,
and indebted to the great fire of 1 684 and sub-
sequent conflagrations for the restoration of
its houses in a modern and uniform style, it
consists of a spacious square or market-place,
with four streets and some considerable wynds,
diverging from it in different directions. The
principal street, which bears the name of
Roxburgh Street, is upwards of a quarter of
a mile in length, and is esteemed the most
healthy, as it certainly is the most pleasant,
in the town, running in a parallel direction
with the river. Bridge Street, though not
equal to Roxburgh Street in extent, surpasses
it in general appearance, as it contains many
elegant houses. The market-place is chiefly
composed of modern buildings, containing the
principal shops, and from its aspect would not
be unworthy of the metropolis. In very few
towns are the houses built so lofty or with so
dignified an air, and in still fewer is there
seen such regularity and general neatness.
Some handsome villas embellish the environs,
and there are some pleasing residences close
upon the Tweed, standing amidst luxuriant
gardens and shrubberies. From the bridge
across the stream, which is here of a much
enlarged size, being just augmented by the
Tiviot on its right bank, the view up or
down is equally delightful, and can perhaps
be only matched by the prospect from the
bridge of Perth. The view up the stream to
the west is met, on the south side, by the
the woody locality whereon once stood the
castle of Roxburgh, and, on the opposite side,
by the plantations and pleasure-grounds of
Fleurs, the princely seat of the Roxburghe
family, which is seen on the face of a declin-
ing bank. A pretty little verdant islet, orna-
mented with a few shrubs, lies in the centre
of the river, in the foreground, and assists in
forming one of the most charming pictures.
The bridge of Kelso, which was erected in
the year 1800 to supply the place of the for-
mer bridge, swept away by a flood in 1797, and
which cost altogether with its approaches about
L. 18,000, is the best on the Tweed, and is
of the most elegant proportions. It consists
of five elliptical arches, and is the model of
Waterloo bridge over the Thames. Rennie
was the architect of both. Unfortunately it
has been necessary to subject the passage to
a pontage both for carriages and foot passen-
gers. Recently this toll let for L.900perannum.
In entering Kelso by this thoroughfare from
the south, the stranger passes on his right hand
the conspicuous ruin of the abbey church, still
noble in its decay. It stands almost close upon
the street, but is secluded from intrusion by a
rail. Of the very extensive erections little
now remains but the .transept, and the great
central tower, which rises to the height of about
ninety feet. The arches are clustered with
admirable strength and beauty, and those which
support the lantern are more magnificent than
any in the island, except those of York Min-
ster. The building was begun to be used as
a parish church, at an unknown period subse-
quent to the Reformation, and continued as
such till within the last sixty years, when pub-
lic worship was discontinued in it, on account
of its dangerous state. The modern additions
which had been made, either to render it use-
ful as a church or for some other cause, till
lately greatly disfigured its ancient simplicity
and beauty ; such were, however, removed by
the two last Dukes of Roxburghe, and now
the side arches and several windows are expos-
ed to view- In consequence of an apprehen-
sion that the ruin, from its decayed condition,
614
K E h S O.
would soon fall, the heritors and others sub-
scribed L.500 to keep it in repair, and it was
rendered firm and durable in the most tasteful
manner, under the professional and gratuitous
superintendence of Mr. Gillespie Graham.
Next to the ruin of the Abbey church, the
most prominent object, in the character of a
public edifice, is the Town House, a modern
building in the Grecian style, of considerable
elegance ; it has a good situation on the east
side of the market-place, and is surmounted
by a neat spire. The other public erections,
as churches, &c. do not bear or require de-
scription. The government of the town,
(which was originally a burgh of regality,) is
vested in a baron bailie, appointed by the Duke
of Roxburghe, assisted by fifteen stent-masters
or councillors, who act in conjunction with
him in the assessment of the inhabitants. Of
these stent-masters, his Grace has the nomina-
tion of eight, who hold their appointment for
two years ; the others are elected annually by
the different corporations, of which there are
five. The bailie holds a court eveiy Saturday,
for the recovery of small debts within the ju-
risdiction of the town ; and the justices of the
peace sit here once a- month for the recovery of
small debts within the county. The streets
are kept in a very cleanly condition, a cart with
a bell, taking away, as in Edinburgh, all the
refuse of the domiciles. Though not ranking
as a manufacturing or commercial town, Kelso
enjoys a considerable trade, from being the
chief seat of population in a wide agricultural
district, which affords employment and support
to a numerous body of the working classes.
The first and principal branch is the dressing
of lamb and sheep skins, the tanning of hides,
and the currying of leather, all which are car-
ried on to a great extent ; the number of lamb
and sheep skins dressed annually, amounts, on
an average, to not less than I00 ; 000. Pork is
here cured to a great extent, and finds a
ready sale in the English market. The manu-
facture of flannel is pretty extensive, as is also
that of different kinds of linen. Woollen cloth
is likewise made here, but not in any great
quantity. The manufacture of hats forms an
important branch of the trade of the town, and
the quantity of stockings made annually is con-
siderable. Boot and shoe-making is carried
on upon a very large scale, supplying not oidy
the town and neighbourhood, but the different
fair& Rnd maifeets in the nortit of England,
where immense quantities are disposed of.
The town has a great variety of respectable
shops, dealing in nearly all kinds of goods for
inland consumpt. A distillery upon a large
scale was commenced shortly after the law was
passed, allowing the introduction of whisky
into England. A severe drawback upon
nearly all manufactures, as well as the gene-
ral comfort of the town, is the absence of coal
in the neighbourhood, this article having to
be carted from a great distance. Kelso
has a weekly market on Friday for the sale of
corn by sample, and is the best attended in the
county. There are besides twelve monthly
markets, or fairs, which, by a recent regulation
of the Border Agricultural Society, are held
on the third Friday after the Coldstream mar-
ket, which is permanently fixed to take place
on the last Thursday of each month. Besides
these markets there are four annual fairs ; the
first held on the second Friday of May ; the
second, or Summer fair, on the second Friday
in July; the third, St. James' fair, on the
fifth of August ; and the fourth, or Winter
fair, on the second of November. The privi-
lege of holding St. James' fair was originally
granted to the burgh of Roxburgh, but that
town being now extinct, it is ranked with
the Kelso fairs, although it is still held on
the spot once occupied by Roxburgh, about a
mile from the town. This fair is the largest,
for its show of horses and cattle, in the south
of Scotland — St. Boswell's excepted. Kelso
has a neat butcher market, fitted up in the
style of the high market at Edinburgh. The
trade of Kelso, and its vicinity, is aided by
branches of the Bank of Scotland and Com-
mercial Bank ; the former was settled here as
early as 1774 — a great antiquity for a Scot-
tish Branch Bank. The town has also a
Savings Bank. There are seven places of
public worship in Kelso — the Parochial church
(a very inelegant edifice) an Episcopal chapel,
(a tasteful Gothic building on the banks of the
Tweed) and a Relief, Burgher, Antiburgher,
Cameronian, and Quaker meeting-house. The
town possesses a good Grammar-school for
the learned languages, and an English school,
also some private schools, including those for
female education, and two Sunday schools; —
a charity school was instituted in 1816. The
inhabitants support an excellent subscription
library, of the date 1795, and some others
less extensive. Some years ago one of those
KELSO.
G15
valuable establishments, named Schools of
Arts, was begun here with every prospect of
success. Kelso has the credit of publishing
a newspaper, which has a good circidation on
the borders. It is entitled the Kelso Mail,
and was begun in 1797. It is published on
Mondays and Thursdays. There was at one
time another paper, which has been lately
discontinued. A public Dispensary was esta-
blished in a healthy situation, at the head of
the town, in 1 789, chiefly by the philanthropic
exertions of Mrs. Baillie of Jerviswood, and,
as it also answers the purposes of an Infirmary,
it has been of great benefit to the place. Kelso
owns several benefit societies, and two lodges
of free masons, besides two or three clubs.
An association composed of the noblemen and
gentlemen residing in this quarter, styled the
Bowmen of the Border, was instituted in 1768,
by a diploma from the Royal Company of
Archers. Kelso has been long celebrated for
its horse-races. About ten years since a very
suitable new course was opened at the request
of the Duke of Roxburghe, and prepared by
the voluntary labour of the inhabitants, at the
distance of a mile to the northward of the
town. There is an excellent stand on the
model of that at Doncaster. Races are here
run twice in the year — in Spring and Autumn,
and never fail to attract a concourse of persons,
of the upper ranks, from both sides of the bor-
der. The Royal Caledonian Hunt meets
occasionally, and during the stay of the noble-
men and gentlemen of that association the
town presents a more than ordinarily gay appear-
ance ; and at this period, and while the races last,
brilliant assemblies are held almost every even-
ing. The town possesses a neat small thea-
tre, in which scenic representations take place
generally in the summer season. This place
of public amusement was first fitted up by a
body of French officers, who were here as pri-
soners on parole, during the Jast war, and who,
in gratitude for the polite attention and kind
treatment they had experienced, left the whole
standing, with all the scenery and decorations,
as a present to the town. The beauty of the
scenery around Kelso, and the neat city-like
appearance of the town, are not more observa-
ble by strangers than the polite manners of
the inhabitants, which, as Mr. Haig says, may
be traced to the place being " the resort of all
the fashion in the vicinity, and of numerous
visitors of the first rank in both kingdoms.
The higher classes are allowed to be affable
and courteous in their address, and benevolent
and liberal in their dispositions. The middle
classes are polite and obliging, hospitable and
friendly. The poorer orders are, in general,
sober, honest, and industrious. The upper
ranks dress in the first style of fashion, and
the balls and assemblies present an elegance of
female attire not to be exceeded out of the me-
tropolis." Notwithstanding the well-known af-
fability and hospitality of the people of Kelso,
whose peculiarities in this respect are by no
means only of modern date, the town, by some
strange fatality, is the subject of a popular pro-
verbial expression of a contrary import. The
phrase is " a Kelso convoy," which has been in
use from time immemorial in the Lowlands of
Scotland, to signify the circumstance of being
accompanied by one's host no farther than the
threshold, or rather, as it is commonly termed,
" a step and a half ower the door-stane." The
origin of this stigma upon the hospitality of
Kelso is unknown; but, that the reader may
the better understand the extent of satire which
it implies, it is necessary to inform him, that
at all old Scottish mansion-houses, there was a
tree at some distance from the door, called the
coglin tree, (variously the covan tree,) .where
the landlord met his guests, and to which he
always accompanied them uncovered, when
they took their departure. In old society, ac-
customed to such punctilio, and with whom
any neglect of the laws of hospitality was held
more heinous than at least two of the pleas of
the crown, it is easy to conceive how the cold-
ness of a Kelso convoy would be appreciated. —
Population of the town in 1821, about 4000,
including the parish, 4860-
KELTIE WATER, a rivulet in the pa-
rish of Callander, Perthshire, a tributary of
the Teith.
KELTON, a parish in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, somewhat of a triangular figure,
with its apex to the north, having its western-
side presented to the river Dee, which se-
parates it from Tongland and Balmaghie,
bounded on the north by Crossmichael, on the
east by Buittle, and on the south by Rerrick
and Kirkcudbright. The length of the parish
is about six miles by a breadth nearly as great
at the widest part. The present parish com-
prehends the three ancient parochial divisions
of Kelton, Gelston, and Kirkcormack. The
surface is uneven, and in some parts hilly, but
610
KELVIN.
in the northern district it is chiefly flat, though
not characterised for its fertility. In this
Quarter is situated the modem thriving town of
Castle Douglas, which has been already no-
ticed. From one to two miles south from
thence is the Kirk of Kelton, and near it is
the village of Keltonhill, a place once noted
for its great annual horse-market, on the 17th
of June O- S., now transferred to a more eli-
gible locality at Castle Douglas. — Population
in 1821, 2416.
KELTON, a sea-port village on the east
side of the embouchure of the Nith, Dumfries-
shire.
KELTY, a small village in the parish of
Cleish, Kinross-shire, five miles south from
Kinross.
KELVIN, a river equally belonging to Stir-
ling, Dumbarton, and Lanarkshires. It ori-
ginates at a place called Kelvin- Head on the
borders of the parishes of Kilsyth and Cum-
bernauld, from whence it flows, a mere rivu-
let, in a direct south-westerly course, not reck-
oning small sinuosities, fifteen miles, dividing
Stirlingshire from Dumbartonshire and Lanark-
shire, when turning towards the south-east, it
flows a few miles in that direction, and again
wheeling into a south-westerly course, it flows
into the Clyde about two miles below Glasgow.
This river resembles the Leven in Fife, though
not large, being of similar importance in
communicating a water-power to mills, and of
equal use to bleachfields. Having a natural
tendency to overflow its banks, its channel has
been in many places greatly improved by
straightening and banking up. While entering
the parish of New or East Kilpatrick, a few
miles from its mouth, it passes beneath an
aqueduct bridge of the Forth and Clyde Canal,
which is 350 feet in length, 57 feet broad, and
57 feet in height The bridge is of four
arches, each 50 feet in span, and 37 feet high ;
it is reckoned one of the chief objects of inte-
rest in this part of the country. Before steam-
power came so much into use, the Kelvin was
chosen for the settlement of a great number of
mills, mostly in the proprietary of houses in
Glasgow. These and other trading character-
istics on its banks have very much detracted
from the original beauty and romantic appear-
ance of the scenery through which it passes,
which has furnished a theme for at least one
beautiful Scottish song ; but still the Kelvin
is not destitute of a variety of delightful land-
scapes throughout its course, and is well
worthy of the visits of the tourist. The
above canal pursues a line parallel to and at a
short distance from the Kelvin on its south
side.
KEMBACK, a parish in Fife, lying be-
tween the parishes of St. Andrews and Ceres,
and Cupar, and having Dairsie and part of Leu-
chars on the north : The river Eden is the
boundary with the two latter. Its length and
breadth is about three or three and a half miles,
being somewhat triangular in its figure, with
the broadest side to the Eden. This parish
is not very level in its surface, but it is one of
the richest and most beautiful districts in Fife,
having now many fine plantations, everywhere
the best enclosures, and a variety of improve-
ments. Freestone, coal, and limestone abound.
—Population in 1821, 634.
KEMNAY, a parish in Aberdeenshire,
lying with its western side on the Don, which
separates it from Chapel- of- Garioch and Mo-
nymusk. Inverury, also separated from it by
the Don, lies on the north. It is bounded by
Kintore on the east, and Cluny on the south.
The length of the parish parallel with the
Don is between four and five miles ; the
breadth being not more than two. The dis-
trict is arable adjacent to the river, and in the
low parts. Kemnay house is pleasantly si-
tuated among plantations and pleasure-grounds,
near the centre of the parish. — Population in
1821, 657.
KEN, a river in the stewartiy of Kirkcud-
bright, rising in the upper part of the north-
west division of that district, and in its course
separating it into two almost equal divisions.
The Ken rises in the parishes of Carsphairn
and Dairy, and its first tributary is the Dough
water, or rather we may say the Ken is a tri-
butary of the Deugh, for it appears the most
direct fountain of the river. After this junc-
tion the Ken flows in a south-easterly direc-
tion for about eight miles, separating the pa-
rish of Kells from Dairy and Balmaclellan,
when it expands into a lake, termed Loch
Ken, which extends four and a half miles in
length, by half a mile in general breadth, and
is continued nearly an equal length under the
name of the Dee, in consequence of that
water falling into it on the west side. The
waters of the joint rivers fall into the Solway
firth at Kirkcudbright. The vale of the Ken,
and the district adjacent on both sides is usual ■
K E N M O R E.
617
ly 6tyled Glenkens, and enjoys a high reputation
in the south of Scotland for its peculiarly fine
breed of sheep.
KENETHMONT, or KINNETH-
MONT, a parish in Aberdeenshire, hav-
ing Gartly on the north, Insch on the east,
Leslie and Clatt on the southland Clatt on the
west. It extends six miles in length from
east to west, by three in breadth, and is six
miles from Huntly. The surface is diversi-
fied with hills and eminences, and is generally
productive, with a variety of plantations. Ke-
nethmont has a parish in whole, or in part,
annexed to it, named Christ's Kirk, the
church of which is in ruins. — Population in
1821,974.
KENLOWIE, a small stream in the
eastern part of Fife, parish of St. Andrews.
KENMORE, a parish in the Highland
district of Breadalbane, Perthshire, surrounding
the large beautiful lake called Loch Tay;
bounded on the north by Fortingall, on the east
by Dull, on the south and west by Comrie,
Killin, and Weem ; twenty-one miles in length
from east to west, by an irregular breadth of
five to twelve. There is also a large detached
portion of this parish, a considerable way to
the west, in the beautiful and sequestered vale
of Glenlochay. Kenmore signifies " the great
head," and we must therefore suppose that
the origin of the name is reflective. Loch
Tay, which in some measure gives figure and
character to the parish, is twenty- one miles
long, a breadth of about one, and from that to
two miles ; the great river Tay issuing from
its north-east extremity. The banks of this
loch are densely peopled by a race of small
crofters, who, having been permitted to remain
upon the paupera regna of their fathers, while
the greater part of the country around is thrown
into sheep farms, form a rather extraordinary
feature in the population of the Highlands. It
is to the benevolence of the earl of Breadalbane,
the proprietor of the parish — we ought to say of
the province — that we are indebted for this ex-
isting memorial of a former state of things. The
parochial church is situated at the village of Ken-
more, at the north-east extremity of the parish ;
but this disadvantage is now counterbalanced by
the establishment of various subsidiary places of
worship in different parts of the district With
the exception of the banks of the lake, where
the crofters have their little patches of potato
ground and their humble clay-built cottages, the
parish is generally mountainous ; Ben Lawers,
which is 4015 feet high, rises on the north-
east side of the loch. The waters of Loch
Tay seldom or never freeze, and it is remark-
able that they are occasionally liable to strong
agitations, which only can be accounted for on
the supposition that they are connected with
earthquakes in other parts of the world.
The loch abounds in salmon and other fish.
The clean, elegant village of Kenmore, with
its church, its inn, and its few white cottages,
occupies a lovely eminence at the north-east
end of the loch, close by the point where it
opens into a river. Over that river is thrown
a handsome bridge of three arches. Ken-
more ranks unquestionably as among the most
beautiful villages in Scotland ; a kind of ob-
ject, it must be confessed, which Scotland does
not as yet possess in great numbers, while it
is decidedly one of the most remarkable fea-
tures of the sister kingdom. It is a favourite
point in a tour to the Highlands, and hence is
much visited in summer. In the fine alluvial
vale below the village, are the park and castle
of Taymouth, the seat of the Earl of Bread-
albane. The original name of this place was
Balloch, from its situation at the bottom of a
lake. It became the property of the Bread-
albane branch of the Argyle family in the six-
teenth century, ere it was as yet ennobled.
Sir Colin Campbell, ancestor of the earls, built
the castle in 1580. Within the last few years,
the Earl of Breadalbane has improved the ori-
ginal narrow residence of his fathers into a
splendid modern castellated mansion, consist-
ing of one huge square tower, with turrets at
the corners, after the fashion of Inverlochy,
together with several additional portions of
less altitude, but equally beautiful architecture.
The varied turretted outline of the building ren-
ders it one of the most pleasing architectural
objects in the whole kingdom. The park,
which spreads away around the house till it
meets the fine wooded hills which rise on
all sides except towards the lake, is laid out
in admirable taste, and has few equals in
beauty. Within Taymouth castle is a large
collection of portraits of the principal person-
ages of the reign of Charles I., painted by
the Scottish Vandyke, Jamieson of Aber-
deen ; in addition to which, are many fine
miscellaneous pictures and portraits, rendering
" the Breadalbane gallery" one of the best in
Scotland. At the opposite extremity of Loch
4k
613
KERERA.
Tay, near the village of Killin, is a little is-
land, whereon Alexander I. founded a small
priory, in 1 122 ; it was dependent on the abbey
of Scone. Sybilla, consort of Alexander I.,
was buried there. The Earl of Breadalbane
has, by his charters, liberty to fish for salmon
upon Loch Tay at all seasons, without any
regard to statutory restriction. The privilege,
it is said, was intended for supplying the nuns,
who lived in this convent with fish. — Popula-
tion in 1821, 3347.
KENNET, otherwise NEW KENNET,
a neat small village, of modern growth, in the
parish and county of Clackmannan, in the pro-
prietary of the family of Bruce of Kennet — a
seat in the vicinity. About a mile south from
thence, at a place on the coast of the Firth of
Forth called Kennet- Pans, there has long been
a considerable distillery.
KENNOWA Y, a parish in the county of
Fife, extending from north to south about four
miles, by nearly an equal breadth at the widest
part, bounded on the north by Kettle, on the
east by Scoonie, on the south by part of
Wemyss and Markinch, and on the west alto-
gether by Markinch. The whole parish lies
with a pleasing exposure to the south, and is in
the present day nearly altogether under the
most productive tillage or thriving plantations,
and is well enclosed. The village of Ken-
noway, situated twelve miles north-east of
Kinghorn, and eight south-west of Cupar, is
built along the top of a Yery beautiful and ro-
mantic den, the sides of which are steep and
rocky, and contain some caves. Besides the
parish church there is a meeting-house of the
United Associate Synod. The inhabitants
are chiefly employed as linen weavers ; the
place has two annual fairs. Population of the
parish and village in 1821, 1649.
KERERA or KERRERA, an island
belonging to Argyleshire, in the Sound of
Mull opposite Oban, at the distance of five
miles from Mull, and one from the mainland,
on which Oban is situated. Kerera measures
four miles in length by two in breadth ; " but,"
says an intelligent traveller who visited it,
" excepting on its shores, it has no features of
any kind to attract attention, unless it be the
inequality and confusion of the surface, which
is extreme. Not only is there nothing like
level ground, but the hilly parts are so steep
and frequent, the valleys so deep, and the
whole so intermixed, that the toil of walking
26.
over it is incredible. Its want of beauty is
however much recompensed by the noble pros -
pects which it affords of the bay of Oban, and
of that magnificent range of mountains which
encloses the Linnhe Loch, with all the islands
that are scattered about its variegated sea. The
southern shore of the island affords one very
wild and picturesque scene, of which Gylen
Castle proves the chief object. On the mar-
gin of a high cliff impending over the sea is
perched this tall grey tower ; the whole bay,
rude with rocks and cliffs, presenting no traces
of land or of verdure ; appearing as if it had,
for uncounted ages, braved the fury of the waves
that break in from over the whole breadth of
the inlet and far out to sea. A scene more
savage and desolate, and more in character
with the deserted and melancholy air of this
solitary dwelling, that seems to shun all the
haunts of man, is not easily conceived. This
castle must have belonged to the Macdougalls,
as it is of a date at least equal to Dunolly, and
to the times when this family were lords of
Lorn. It was in Kerera that Alexander II.
died, (July 8, 1249,) when preparing to invade
the western islands, then under the supreme
dominion of Norway and of Haco. The tale
has something of the superstition of the times,
when there was a solution for every dream in
its being a warning from the land of shadows.
As his majesty lay in his bed, there appeared
to him three men ; one of them dressed in royal
garments, with a red face, squinting eyes, and
a terrible aspect, the second being very young
and beautiful with a costly dress, and a third
of a larger stature than either, and of a still
fiercer countenance than the first. The last
personage demanded of him whether he meant
to subdue the islands, and on receiving his
assent, advised him to return home ; which
warning he having neglected, died. The three
persons were supposed to be St. Olave, St.
Magnus, and St. Columba ; although what in-
terest the latter could have in taking part with
the two Norwegian saints, does not appear ; as
the piratical invaders of that country had been
early and bitter enemies to his monastery.
There is a short ferry from this island, though
an indirect one, to Oban, constituting a part of
the greater ferry to Mull, and therefore well
known to all tourists."
KERSHOPE BURN, a rivulet belong-
ing equally to England and Scotland, rising in
the heights on the east side of the parish of
KILBAHCHAN.
619
Castletown, Roxburghshire, and running a
course of about eight miles, forms, from head
to foot, with very small exceptions, the bound-
ary of the two kingdoms. It falls into the
Liddel about four miles below the village of
Castletown, and abounds in trout of an excel-
lent quality.
KE T, a rivulet in Wigtonshire, which pass-
ing Whithorn, falls into the sea at the bay
termed Port Yarrock.
KETTINS, a parish in the south-west
corner of Forfarshire, extending three miles
and a half in breadth from east to west, and
four miles and a half in length, bounded on the
east by Newtyle and Lundie, and on the
west by Cupar- Angus in Perthshire. The dis-
trict has a pleasant exposure to the valley of
Strathmore, on the northern descent of the Sid-
law hills ; the greater part is now well culti-
vated, enclosed, and embellished with planta-
tions. It possesses several fine seats and some
villages, that of Kettins being the largest. It
has also some bleachfields. The road from
Perth to Forfar passes through the parish. The
church of Kettins, prior to the Reformation,
belonged to the ministry of the Red Friars at
Peebles,— Population in 1821, 1215.
KETTLE, a parish in the county of Fife,
extending nearly eight miles from north-west
to south-east, by a breadth of about three
miles and a half in the middle part, bounded
by Falkland on the west, Markinch, Kenno-
way, and Scoonie on the south, Cults on the
east, and by Collessie on the north. The pa-
rish forms a large portion of that rich and
beautiful territory on the north side of the
Howe of Fife, and, whatever was its original
condition, it is now under.an excellent system
of cultivation. The small river Eden, with a
slight exception, bounds the district on its
northern side, and in this quarter the land is
still moorish. The parish contains two vil-
lages, styled Kettle and Hole-Kettle ; the
latter is of small size, and lies on the main
road through Fife to Cupar. Kettle, the ca-
pital of the parish, is situated away from all
thoroughfare, in the lower ground, about a mile
to the north-west, at the distance of 6 J miles
south-west from Cupar. It is inhabited chiefly
by weavers, and besides the church has a Relief
meeting-house. The strange name of Kettle
is of very obscure etymology, and all that can
be said of it is, that anciently it was called
Katul ; in common phraseology it is invariably
entitled the Kettle. At one period the pa-
rish was denominated King's Kettle, from be-
ing the property of the crown. — Population of
the parish, in 1821, 2046.
KIL, or KILL. When names of places
begin with this adjunct, it is generally import-
ed that the place was originally the cell or her-
mitage of a saint, whose name is frequently
found forming the second half of the appella-
tion. In the Highland districts, Kil as often
implies a burial-place.
KILARROW See Killarrow.
KILBAGIE, a place in the parish and
county of Clackmannan, celebrated for the
whisky which has been long manufactured at
its extensive distillery. We feel inclined to
suggest that it must have anciently been the
spot on which stood the cell or residence of
St. Bega, a pious virgin, who flourished in
Scotland in an early age, and for a notice of
whose life, Camerarius refers to the history of
the Sinclairs and others.
KILBARCHAN, a parish in Renfrew-
shire, lying like a peninsula betwixt the river
Gryfe (which separates it from Houston) on
the north, and the Black Cart (which separates
it from the Abbey parish of Paisley) on the
south-east. Lochwinnoch chiefly bounds it
on the south. It extends between six and se-
ven miles in length, by a breadth of nearly
four at the widest end. In the quarter near
the junction of the above rivers, the land is of a
mossy nature ; in other places, the parish has
undergone various improvements as to cultiva-
tion and planting. The parish contains some
remains of antiquity, but they do not appear
to be of much interest. It appears that John
Knox, the Scottish reformer, was descended
from a very ancient family in the parish, his
ancestors having been originally proprietors of
the lands of Knock, in the parish of Renfrew,
from whence they assumed the surname of
Knocks or Knock. They afterwards obtain,
ed the lands of Craigends and Ranfurly in this
parish. The family failed in the person of
Mr. Andrew Knox, a clergyman of the mode-
rate party in the reign of James VI., who
gave him the bishopric of the Isles, and after-
wards the see of Rapboe in Ireland. The
Sempills of Belltrees, a family in which poeti-
cal talent was long hereditary, were also at
one time distinguished proprietors in the pa-
rish. Besides the large village of Kilbarchan,
the parish contains the thriving village of the
620
KILBARCHAN.
Bridge of Weir, which is situated on the
Gryfe, two miles north-west from Kilbarchan,
and about a mile from Houston. The Bridge,
or Brig' o' Weir, originated in 1790 as a seat
for a cotton manufactory, and it has now four
considerable cotton mills moved by the water
of the Gryfe, besides a tany ard. The inhabitants
are supposed to be about 1000 in number, and
are said to be sober and industrious. The
village has a dissenting meeting-house.
Kilbarchan, a considerable village or town
in the above parish, at the distance of four
miles from Lochwinnoch, one mile and a half
from Johnstone, five and a half from Paisley,
and thirteen from Glasgow. It is delightfully
situated on a southern declivity, sheltered on
both sides by two large eminences rising to
the height of nearly 200 feet above the valley
in which the lower part of the town is built.
Of these eminences, the one on the east side
of the village is mostly within the policies of
Milliken, and is tastefully adorned with fruit-
trees. From a quarry of excellent freestone,
on the west side of this hill, almost contigu-
ous to the village, the houses are mostly built.
The other eminence, which is called Bank-
brae, is partly within the policies of Glentyan,
and is similarly embellished. Kilbarchan, ori-
ginally the settlement of an apostle of Christi-
anity in this part of the country, who ap-
pears to have been a foreigner, from not hav-
ing his name noticed by Camerarius, has been
long a place of great activity and trade. Linen
weaving was introduced by the establishment
of a large factory in 1739, but this branch of
trade has completely given way before the cot-
ton and silk manufacture, in which six hun-
dred looms were lately engaged. The inhabi-
tants, who are mostly weavers, are character-
ised by their ingenuity in different branches of
the trade ; and the young women are reputed
as being among the most expert in the art of
tambouring, embroidering, or making flowers
on fine muslin and silk. Two annual fairs
are held here, one on Lillia's day, the third
Tuesday of July, O. S., the other on Bar-
chan's day, the first Tuesday of December,
O. S., the last, which was formerly a cele-
brated fair for lint and tow, is now a noted
horse market. Kilbarchan possesses, besides
the parish church, a Relief Meeting-house, and
a Baptist Chapel. We are informed by our
authority, Fowler, that " there is a strong turn
for letters, antiquities, and natural history,
and especially a taste for poetry, among the
inhabitants : many of them write good verses ;
and some of them are acquainted with the
learned languages." Perhaps such poetical
qualifications might be traced to the example
given to the people by the above-mentioned
Sempills, one of whom, Robert Sempill, son
of Sir James, the ambassador to England in
1599, was the author of " the Life and Death
of the Piper of Kilbarchan," a poem which
has enjoyed its full share of celebrity, though
now valuable merely as being the first of that
popular race of hobbling elegies in which Scot-
tish poets have taken such great delight, and
which Burns carried to a state of perfection.
Francis, the son of this poet, a zealous par-
tizan of the Stuart family, exercised the poeti-
cal talent of his own in panegyrics on James
VII., addresses on the births of his children,
and satires aimed at the Whigs. If these have
little merit, his " Punishment of Poverty," and
his well-known songs entitled " Maggie Lauder,"
and " She rose and loot me in," display no mean
poetical genius. Habbie Simson, the piper so
honourably alluded to in the former of these
songs, it seems, was the town-piper of Kilbar-
chan, and a personage of whom the inhabitants,
from his notoriety, have had occasion to be
proud. With that taste for popular antiquities
which is noticed above, and which is now insen-
sibly creeping upon people in authority, a statue
of Habbie, copied from an original picture, has
lately been affixed to the steeple of the school-
house of the town. Kilbarchan is placed under
a committee of town-management, with justices
of peace resident in the neighbourhood ; the
inhabitants have formed themselves into a va-
riety of Friendly Societies ; a society for mu-
tual protection against loss by fire ; a Curlers
society; and the Kilbarchan and Neighbour-
hood Agricultural Society, which has stated
shows of cattle, when premiums are awarded.
There is also a mason lodge in the town ;
and there are two public libraries, containing
several thousand volumes — Population of
the parish, including the villages, in 1821,
4213.
KILBERRY, a parish in Argyleshire,
united to Kilcalmonell. — See Kilcalmonell.
KILBIRNY, a parish in the district of
Cunningham, Ayrshire, bounded on the north
by Largs, on the east by Lochwinnoch, on the
south by Beith, and on the west by D;dry. The
surface is uneven, and though at one time
K ILB1A ND O N.
621
moorish to a considerable extent, is now under
improvements, and in the lower parts adjacent
to the Garnock water, is ornamented with
plantations, and well enclosed. The Gar-
nock, in its upper part, is the only river
of any consequence, and intersects the parish.
On its banks stands the village of Kilbirny,
inhabited chiefly by weavers. Kilbirny House,
a very ancient settlement of the Crawford
family, situated amidst pleasant parks and
plantations, is situated in the vicinity. At
the distance of less than a mile east from
the village lies the Loch of Kilbirny, which
extends about two miles in length by half a
mile in breadth, and is well stored with
pikes, perch, trout, and eel. — Population in
1821, 1333.
KILBRANDON, a parish in Argyleshire,
lying on the Sound of Mull, incorporating the
abrogated parish of Kilchattan, and owning the
islands of Luing, Seil, Shuna, Forsa, and Eas-
dale. The total length of the united parish is
ten miles, by a breadth of six, including the
narrow sounds intersecting the islands. The
greater part is of the usual hilly and pastoral
character of Argyleshire, with some arable
land. Kilbrandon appears to derive its name
from having been a cell of St. Brandan, one of
those early apostles of Christianity, whose
names are found in so many of the local ap-
pellations throughout Scotland, and who was
a holy man of such distinction, that the people
of Bute, over which island he peculiarly pre-
sided, were frequently called by the epithet
of Brandanes. We translate an account of
St. Brandan from Camerarius : — " Saint Bran-
dan, abbot and apostle of the Orkneys and
Scottish isxes, who, when a boy, stuck close to
the side of that erudite man, Bishop Hercus,
from whom he derived the elements of learn-
ing. His father was Finlag : his mother was
called Cara. She one night dreamt that her
lap was filled full of gold, that her breasts took
fire, and shone with a great light ; which hav-
ing told to her husband, he immediately relat-
ed the case to Bishop Hercus, who, under-
standing the mysterious dream, said, ' Finlag,
your wife shall bring forth a son, in power very
great, in holiness very illustrious ; wherefore
I request that you will bring him to me to be
nursed.' This was done, and, as we said, he ad-
hered to the instructions of this holy bishop. One
St. Peter's day, St. Brandan, seeing an immense
multitude of fishes, commanded them to praise
God, whereupon they leapt out of the water,
and began to tune their voices. At another
time, being brought to the grave of a young
man, whose parents and friends were lament-
ing him bitterly, the holy man, full of piety
and faith, commanded him who was dead to
become again alive, and the order was obeyed.''
St. Brandan appears to have lived in the sixth
century. — Population of Kilbrandon in 1821,
1492, and of Kilchattan, 1152.
KILBRANNAN SOUND, an arm of
the sea, between the peninsula of Cantire, and
the isle of Arran ; and which most probably
derives its name from the saint noticed in the
above article.
KILBRIDE, a parish in Argyleshire,
united to Kilmore See Kilmore.
KILBRIDE, a parish in the county of
Bute, isle of Arran, being about one half of
the island, on the east side, extending eighteen
miles in length, by a breadth of from four to
six. On the east side of the parish are Brodick
Bay and Lamlash Bay ; Holy Island, which
belongs to this parochial division, lying in the
latter. Goatfield, and the other exceedingly
high mountains of Arran, are within the
parish. This parish and the places beneath
of the same name are understood to have
derived their title from St. Bride or Bridget,
a pious virgin, who is said to have been coeval
with King Congalus, and who, after a life of
great piety, died and was buried at Abernethy,
in the lower part of Strathearn, having wrought
a great variety of miracles, both before and
long after her death. The fame of this saint-
ed Scottish female seems to have been ex-
tended over the whole of Britain. — Popula-
tion in 1821,2714.
KILBRIDE, (EAST) a parish on the
west side of Lanarkshire, extending nearly
ten miles in length by from two to five in
breadth, bounded by Carmunnock and Cam-
buslang on the north, Blantyre and Glassford
on the east, Strathaven on the south, and
Ayrshire on the west. It comprehends the
abrogated parish of Torrance. A considerable
portion remains in a moorish state, especially
in the southern quarter of the parish, while
the other parts are generally arable. In the
parish are some extensive lime works. The
village of Kilbride lies on the road from Glas-
gow to Muirkirk, eight miles south-south-east
of the former, eight north of Strathaven, and
six south west of Hamilton. Its inhabitants
622
KILCONQUHAR.
are chiefly weavers, and, besides the parish
kirk, it has a relief meeting house. The parish
has produced several eminent men, among
whom are found Dr. William Hunter, and his
brother, Mr. John Hunter, the celebrated ana-
tomist and physiologist. — Population of the
village and parish in 1821, 3685.
KILBRIDE, (WEST) a parish in the
district of Cunningham, Ayrshire, lying on the
shore of the Firth of Clyde, opposite the Cum-
bray Islands, and bounded by Largs on the
north ; Kilbirny and Dairy on the east, and
Ardrossan on the south. In extent it stretches
six miles along the shore by a breadth inland
of from two to three miles. The whole is
part of a mountainous tract of country, which,
commencing at its southern boundary, extends
all the way to Greenock. It, therefore,
presents everywhere a broken, unequal sur-
face, rising in many places into high hills,
interspersed with a number of romantic rivu-
lets. From the tops of these hills an exten-
sive and varied view may be obtained. A
great part of the parish is pastoral. The dis-
trict, besides possessing the ruins of some old
castles, has other objects of antiquity, and it
may be remarked that near the shore of the
parish one of the largest of the vessels com-
posing the Spanish armada sunk in ten fa-
thoms water. An attempt was made about
eighty years since to examine the condition
of this ship, and the operation succeeded so
far, that a piece of ordnance was raised.
The village of Kilbride is situated about four
miles north-west from Ardrossan. —Popula-
tion in 1821, 1371.
KILBUCHO, a parish in the county of
Peebles on its western side, now incorporated
with the adjoining parish of Broughton. It
is a pleasing pastoral district ; and its name
has been traced to St. Bega, a Scottish saint
of early times, noticed above under the head of
Kilbagie.
KIL C ALMONELL, a parish in the coun-
ty of Ajgyle, incorporating the abrogated pa-
rish of Kilberry, situated in the most norther-
ly part of the peninsula of Cantire, and bounded
on the north by the isthmus of Tarbert. For
a short distance, it comprehends the whole
breadth of the peninsula, from Loch Tarbert
on the west to Loch Fyne on the east, till
separated from the latter by the narrow but
long parish of Skipness, whose northern ex-
tremity once formed a part of Kilcalmonell.
On the west, the parish stretches twelve miles
along the shore. The face of the country has
the greatest variety in its appearance, consist-
ing of flats and hills, vallies, woods and lakes.
The original character of the district has been
considerably altered by improvements in cul-
tivation, planting, &c, especially on the west
coast — Population in 1821, 2511.
KIL CH ATT AN.— See Kh-brandon.
KILCHOMAN, a parish in the island of
Islay, Argyleshire, extending twenty miles in
length by six in breadth, and occupying the
south-western corner of the island. The ge-
neral description given of Islay under that
head precludes the necessity of specifying the
peculiarities of this district. — Population in
1821, 3966.
KILCHRENAN, a parish in Argyleshire
incorporating the abrogated parish of Dalavich,
extending twelve miles in length by eight in
breadth, and lying on both sides of Loch Awe.
The parish kirk stands on the west side of this
beautiful lake, whose vicinity is now finely
embellished and improved by a road along its
banks. — Population in 1821, 591.
KILCHRIST.— See Urray.
KILCONQUHAR, a parish in the east
part of Fife, extending, in an oblong form, al-
most seven miles from north to south, and about
five from east to west at the broadest, but more
generally about two miles. It is bounded on
the south by the Firth of Forth and the parish
of Elie, on the east by the parishes of St.
Monance, Carnbee, and Cameron, on the north
by Ceres, and on the west by the parishes of
Largo and Newburn. Its surface is somewhat
irregular, being flat in the south for a mile and a
half from the sea, and rising gently to the north
for about two miles ; the rest being all of an
upland character. The flat part to the south
is a sandy soil and very fertile. There are a
number of elegant seats in this parish ; Bal-
carras, the seat of the Hon. Mr. Lindsay, and
from which the family of that gentleman takes
the title of Earl of Balcarras, Kilconquhar,
the seat of Mr. Bethune, Newton, Lathallan,
Kincraig, and Grange. The royal burgh of
Earlsferry, and the villages of Colinsburgh,
Kilconquhar, and Barnyards are in the parish.
The village of Kilconquhar has an extensive
tanwork, besides which there are a number of
shoemakers and weavers. For some particu-
lars regarding the neighbourhood of Earlsferry,
see that article. Kilconquhar Loch is a fine
KILDA (ST.;
623
sheet of water, three quarters of a mile in
length, and nearly the same in breadth, with
two small islands, which harbour a few swans.
Coal and limestone are found in the parish.
Besides the parish church at Kilconquhar,
which is a remarkably elegant modern structure,
with a fine tower, there is a dissenting meeting-
house at the village of Colinsburgh. Kilcon-
quhar might be supposed to imply the cell or re-
ligious place of some holy man of the name of
Conquhar; and such is the etymology suggested
by the writer of the Statistical Account. The
ordinary name it bears is Kinnuchar, which is a
word so different from the above that we consi-
der the one to have no relation to the other ;
believing rather that Kinnuchar is of Celtic
etymology, and is significant of the character of
the locale Population in 1821, 2317.
KILDA (ST.), or HIRTA, a solitary isle
in the Atlantic Ocean, belonging to the range
of the Hebrides, though removed to such a
distance, as not only to seem distinct from
them, but from Scotland itself. The nearest
land to it is Harris, from which it is distant
sixty miles in a west-south-west direction ; and
it is about 140 miles from the nearest point of
the mainland of Scotland. It belongs to the
parish of South Uist, one of the district
of the Long Island. It is about three miles
long, from east to west, and two broad, from
north to south. An island so solitary and re-
mote, so small, and containing such a slender
population, naturally excites a lively interest,
and we shall therefore treat it more at large
than some districts of greater political import-
ance. The island consists of a lofty uneven
ridge, fenced round on all sides by one conti-
nued perpendicular face of rock, of prodigious
height, except a part of the bay or landing-
place, and even there the rocks are of great
height ; and the narrow passage to the top is
so steep that a few men with stones could pre-
vent any hostile multitude from landing on the
island. The bay is also of difficult access, as
the tides and waves are so impetuous, that
unless in a calm, it is extremely dangerous of
approach. The surface of the island is rocky,
rising into four eminences, the tallest of which,
called Conachan, is ascertained by Dr. Mac-
culloch to be 1380 feet above the level of the
sea. The general surface of the ground is a
black loam, six or eight inches deep, and pre-
sents a nearly uniform, smooth, and green sur-
face. Excepting some imperfect peat on the
highest point, the whole i3 covered by a thick
turf of the finest and freshest verdure. The
sides of the island go sheer down to the sea,
as at the Bass in the Firth of Forth, and thus
there is clear riding ground for vessels all round
The hill Conachan is cut down abruptly on
one side into a steep-down precipice of about
1300 feet high, being thus perhaps the highest
cliff in Britain. " It is a dizzy altitude," says
Macculloch, " to the spectator who looks from
above on the inaudible waves dashing below.
There are some rocky points near the bottom
of this precipice, one of them presenting a
magnificent natural arch, which in any other
situation, would be striking, but are here lost
in the overpowering vicinity of the cliffs that
tower above them. In proceeding, these soon
become low ; but at the north-western extre-
mity, the island again rises into a hill nearly
as high as Conachan, terminating all round
towards the sea by formidable precipices,
which are continued nearly to the south-east-
ern point of the bay. Here, a rock, separat-
ed by a fissure from the island, displays the
remains of an ancient work ; whence it has
derived the name of Dune. The island
contains three principal springs, of which,
one called Tober-nam-buy, rises by a large
well, producing at once a considerable stream.
Of St. Kilda, who communicated his name to
the island, nothing seems to be ascertained.
At least I have searched the Irish hagiology
for him in vain. In Martin's time (1690)
it appears to have been known by the name of
Hirt or Hirta, a term derived from the parent
of Terra by the same inversion as our own
earth. It is a remarkable instance of the zeal
or influence of the early clergy, that in a spot
like this three chapels should have existed.
They were extant in Martin's time, and the
traces of two still remain." St. Kilda is the
property of the chief, or laird of Macleod, and
the island was formerly visited annually by his
steward, to collect the rents, which used to be
paid in sheep, butter, and wild fowl, particu-
larly the solan geese. The property is now
under the supervision of a tacksman, which
must have occasioned a considerable change
in that particular. The people who, in Mar-
tin's time, amounted to 180 persons, and in
1764 were reduced by an attack of small pox
to 88, are at present a little above 100. They
are evidently the same race with the natives of
the other Hebrides j but, though the Gaelic is
624
KILD A (ST.)
the vernacular language, they show no trace of
tartan, or of that distinct fashion of clothes
which is peculiar to the Highlands. They
all live in a small village ahout a quarter of a
mile from the bay, on the south-east, consist-
ing of two rows of houses, with a pavement
in the middle, and their habitations are nearly
flat in the roof, like those of the Oriental na-
tions, in order to avoid injury from the storms
which sweep over the island. Excepting a
small tract near the village, the whole island
is in pasture, though the soil would admit of
cultivation to any extent. But the violence of
the west winds limits the agriculture to the
south-east declivity where there is most shel-
ter. This tract is held conjointly by all the
village, on the system of run-rig, the ridges be-
ing interchanged after three years, and the
work is performed by the spade and caschrom,
or hand-plough. The produce consists chiefly
of bear, as in the Long Isle, which is said to be
the finest in the Highlands. The oats are
very inferior in quality, and are scantily cul-
tivated ; nor are potatoes grown to nearly the
extent which is usual in Highland farming.
There is nowhere any attempt at a garden.
A few horses are kept for the purpose of carry-
ing peat, together with some goats, which are
milked like sheep. But the pasture is princi-
pally allotted to sheep and black cattle. In
Martin's time the former amounted to about
1000, and the latter to 90; a tolerable mea-
sure, probably, of their present proportion.
As the adjacent islets of Soa and Borera con-
tain also from 400 to 500 sheep each, the
whole amount of the flocks must be about
2000. The breed of sheep is exclusively the
Norwegian, distinguished by the extreme
shortness of their tails — and the wool is both
thin and coarse. They are occasionally of a
dun colour, and are subject here, as in Ice-
land, to produce an additional number of horns.
The mutton is peculiarly delicate and high-
flavoured. The cattle are small, and both the
ewes and the cows are milked. The cheese,
which is made of a mixture of these milks; is
much esteemed ; forming one of the prevail-
ing articles of export to the Long Island, the
mart in which all their little commerce centres.
Their other exports consist of wool and fea-
thers, and with these they purchase the few
articles of dress and furniture which they re-
quire. The St. Kilda system of husbandry is
quite original and peculiar. The soil, though
naturally poor, is rendered extremely fertile by
the singular industiy of the inhabitants, who
manure their fields so as to convert them into
a sort of garden. All the instruments they
use, or indeed require, according to their sys-
tem, are a spade, a mallet, and a rake or har-
row. After turning up the ground with the
spade, they rake it very carefully, removing
every small stone, every noxious root or growing
weed that falls in their way, and with the
mallet pound down every stiff clod to dust.
They then manure it with a rich compost pre-
pared in the manner afterwards to be describ-
ed. It is certain that a small number of acres,
prepared in this manner, must yield a greater
return than a much greater poorly cultivated,
as in the other isles. The inhabitants of St.
Kilda sow and reap much earlier than others
in the same latitude. The heat of the sun,
reflected from the high hills upon the culti-
vated lands to the south-east, is very great,
and the climate being rainy, from the attrac-
tion which the hills exercise upon the clouds
from the Atlantic, the com grows fast and
ripens early. The harvest is commonly over
before September; and if it unfortunately
happens otherwise, the whole crop is liable to
be destroyed by the equinoctial storms, which,
in this island, are generally attended with
the most dreadful hurricanes and excessive
rains. Potatoes have been lately introduced,
and cabbages and other garden-plants are now
beginning to be used. The walls of the cot-
tages are built of coarse freestone, without
lime or mortar, but made solid by alternate
layers of turf. The doors have bolts of wood,
which, we should think, are scarcely necessary
for security. In the middle of the walls are
the beds, formed also of stone, and overlaid
with large flag-stones, capable of containing
three persons, and having a small opening to-
wards the house. All their houses are divid-
ed into two apartments, the interior of which
is the habitation of the family; the other,
nearest the door receives the cattle during the
winter season. The walls of their houses are
raised to a greater height than the cottages in
the other western islands. This is done to
allow them to prepare the manure for their
fields, which they do in the following manner ;
after having burnt a considerable quantity of
dried turf, they spread the ashes, with the
greatest care, over the apartment in which
they eat and sleep; these ashes, so exactly
K I L D A (3 T.)
625
laid out, they cover with a rich vegetable
mould or Mack earth; and on this bed of
earth they scatter a proportionate quantity of
peat dust; this done, they water, tread, and
beat the compost into a hard flour, on which
they immediately kindle large fires, which they
never extinguish till they have a sufficient
quantity of new ashes on hand. The same
operations are punctually repeated, till they
are ready to sow their barley, by which time
the walls of their houses have sunk down, or
rather their floors have risen about four or five
feet. The manure thus produced is excellent, and
scattered every year over their fields causes the
land to yield large crops. They speak highly
in its praise, and call it a " commodity inesti-
mably precious." Though cleanliness is high-
ly conducive to health and longevity, yet, in
spite of the instance of indelicacy already giv-
en, and many more which might have been
added, the St. Kildians are as long-lived as
other men. Their total want of those articles
of luxury which destroy and enervate the con-
stitution, and their moderate exercise, keep
the balance of life equal between them and
those of a more civilized country. Besides
the habitations we have mentioned, there are a
number of cells or store-houses, scattered over
the whole island. These are spoken of by
Martin as pyramids, but are in reality of a co-
nical form. They are used for saving the
produce, — the peats, the corn, the hay, and
even the birds. They are described by Mac-
culloch as " round or oval domes, resembling
ovens, eight or ten feet in diameter, and five or
six feet in height. They are veiy ingeniously
built, by gradually diminishing the courses of
dry stone — affording free passage to the wind
at all sides, while the top is closed by heavy
stones, and further protected from rain by a
covering of turf. No attempt is made to dry
the grass or com out of doors ; but when cut
they are thrown loose into these buildings, and
thus secured from all risk. It is remarkable
that this practice should have been alluded to
by Solinus as common in the Western Islands,
and that it should now be entirely unknown
any where else. It is well worthy of being
imitated on the western shore, where the hay
and corn are often utterly lost, and generally
much damaged by the rains, and by the sloven-
ly method in which the process of harvest-
ing is managed. " It would be a heresy
worthy of Quemadero," continues this lively
writer, " to suppose it possible that Ar-
thur's Oven, the temple of the god Termi-
nus, the never-to-be-forgotten cause of anti-
quarian groans and remonstrance, had been
one of Solinus's ovens ; a St. Kilda barn.
Yet there is a most identical and unlucky re-
semblance between them, in construction, form,
and magnitude ; and, indeed, I have been long
inclined to think that this Otho was only a bad
halfpenny." The people of St. Kilda, placed
thus far " amid the melancholy main,'' are a
kind of moral phenomenon in our Scottish
population. They have probably maintain-
ed the same manners, customs, and general
style of life for centuries. It very seldom
happens that any one migrates either to or
from the island ; and hence, the community is
as essentially peculiar as any large nation liv-
ing within the pale of continental Europe.
Though it appears that there were three reli-
gious buildings on the island before the Re-
formation, the inhabitants continued for ages
after that event unsolaced by the blessings of
religion, being only connected with a parish
by name. They were also unable to read and
write. These disadvantages are now obviated
by the establishment of a missionary and a
schoolmaster, under the patronage of the So-
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge.
From the remoteness of the island, the people
can scarcely be imagined to have any political
connexion with Great Britain. They proba-
bly never heard of the revolution of 1688 till
this blessed hour. After the suppression of the
insurrection of 1745, a rumour was propagated
that Prince Charles had sought refuge in St.
Kilda. General Campbell repaired to the
island with a large fleet, which no sooner ap-
proached, than the people fled to the caves and
the tops of mountains ; and it was not without
considerable difficulty that the general could
procure a hearing among them. His men
asked those whom they found, " what had be-
come of the Pretender?" to which they an-
swered, that " they had never heard of such a
person." It turned out that all they had heard
of the late troubles, by which the tranquillity of
the mainland was so effectually shaken, was,
that their laird (Macleod,) had been at war
with a woman a great way abroad, and that he
had got the better of her ! The land had been
in arms for King George, and they probably
supposed that if any other body was concerned
on that side, it must have been under him.
4l
626
KILDA (ST.)
Clarke, who visited the island, gives an ac-
count of the terror which had been inflicted
upon them by a French privateer ; and Dr.
Macculloch relates that though he visited the
island in 1815, the people not having heard of
the conclusion of the recent American war,
thought his vessel a privateer from that quar-
ter, and were with difficulty assured of the con-
trary. A writer of the last century gives an
account of a native of St. Kilda, who could
conceive, though not write poetry ; and some
specimens of his genius, which have been pre-
served, are certainly found to throw the ideas
that might be expected to enter an untutored
mind amidst such a scene, into very poetical
forms. But this person must have been a rare
wonder in St. Kilda. The people live much
upon the wild sea- fowl, with which the preci-
pices abound, and their mode of catching them
is very entertaining. The men are divided
into fowling parties, each of which generally
consists of four persons, distinguished for their
agility and skill. Each party must have at
least one rope, about thirty fathoms long, made
out of a strong raw cow-hide, salted for the
purpose, and cut circularly into three thongs of
equal length. These thongs being closely
twisted together form a threefold cord, able to
sustain a great weight, and durable enough to
last two generations. To prevent its receiv-
ing injuries from the sharp edges of the rocks,
it is covered with sheep skins, dressed in the
same manner. This rope is the most valuable
piece of furniture a St. Kildian can be possess-
ed of : it makes the first article in the testa-
ment of a father, and if it falls to a daughter's
share, she is esteemed one of the best matches
of the island. By help of these ropes, the
people of the greatest prowess examine the
fronts of rocks of prodigious heights. Linked
together in couples, each having the end of the
cord fastened about his waist, they go down
and ascend the most dreadful precipices.
When one is in motion, the other plants him-
self in a stony shelf, and takes care to have so
sure a footing, that if his fellow-adventurer
makes a false step and tumble over, he may
be able to save him. When one has arrived
at a safe landing-place, he sets himself firmly,
while the other endeavours to follow. Mr.
Macaulay gives an instance of the dexterity of
the inhabitants in catching wild fowl, to which
he was an eye witness. One of them fixed
himself on a craggy shelf, his companion des-
'2 7.
cended about sixty feet below, and, having
darted himself away from the face of a most
alarming precipice, hanging over the ocean, he
began to play his gambols, sung merrily,
and laughed very heartily ; at last, having af-
forded all the entertainment he could, he re-
turned in triumph, full of his own merit, with
a large string of sea-fowls round his neck, and
a number of eggs in his bosom. Upwards of
20,000 solan geese are annually consumed by
the natives of St. Kilda, besides an immense
number of eggs. The following is from the
ever vivacious Macculloch. " Swift, in his
Tale of a Tub, describes a land of feathers,
and perhaps he drew the hint from St. Kilda.
The air here is full of feathered animals, the
sea is covered with them, the houses are orna-
mented by them, the ground is speckled by
them like a flowery meadow in May. The
town is paved with feathers, the very dung-
hills are made of feathers, the ploughed
land seems as if it had been sown with
feathers, and the inhabitants look as if they
had been all tarred and feathered, for their
hair is full of feathers, and their clothes
are covered with feathers. The women look
like feathered Mercuries, for their shoes are
made of a gannet's skin ; every thing smells
of feathers ; and the smell pursued us over
all the islands, for the Captain had a sack-
ful in the cabin." " The rent of St. Kilda,"
says this writer, in reference to the island
before the arrival of the tacksman, "was
then extremely low, compared with the ave-
rage of insular farms, being only L.40, or L.2
per family; a sum far inferior to the value
of the land, excluding all consideration of the
birds. Independently of the food which these
afford, that value is considerable, as the whole
of the rent was paid in feathers, not in money,
while a surplus of these also remained for
sale. Thus the land was in fact held rent
free ; the whole amount being also paid by a
small portion of that labour which was more
than compensated by the food it produced.
It is evident that this rent might have been
augmented without any refusal ; if, however,
St. Kilda chose to refuse payment and rebel,
it woidd not be easy to execute a warrant of
distress or ejectment without a fleet and an
army. All this may be pretty speculation for
an economist ; but I shall be sorry to find that
it has influenced the conduct of the proprietor.
When we have been saddened at every step
K I L D O N A N.
627
by the sight of irremediable poverty and dis-
tress in all its forms, it is delightful to find
one green place in this dreary world of islands,
where want is unknown. I trust that St.
Kilda may yet long continue the Eden of the
western ocean. It is in a state of real opulence.
Their arable land supplies the people with
corn, their woods with game, and their cattle
with milk. If this island is not the Utopia
so long sought, where is it to be found ? Where
is the land which has neither arms, money, law,
physic, politics, nor taxes ? That land is St.
Kilda. War may rage all around, provided it
be not with America, but the storm reaches it
not. Neither Times nor Courier disturbs its
judgments, nor do patriots, bursting with he-
roic rage, terrify it with contradictory anticipa-
tions of that ' which will ne'er come to pass.'
Francis Moore may prognosticate, but it
touches not St. Kilda. No tax-gatherer's bill
threatens on a church-door ; the game-laws
reach not gannets. Well may the pampered
native of the happy Hirta refuse to change his
situation. His slumbers are late, his labours
are light, and his occupation is his amusement,
6ince his sea-fowl constitute at once his food,
his luxury, his game, his wealth, and his bed
of down. Government he has not, law he feels
not, physic he wants not, money he sees not,
and war he hears not. His state is his city,
and his city is his social circle ; he has the li-
berty of his thoughts, his actions, and his king-
dom, and all his world are his equals. If hap-
piness be not a dweller in St. Kilda, where
shall it be sought ?"
KILDALTON, a parish in Islay, Argyle-
shire, occupying the south-east part of the is-
land, extending fifteen miles in length by about
six in breadth. Its ancient primitive character
has been greatly improved. The kirk of Kil-
dalton, now in a ruined state, is situated at
Ardmore point, a foreland at the centre of the
east side of the island, and the church in com-
mon use is at Lagamhuilin, some miles to the
southward, where there is a small village. —
Population in 1821, 2427.
KILDONAN, an extensive pastoral pa-
rish in Sutherlandshire, near its east side, se-
parated from the county of Caithness by the
mountain range terminating at the Ord of
Caithness, bounded by Loth on the south and
south east, Clyne on the south-west, and Farr
on the north. The centre part is the vale
through which flows the water of Helmsdale,
the lower part of which, wherein the church
stands, being wooded, and in the upper part
there is a variety of lakes, the sources of
the stream. The parish is computed to ex-
tend twenty miles in length, and though nar-
row in the lower part, widens out to a
breadth of eight miles. It contains some lofty
mountains. The population, as elsewhere in
this wild pastoral country, has prodigiously di-
minished. In 1755, there was a population of
1 433, which remained steady till within the
last twenty years, when by the too well-known
process of expulsion, it had sank to 565 in
1821. The vale of Kildonan before this ex-
patriation took place, was remarkable for pro-
ducing the tallest and handsomest men in Su-
therland. Among five hundred strapping fel-
lows whom this district boasted of containing,
scarcely one was found beneath six feet. They
seemed, in fact, a distinct race from the rest of
the dalesmen. It is affectionately remembered
of the Kildonan men, many of whom are now
over the Atlantic, that they were such hearty
fellows -as to be able even to sup whisky with
their porridge-
KILDRUMMY, a parish in the upper
parts of Aberdeenshire, intersected by the river
Don, about twenty miles from its source, and
having a valley of two or three miles square
on its banks, bounded by Kearn and Auchin-
doir on the east, and Towie and Cabrach on
the west. In the vale of the Don stands the
ruins of the once magnificent castle of Kil-
drummy, anciently the property of David, Earl
of Huntingdon and Garioch, and at one period
a seat of Robert Bruce, whose queen enjoyed
a retreat here in the winter of 1306. — Popu-
lation in 1821, 496.
KILFINAN, a parish in Cowal, Argyle-
shire, lying on the east side of Loch Fyne,
extending fifteen miles in length by from three
to six in breadth. The parish church stands on
the borders of the lake. The district is beau-
tified by a considerable extent of natural wood
and shrubs, and shows a variety of pleasing
improvements — Population in 1821, 1839.
KILFINICHEN and KILVICEUEN,
a united parish in Argyleshire, island of Mull,
of which it forms the south-western limb or
Ross, which is peninsulated by the projection
of Loch Seriden ; it has also a portion on the
north side of this salt-water lake. Its super-
ficies may be twenty- two miles in lengtl by
twelve in breadth. The district is bleak »rd
628
K I L L E A It N.
mountainous, and is only interesting as con-
nected with the early history of Christianity
in this part of Scotland. To the parish is
attached the island of Icolmkill, already suffi-
ciently described, Eorsa and Inch- Kenneth. —
Population in 1821, 1839.
KILL, a rivulet in Ayrshire, parish of Stair,
a tributary of the water of Ayr.
KILLALLAN.— See Houston.
KILLARROW, a parish in the island of
Islay, Argyleshire, occupying the central divi-
sion and incorporating the abrogated parish of
Kilmeny (in which is now a parliamentary
church. ) The appellation of Killarrow is now
almost sunk in the modern title of Bowmore,
from the name of the chief or only town, where
the parish church is situated. The parish ex-
tends about eighteen miles in length by eight
in breadth, and is of a hilly nature, but greatly
improved, particularly on the shores of Loch
Indal. On the east side of this arm of the
sea, stands Bowmore, a thriving small town
begun in 1768 on a regular plan. Besides the
church, which is a circular building with a neat
spire, there is an edifice of recent erection, con-
taining a jail and an assembly room. There
is likewise a large and excellent parochial
school, built and liberally endowed by Camp-
bell of Shawfield, a considerable proprietor in
the island. It stands on an eminence at a short
distance from the town, and commands a beau-
tiful prospect of the lake and Islay House, en-
vironed in plantations at its upper extremity.
In the school, the learned languages, mathe-
matics, geography, &c. are taught. Much to
the credit of the patroness of this useful insti-
tution, Lady Ellinor Campbell, she has award-
ed thirty elegant prizes for distribution at the
public examinations, and famishes books for
the poorer pupils. Bowmore has a good pier
for shipping at the harbour, with eight or nine
feet of water at ordinary full tides. Distilla-
tion is here carried on to a considerable extent.
At the village of Bridgend, about three miles
from Bowmore, a justice of peace court is
held. A road leads across the island from
near Bowmore to Port Askaig on the sound
of Jura, at which steam-boats touch Popula-
tion of the parish of Killarrow or Bowmore in
1821, 3777— of Kilmeny district, 2001.
KILLASAY, an islet of the Hebrides on
the west coast of Lewis.
KILLE AN and KILCHENZIE, a unit-
ed parish in Cantire, Argyleshire, extending
eighteen miles in length by about four in
breadth, bounded on the south by the parish
of Campbelton, on the north by Kilcalmonell,
on the. east by the united parish of Saddel and
Skipness, and on the west by the Atlantic
ocean. — Population in 1821, 3306.
KILLEARN, a parish in Stirlingshire of
an irregular figure, but in a general sense con-
sisting of a large portion of the south side of
the vale of the Endrick, and altogether mea-
suring twelve miles in length by two and a half
in breadth. It is bounded by Fintry on the
east, Strathblane on the south, Drymen on the
west, and Balfron on the north. The beauti-
ful, though small, river Endrick runs along
the greater part of its north side, and on its
banks and the adjacent district the land is
finely cultivated and wooded. The scenery is
justly esteemed as among the most picturesque
and charming in " sweet Innerdale." The
banks of the Blane, a tributary of the Endrick,
likewise possess much beauty. In proportion
as the land recedes from these waters, it rises
higher, and finally is elevated in a lofty hilly
range. The village of Killearn stands in the
centre of the district in a pleasant part of the
country, at the distance of 16f miles from
Glasgow, and 20 from Stirling. The parish
abounds in gentlemen's seats and pleasure-
grounds, and contains localities consecrated by
the birth or residence of men eminent in the
biography of Scotland. In its more secluded
recesses, Sir William Wallace is known to
have occasionally found a retreat ; and in a
much later age, Napier of Merchiston, inven-
tor of the logarithms, when he was making his
calculations, resided for some years at Gart-
ness, a place on the Endrick, to the west of
Killearn. The house in which this ingenious
man resided adjoined a mill erected on the wa-
ter ; and it is a tradition in these parts, that
the rushing of the cascade, though very noisy,
gave him no uneasiness, because of its non-in-
termission, but that the clack of the mill,
which was only occasional, greatly disturbed
his thoughts. He was, therefore, when in
deep study, sometimes under the necessity of
desiring the miller to stop the mill, that the
train of his ideas might not be interrupted.
" No spot in the parish, or perhaps in Scotland,"
writes the author of the Statistical Account,
" has a better claim to the attention of the pub-
lic, than the indisputable birth-place of George
Buchanan, the celebrated poet and histori-
KILLIECRANKIE.
620
i an. This great man, whose name is deserved
ly famous through Europe, was born at a
place called the Moss, a small farm-house on
the bank of the water of Blane, and about two
miles from the village of Killearn. The farm
was the property of George Buchanan's fa-
ther, and was for a long time possessed by the
name of Buchanan. The place is called the
Moss, because it is situated in the vicinity of a
peat-moss, which is part of the farm. The
dwelling-house, considered as a building, is
very far from being conspicuous ; although it
is no worse, and probably never was worse,
than the ordinary farm-houses in this part of
the country. Its appearance of meanness
arises from its being very low, and covered
with straw thatch. Part of it, however, has
been rebuilt, since George was born, in the
. year 1506. Mr. Finlay is highly to be
commended for preserving, as much as possi-
ble, the ancient construction and appearance
of this far-famed arid much-honoured house.
The most superb edifice would sink into ob-
livion when compared with the humble birth-
place of George Buchanan. Long may the
Moss of Killearn afford mankind a striking
proof that the Genius of learning does not al-
ways prefer the lofty abodes of the great and
powerful. It must, however, be remarked,
that the parents of Buchanan, although not
very opulent, yet were not in abject or indi-
gent circumstances. The farm, which con-
sists of a plough of land, was able, by the aid
of industry and economy, to keep them easy.
A place in the neighbourhood is, to this day,
called Heriot s Shiels, so denominated from
Buchanan's mother, whose name was Agnes
Heriot, and who first used that place for the
shielding of sheep. It is reported, that he re-
ceived the first rudiments of his education at
the public school of Killearn, which was for a
long time in great repute, and much frequent-
ed. He afterwards, by the liberal assistance
of his uncle George Heriot, after whom he
was named, went to Dumbarton, Paris, &c.
&c. to complete his studies. A considerable
number of old trees yet remain adjacent to the
house, and are reported to have been planted
by George when a boy. A mountain ash, fa-
mous for its age and size, was blown down a
few years ago ; but care is taken to preserve
two thriving shoots that have risen from the
old stool. The gentlemen of this parish and
neighbourhood, led by a laudable ambition to
contribute a testimony of respect to their
learned countryman, lately erected, by volun-
tary subscription, a beautiful monument to his
memory. By such public marks of approba-
tion bestowed upon good and great men, the
living may reap advantage from the dead.
Emulation is thereby excited, and the active
powers of the mind stimulated, by an ardour
to excel in whatever is praiseworthy. Bu-
chanan's monument is situated in the village
of Killearn, and commands an extensive
view. It is a well proportioned obelisk, 19
feet square at the basis, and reaching to the
height of 103 feet above the ground." — Popu-
lation in 1821, 1126.
KILLEARNAN, a parish in Ross-shire,
bounded on the west by Urray, on the north
by a range of common dividing it from Fer-
intosh, on the east by Kilmuir-wester and
Suddie, and on the south by the Firth of
Beauly, along which it is pleasantly situated.
Population in 1821, 1371.
KILLIECRANKIE, a noted pass in the
district of Athole, Perthshire, formed by a nar-
row vale or chasm, through which flows the tu-
multuous river Garry, a tributary of the Tay,
and which, moreover, forms part of the great ac-
cess to the Highlands between Perth and In-
verness. Previous to the general revival of the
Highland roads, this pass was the most wild
in appearance, and the most dangerous, in the
whole of the north of Scotland ; the road being
led along a narrow tract by the left bank of
the river, with a stupendous precipice rising
almost perpendicularly above it. Here, ac-
cording to the account given by one of the
present writers in a former work (History of
the Rebellion of 1689, Constable's Miscellany)
the bold dark hills which range along the vale
of the Garry on both sides, advance so near,
and start up with such perpendicular majesty,
that the eagles call to each other from their
various tops, and the shadow of the left range
lies in everlasting gloom upon the face of the
right. The road (now) passes along the brink
of a precipitous brae on the north-east side,
the bare, steep face of the hill rising above, and
the deep black water of the Garry tumbling
below, while the eye and the imagination are
impressed by the wilderness of dusky foliage
which clothes the opposite hills. This road,
formerly so difficult and dangerous, is now no
longer terrible, unless to an imagination unac-
customed to such wild scenes. The pass of
6G0
K I L L I N.
Killiecrankie, which extends two or three miles
in length, is remarkable as giving name to a
battle fought upon the rough ground at its
north-west extremity, July 27, 1689, between
the forces of General Mackay, commander of
the government troops for the protection of
the Revolution settlement, and the Highland-
ers, who assembled under Viscount Dundee,
in behalf of King James VII. The former be-
ing defeated, were driven back through the vale,
amidst whose tortuous and contracted recesses
great numbers were slain by the pursuing
Highlanders. On the other hand, the cause
of King James suffered more by the death of
Dundee, who was killed by a musket bullet
near Urrard House, while cheering on his men
to victory. So dreaded was the pass of Kil-
liecrankie by regular soldiers after this event,
that, in 1746, when the Hessian troops fur-
nished to this country to assist in the suppres-
sion of the insurrection, were brought to enter
the Highlands at this point, they started back
and returned to Perth, declaring it to be the
ne plus ultra of a civilized country.
KILLIN, a parish in the Highland district
of Breadalbane, Perthshire ; bounded generally
on the south by Balquhidder, on the east by
Kenmore, on the north by Fortingall, and parts
of Weem and Kenmore, and on the west by
Glenorchy in Argyleshire ; being in length
about twenty-eight miles, and from six to eight
in breadth. The parish consists chiefly of the
vale of the Dochart, which is the principal
feeder of Loch Tay ; and the church town,
called also Killin, is situated at the eastern
extremity of the parish, where that river falls
into the lake. Glendochart is, upon the whole,
an arid, moorish, and marshy valley, and does
not support a great population. The High-
land road from Stirling to Fort William passes
through it. The mountains on both sides rise
to a great height, the highest being the well
known Benmore. The name Killin, which
has extended from the town to the parish, sig-
nifies the cell or religious building at the wa-
terfall, an etymology justified by circumstances,
as in the very centre of the village the river
forms a series of beautiful, though gentle cas-
cades. A small eminence in the neighbour-
hood of the village is pointed out as the burial
place of the famed Highland hero Fingal. It
has been already noticed under Fillans (St.),
that that celebrated saint, who died in 649,
spent the latter part of his life and gave his
name to a vale in this parish (Strathfillan),
where a chapel and priory were afterwards
erected to his honour by Robert Bruce, who
gave the church of Killin to the Abbot of
Inchaffray, on condition that one of the canons
should always officiate in St. Fillan's chapel.
The king was induced to pay this respect to
St. Fillan, from gratitude for the hand, or ra-
ther the arm, which his reverence was suppos-
ed to have had in the battle of Bannockburn ;
such a relic of the saint having been present in
a box, and understood to be very powerful
in bringing about the victory. It would ap-
pear from these circumstances that Killin has
been a seat of population, and a scene of pub-
lic worship, from a very early period. At
present, the village is famed for the picturesque
beauty of its situation at the south-west end
of Loch Tay, and is therefore, like Kenmore,
from which it is distant sixteen miles, a fa-
vourite point in the tour of the central High-
lands. There is a good inn. Besides this
village, there is another called Clifton, in the
western part of the parish, which contains
about 200 inhabitants, chiefly employed in
working the lead mine of Cairndoom. — Popu-
lation of the whole parish in 1821, 2103.
KILMADAN, or KILMODAN, a pa-
rish in Cowal, Argyleshire, extending twelve
miles in length by one in breadth, consisting
chiefly of a vale bounded by hills on the west
and east. The parish of Kilfinnan lies on the
west, separating it from Loch Fyne. The
rivel Ruail pursues a southerly course through
the vale and falls into Loch Ridon. The ex-
tent of sea-coast is about three miles. The
small village of Kilmcdan is situated in the
vale of Ruail, on its left bank, and here an an-
nual meeting of the Cowal Agriculture Asso-
ciation takes place, on the last Wednesday of
September, with a show of cattle and sheep.
—Population in 1821, 731.
KILMADOCK, or DOUNE, an exten-
sive parish in the southern part of Perthshire,
district of Menteith, bounded by a detached
part of Strowan, united to Monivaird on the
north ; Dumblane, and part of Lecropt on the
east ; Kincardine and the Forth, which sepa-
rates it from Gargunnock and Kippen on the
south, and by a part of Kincardine and Callan-
der on the west. The Teith intersects the dis-
trict from the northwest to south-east. Alto-
gether the parish consists of a superficies of about
64 square miles. The original, and still legal,
KILMANV.
631
title of the parish, Kilmadock, is derived from
a locality in the district, once honoured by the
residence of St. Madock or Madocus ; but
this appellation has been gradually dropped
since 1756, when the old parish church being
removed, the seat of worship was transferred
to the village of Doune, where a new kirk
was erected. For a description of this thriv-
ing village, with the Castle of Doune, and the
scenery around them, we refer to the article
Doune. The parish of Kilmadock and part
of Kincardine parish on the south comprise a
series of most beautiful rural and woodland
scenes in the vale of the Teith, which is now
highly cultivated and enclosed. This part of
the country is populous, and has been enrich-
ed by being made the settlement of certain ex-
tensive cotton works at a place called Dean-
Eton, which lies on the west bank of the
Teith, opposite Doune. Adjacent to Doune
are the small villages of Buchany and Burn of
Cambus. — Population of the village of Doune
in 1821, nearly 1000, including the parish,
3150.
KILMAHOG, a small village in Perth-
shire, parish of Callander, situated on the left
bank of the Teith, about a mile west from the
village of Callander. Immediately to the west-
ward is the celebrated pass of Leny.
KILMALCOLM, a parish in the western
part of Renfrewshire, having Port- Glasgow
and the Clyde on the north, Erskine, Hous-
ton, and Kilbarchan on the east, Lochwinnoch
and part of Ayrshire on the south, and chiefly
Greenock on the west. This district, which
may be a square of six miles, is among the
most moorish and unpromising in the county,
a very great part of it in the south being a
waste called Kilmalcolm Moss. It is not
mountainous, though there are frequent risings
on the surface, and some parts of it are rocky.
The Gryfe and the Duchal, in their upper
parts, intersect and water the parish, and have
their banks cultivated, and in some places
planted. The village of Kilmalcolm is situat-
ed on the east side of the parish, on the road
from the Bridge of Weir to Port- Glasgow. —
Population in 1821, 1600.
KILMALIE, an extensive mountainous
parish in the West Highlands, partly belong-
ing to Argyleshire, but the greater proportion
to Inverness-shire, and being a part of the
country of Locheil. It is intersected in three
different places, by as many arms of the sea,
and, measuring by straight lines, is sixty miles
in length by thirty in breadth. Altogether,
its superficies will be nearly 600 square miles.
The chief indentation of the sea is Loch Eil,
into which falls the Caledonian Canal. Near
the junction of the latter with the Loch, and
on the northern side, stands the parish kirk.
On the other side of the canal and river is the
castle of Inverlochy, the military strength of
Fort- William, and the village of Maryburgh,
all described_in this work in their proper places.
Upon the banks of the rivers Lochy and Ne-
vis, and in several other places, there is a good
deal of arable land. — Popidation in 1821,5527.
KILMANIVAIG, an extensive pastoral
and mountainous parish in Inverness-shire,
lying to the east of the above parish of Kilma-
lie, having Fortingal on the south-east, Lag-
gan on the east, Glenelg and Kintail on the
north, and Boleskine on the north-east. Its
appearance is very much diversified by ranges
oflofty mountains towards the extremities, in-
tersected by extensive glens in different direc-
tions, and rapid rivers, which all discharge
themselves into the river Lochy. The Kirk-
toun of Kilmanivaig is situated at the south-
western extremity of Loch Lochy. The chief
natural curiosity of this district is the series of
parallel roads in the vale of Glenroy ; — see
Glenroy.— Population in 1821, 2842.
KILMANY, a parish in the county of
Fife, separated by Balmerino and Forgan
from the Tay, having Logie, Dairsie, and Cu-
par on the east and south, and Moonzie and
Criech on the west. In figure, the district is
very irregular, being six and a half miles in
length by five in breadth at the west end, and
tapering to two miles and less in the eastern
part. The parish is wholly agricultural and
highly productive. In modern times it has, in
many places, been much improved by planta-
tions, &c. The small village of Kilmany,
with its kirk placed in a romantic and beauti-
ful situation on the face of a bank rising from
a small stream, is situated on the old road from
Cupar to Dundee, about five miles north from
the former, and three and a half from the har-
bour of Balmerino on the Tay. Rather more
than a mile westward is the village of Rathil-
let, and near it is the house of Rathillet, the
ancient seat of the Hackston family, one of
whom obtained great distinction during the
troubles in Scotland betwixt the Restoration
and Revolution.— Population in 1821, 751. t
632
KILMARNOCK.
KILMARNOCK, a parish in the district
of Cunningham, Ayrshire, about nine miles
long and four broad, bounded by Loudon on
the east, by Fenwick and Stevvarton on the
north, by Kilmaurs upon the west, and by the
liver Inane, which divides it from Riccarton
and Galston, on the south. The surface is
level, or with only a slight declination towards
the Irvine, and the whole is in a state of the
highest cultivation. The name Kilmarnock,
or Cellmarnock, evidently denotes a religious
place originating in reference to St. Mar-
noch, a holy man who is said to have died so
early as 322, though it is hardly credible that
he could have lived here. The Duchess of
Portland, and the Marchioness of Hastings,
(Countess of Loudoun,) are the principal pro-
prietors of the parish. The most remarkable
object in the parish is the ruin of Dean
Castle, an ancient, extensive, and well defended
house, formerly the property of the Earls of
Kilmarnock. It stands in a dean or hollow,
less than a mile north from the town of Kil-
marnock, and is an august object. It was
burnt down in 1735, in consequence of the in-
attention of a servant girl, who, in preparing
some lint for spinning, unfortunately let it take
fire. There afterwards sprung up in one of
its ruined halls, a large ash-tree, which verified,
it was said, a prediction uttered in the time of
" the Persecution." Half a mile north-west
from the town is an extensive coal-field, whence
coal is driven for the works in Kilmarnock,
besides large supplies which are transmitted by
a rail- way to Troon, where they are shipped
for various places.
Kilmarnock, a town in the above pa-
rish — the principal one in Ayrshire, for po-
pulation, wealth, and appearance, though neither
a royal burgh nor the capital of the county.
This large and flourishing town is situated on
level ground near the debouche of the Kilmar-
nock water into the Irvine, distant from Edin-
burgh, (through Glasgow,) sixty-five and a- half
miles ; Glasgow, twenty-one and a-half ; Ayr,
twelve ; Irvine, six and a-half; Ballantrae, forty-
six; Girvan, thirty- two; Maybole, twenty-one;
Largs, twenty -eight ; and Mauchline, nine and
a-half. The aspect of the town is agreeable,
especially in its central parts, where the streets
are regular, and the greater part of the houses
are erected in an elegant style in freestone.
Recently the town has extended considerably
to the south and east, and in these directions
has now many handsome edifices. Two cen-
turies ago, Kilmarnock was a mere hamlet,
depending upon the baronial castle in its neigh-
bourhood. It received its first charter as a
burgh of barony in 1591, a second in 1672,
and in 1700, its magistrates were able to pur-
chase, from its feudal superiors, the whole com-
mon good and customs of the burgh. The five
incorporated trades which now exist in the
town, namely, the bonnet-makers, skinners,
tailors, shoemakers, and weavers, have all been
created -within the last two hundred years ; the
bonnet-makers, in 1646, being the first incor-
porated. For many years and generations, the
place seems to have been only distinguished
by the manufacture of the broad fiat bonnets,
which so long were the characteristic wear of
the Scottish lowland peasantry, as also the
striped cowls which yet bear the name of the
town. As this business increased, so grew the
population; and in 1731, the number had
swelled so much, that the parish church was
found inadequate for its accommodation, and a
new church was built- Some years later, ac-
cording to the Rev. Dr. Mackinlay, in his
Statistical Account of the parish, "the principal
trade was carried on by three or four individu-
als, who bought serges and other woollen arti-
cles from private manufacturers, and exported
them to Holland. When the demand after-
wards increased, a company was formed, who
erected a woollen factory for different branches
of that business, which has ever since continu-
ed in a very flourishing state. The shoe trade
was introduced about the same time." At the
time when this gentleman wrote (1791), the
proportion of the produce of the chief manu-
factures was as follows : —
Carpets manufactured, - L.21,400
Shoes and boots, - 21,216
Tanning, - - 9000
Gloves, - - 3000
Bonnets, night-caps, and mits, 1706
And the whole amount, including a variety of
different articles, was L.86,850. The advan-
tages of the place as a site of manufactures
were coal, healthiness of situation, a populous
country around, and abundance of provisions ;
the chief disadvantage the distance from the
sea, (six or seven miles,) -and the consequent
expense of land carriage. It would appear
that the former have been much too powerful
for the latter ; for Kilmarnock, since the date
of the above statement, has made prodigious
KILMARNOCK.
633
advances in business, in all its former branches
of manufacture. It is now a rival to Kid-
derminster in the manufacture of carpets ; the
number of firms in that line in 1826 being six.
It continues to enjoy its pre-eminence as a place
for making shoes, the number of professors
of this art in the same year amounting to
thirty-three. Since 1791, it has entered into
and carried on to a large extent, the cotton
manufacture ; the number of agents for the
management of that branch of employment in
1 826 was twenty. Shawls, gauzes, and mus-
lins of the finest texture and most elegant pat-
tern are here produced upon an extensive scale.
Bonnets and plaids, now that they have become
articles of fancy wear, are wrought in greater
quantities than ever, no fewer than seventeen
houses being employed in 1826 in making bon-
nets alone. The tanning and dressing of leather,
extensive dye-works, a large calico printing con-
cern, breweries, together with several large
nurseries, all add to the wealth and importance
of the town. It must also be mentioned, that
the whole of the different branches of business
are carried on in an amazingly active and liberal
spirit. A good idea of the value and extent
of the manufactures of this thriving town may
be gained from the following statistical facts,
published in the newspapers in July 1831 : —
" In Kilmarnock, about 1200 weavers and
200 printers are engaged in the manufacture of
harness and worsted printed shawls. From
31st May 1830 to June 1, 1831, there were no
less than 1,128,814 of these shawls manufac-
tured, the value of which would be about
L.200,000. In the manufacture of Brussels,
Venetian, and Scottish carpets and rugs, the
quality and patterns of which are not surpass-
ed by any in the country, there are upwards of
1000 weavers employed. The annual amount
of this important branch of manufacture can-
not be less than L. 100,000. About 2400
pairs of boots and shoes are made every week,
of which three-fourths are for exportation ; an-
nual value about L.32,000. The manufac-
ture of bonnets is also extensive, there being
upwards of 224,640 yearly made by the cor-
poration, the annual value of which is L. 1 2,000.
The number of sheep and lamb skins dressed
annually exceeds 140,000." The town, both
in its public and private business, is a notable
example of the negative advantage which is so
often seen to attend the exemption from politi-
cal privileges. Its magistracy, consisting of
two bailies, a treasurer, and sixteen councillors,
are in a great measure a committee of the in-
habitants for the management of the town, and,
being under no particular control or temptation,
from neighbours anxious to obtain a place in
parliament, they conduct public affairs simply
with a regard to the general good, neither
swerving to the right nor the left. The three
magistrates, the baron bailie, and the convener
of the trades, ex officio, together with sixteen
ordinary commissioners, form a commission for
the management of the police. There is, be-
sides, an association entrusted with the im-
provement of the town. Kilmarnock was
lighted with gas in 1823, by a joint-stock com-
pany formed of shareholders of ten pounds
each share, the management being entrusted to
a committee of twelve gentlemen. The shops
throughout the town are filled with elegant
assortments of goods, and a degree of ani-
mation prevails among the inhabitants, which
makes a favourable impression upon strangers.
The trade of Kilmarnock is assisted by branch ■
es of the Commercial and Ayr banks. A hand-
some new edifice at the east end of the town is
in the course of erection for a new branch bank.
The town-house, built in 1805, contains a
court-room for the magistracy and public of-
fices. In 1814, an elegant news-room was
built in the centre of the town ; this serves the
double purpose of a reading-room, and a place
of general resort, and is supplied with most of
the London, Edinburgh, and Scottish provincial
newspapers. Kilmarnock possesses an excel-
lent academy, in which a variety of branches
of education are taught by four masters ; and,
besides, there are nine private schools through-
out the town. An association, under the title
of a Society for Promoting Knowledge, has
been established, and the town is furnished
with a large subscription library, besides those
which are managed by booksellers. There
are three printers in Kilmarnock, one of whom
prints a newspaper lately established ; and it
is not to be forgotten in the literary history
of the town, that here was put to press and pub-
lished the first edition of the poems of Robert
Burns. The town contains several respects
ble and well-conducted societies, among which
are the Procurators', the Merchants', with se-
veral benefit societies and clubs. A very fine
observatory, some valuable machinery, and ex-
cellent telescopes have been constructed by the
inventive genius of Mr. Thomas Morton, a
4 M
0S4
KILMAURS.
self-instrflcted mechanist residing in the neigh-
bourhood. The religions culture of the peo-
ple is superintended by three town clergymen,
two of whom are colleagues in one church ; by
two ministers of the United Secession ; and by
one minister of each of the following denomi-
nations : — Relief, Original Seceders, Original
Burghers, Independents, and Reformed Pres-
bytery. Almost the only antiquity in the
town used to be a cross, called Lord Soulis'
Cross, commemorating the assassination of this
nobleman by one of the family of Boyd. This
stood in one of the streets, till it gradually fell
to ruin. The incident took place in 1444.
At Kilmarnock, strangers should inquire for a
museum of curiosities, the property of Mr.
David Gray, vintner. It consists of coins,
minerals, natural curiosities, arms, &c, and is
well worthy of a visit. Kilmarnock was a
modern earldom in the old family of Boyd, at-
tainted in 1743. — Population of the town in
1821, 12,500, including the parish 12,769.
KILMARNOCK WATER, a consider-
able rivulet in Ayrshire, rising in the upper
parts of the parish of Fenwick (by whose name
it is sometimes called) and after a course of
eight or nine miles, and having intersected the
above town of Kilmarnock, falls into the Ir-
vine a short way to the east, at Riccarton.
KILMARONOCK, a parish in Dumbar-
tonshire, lying at the south end of Loch Lo-
mond, by which and the Endrick water, it is
bounded on the west and north ; Bonhill and
Dumbarton lie on the south. From near Bal-
loch on the west to Spittal on the Endrick, the 1
direct distance is about seven miles, and from
Loch Lomond to the boundary with Dumbar-
ton, the distance is five miles. Within these
dimensions, the parish is diversified with hill
and dale, beautiful plantations and pleasure-
grounds, and arable fields now in a good state
of cultivation. Ardoch is one of the chief
seats- The village of Kilmaronock is situated
near the Endrick. — Population in 1821, 1008.
K1LMARTIN, a parish in Argyleshire,
lying on the west coast in Argyle Proper, ex-
tending twelve miles in length by about three
in breadth, bounded on the north-east for six
miles by Loch Awe. The parish of Glassary
or Kilmichael lies on the east. The district,
like other parts of Argyleshire, in this quarter
is hilly with arable fields intermixed. The pa-
rish comprehends the Crinan canal. The
church of Kilmartin is situated about four miles
northward from thence, in a valley which pro-
ceeds to Loch Awe, and is esteemed for its
romantic beauty. — Population in 1821, 1452.
KILMARTIN WATER, a small river
in the parish of Kilmuir, Isle of Skye.
KILMAURS, a parish in the district of
Cunningham, Ayrshire, extending six miles
from east to west, by at most three miles from
north to south, and situated betwixt Kilmar-
nock and Dreghorn. The surface consists of
large flat fields, with many gentle risings and
declivities interspersed. The summits of these
are covered with trees, and the whole district
has a pleasing appearance. The village or
town of Kilmaurs, the capital of the parish, is
situated on the right bank of a rivulet which
rises in Fenwick parish, and is here called Kil-
maurs Water, but which is more properly styl-
ed the Carmel Water, at the distance of two
miles north-west from Kilmarnock. " It was
erected into a burgh of barony," says the author
of the Statistical Account of the parish, " by
James V., at the instance of Cuthbert, Earl
of Glencairn, and William his son, Lord Kil-
maurs. That noble family then resided in this
parish, where they had a house, some small
ruins of which yet remain on the farm, which
is called Jock's Thorn, near to the road leading
from Stewarton to Kilmarnock, and their
house known by the name of the Place, was
situated, where the late Lord Chancellor had
laid the foundation of a very extensive build-
ing. By a charter, written in Latin, and sign-
ed by the said Cuthbert and his son at Glas-
gow, 15th November 1577, it appears, that the
five pound land of Kilmaurs, consisting of
240 acres, was disposed to forty different per-
sons in feu farm and free burgage, and to be
held in equal proportions by them, their heirs
and successors, upon the yearly rent of eighty
merks for every fortieth part." The charter
which thus erected the then village of Kilmaurs
into a free barony, contains many remarkable
clauses, and among the rest, one to the effect
that " no woman succeeding to an inheritance
in the said burgh, shall marry without the spe-
cial licence of the Earl of Glencairn." It was
the design of this nobleman to bring together
into one place a number of tradesmen of dif-
ferent professions, and to lay the basis of a
manufacturing and commercial population ; but
here, as almost everywhere, it was soon made
27
K1LM0RE.
635
evident that trade and manufactures can hardly
be coerced with a chance of success. The
feuars, instead of turning their attention to the
arts, in time drew their entire subsistence from
the soil, and ultimately the place became noted
for its production of the best kail plants in the
country. The only trade which settled in the
little town was the manufacture of clasp knives
or whittles, the sharpness of the edge of which
instruments gave rise in Ayrshire to a form of
speech yet in use through the country : A
man of acute understanding and quickness of
action, is said to be as sharp as a Kihnaurs
whittle, a mode of expression once so common
that it is known to have entered into the pul-
pit eloquence of a certain old presbyterian cler-
gyman, who, on one occasion, in addressing
himself to his audience, upon rising to speak
after a young divine, who had delivered a dis-
course in flowery language and English pro-
nunciation, said, " My friends, we have had a
great deal of fine English ware among us the
day, but aiblins my Kilmaurs whittle will cut
as sharply as ony English blade !" In later
times this species of manufacture was aban-
doned, and trade has subsequently been direct-
ed into the channel of weaving, &c. There is
plenty of coal in the vicinity. The town now
consists principally of one street, in the middle
of which is a small town-house with a steeple
and clock. It is governed by two bailies, cho-
sen annually by a majority of the portioners,
before whom debts may be recovered. Before
the Reformation the church of Kilmaurs was
a collegiate institution, founded in 1503, for a
provost and several prebendaries, with two sing-
ing boys, by Sir William Cunningham of Kil-
maurs. Besides the present parish church,
there is a meeting-house of the United Seces-
sion body. In the cemetery of the Glencairn
family, near the church, is a piece of beautiful
ancient sculpture, erected as a monument to
the memory of William, the ninth Earl, who
was raised to the dignity of Lord High Chan-
cellor of Scotland by Charles II. — Population
of the town in 1821, 900, including the parish
1660.
KILMENY, an abrogated parish in the
Isle of Islay, now united to Killarrow ; — see
Kill arrow.
KILMORACK, a parish in the north-
eastern part of Inverness shire, bounded on its
north-eastern quarter by Beauly Firth and the
parish of Kirkhill, and on the south-west
by Kintail and Lochalsh. This parish is among
the largest in Scotland, and stretches from
Farradale to the eastward of the village of
Beauly, in a direction pretty nearly from east
to west, till within a short distance of the Croe
of Kintail, — a tract of ground upwards of six-
ty miles in length, by ten, twenty, and even
thirty in breadth. Pastoral mountains and hills,
glens, rivers, some arable grounds, and water-
falls enter into the description of this vast ex-
tent of country. Adjacent to the Beauly Firth
the district is exceedingly beautiful and produc-
tive, and there are in this quarter large plan-
tations of firs. The principal river is the
Beauly, composed of three lesser ones, the
Farrar, Canich, and Glass, which give names to
as many glens. The falls of Kilmorack on
the Beauly river, are noticed under the latter
head — Population in 1821, 2862.
KILMORE, a parish in Lorn, Argyle-
shire, to which the abrogated parish of Kil-
bride has been united, lying opposite the en •
trance to Loch Linnhe on the sea-coast, ex-
tending seven miles in length, by six in
breadth, and including the island of Kerera.
The country is hilly, but not mountainous.
The hills, though low, are covered with heath.
The valleys are generally arable. The parish
includes the town of Oban, which, as well as
Kerera, lying opposite to it, are described un-
der their respective heads. The parish also
includes the ruined Castle of Dunstaffnage, at
the entrance to Loch Etive, a notice of which
will also be found under its appropriate head.
—Population in 1821, 804-
KILMORICH, a parish in Argyleshire,
united to that of Loch-goil-head ; — See Loch-
GOIL-HEAD.
KILMORY, a parish in the isle of Arran,
county of Bute, occupying about the half of
the island on its west side, — Kilbride parish
forming the eastern division. The Kirk of
Kilmory is at the southern extremity of the
island Population in 1821, 3827.
KILMUIR, a parish belonging to Inver-
ness-shire, in the isle of Skye, occupying the
most northerly portion of the island, and be-
ing bounded by the sea on all sides but the
south, where it has the parish of Snizort.
Its length is computed at sixteen miles, by
eight miles in breadth, and it is generally hilly
and pastoral. The low grounds or habitable
parts are arable. The palish church stands on
the west coast, near the northern. extreiK >fy of
036
KILNINVER.
the island. At a creek north from it is the
ruin of the once magnificent Castle of Dun-
tulm, the ancient residences of the M'Donald
family. It is situated high on a rock, the foot
of which is washed by the sea. A lofty
mountain range terminates in this parish, and
at its northern extremity there is, says the au-
thor of the Statistical Account of the parish,
" a most curious concealed valley. It is on
all sides surrounded with high rocks, and ac-
cessible to man or beast only in three or four
places. A person seeing the top of the rocky
boundaries, could never imagine that they sur-
rounded so great a space of ground. In bar-
barous times, when perpetual feuds and dis-
cords subsisted between the clans, to such a
degree that life and moveable property could
not be secure, when the approach of an enemy
was announced, the weakest of the inhabitants,
with all the cattle, were sent into this secret
asylum, where strangers could never discover
them without particular information. It is so
capacious as to hold, but not to pasture for any
length of time, 4000 head of cattle, and is
justly accounted a very great natural curiosity."
There are a number of safe natural harbours
on the coast, which is bold and precipitous,
and a few small pastoral islands belong to the
parochial districts. — Population in 1821, 3387.
KILMUIR, (EASTER) a parish partly
in Ross and partly in Cromartyshire, extend-
ing ten miles by four and a half on an average
in breadth, bounded on the east by the small
river of Balnagown, and by the sands of Nigg
and bay of Cromarty on the south. The situa-
tion is highly delightful, having the best cul-
tivated parts of six neighbouring parishes full
in view. Beyond these, the eye extends over
a prospect of thirty miles from east to west
along the firth ; and, towards the south-east,
a passage opens between the two rocks, called
the Sutors or Saviours of Cromarty, through
which a considerable part of the county of
Moray is visible ; and all the vessels, small
and great, that enter into the bay, and anchor
in this Portus salutis, are seen from almost
every house in the parish ; the whole forming
one of the richest and most beautifully varie-
gated landscapes in Britain. The soil of this
parish is various ; along the shore, which is
flat, it is generally light and sandy, but in rainy
seasons very fertile ; and, even in the driest
summer, it seldom fails of yielding a good crop.
About a mile from the shore, and almost
parallel to it, a sloping bank runs from east to
west through the whole parish : here both the
soil and the climate begin to change, though
the bank at its utmost altitude is not more than
thirty feet above the level of the sea Popu-
lation in 182], 1381.
KILMUN, a small village at the head of
Holy Loch, district of Cowal, Argyleshire.
Kilmun was formerly the capital of a parish of
the same name, now incorporated with that of
Dunoon; and here, in the year 1442, Sir
Duncan Campbell of Lochawe ancestor of the
Duke of Argyle, founded a collegiate church
for a provost and several prebendaries, — " in
honorem Sancti Mundi abbatis," — from whom
the name of the place is derived. The burial
vault of the Argyle family is still at the old
church of Kilmun.
KILMUIR, (WESTER) and SUDDY,
a united parish in Ross-shire, now termed
Knockbain — See Knockbain.
KILNINIAN, a parish in Argyleshire,
island of Mull, forming the northern division
of that island, and rendered peninsular by the
indentation of Loch-na-Keal on the west, and
the bay of Aros from the sound of Mull on
the east. In extent it measures nearly a square
of twelve miles, but being a hilly pastoral dis-
trict, it contains little to excite description.
In Loch-na-Keal there are some islands be-
longing to the parish, the chief of which are
Ulva and Gometray, also Little Colonsay,
Kenneth, and Eorsa- Farther out to sea is
Staffa island, which is also ecclesiastically at-
tached to the district. Between Gometray
and Ulva and the main land of Mull is the
sound called Loch Tua, and opposite this
quarter, at some distance from land, is the
Treishnish group of islets, also belonging to
Kilninian. In the centre of the parish lies
Loch Erisa. The modern town of Tober-
mory is on the sound of Mull in this parish,
but it as well as the above islands and lochs
being sufficiently described under their particu-
lar heads, do not here require notice. — Popula-
tion in 1821,4357.
KILNINVER, a parish in Lorn, Argyle-
shire, incorporating the abrogated parish of
Kilmelfort, lying on the west coast to the
south of Kilmore, being of a square form,
measuring twelve miles each way. The Kil-
melfort part of the parish is south of Kilnin-
ver. The lower parts of the district on the
west are generally smooth sloping declivities
KILPATRICK.
637
toivards the sea, yielding, when properly culti-
vated, and in favourable seasons, good crops of
corn and potatoes. The upper parts, towards
the east and south, are mountainous. There
is a good deal of natural wood, and planta-
tions in a thriving condition. The parish has
six miles of sea coast opposite Mull.— Popula-
tion in 1821,685.
KILPATRICK, (NEW or EAST) a
parish belonging partly to Dumbartonshire and
partly to Stirlingshire, having a portion of its
south-eastern extremity bounded by the river
Kelvin, bounded on the west by Old or West
Kilpatrick, on the north by Strathblane, and
on the east by Baldernock ; in extent it is up-
wards of six miles from north to south, by a
breadth of from two to four miles. The sur-
face is generally uneven and hilly, but is now
in a great measure cultivated and enclosed,
and improved by plantations. The Forth
and Clyde canal intersects the parish in its
southern part, entering the district on crossing
the Kelvin by a stupendous aqueduct bridge
(see Kelvin.) The parish has a variety of
gentlemen's seats, and a village called Millguy,
with a number of bleachfields, and mills for
different purposes. The district was separat-
ed from Old Kilpatrick in the year 1649 —
Population in 1821, 2530.
KILPATRICK, (OLD or WEST) a
parish in Dumbartonshire of a triangular form,
lying with its base to the Clyde, bounded by
Dumbarton on the west, and East Kilpatrick
on the east ; in extent it presents a shore of
eight miles to the above river, by a depth in-
land, narrowing to ah obtuse point, of upwards
of four miles. The surface is uneven and
mostly hilly, being excellently adapted for
cattle and sheep^pasture ; the lower parts are
arable. The district has several small rivulets,
which, from the number of the works erected
upon them, have added very much to the
wealth and population of the parish ; calico
printing, bleaching, paper-making, and iron
founding, and distilling, are the chief trades
carried on upon a great scale. The Forth and
Clyde Canal intersects the lower or southern
end of the parish, and falls into the Clyde at
Bowling Bay, a short way westward from
West Kilpatrick. This village lies ten miles
west from Glasgow on the road from thence
along the Clyde to Dumbarton, from which it
is five miles distant. It occupies a pleasant
situation at the foot of the hilly country in
view of the Clyde, and contained in 1821
about 700 inhabitants. The village is not dis-
tinguished by manufactories, but in the neigh-
bourhood is an extensive paper manufactory,
and two miles to the northward are two of the
largest cotton mills in Scotland ; these and the
other works in the parish give employment to
some thousands of hands. The village has
two good inns. At the entrance from Dum-
barton stands the established church, a neat
stone building with a handsome tower and a
good clock. Kilpatrick has, besides, a Burghei
and a Relief meeting-house. Contiguous to
the village is the parochial school. The name
Kilpatrick implies the Cell of Patrick ; and it
is universally allowed that this was the birth-
place of the celebrated tutelar saint of Ireland
who, in the words of the song,
" drove the frogs into the bogs,
And banished all the varmint."
According to the ancient monkish biographers
of St. Patrick, he first saw the light about the
year 372, near the town of Dumbarton.
Scotland was then a Roman province, except-
ing what lay to the north of the wall which
ran through this parish ; and the father of St-
Patrick was a Roman provincial, named Cal-
purnius, his mother's name being Conevessa.
Mr. Dillon, the late Secretary of the Scottish
Antiquarian Society, in a paper published in
the second volume of the Archaelogia Scotica,
conjectures that the ancient, but now extinct,
village of Duntocher, which stood on a hill in
this parish, was the proper birth place of the
frog-compelling saint, instead of Kilpatrick,
which more probably was a religious place
brought into existence in commemoration of
him, or founded by himself. To support this
theory, Duntocher is found to exhibit the re-
mains of a Roman statue, while nothing of
the kind is to be traced at Kilpatrick. At all
events, the birth-place of the saint is certainly
within the parish. When Patrick was six-
teen years of age, a band of Irish pirates made
a descent upon this civilized Roman district,
and carried him off, along with other captives,
to their own comparatively barbarous country.
Thus commenced his connexion with Ireland.
He was placed as a slave under Milcho, a
petty king at Skirry, in the county of Antrim ;
from whom, however, he afterwards made his
escape in a ship that carried him to the Con-
tinent; whence he subsequently rejoined his
638
KILKENNY.
parents in bis native country. Having now
acquired that gift of holiness for which he was
so distinguished, he re-visited Ireland in the
imposing character of an apostle of Christian-
ity ; and after a most eventful and useful life,
he died in 491, in the 120th year of his age.
There is good reason to suppose that he was
buried at Glasgow, on the spot which was
subsequently occupied by the cathedral. In
the river Clyde, opposite to the church, there
is, or was, a large stone or rock, visible at
low water, called St. Patrick's stone. As al-
ready mentioned, the celebrated wall of An-
toninus, which crossed the island from the
Forth to the Clyde, terminated on the west, in
this parish, at the place called Dunglas, and
vestiges of this massive work of art are still
visible. In much later times Dunglas was the
site of a fortlet which being situated on a low
rocky promontory on the Clyde, was service-
able in commanding the passage up or down the
river. It is now a complete ruin shrouded in
ivy, and has a romantic appearance in the eye
of the tourist. By a very excusable ignorance,
the writer of the Statistical Account, Webster,
and the common herd of topographers who
have blindly followed their descriptions, have
confounded this castle of Dunglas with another
of the same name, on the borders of East
Lothian and Berwickshire, (see Oldham-
stocks,) seven miles below Dunbar, by men-
tioning that it was blown up in the year 1 640,
by the treachery of an English boy, when the
Earl of Haddington and other persons of rank
were killed. The Dunglas on the Clyde,
which had no connexion with this event, was
formerly the property of the Colquhouns of
Luss, who likewise enjoyed the whole tract of
country from that to Dumbarton, at one time
known as the barony of Colquhoun. Adja-
cent to Dunglas on the west, rises a strangely
shaped basaltic hill, termed Dumbuck, which
shoots up its fantastic head into the air,
and bears a resemblance to the rock of Dum-
barton Castle in the vicinity. From the
propinquity and resemblance of these objects,
has arisen the proverbial expression in this
part of the country, that " after swallowing
Dumbuck, it's needless to make faces at Dum-
barton ;" a sentiment similar in moral signifi-
cation to the elegant adage, " Eat a cow and
worry at the tail." — Population of this parish
in 1821, 3692.
KILRENNY, a parish in the county of
P'ife, of a triangular form, with its base, of froru
two to three miles in extent, along the shore
of the Firth of Forth, near its mouth, and
having a depth inland of nearly the same di-
mensions. It includes the fishing village of
Cellardykes or Nether Kilrenny, on the coast
contiguous to Easter Anstrutber. The parish
of Crail encompasses the district on the north
and east. The shore is bold and rocky, and
is in some places perforated with caves. The
country is here under the best processes of pro-
ductive agriculture, and is well enclosed and
embellished with plantations.
Kilkenny, a royal burgh, the capital of
the above parish, situated one mile east of
Easter Anstruther, three west of Crail, and
about three quarters of a mile north of Cellar-
dykes or Nether Kilrenny. This latter place
was included with Kilrenny in a charter from
James VI., creating the town a royal burgh.
In virtue of this imprudent grant, the burgh,
unless when disfranchised by some informality,
has joined with Crail, Easter and Wester An-
struther, and Pittenweem, in electing a mem-
ber of parliament. In the present day, Kil-
renny may be said to be almost extinct, as it
certainly is unknown, as a town, having had a
population of only 630 individuals by the cen-
sus of 1821. Its civic government is com-
posed of a chief magistrate, two bailies, and a
treasurer. Kilrenny derives its name from the
ancient church of the parish, which was dedi-
cated to St. Irenaeus, bishop of Lyons, whose
fame for piety was in early times great through-
out Christendom. By the ordinary custom
of cutting down names in Scotland, St. Irenaeus
was usually styled St. Irnie, and from that, the
title was finally turned into St. Renny, which
has been since in common acceptation. A
tradition was till lately current in this part of
Fife, that so much was St. Irnie held in es-
teem previous to the Reformation, that the
devotees of Anstruther, who could not see the
church of Kilrenny till they travelled up the
rising ground to what they called the Hill, on ■
arriving at the summit, pulled off their bonnets,
fell on their knees, crossed themselves, and
prayed to the saint to whom it was dedicated.
Such an alteration in the name of St. Irenajus
is countenanced by the change in the name of
a contiguous estate, which, from being at one
time called Imiehill, is now entitled Rennie-
KILSYTH.
639
hill — Population of the burgh and parish in
1821, 1494.
KILSPINDIE,-a parish in Perthshire, ly-
ing partly in the Carse of Gowrie, and partly
among the Sidlaw hills ; it is nearly of a square
form, measuring three and a half miles from
east to west, by a breadth of about three miles,
bounded by Kinnoul, Scoon, and St. Martins
on the west and north west, Kinnaird on the
north-east, Errol on the south-east, and Kin-
fauns on the south. Except a portion on the
south-eastern side which belongs to the beauti-
ful and highly cultivated Carse of Gowrie, near-
ly the whole is a hilly and generally a pastoral
territory. The Kirktown of Kilspindie stands
on a public road in the south-eastern part. A
short way north from thence is the village of
Rait, once the capital of the parochial division
of Rait, now incorporated in the present pa-
rish ; and in its immediate vicinity is Fingask
castle, the elegant seat of Sir Peter Murray
Threipland, baronet. — Population in 1821, 722-
KILSYTH, a parish in the southern part
of Stirlingshire, extending a length of seven
miles chiefly along the north side of the Kel-
vin water, by a breadth of four miles, and at
the east end by a breadth of only two miles,
bounded by Fintry and St. Ninian's on the
north, Denny on the east, Cumbernauld in
Dumbartonshire on the south, and Campsie
on the west. The rivers Carron on the north,
Bushburn on the east, Kelvin on the south,
and Inchburn on the west, form, in a great
measure, the boundaries. The surface is rough,
being an almost uninterrupted succession of
hill and dale, with a lofty mountainous range
called the Kilsyth hills, a continuation of the
Campsie fells, in the northern division. The
district is chiefly arable and of a pleasing
nature towards the Kelvin. The parish a-
bounds in coal and iron ore, vast quantities of
the latter being supplied to the Carron iron
works near Falkirk. The village of Kilsyth
is situated on the public road twelve and a half
miles from Glasgow, eleven and a half from
Falkirk, sixteen from Stirling, and five from
Kirkintulloch. It is a straggling, irregularly
built, but populous place, and the inhabitants,
amounting to upwards of two thousand indivi-
duals, are chiefly engaged in weaving for the
Glasgow manufacturers. Kilsyth is a burgh
of barony with the privilege of holding five an-
nual fairs. Besides the parish church, there is
a Relief meeting-house. Charles II. in 1661,
elevated Sir James Livingston, a branch of the
family of Linlithgow, to the dignity of Vis-
count Kilsyth, Lord Campsie, &c- for his
faithful services during the preceding civil
wars ; but the title was lost in the person of
William, the third of the rank, whose hon-
ours were attainted and estates forfeited for
joining the Earl of Mar in the insurrection of
1715. In the burial vault, at Kilsyth, of this
unfortunate family, the bodies of the last Lady
Kilsyth and her infant son lie embalmed. Kil-
syth is commemorated in the history of Scot-
land by having given its name to by far the
most brilliant victory of the Marquis of Mon-
trose, over General Baillie and the parliament-
ary forces, in the year 1 645. This battle was
fought at a place about two miles east from
Kilsyth, in a field so broken and irregular,
that, did not tradition and history concur,
it could hardly be believed that it had ever
been the scene of any military operation.
It lies around a hollow, where a reservoir is
now formed for supplying the great canal,
a little north of Shaw-end. Two or three
of Baillie's regiments began, by attempting
to dislodge a party from the cottages and
yards, but meeting with a warm reception, were
forced to retire. A general engagement then
commenced, and the undisciplined and almost
savage army of Montrose soon effectually rout-
ed their opponents. Near the field of battle, on
the south, lies a large morass, called Dullater.
Bog, through the midst of which the Forth
and Clyde Canal now stretches, and into this
dismal swamp several of Baillie's cavalry in the
hurry of flight ran unawares and perished ;
both men and horses in good preservation hav-
ing been dug up, according to the author of the
History of Stirlingshire, in the memory of per-
sons then alive. — Population of the parish in
1821, 4260.
KILTARLITY, a large mountainous pa-
rish in Inverness-shire, incorporating the sup-
pressed parish of Conveth ; extending at least
thirty miles from the north-east to the south-
west, by an average breadth of six miles, bound-
ed on the north-east by Kirkhill, on the east
by Dores, on the south by Urquhart, and on
the west and north by Kilmorack. The church
of Kiltarlity stands on the right bank of the
Beauly, nearly opposite the Kirktown of Kilmo-
rack. The lower grounds are arable, and the
district is now well wooded. — Population in
1821, 2429.
640
KILWINNING.
KILTEARN, a parish in Ross-shire, in
the district of Easter Ross, lying on the north
side of the Firth of Cromarty, and extending
ahout six miles in length. The breadth is va-
rious ; that part which is well cultivated is
ahout two miles broad from the sea-shore to
the foot of the hilly ground on the north, but
there are several grazings and Highland pos-
sessions at the distance of five, ten, and even
fifteen miles from the sea. It is bounded by
Alness on the east, Contin and Lochbroom on
the west, and by Dingwall and Fodderty on
the south. The Highland district of this
parish is, for the most part, wild and unculti-
vated, consisting of high mountains separated
from each other by rapid rivulets, and exten-
sive tracts of moor and mossy ground. The
low district of the parish, which inclines gently
from the foot of the hills towards the sea, is of
a very rich and beautiful nature, exhibiting
well cultivated fields, plantations, and pleasure
and garden grounds. The chief river in the
parish is the Skiach, which falls into the Cro-
marty Firth at Kiltearn. On its left bank
stands the small village of Drummond. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 1656.
KILVICEUEN, a parish in the island of
Mull, now incorporated with Kilfinichen. —
See Kilfinichen.
KILWINNING, a parish in the district of
Cunningham, Ayrshire, extending about nine
miles at the utmost each way, and bounded on
the north by Dairy, on the east by Dunlop and
Stewarton, on the south by Irvine, and on tbe
west by Stevenston, which divides it from the
coast of the Firth of Clyde. The parish lies
upon a gentle inclination towards the east,
with slight intermediate undulations, the tops
of which are generally covered by beautiful
plantations. Like the rest of this fertile dis-
trict, it is in a state of the highest cultivation,
and is everywhere well enclosed. It is water-
ed by the Garnock water, and by the Lugton,
a tributary of that rivulet. There are several
large collieries in the parish, and freestone
and limestone are found in great abundance.
A great part of the parish is composed of the
barony of Eglinton, which is one of the
most beautiful pieces of cultivated territory in
Scotland, as its seat, Eglinton Castle, is one
•of the most elegant and distinguished mansions.
For the early history of this family, see Eg-
linton Castle. This spot has been the prin-
cipal seat of the family for between four and
live hundred years, and has conferred upon it
its title. The ancient family house was re-
built since the commencement of the present
century, in the castellated style, and the result
is well entitled to the description above bestow-
ed upon it. It is surrounded by about two
thousand Scotch acres of park and pleasure
ground, laid out in the very best taste. The
first efforts for the decoration of this spot
were made by Alexander Earl of Eglinton,
a most liberal and patriotic young nobleman,
who unfortunately was shot in 1780, ere his
plans for the good of his country had been half
completed. Ayrshire, as already mentioned,
owes much of its present advancement in
agriculture to his exertions ; and it ought here
to be mentioned that a great part of the culti-
vated and wooded beauty of Kilwinning is also
owing to him. The statist of the parish very
properly characterises him in the well-known
lilies: —
Cui pudor et jnstitiae soror
Incorrupta fides, nudaque Veritas
Quando ullum inveniet parem ?
Multis ille bonis flebilis occidit.
Kilwinning, an ancient and now a consider-
able and thriving town in the above parish, si-
tuated on a rising ground about two miles from
the sea, three miles north-north-west of Irvine,
four south of Dairy, and four north-east of
Saltcoats. Kilwinning depends chiefly on the
weaving and manufacture of gauzes, muslins,
&c- for the Glasgow and Paisley markets.
With the contiguous village of Byres on the
west, its inhabitants amounted in the year
1821 to 1934. Two fairs are held in the town
annually. Besides the parish church, there are
two dissenting meeting-houses- This curious
old-fashioned little town stretches westward
from the right bank of the Garnock, and con-
sists chiefly of one street and some bye-lanes,
together with a few rows of modern houses.
It is approached through long umbrageous
paths, skirted by beautiful fields, and the tra-
veller, on entering from the east, is reminded
of the ancient sacred character of the place
by ascending the Cross Hill, an eminence
where, in former times, the monks of Kilwin-
ning Abbey had established the revered ensign
of Christianity, to receive the preliminary
adoration of the pilgrims who flocked to visit
their shrines. The Abbey of Kilwinning,
from which the town has evidently taken its .
origin, was one of the most wealthy and im-
portant institutions of that kind in the king-
KILWINNING.
641
dom, and was founded by Hugh de Morville,
constable of Scotland, in the year 1 1 40, while
the pious David was king of Scotland. As
such buildings were frequently founded upon
spots previously consecrated by the residence
of holy men or the ceremonies of an earlier
worship, this is believed to have been placed
here, in consequence of the previous residence
of St. Winning, a saint of the eighth cen-
tury. The memory of this pious personage is
preserved in the name of the place, Kilwinning
signifying simply the cell of Winning. It is also
commemorated by a well at no great distance
from the present manse, being called Winning's
Well; as also by a fair held annually on the
first day of February, and called Winning's
Day Fair. Either this fountain, or some
other near Kilwinning, is said by the old
monkish writers to have exemplified the miracle,
in 1184, of running for eight days and nights
with blood ; a portent which had formerly
appeared, but never for so long a space. In
the opinion of the people of the country, this
prognosticated war. Probably a redness was
given to the water by some natural cause.
Hailes' Annals. — An old popular name of Kil-
winning is Saig-town, which the statist of the
parish conjectures to mean Saint's-town — an
etymology, however, which we believe may
be liable to correction. The abbey of Kil-
winning was dedicated to St. Winning, and
appropriated for the reception of monks of the
Tyronensian order, a detachment of whom were
brought from Kelso. King Robert Bruce,
who appears to have been a most munificent
benefactor of the church, probably in order to
appease the clergy for the murder of Comyn
before one of their altars, granted to the monks
of Kilwinning the lands of Halland near Ir-
vine, as also viginti solidos, quos annuatim de
terra sua de Kilmernock heredibus de Balioh
reddere solebant. Previous to the Reformation,
through the gifts of various persons, the mo-
nastery is supposed to have enjoyed a revenue
equal to L. 20,000 of present money. The
following is a list of the parish churches be-
longing to it at that time : Kilwinning, Irvine,
Kilmarnock, Loudon, Ardrossan, Kilbirnie,
Kilbride, Beith, Dunlop, Dreghorn, Dairy,
Stevenston, and Stewarton, in the district of
Cunningham ; Dumbarton and Kilmaronock in
Dumbartonshire ; South and North Knapdale
in Argyllshire ; Kilmeny and Kilbride in the
isle of Arran. The last abbot was Gavin
Hamilton, a man of high historical note,
on account of the vigorous resistance which
he made to the progress of the Reformation.
This zealous divine not only thought it ne-
cessary to battle with the arms of the Spirit,
but was induced by the exigency of the time
to take up mortal weapons. He perished in
a skirmish between the adherents of Queen
Mary and those of James VI. fought near the
Watergate of Edinburgh, June 28, 1571. At
the general dissolution of the religious houses,
Alexander, Earl of Glencairn, so noted for his
zeal in promoting the Reformation, obtained a
grant of the abbey of Kilwinning ; but the
temporalities were afterwards (1003) erected
into a lordship in favour of the Earl of Eglin-
ton. The most remarkable circumstance con-
nected with this monastery is, that its erec-
tion is believed to have given occasion to the
introduction of Free Masonry into Scotland.
The foreign architect employed in building
the house is supposed to have brought that
inexplicable, but apparently trifling and unmean-
ing mystery — art — craft — aut quocunque alio
nomine gaudeat — and planted it in this place.
It seems at least certain, that Kilwinning
was the first place in Scotland, where Free
Masonry was established. For centuries,
Free Masonry seems to have made little
impression in Scotland ; at least it scarcely
rises into notice in history. It cannot there-
fore be ascertained whether it was in those
early ages employed for what appears to have
been its original purpose, a communication
of ideas and sentiments more free than what
was sanctioned by the public authorities, or
only what seems in later times to have been
its chief and almost exclusive use, the promo-
tion of a more decorous, but not less seductive
species of conviviality. The first historical
notice of it occurs in the reign of James I.,
that monarch having appointed that the Grand
Master should be chosen by the brethren from
either the nobility or the clergy, and that this
officer, being approven by the crown, should
receive an annual revenue of L. 4 Scots (6s. 8d.
sterling) from each Master- Mason. From the
early use of such titles, we should suppose
that masonry at the first was a grotesque imi-
tation, on the part of the class of artizans from
which it takes its name, of the great asso-
ciations instituted in the time of the Crusaders
for the protection of the Holy Sepulchre,
one of which survived till recent times in the
4 N
642
KILWINNING.
Knights of Malta. The dignity of Grand Master
was afterwards granted as a hereditary office to
the family of William Sinclair, Earl of Orkney
and Caithness, who had testified his love of at
least the operative department of masonry, by
erecting the beautiful collegiate church of Roslin .
The office having passed into the Roslin branch
of this nobleman's descendants, they used to
hold their principal annual meetings at Kilwin-
ning ; and the lodge of that place, as the parent
institution, was in the habit of granting con-
stitutions and charters to other lodges through-
out the country, all of which joined the word
Kilwinning to their own name, in token of
respect to the acknowledged birth-place of
masonry. In 1771, William Sinclair of Ros-
lin, finding himself to be the last of his race,
resigned the office into the hands of the Edin-
burgh and neighbouring lodges ; and since then
it has been elective. In gratitude for this gra-
cious act on the part of the old baron, his me-
mory is still regularly toasted at the meetings
of the Edinburgh, and perhaps also of other
lodges. The statist of the parish of Kilwin-
ning says, " The sobriety and decency of the
brethren in all their meetings, the very peculiar
and distinguishing harmony in which they
lived, and their humanity and liberality to the
sick and indigent, made the mother lodge highly
respected in the sixteenth centuiy. An un-
common spirit for masonry then exhibited it-
self. Laws founded on the original acts and
constitutions of the mother lodge, were renew-
ed, and are still adhered to. The records yet
extant at Kilwinning contain a succession of
grand masters, charters of creation to other
lodges, &c. as daughters of the mother lodge.
The Earls of Eglinton have successively pa-
tronized this lodge. Some years ago, the pre-
sent Earl made a donation to the fraternity of
a piece of ground for building a new and very
elegant lodge, and, with many other gentlemen,
anxious to preserve the rights of the very an-
cient and venerable mother lodge, liberally con-
tributed to its erection. There is a common
seal, expressive of the antiquity of the mother
lodge, and of the emblems of the ancient art
of masonry, and by which charters and all
other public deeds of the society are ratified."
By the institution of the Grand Lodge of Scot-
land, which is located at Edinburgh, the use
of the Kilwinning mother lodge has been of
late years in a great measure superseded ; but
still we must acknowledge, with the author of
27.
the Beauties of Scotland, " that the humble
village of Kilwinning, considered as the spot
where this order was preserved while it was
extinguished on the continent of Europe, and
from which it was to rise from its ashes, and
spread to the rising and setting sun, enjoys a
singular degree of importance, which it could
scarcely have obtained from any other circum-
stance." Besides its distinction on account of
free-masonry, Kilwinning is also remarkable
for being the seat of a very ancient company
of archers. This noble art is practised at differ-
ent places in Scotland, as at Edinburgh, St.
Andrews, Peebles, and Musselburgh • but no-
where does it seem to have so long flourished
as at Kilwinning. While archery seems to
have been practised at those places only for
amusement, and from no remote date, it would
appear to have originated here, in consequence
of the acts of the early Scottish kings for the
encouragement of archery as a branch of the
military system of the state. It is pretty well
authenticated that the company existed in 1488.
The members meet to practise their delightful
and romantic recreation in June. " Two kinds
of archery," says the statist so often quoted,
" have been practised here from time immemo-
rial. The one is a perpendicular mark, called
the papingo. The papingo is a bird well
known in heraldry : [the parrot.] It is on this
occasion cut out in wood, fixed in the end of a
pole, and placed 120 feet high on the steeple of
the monastery. The archer who shoots down
this mark is honoured with the title of Captain
of the Papingo. He is master of the ceremo-
nies for the ensuing year, sends cards of invita-
tion to the ladies, gives them a ball and sup-
per, and transmits his honours to posterity by
a medal with suitable devices, appended to a
silver arrow. The prize from 1488 to 1688
was a sash, or as it was called a benn, consist-
ing of a piece of taffeta or Persian, of different
colours, chiefly red, green, white, and blue, and
not less in value than L.20 Scots. This ho-
nourable badge was worn and kept by the cap-
tain, who produced another of equal value the
following year. At the revival of archery in
1 688, there was substituted a piece of plate,
which continued to be given by every captain
till 1723, when the present silver arrow was sub-
stituted. The other kind of shooting is at butts,
point blank distance (about twenty- six yards.)
The prize at butts is some useful piece of
plate, given annually to the society by the senior
K INCA 11 DINES H ft E.
643
jurviving archer." It cannot have escaped the
recollection of our readers, that the custom of
shooting the papingo is introduced fictitiously
into the tale of " Old Mortality," where, how-
ever, it is called the Popinjay. Unless we are
misinformed, this latter word is now generally
used to designate the Kilwinning festival, and
the mark is composed, not as formerly of a
piece of wood, but of a bundle of feathers, ar-
ranged in such a way as to resemble a parrot,
and this is tied to the top of the pole by a
6tring, like the pigeon shot for in the fifth
book of the -ZEneid. The Society, or more
properly the Company, is at present in a most
respectable and flourishing condition. Kil-
winning is superintended magisterially by a
baron bailie. The parish church, with a fine
modern spire, stands amidst the few remaining
fragments of the once splendid abbey. — Po-
pulation of the town and parish in 1821, 3696.
KINCARDINESHIRE, frequently and
familiarly styled the Mearns, a county on the
east coast of Scotland, of a triangular form ;
bounded by Aberdeenshire on the north, by
Forfarshire en the south-west, and on the re-
maining quarters by the sea ; extending in its
greatest length from south-west to north-east
82 miles, and in a direction, at right angles
across, 22 miles. By a correct measurement
taken in 1774, by Mr. Gardner, who surveyed
it for a map, it was found to contain 243,444
English acres ; which, by a very minute inves-
tigation, made by Mr. George Robertson in
1807, were found to be characterised as fol-
lows : —
In actual cultivation 74,849
Improvable by tillage 27,816
Woodland, natural or planted 1 7,609
Mountains, &c. 123,170;
occupied by the following descriptions of live
stock : —
Milch cows 6236
Draft oxen 446
Calves rearing 5280
Other cattle 12,863
Horses of all kinds 2887
Sheep 24,927
Swine, fully grown,
chiefly brood swine 478
The population in 1821, was 29,118, of whom
only about 8000 lived in towns or villages.
The valued rent of the county is L.74,921,
Is. 4d. Scots; the real rent in 1804 .was
L.67,748 Sterling, in 1811 L.159,875. It
must now be much more. Kincardineshire is
occasionally, in popidar parlance, called the
Mearns ; but this phrase, after the strictest
investigation, seems only properly applicable
to the champaign and more populous district
of the county. Part of this district is called
the Howe (or hollow) o' the Mearns, from its
being sunk between a large branch of the
Grampians on the one hand, and a more gentle
swelling territory which divides it from the sea
on the other ; it is properly a continuation of
the great valley of Strathmore. Mearns is
probably a word of local meaning ; but it is
generally said to have been affixed to this part
of Scotland, from its having become the pro-
perty of Mernia, a brother of King Kenneth
II. ; another brother, called Angus, conferring
his name upon the neighbouring county of For-
far. The county is naturally divided into four
districts, whereof the Howe of the Mearns, and
the swelling ground between it and the sea, are
the most important ; the third division, con-
sisting of the detachment of the Grampians
above mentioned, generally called the Braes of
Fordoun, while the fourth lies in the northern
part of the county, within the district of Mar.
The term Mearns- shire, which is sometimes
used, is a vulgar error. Kincardineshire has
figured very little in history ; its peasantry,
however, have always been considered an indus-
trious and able race of men. " The Men of the
Mearns," is a proverbial expression of old date :
There is also another common saying, flatter-
ing to this people — " I can do fat I dow (can J;
the men o' the Meams can do nae mair."
The Hollow of the Mearns being the only
proper access to the north of Scotland, owing
to the hills occupying uninterruptedly all the
rest of the breadth except at this point, it has
been the common passage for armies going to
and fro, since the earliest periods of history;
yet, unless the great battle between Galgacusand
Agricola took place here, it has not been the
scene of any great military achievements. The
county is now almost exclusively of an agri-
cultural character ; for though blessed with a
sea-coast of thirty-five miles in extent, it pos-
sesses no harbour of any eminence; neither
have manufactures of any kind made a great
progress in the district. The soil is of a
very productive kind, and is cultivated in a
style no where surpassed in Scotland; of
which there is gcod evidence in the fact
that of all the hads in tillage nearly a
644
KINCARDINE.
seventh part is yearly in turnip. Much
of this is owing to the example set by the
landed gentlemen in the latter part of the last
century, in the introduction of a more spirited
system of cultivation ; an example readily
adopted by an intelligent and industrious te-
nantry. The county, in its more level parts,
is highly embellished by the country seats of
its numerous resident proprietors, each amid
its own thriving woodland. Kincardineshire
takes its name from Kincardine, formerly
a small town in the parish of Fordoun, and
which was the seat of the county courts, &c,
till the year 1600, when they were removed
to Stonehaven. Kincardine, which has now
dwindled into a mere hamlet or farm- stead-
ing, was connected with an ancient seat of
royalty, called Kincardine Castle, of which
only the foundations of the walls can now be
traced. Kincardine signifies, in Gaelic, the
clan of friends ; and the name is applied
to several parishes and towns throughout
Scotland, though it does not designate any
parish in the county under notice. In Kin-
cardineshire there is no coal or marl, and very
little limestone, all of which circumstances
bear hard upon agricultural improvement, —
though it must be confessed they only seem to
have excited more strongly the spirit of enter-
prise in its husbandmen, who import lime in
great quantities from England, and from the
Firth of Forth. The county is divided into
nineteen parishes, and it contains seven or
eight small towns, as Stonehaven, the county-
town, Bervie, a small royal burgh, Johnshaven,
Lawrencekirk, Fettercairn, Fordoun, and Au-
cbinblae, &c. The principal rivers connected
with the county are — the Dee, which passes
for eight or ten miles through the northern
limb of Kincardineshire, the North Esk, which
forms the boundary on the south-west for about
ten miles, Cowie Water, which falls into the
sea at Stonehaven, after a course of ten miles,
Carron, which is describable in the same terms,
Bervie Water, which, after a course of fourteen
or sixteen miles, discharges itself into the sea
at Inverbervie, and the Luther Water, a tribu-
tary of the North Esk. The chief mountains
are — the Cairn o'Mount, called of old the
Muunth, (and perhaps the Mons Grampius of
Tacitus,) a steep and barren mountain, 2000
feet high, in the south front of the Grampians,
and over which the direct road from Forfar-
shire to Dee»side passes in a zig-zag fashion —
Clachnabane, in the parish of Strachan, 2370
feet high, remarkable for a protuberance of
solid rock at the top, which projects about 100
feet above the surface, and looks like the ruins
of some ancient fort ; serving also, as a good
land-mark at sea, fifteen or twenty miles off —
Strathfenella, a detached Grampian in the vi-
cinity of Fordoun, supposed to be from 1200
to 1500 feet high — Mount Battoch, on the
boundary line between Kincardine and Forfar-
shires, stated in Garden's Map to be 3465 feet
in height, and the most lofty of all the Gram-
pians in this quarter — and the Hill of Fare, in
that part of the county which lies to the north
of the Dee, 1500 feet high.
Kincardine, a parish in the counties of Ross
and Cromarty, separated from Sutherlandshire
on the north by the river Oickel. It extends
upwards of thirty miles in length from east to
west. At the east end it is very narrow, but
widens gradually to the extent of nearly twenty
miles at its western extremity, where the great
forest of Balnagown is situated. It consists
of several straths or glens, and abounds with
hills and rivers. Craig- Chonichan, where Mon-
trose fought his last battle, lies in this parish;
the place is called the Rock of Lamentation, from
this event. The village and small harbour of
Kincardine are situated on the coast of the
Firth of Dornoch Population in 1821, 1666.
KINCARDINE, a parish in the southern
part of Perthshire, district of Menteith, chiefly
lying as a peninsula betwixt the Forth on the
south, and the Teith on the north, these streams
uniting at the south-east point of the parish.
This division of Kincardine parish is bounded
by Kilmadock on the west and north, Lecropt
on the east, and Gargunnock on the south ; in
its extent measuring upwards of four miles
from east to west, and above three miles in
breadth at the widest part. There is a second
division of the parish of about half the size oi
this, lying beyond Kilmadock parish on the
west, adjoining Port-Menteith, and bounded
by Kippen on the south. Altogether, the
parish has been computed to contain 6000
acres. The parish is situated in the widest
part of the valley, called the Strath of Men-
teith, and both on the Forth and Teith pos-
sesses the most beautiful grounds, with planta-
tions in the finest order, and cultivation on the
best scale. Adjacent to the Teith, and on
the road from Stirling to Doune by the right
bank of that river, is the highly omameutcd
KINCARDINE.
645
and improved estate of Blair-Drummond,
whose moss has obtained a considerable noto-
riety from the operations performed upon it.
This moss, which for ages had been of no
farther use than the production of peats to the
neighbouring inhabitants, was begun to be im-
proved in the year 1770, by the late Henry
Home, Lord Kames, a senator of the college
of justice, and the author of several eminent
works, and continued by his son and successor,
Mr. Home Drummond. Originally covering
2000 acres, with a depth of from three to
twelve feet of peat bog, this vast extent of
moss has been for the last sixty years in the
course of gradual diminution, by a process
of cutting and floating away into the waters
of the Teith and Forth. Many hundreds
of acres of the superincumbent moss have
been thus cleared, leaving a soil for agricul-
tural operations similar to that of the Carse
lands, and the ground is now under a course of
regular farming. Such a violent system of im-
provement has been frequently objected to as
highly injudicious, and it has been often said
that the reduction of the moss to ashes by
burning would have been more to the purpose
of creating a productive soil. This is, how-
ever, one of the nicely disputed points among
agriculturists. It has been asserted, probably
erroneously, that the incessant pollution of
the above rivers by the masses of floating
mossy matter, has been the means of injuring
the salmon-fishings in the Forth. As the
pieces of moss neither sink nor decompose for
a considerable space of time, they may be seen
at all times floating over the whole of the
Firth and for a great distance out to sea. The
parish of Kincardine contains two villages,
both in the western division, and now almost
united, namely, Thornhill and Norrieston.
The parish church being at the centre of the
eastern division, there is a chapel of ease at
Thornhill — Population in 1821, 2388.
KINCARDINE, a considerable thriving
town in the parish of Tulliallan, in the south-
ern detached part of Perthshire, situated on
the shore of the Firth of Forth, near its upper
extremity, at the distance of five miles east
from Alloa, four west from Culross, ten from
Dunfermline, fifteen from North Queensferry,
and twenty-five from Edinburgh. At one time
the place used to be called West- Pans, from
the salt- works carried on, and which, in the
year 1780, were fifteen in number ; but these
manufactories, as well as the name they induc-
ed, are now gone. The houses of Kincardine
are well built, but the streets are narrow, dirty,
and irregular. The sea-port Kincardine is one
of the most thriving towns on the Forth, having
now a good quay and harbour, and there being
a considerable trade in the building of vessels,
chiefly for coasting. That predilection for being
ship-owners, mentioned under thehead of Kirk-
aldy, as being strongly characteristic of the in-
habitants along the shores of Fife, is here par-
ticularly observable. By a recent calculation,
there were upwards of fifty ship-owners in Kin-
cardine, which is a great proportion of the per-
sons engaged in trade. A company is formed
among the ship-owners for mutual insurance of
their vessels, a complete protection against the
danger of individual loss at sea being thus
judiciously rendered. In the town there are
works for making sails and ropes. Distilla-
tion is carried on at Tulliallan in the neigh-
bourhood. There is a brewery in the town.
Kincardine is a burgh of barony under the
government of several bailies. A fair is held
on the last Friday in July. The established
church is at Tulliallan, but there is a dissenting
meeting-house in the place. — Population in
1821, about 2500.
KINCARDINE O'NEIL, a parish in
Aberdeenshire, lying with its south-western
side to the river Dee, and stretching north-
wards from thence a distance of between seven
and eight miles, by a breadth of seven in the
southern division, and but three in the north-
ern ; bounded by Aboyne and Lumphanan on
the west, Tough and Cluny on the north ; Mid-
mar and Banchory- Ternan on the east, and Ban-
chory- Ternan and the Dee on the south. It is
partly hilly and pastoral and partly arable, with
a proportion of excellent plantations. The vil-
lage of Kincardine O'Neil, which is the seat of
a presbytery, stands on the public road on the
left bank of the Dee, and commands an exten-
sive prospect up the river towards the Gram-
pian mountains. It is esteemed as an excel-
lent place for the summer retirement of inva-
lids Population in 1821, 1793.
KINCHARDINE, a parish in Inverness-
shire, incorporated with Abernethy — See
Abernethy and Kinchardine.
KINCLAVEN, a parish in the beautiful
and fertile district of Stormonr, Perthshire,
bounded by Caputh on the north and north-
east, Cargill on the south-east, and Auchter-
046
K I N F A U N S,
gaven on the south and west ; in form, it is
oblong, being about four and a half miles long
by little more than two broad. The Tay
sweeps round the northern and eastern bound-
ary of the district, and it is chiefly in the vici-
nity of this noble river that the land is under
good cultivation, enclosures and plantations.
The principal village in the parish is Arntilly,
situated in the south-western part, a few miles
west from the church. Besides this, there are
some small villages, all on the public roads. The
fishings of the Tay are here valuable. The an-
cient castle of Kinclaven stands in ruins on the
banks of the river. — Population in 1821, 986.
KINCRAIG POINT, a headland on the
coast of Fife, immediately east of Largo bay.
KINDER, (LOCH) a small lake in the
parish of New-abbey, stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, with an islet showing the ruins of an
ancient chapel, and emitted by a streamlet to
the estuary of the Nith.
KINFAUNS, a parish in Perthshire, at
the western extremity of the Carse of Gowrie,
beautifully situated on the left bank of the Tay,
bounded by Errol and St. Madoes on the east,
part of Kinnoul parish and the Tay on the
south, the larger division of Kinnoul on the
west and north ; also on the north by Kilspin-
die. In form it is very irregular, extending about
five miles in length, by the average breadth of
two and a half, and containing altogether 3780
Scots acres. The parish lies chiefly in a hol-
low or valley, which gradually opens in an east-
erly direction, into the plain ef the Carse of
Gowrie, and is partly encompassed by lofty
eminences richly wooded. A part of the con-
spicuous and romantic hill of Kinnoul is within
the parish. The road from Dundee to Perth
passes through the lower division of the parish
near the Tay. In this quarter stands the an-
cient seat of the family of Seggieden, who still
possess their drinking horn, a vessel which has
enjoyed a considerable celebrity. It is about
fourteen inches deep, straight and tapering,
with ornamental rings round it. The princi-
pal use of this heir-loom seems to have been
similar to that of the horn of Rorie More, as
described by Dr. Johnson : every successive
heir of the family, on his accession to the es-
tate, had to prove his being a worthy represen-
tative of his ancestors, by drinking its contents
at a draught. There was a rhyme used on this
occasion : " Sook it out, Seggieden ! though it's
thin, it's wee! pledged ;" and the young laird
had to sound a whistle at the bottom of the
horn, after having sooked out the liquor, to
signify that he had redeemed his pledge. The
same ceremony was gone through, to prove
the powers of the laird's guests. Nearly a
mile west from Seggieden, stands Kinfauns
Castle, the seat of Lord Gray. This re-
markably fine edifice occupies a delightful
situation on an elevation overlooking the Tay,
and the Carse to the east. " In the Castle of
Kinfauns," says the writer of the Statistical
Account of the parish, " is kept a large old
sword, probably made near five hundred years
ago, and to be used by both hands. It is
shaped like a broad sword, and is five feet
nine inches long, two and a half inches broad
at the hilt, and of a proportionable thickness,
with a round knob at the upper end near eight
inches in circumference. This terrible weapon
bears the name of Charteris' sword; and pro-
bably belonged to Sir Thomas Charteris,
commonly called Thomas de Longueville,
once proprietor of the estate of Kinfauns.
Sir Thomas Charteris, alias Longueville, was
a native of France, and of an ancient family
in that country. If credit can be given to ac-
counts of such remote date, when he was at
the court of Philip le Bel, in the end of the
thirteenth century, he had a dispute with, and
killed, a French nobleman in the king's pre-
sence. He escaped, but was refused pardon.
Having, for several years, infested the seas as
a pirate, known by the name of the Red
Reaver, from the colour of the flags he carried
on his ships, in 1301 or 1302, Sir William
Wallace, in his way to France, encountered
and took him prisoner. At Wallace's inter-
cession, the French king conferred on him a
pardon, and the honour of knighthood. He
accompanied Wallace on his return to Scot-
land, and was ever after his faithful friend,
and aided in his exploits. Upon that hero's
being betrayed, and carried to England, Sir
Thomas Charteris retired to Lochmaben,
where he remained till Robert Bruce began to
assert his right to the crown of Scotland.
He joined Bruce ; and was, if we may believe
Adamson, who refers to Barbour, the first
who followed that king into the water at the
taking of Perth, January 8, 1313. Bruce re-
warded his bravery, by giving him lands in the
neighbourhood of Perth, which appear to have
been those of Kinfauns, and which continued
in the family of Charteris for many years. Il
K I N G H O R N.
647
is to this ancient knight, and to the antique
sword above-mentioned, that Adamson refers
in these,, lines (Book VI.) of his Muse's
Threnodie.
Kinfauns, which Thomas Longueville
Some time did hold, whose ancient sword of steel
Remains unto this day, and of that land
Is chiefest evident.
About forty years ago, upon opening the
burying vault under the aisle of the Church of
Kinfauns, erected by this family, there was
found a head-piece, or kind of helmet, made of
several folds of linen, or some strong stuff,
painted over with broad stripes of blue and
white, which seems to have been part of the
fictitious armour wherein the body of Thomas
Longueville, or Charteris, had been deposited"
—Population in 1821, 802.
KINGARTH, a parish in the county and
isle of Bute, occupying the southern part, to
the extent of a third of the whole island.
Loch Fadd is its boundary from the parish of
Rothesay. The kirk is situated inland, op-
posite Kilchatten Bay on the east coast.
Mount- Stewart, the elegant seat of the Mar-
quis of Bute, is within the parish, and occupies
an agreeable site on the east side of the is-
land, having an extensive prospect towards the
Cumbray Islands and the Ayrshire coast. It
is environed by extensive plantations. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 890.
KING-EDWARD, properly KEN-
ED A R, a parish in the northern part of
Aberdeenshire, extending twelve miles in
length from east to west, by from two to five
in breadth, having its western extremity lying
on the river Deveron, and bounded by Gamrie
on the north, Tyrie on the east, and Mont-
quhitter and Turriff on the south. The surface
is hilly, heathy, and only about one half arable.
There are, however, large plantations, and the
district is improving. The only village is
New-Byth on the south-eastern extremity of
the parish, situated about three miles north
from Cumineston, both of which places arose,
in the course of last century, by the exertions
and patronage of their respective" proprietors.
New-Byth was begun to be feued in 1764.
A streamlet, tributary to the Deveron, flows
I through the parish in a westerly direction, and
on its right bank stands the nun of the ancient
Castle of Ken-Edar, once the seat of the po-
tent Earl of Buchan.— Population in 1821,
1822.
KINGHORN, a parish in the county of
Fife, bounded on the south and east by the
Firth of Forth, on the west by Burntisland and
Aberdour, on the north by Auchtertoul and
Abbotshall ; extending about three miles along
the coast, and stretching rather more into the
interior. The island of Inchkeith, in the Firth
of Forth, is a detached part of the parish.
There are two harbours, one at the town of
Kinghorn, the other a little to the west at
Pettycur : these form the ordinary landing
places on the north side of the Firth of Forth
for boats crossing by the ferry from Newhaven.
On the coast about half way between the two
ports, is a basaltic rock, composed of columns
about twelve feet in height, of, different dia-
meters, each having from four to seven faces.
Within the parish, moreover, is a mineral
spring, considered to be of a powerfully diur-
etic quality, and calculated to give vigour to
debilitated constitutions, as also to relieve
difficulty of breathing, and allay inflammation
both external and internal. An account of it
was published in 1618 by the famous Dr.
Anderson, inventor of the pills which go
by his name. The surface of the parish is
beautifully diversified by rising grounds, now
generally under a high state of cultivation.
About a mile to the west of the town, is Ihe
fatal rock, a lofty and rugged eminence, which
proved the death of king Alexander III. This
monarch was pressing forward from Inverkeith-
ing to Kinghorn, late in the evening. The
night was dark, and the road wound dangerous-
ly along some precipitous cliffs overhanging the
sea ; his courtiers earnestly entreated him to
delay his journey till the morning ; but he in-
sisted on advancing ; and his horse, making a
false step, stumbled over a cliff, and, falling
with its rider, killed him in an instant. The
place is still pointed out, in the tradition of the
neighbourhood by the name of " the King's
Wood-end," and a cross of stone was erected
on the spot, which existed in the reign of
James II. The fatal consequences of the
death of this monarch, who had so long govern-
ed Scotland " in luve and lee," are well known.
The accident happened on the 16th of March
1285. In England, if we are to believe the
chronicler Knighton, the death of Alexander
was considered as a judgment from heaven for
his having broken the holy season of Lent by
a visit to his queen ! The country hereabouts
was at that early period entirely covered with
648
K I N G H O R N.
wood. A farm in the neighbourhood of the
scene of the accident is called Woodfield-
park. At one period there was a regular
royal residence on the high ground overlooking
the town, and we observe that, previous to the
death of Alexander III., it was frequently
occupied by the kings or their relatives. When
Alexander II. married the Princess Joan of
England in 1221, she was secured in a join-
ture rent of L.1000 upon the royal lands of
Jedburgh, Lassudden, Kinghorn, and Crail.
The royal house and demesne were afterwards
gifted by Robert II. to Sir John Lyon, who
had married the king's third daughter Jane by
Elizabeth Mure ; hence, the family of Lyon,
which first was advanced to the dignity of
the baronage under the title of Lord Glammis,
and was in 1606 elevated to a superior rank
under the title of Earl of Kinghorn. This
title was changed by the consent of Charles II.
to that at present borne by the family ( Earl of
Strathmore) in consequence, we have heard,
of the dislike which Patrick, the third earl of
Kinghorn, conceived against it. It is said by
tradition that the title Kinghorn became ab-
breviated into the mean and disagreeable epi-
thet of " Hornie," and that as the earl was
walking along the streets of Edinburgh, the very
boys would cry that word after him in ridicule.
Hence, as the place was at the best a rather
homely seat for an earldom, his lordship made
interest to obtain the more noble and sono-
rous title of Strathmore.
Kinghorn, an ancient town and royal burgh,
the capital of the above parish, occupying an
agreeable situation on the face of a sloping
ground to the Firth of Forth, directly opposite
Leith, at the distance of three miles south from
Kirkaldy. Kinghorn is understood to be one of
the oldest towns in Fife, and derives its name —
not from any circumstance connected with a king,
—but from the adjoining promontory of land,
styled in Gaelic cean gorn or gorm, signifying
the blue head. Such an etymology is found to
be countenanced by the popular title kln-gorn,
the name in use by the common people being
here, as is often the case elsewhere, the more
correct. The town had risen to some conse-
quence in the reign of David I., in the twelfth
century, when it was created a royal burgh,
having all its privileges confirmed by Alexan-
der III. Till within the last forty years we
find Kinghorn to have been one of the most
irregularly and meanly constructed towns in I
the district, the greater part of the houses be-
ing of two storeys, with outside stairs to the
street, which was generally in a very dirty
state. Several of these houses still remain,
but in the present day the town has undergone
a variety of beneficial improvements, and now
possesses many modern substantial edifices.
Formerly the court-house and jail were in an
old building in the centre of the town, called
St. Lawrence's Tower ; but there is now an ele-
gant new edifice for these purposes. Besides this,
the only other public erection worthy of special
notice, is a handsome new school-house, en-
closed within an extensive play-ground at the
west end of the town. The plan for this erec-
tion, which possesses a small spire, was fur-
nished by Mr. Hamilton, and displays his usual
taste for elegance combined with utility. It
contains an infant school-room, a female school-
room, a common school-room, and a library and
museum. Towards this building the town's
people subscribed L.200, the burgal corpora-
tion gave the ground and L. 150, and the heritors
of the parish also contributed L.150. The
system of education pursued is that which Pro-
fessor Pillans has laid down in his well-known
work on that subject. By referring to the ar-
ticle KntKALDY it will be seen that the town
of Kinghorn is entitled to a portion of the mu-
nificent endowment for education by the late
Robert Philp, Esq. of that place, and in vir-
tue of this grant a certain number of children
aTe gratuitously taught the elementary branches.
Kinghorn possesses a small and not very good
harbour, and though nominally enjoying the
importance of being the seat of the ferry across
the Firth of Forth to Leith and Newhaven,
all boats engaged in this thoroughfare land at
Pettycur, a small village or hamlet, with a
more accessible port, lying about half a mile
to the west. The trade of Kinghorn, it is sa-
tisfactory to remark, has not lagged behind in
the general career of improvement and pros-
perity, observable in most of the Fife towns.
Like the rest, its chief trade is that connected
with the spinning and preparation of lint for
the linen fabrics for which the county is now
so deservedly reputed. The town now pos-
sesses two large spinning establishments, mov-
ed by steam power, which employ a good num-
ber of persons ; weaving by the hand is the .
other chief trade in Kinghorn. Though la-
bouring under the disadvantage of a poor har-
bour, in which hardly any shipping is ever
KINGLASSIE.
649
Been, and with the above exceptions, having
little local traffic, Kinghorn exhibits a pleas-
ing example of what may be done, under very
discouraging circumstances, for the improve-
ment and advancement of a town. These ob-
jects, with the cultivation of their minds, seem
to occupy a great part of the attention of the
inhabitants- Though the burgh be possessed
of a very small free revenue, yet, by strict eco-
nomy, private subscription, and, what is most
honourable to the working classes, their volun-
tary labour after work hours, the burgesses are
securing, as far as in their power, the comfort of
good roads and streets, public libraries, and, in
conjunction with the heritors and private sub-
scribers of the parish, have founded a seminary
and erected a school-house which would do ho-
nour to any city. Altogether, a stranger might
be astonished to learn the progress which has
been made in this ancient little burgh during
the last four years in all kinds of establish-
ments that tend to the diffusion of knowledge :
two large scientific libraries have been insti-
tuted within a very short time. In searching
for the cause of so creditable a taste for liter-
ature, it is found that much has been owing
to the free perusal of newspapers and periodi-
cal works by the industrious artisans of the
town, who, like most persons of their class
engaged at large factories, are keenly alive to
passing events. During the excitation of poli-
tical feeling in 1830 and in the summer of
1831, the magistrates of the burgh rendered
themselves highly popular by their singularly
independent tone in the election contests. The
civic government is placed in a provost, two
bailies, a treasurer, and town-clerk. The
town-council in 1818, much to their honour,
set an example of reforming themselves, and
have since by their public acts and various im-
provements shown what a reformed magistracy
may effect. The burgh joins with Kirkaldy,
Dysart, and Burntisland, in electing a mem-
ber of parliament. Besides the parish church
there is a Burgher meeting-house. The fast day
of the church is the Thursday before the third
Sunday of July. — Population of the town in
1821, 1500, including the parish, 2443.
KINGLASSIE, a parish in the county of
Fife, bounded by Auchterderran on the west,
Dysart on the south, Markinch on the east,
and Leslie on the north, extending four miles
in length by two in breadth at the east end,
and four at the west. A hilly range separates
the bulk of the parish from the vale of the
Leven on the north, and from these uplands
the grounds spread away into an arable vale of
considerable length and breadth. Through the
bottom flows the Lochty, a streamlet which
joins the Orr, and on the former stands the
confused village of Kinglassie, which is said
to derive its name from being the " head of the
grey moor," a signification pointing out the
former condition of the vale. The village is
situated at the distance of two miles arid a
half south-west of Leslie, and seven north
from Kinghorn. The road on which it stands
is rather unfrequented. The inhabitants are
supported principally by weaving, and the place
is entitled to hold two annual fairs. Inch-
dairnie, the seat of John Aytoun, Esq., is
pleasantly situated about a mile east from the
village, amidst some old plantations. — Popu-
lation in 1821, 1027.
KINGOLDRUM, a parish in Forfarshire,
bounded by Lentrathen on the west, the upper
division of Kirriemuir on the north, Cortachy
and the lower division of Kirriemuir on the
east, and Airly on the south. In length it
extends seven miles by a breadth of two and a
half. The Prosen water flows along a portion
of its east side. The parish is hilly or moun-
tainous, with small rivulets between the hills.
In the north part of the district the mountains
rise to a considerable height, especially one
termed Catlaw. On this and the adjoining
mountains there is excellent pasture for sheep,
and Catlaw mutton is esteemed for its delicacy.
The lower portions of the parish are in a high
state of cultivation. The village of Kingol-
drum lies in the southern part, a few miles
north-west of Kirriemuir. — Population in
1821, 517.
KINGOODIE, a small village in the pa-
rish of Longforgan, Perthshire, erected to ac-
commodate the workmen of an adjacent free-
stone quarry of the same name.
KING'S-BARNS, a parish in the eastern
part of Fife, lying with its east side to the
German Ocean, and bounded by Crail on the
south, Denino on the west, and St. Andrews
on the north ; in form it is nearly a square of
four miles. Originally the parish belonged to
Crail, and it only became a separate cure in
1631. The district is arable and of a very
productive nature. Pitmilly, the seat of ona
of the most ancient families in Fife, is in the
northern part of the parish, near the sea.
4 o
650
KINLOSS.
The village of King's- Barns lies a mile to the
south, on the public road, round the coast,
and at a short distance, on the south-east,
stands Cambo-House, the seat of Sir David
Erskine. The parish, especially in this quar-
ter, abounds in freestone. Limestone, and
ironstone also prevail. The village of King's-
Barns stands six miles south-east of St. An-
drews, and three and a half north of Crail.
The inhabitants are generally employed in the
weaving of linen goods ; and the place is en-
titled to hold two annual fairs. — Population in
18-21, 998.
KING'S KETTLE.— See Kettle.
KING'S-MUIR, a district in Fife.— See
Denino.
KINGUSSIE and INCH, a mountainous
pastoral parish in the district of Badenoch,
Inverness- shire, extending twenty miles in
length, by seventeen in breadth, bounded on
the north by Moy and Dalarossie, on the east
by Alvie, on the south by Blair in Athole,
and on the west by Laggan. The district is
intersected by the Spey, which pursues a sinu-
ous course through the low country, and on
its left bank, on the great road from Perth to
Inverness, stands the beautiful village of Kin-
gussie, at the distance of 43 miles from Inver-
ness, and 72 from Perth. It possesses a
small jail, with a court-room, in which justice
of peace courts for the district of Badenoch
are held. The village is entitled to hold
five fairs annually. About four miles farther
up the Spey is Spey-Bridge, which carries the
road across towards the south. Some miles
down the river on the right bank stands the
small village of Inch. Rothiemurchus is the
next village on the same side. The conjoint
parish of Kingussie and Inch is well watered
by a number of small streams — Population
in 1821, 2006.
KINLOCH, a parish in Perthshire, of an ir-
regular long figure, extending nearly seven miles
in length, by an average breadth of one and
a half; bounded by Blairgowrie on the east,
Cluny on the south and part of the west, a
smaller division of Blairgowrie also on the
west, and Bendothy on the north. The sur-
face is finely diversified by lakes, woods,
and gentlemen's seats, all uniting to render the
scenery highly beautiful. There are three
l<;kes, all in the southern division, namely,
Drumelie loch, the Rae loch, and the Fenzies
loch ; the first of these is the largest, and from
9S_ 1
their banks, the ground rises to the northward
in well -cultivated fields for several miles. The
kirk-town of the parish stands on the public
road on the south-east verge of the district.
— Population in 1821, 415.
KINLOSS, a parish in the northern part
of the county of Moray or Elgin, lying on the
shore of the Moray firth, bounded on the east
by Alves, on the south and south-west by
Rafford and Forres. It is of a square form,
and level surface, measuring ebout three and
a half miles each way. It is well- cultivated
and enclosed. The village of Findhorn, at
the mouth of the river of that name, is in the
parish. Before arriving at this small sea-port,
the river Findhorn forms a lake of considera-
ble magnitude, and at its south-east extremity,
on a streamlet which enters it, stands the kirk-
town of Kinloss, which, judging from the situa-
tion, it is said, should be properly styled Kin-
loch; but such an etymology is extremely
doubtful, for in old writings the place is va-
riously called Killoss and Kilfloss which are
interpreted into, " the church on the water."
The religious structure thus designated, we ima-
gine either to have been an abbey of Cistertian
monks, of considerable celebrity, which was
founded here by David I. in the year 1 150, or
some chapel which was then superseded, of a
more remote antiquity. There prevailed at
one time a popular tradition, to the effect
that on one occasion the life of King Duffus
was here preserved by concealing himself be-
neath a bridge, and that a chapel was reared
in thankfulness for his escape from those who
sought his life. Dempster, following this
story, gives the following account of it, and the
reason for its foundation : " Killoss, in Mora-
via, nomen habet a fiuctibus, qui, praeter am-
nis naturam, derepente vicino in campo pullu-
larent, dum Duffi Regis corpus revelaretur.
Coenobium, post duo fere secula quam Duffus
occubuit, fundatum in memoriam miraculi
quod ibidem contigisse memoratur." Boethius
speaks of the circumstance in a similar man-
ner. Pursuing the relation of the event, he
adds, " Nunc ibi ccenobium est, cum amplissi-
mo templo, Divae Virgini sacro, atque augus-
tissimo, aedibusque magnificae structurae pio-
rum ccetu Cistertiensis instituti insigne, nulli
in Albione religionis observatione secundum."
One of the most distinguished abbots of the
Cistertian monastery was Robert Reid, official
of Moray in 1530, bishop of Orkney in 1557,
K I N E L L A R.
651
•nd president for some time of the court of
eession. He was employed in various state
negotiations and assisted at the marriage of
Queen Mary with the Dauphin of France.
He has been much commended by Spottis-
wood, for his integrity and care in the adminis-
tration of justice, but though the primary en-
dower of the Edinburgh University, which was
begun from a legacy of his, amounting to 8000
merks, specially for that purpose, his name has
been completely forgotten in Scotland. The
abbey of Kinloss owned property to the extent
of upwards of L. 1200 per annum, and at the
Reformation, when the whole was seized,
Mr. Edward Bruce, commissary of Edinburgh,
afterwards a lord of session, was made com-
mendator of the establishment, and elevated to
the condition of Baron Kinloss in 1604. His
son, Thomas Bruce, received the increased
dignity of Earl of Elgin in 1 633, from Charles I. ,
and his descendants still enjoythe title. — Popu-
lation in 1821, 1071.
KINNAIRD, a suppressed parish in For-
farshire, now divided between the parishes of
Fernell and Brechin.
KINNAIRD, a parish in Perthshire, in
the district of Gowrie, and partly within the
carse of that name, lying betwixt Abernyte on
the north-east, and Kilspindie on the south-
west, Inchture an*? Errol on the south-
east, and Collace on the north-west. In form
it is nearly square, being three miles in length
by two in breadth. The grounds in the hilly
district on the north are pastoral ; those in the
beautiful carse on the south are agricultural.
In the parish, on the right of the road in passing
northward, are slight remains of the ancient
castle of Kinnaird, which, along with the
barony lands of Kinnaird, belong to the noble
family of that name. — Population in 1821, 465.
KINNAIRD HEAD, a promontory on
the coast of Buchan, Aberdeenshire, a short
way north of Fraserburgh. Upon an old cas-
tle, the property of Lord Saltoun, a light-
house was erected in December 1787, in lat.
57° 42', and long. 2° 19' west of London;
Cairnbulg from the light-house bearing by com-
pass south-east, distant two miles ; and Troup-
head west north-west, distant nine miles. The
lantern is 120 feet above the level of the sea
at high water, and is lighted from the going
away of daylight till its return.
KINNEFF, a parish in the county of Kin-
cardine, lying on the sea-coast south from Dun-
notar, and bounded by Arbuthnot on the «vest,
and Bervie on the south. From the water of
Bervie, which is the southern boundary for a
short distance, to the northern extremity the
length is about five miles, and the whole su-
perficies measures 6408 acres, of which 4023
are in cultivation, 1 184 are capable of improve-
ment, 17 in plantations, and 1184 hills and
wastes. By computation, the parish lately
possessed 1194 head of cattle, about 150 horses,
202 sheep, and 30 swine, while the real rental
was L.3406. The coast is here, as in Dun-
notar parish, exceedingly bold and rocky. The
parish, which incorporates the abrogated parish
of Caterline, has probably taken its name from
a castle, the ruins of which are still to be seen
upon the margin of the sea, not above a hun-
dred yards distant from the church. There is
a vulgar tradition of this having been the resi-
dence of one of the Scottish monarchs named
Kenneth. — Population in 1821, 1036.
KINNELL, a parish in Forfarshire, lying
with its south side to the Lunan water, and
separated from the sea by the parish of Lunan ;
bounded by Fernell on the north, and Guthrie
and part of Kirkden on the west, extending
above four miles in length by three in breadth.
Unless in one quarter on the Lunan water,
which is hilly, the surface is generally flat and
under a good state of cultivation. Plantations
are now also in a thriving condition. The
church stands on the left bank of the Lunan
water, at the distance of six miles from Ar-
broath — Population in 1821, 732.
KINNEL or KINEL, a rivulet in Dum-
fries-shire, rising in the parish of Kirbpatrick-
juxta, and running in a south easterly direction,
it receives the Ae at Esby, and falls into the
Annan at Broomhill, in the parish of Loch-
maben.
KINNELL AR. a small parish in Aberdeen-
shire, lying with its north end to the river Don,
near which it is intersected by the Inverury
Canal, bounded on the west by Kintore, on
the south by Skene, and on the east by Dyce
and Newhills. It extends about four miles
from the Don, but unless at a wide part on tho
south, is not more than a mile and a- half broad.
The lands are generally enclosed and well cul-
tivated.— Population in 1821, 996.
KINNESSWOOD, a small sequestered
and ancient village in the parish of Portmoak,
Kinross-shire, situated on the north-east shore
of Loch Leven, at the distance of five miles
652
KINROSS-SHIRE.
east from Kinross, and one west from the vil-
lage of Scotland-well. The situation of the
village is somewhat romantic and pleasing,
being beneath the shadow of the western ter-
mination of the Lomond hills, and having a
beautiful prospect in front, of the lake and its
islands. Though otherwise obscure, it derives
a slight fame from having been the birth-place
of Michael Bruce, the Scottish poet, and au-
thor of many much-admired and often-printed
pieces. The house in which he first saw
the light — a thatched one of two storeys — is
pointed out on the left side of a wynd proceed-
ing up from the main street towards the hills.
There is a garden behind, which once contain-
ed a bower formed by the youth's own hands,
for purposes of study and poetical recreation.
After a very brief, but pure and blameless ex-
istence, he died of consumption, and was buried
in the church- yard of Scotland-well, (Port-
moak,) where there is an obelisk to his me-
mory.
KINNETTLES, a parish at the centre of
Forfarshire, nearly of a square form, extend-
ing two miles and a-half in length by two in
breadth, bounded by the parish of Glammis on
the west and north, Forfar on the east, and
Inverarity on the south. The district is arable,
and among the most beautiful and productive
in the shire. — Population in 1821, 566.
KINNOUL, a parish in Perthshire, lying
with its western extremity to the Tay, oppo-
site Perth, and extending from thence in a
most irregular manner for three or four miles,
by a general breadth of one mile. Besides
this larger portion, there are two detached parts
— one to the north between St. Martin's pa-
rish and Kilspindie, and one on the Tay,
encompassed by the parish of Kinfauns and
St. Madoes. The surface of this parish is
hilly, but romantic, and exceedingly beauti-
ful, being clothed to a great extent with
fine plantations, and having many gentlemen's
seats. The hill of Kinnoul, rising from the
Tay opposite, and within view of the town
of Perth, is one of the very finest objects
of the kind in Britain. It is crowned and
highly embellished with wood, and has a va-
riety of villas environed in shrubberies and
gardens of the most exuberant description, the
whole only paralleled in beauty and salubrity
of situation by Richmond Hill. At the east
end of the bridge which crosses the Tay from
Perth, a large suburb or distinct town has
arisen under the name of Kinnoul or Bridge-
end, which is a burgh of barony under the Earl
of Kinnoul, and is entitled to hold a weekly
market and four annual fairs. The houses,
which are substantial and handsomely built,
chiefly line the public roads for a short distance.
About the year 1767, a nursery was begun in
this parish, opposite Perth, by Mr. James
Dickson of Hassendean-burn, near Hawick, and
it has continued ever since as a very extensive
and useful establishment of the kind to this
part of Scotland. The ancient church of the
parish was long a rectory in the proprietary of
the monastery of Cambuskenneth, and was de-
dicated to rather a rare saint, Constantine, who
was a king of Scots in the tenth century, and
who became a Monk among the Culdees of
St. Andrews. The modern church of Kin-
noul is a neat edifice built on a bank over-
hanging the Tay, south from the village.
About a quarter of a mile south from the
church once stood the old Castle of Kinnoul.
This place has given the title of Earl to a
branch of the family of Hay of Errol, the first
of the title being ennobled in 1627, as Lord
Hay of Kinfauns, and elevated to be Earl of
Kinnoul, Viscount Dupplin, in 1633. — Popu-
lation of the parish and village in 1821, 2674.
KIN ORE, a parish in Aberdeenshire, now
incorporated with the parish of Huntly.
KINROSS-SHIRE, a small inland coun-
ty, situated at the western extremity of the
county of Fife, from which it was disjoined in
the year 1426, and encompassed on its west
and north sides by Perthshire, with Fife on its
southern quarter. Its name is significant of
its local situation, importing the " head of the
peninsula." As now constituted, it measures
from east to west, that is, from Auchmuir
bridge at the bottom of the carse of Loch
Leven to Fossaway kirk, eleven miles and a
quarter in length ; and from Keltybridge, nearly
due north to Damhead, nine miles and three
quarters. The general figure of the county is
somewhat circular, although the line of its
boundary is very irregular, and its total super-
ficies amounts to seventy-eight square miles,
or about 39,702 Scots acres. The bounda-
ries or outskirts of the county are generally
hilly, and in point of fact the shire may be de-
scribed as an open vale, or plain, environed in
uplands and hills. The Ochil hills, which
separate the district from Strathearn, are the
northern boundary, the Lomond hills are the
KINROSS-SHIRE.
653
eastern, Benarty hill the south-eastern, and
Cleish hills the south and south-western. These
hills are generally pastoral, and adapted for
the rearing of cattle, but they are also suited in
many places to cultivation, and exhibit many
pleasing and productive arable fields. The origi-
nal condition of this minute territory seems to
have resembled that of the contiguous shire of
Fife, having been of a moory, mossy nature,
and most probably once bearing a forest of
trees, the fit residence of wild boars and other
animals usually found in savage countries. Up
1o a comparatively recent epoch, the lands of
Kinross-shire were bleak and unreclaimed, a
circumstance partly attributable to a certain
local characteristic worth mentioning. The
district has the remarkable peculiarity in its
proprietary of being very much divided into
farms, each owned in feu by its tenant,
wherefore there are more resident lairds in
proportion in this part of the country than
are to be found anywhere else, establishing
a resemblance betwixt the proprietary of this
county and that of Fife. The farms, it
appears, were feued about the commence-
ment of the eighteenth century from the
Douse of Kinross, to the tenants then in pos-
session, whose descendants inherit the proper-
ties, paying for them an exceedingly trifling
duty or quit rent. The marches of the vari-
ous farms not having been well defined, and
being distracted by the practice of run-rig,
it was long before the county manifested very
active signs of improvement. Within the re-
collection of persons of middle life, few dis-
tricts were worse cultivated or less profitable
than Kinross-shire ; but the rack-rent taxes
levied by Pitt, and other circumstances, among
which is included tke good example shown
by neighbours, ultimately induced a spirited
change, and now, from less to more, the agri-
culture, the mode of draining, enclosing, and
planting, can vie with those of Fife or most
other places. Draining on a great and effec-
tual scale has been instituted on the carse east
from Loch Leven and on its shore, there be-
ing in all directions in this quarter productive
arable fields, where, only a few years ago, there
was nothing but desolate moors and mosses.
The county possesses no running waters except
a few small rivulets which are chiefly tributary
to Loch Leven. This beautiful and large ex-
panse of water, which is sufficiently noticed
in its proper place, lies at the east end of the
wide vale of the shire, and is emptied by a
small river of the same name, which pursues an
easterly course through Fife. By its recent
partial drainage a considerable addition of land
has been acquired, but generally of a poor qua-
lity. The river Leven, from its source to
Auchmuir bridge above alluded to, is the
boundary with the shire of Fife ; Kinross-shire
being on the north bank. Besides Loch Le-
ven, there are a few small lakes or tarns on the
hills above Cleish. The district is now in
many places well sheltered by plantations.
The mineralogy of the shire is a subject of lit-
tle importance. Whinstone is found in a va •
riety of situations ; and sandstone of the best
quality abounds. Limestone likewise has been
discovered in abundance, and wrought. There
are no coal- works established in the county ;
but coal is found in great quantities in the
neighbourhood. The shire is now provided
with good roads. The county comprises but
four complete parochial divisions; and possesses
only one town, namely, Kinross, with a large
populous village, in its neighbourhood, called
Mil-na-thort, vulgarly Mills-o'-forth. The
county is joined with that of Clackmannan
under one sheriff-depute ; but there is a resi-
dent sheriff- substitute at Kinross. The real
rental of the shire in 1811 was for lands
L.22,752, houses L.6870.— Population in
1821, males 3660, females 4102, total 7762.
KINROSS, a parish in the above county,
extending about three and a half miles in length
from north to south, and nearly the same at
its greatest breadth ; bounded by Loch Leven
on the east, on the north by Orwell, on the
south by Cleish, and on the west by Fossaway
and Tulliebole. Stretching westward from the
margin of Loch Leven, the parish consists of a
large portion of the flat or undulating vale of
Kinross, and though originally moorish and
unproductive, is now improved and well en-
closed, and yields tolerably good crops. There
are three small rivers in the district, namely,
the Gairney on the south boundary, the South
Queich below the town, and North Queich on
the north boundary, all of which discharge
themselves into Loch Leven, and are stored
with srnail trout. The small island in Loch
Leven on which stands the ruined castle, be-
longs to the parish.
Kinross, the capital of the above county
and parish, and a town of considerable antiqui-
ty, occupies a pleasant situation at the foot of
654
KINROSS.
the open vale to which it has given its name,
on the north-western shore of Loch Leven, at
the distance of 27 miles from Edinburgh, 17
from Perth, and 19 from Cupar. Formerly
the town consisted of a series of tortuous lanes
of an antique appearance, bordering on the
above beautiful lake, but in the present day
there is a tolerably well built, though not very
straight main street, bounding these lanes on
their northern quarter, and lining the chief
road to the north, which thus passes through
the town. Originally, the locality was dig-
nified by a castle of great strength, situ-
ated on a promontory jutting into the lake,
and of which the town was a dependance.
This ancient stronghold, long the residence
»f the Earls of Morton, was removed upwards
of a century ago, and the promontory is now
occupied by Kinross House, an elegant struc-
ture, built and inhabited by Sir William
Bruce of Kinross, the architect of the modern
part of Holyroodhouse, and many other man-
sions of the reign of Charles II. The envi-
rons of Kinross are much indebted for their
beauty to the pleasure-grounds and exuberant
plantations around this edifice, which stands
near the northern entrance to the town, and
opposite the island and castle of Queen Mary ;
for a description of which important objects in
connexion with Kinross, we refer to the article
Leven (Loch). Kinross has, in recent
times, undergone many extensive improve-
ments, in the building of handsome new
houses on the main street, and otherwise, and
now possesses a large splendid inn at the
northern extremity of the town, which for ap-
pearance and accommodation is perhaps not
surpassed in Scotland. It is tastefully built on
the plan of the old English manor-houses, and
has an extensive suit of stables. There are
other good inns in the town. The parish-
church, which stands near the centre of the
town, is a plain edifice, with an ordinary
steeple. Besides this place of worship, there
are two meeting-houses of the United Seces-
sion church. As the capital of the county,
the courts of the sheriff sit in Kinross, and
justice of peace courts are likewise held at
stated periods. The place is undistinguished
by manufactories, and the chief trade of the
working classes is the weaving of linen and
cotton goods. The adjacent lake abounds in
fish ; but being rented for the Edinburgh mar-
ket, the town enjoys little benefit from it.
Kinross is entitled to hold four fairs annually.
A branch of the British Linen Company's
Bank is of considerable use to the town and
its vicinity. — Population of the parish and
town in 1821, 2563.
KINTAIL, a parish at the south-west
corner of Ross-shire, so named from the words
Cean-dha-haal, the " head of the two salt water
lakes." The large indentation of the sea, op-
posite the south-eastern corner of Skye, called
Loch Alsh, divides itself into two branches,
the most northerly of which is called Loch
Long, and the most southerly Loch Duich.
These two arms of the sea enclose the parish
of Kintail, the church of which is situated at a
point at the head of Loch Duich. Glenshiel lies
on the south, Lochalsh parish on the north, and
the parish of Kintail measures between the
two, thirteen miles in length by six in breadth.
The parish is mountainous, wild, and pastoral,
and in popular language is divided into the
three districts of Croe, Glenelchaig, and Glas-
leter. There are two rivers, the Loigh and
the Croe, which rise in small rivulets in the
mountains ; the former runs into Loch Long,
and the latter into Loch Duich. The cascade
of Glomach lies in the heights of Glenelchaig,
far from public view. The fall of water is
very considerable, and rendered awful by the
darkness of the surrounding hills and woods.
Kintail is, in its inland quarter, surrounded
with high hills ; the most eminent is Tulloch-
ard, which commands a view of many of the
Hebrides. This mountain claims particular
attention, on account of the veneration in
which it was held in ancient times. Like the
temple of Janus at Rome, it indicated peace
or war : when warfare commenced, a burning
fire on the highest ridge was the signal ; and
all the tenants of Seaforth appeared in arms
next morning at the Castle of Donan, the usu-
al place of rendezvous. This burning mount
the family of Seaforth bear for their crest ;
and those who relish the music of the bag-
pipe, show no little regard to the rune of Tul-
loch-ard, or Seaforth's gathering. The castle
of Donan, just mentioned, was built in the
reign of Alexander III., to resist the depreda-
tions of the Danes. It commanded a very ex-
tensive prospect, being situated in the western
extremity of the parish, at the parting of Loch
Long from Loch Duich, where there is now a
ferry. It consisted of a tower and rampart,
and at full sea was surrounded by water. It
K I P P E N.
655
was demolished in the year 1719, after the
battle of Glenshiel, by a ship of war, and
some of the balls employed in battering it
down are still found in the mossy ground in its
vicinity. The author of the Statistical Ac-
count informs us, that, in his day, (1793) an
old inhabitant of the parish remembered of
having seen the Kintail men under arms,
dancing on the leaden roof of Castle Donan,
just as they were setting out for Sheriff- Muir,
where this resolute band were cut in pieces.
By the same authority we learn that before the
parish manse is a place called Downan Diar-
mod, being the remains of an ancient fort, near
which is shown the tomb of that Fingtdian
hero, composed of large rough stones. Kin-
tail was long known as the country of the
MacRaes, a name importing " the sons of
good fortune," who, it is said, emigrated thither
from the braes of Aird, on the Lovat estate.
—Population in 1821, 1027.
KINTORE, a parish in Aberdeenshire,
lying on the right side of the Don, opposite
Keithhall and Fintray, bounded on the north
by Inverury, from which it is separated
by the Don, on the west by Kemnay, and
on the south by Skene and Kinnellar. The
surface rises gradually from the neighbour-
hood of the river to the western quarter of
the parish, which extends six miles in length
by about three in breadth at the middle.
The lower district is arable, and produces to-
lerably good crops. There are also now some
plantations. The road and Inverury canal
from Aberdeen pass through the parish. An-
ciently this part of the country was covered
with a forest, a part of which, with a castle,
were given, by Robert Bruce, to Robert de
Keith, Marischal of Scotland, after the battle
of Bannockburn, and the district still remains
in the hands of his descendants, the family of
Kintore ; having been bestowed, in the seven-
teenth century by the Earl Marischal, on his
son, Sir John Keith, who was afterwards
(1677) created Earl of Kintore, by Charles II.
on account of his instrumentality in preserving
the regalia of the kingdom during the troubles
of the civil wars.
Kintore, the capital of the above parish,
and a royal burgh, is situated on the public
road near the Don, at the distance of twelve
miles north-west of the county town, and
three south-east of Inverury. We are inform-
ed by the author of the Statistical Account,
and his followers, that Kintore was created a"
royal burgh about the beginning of the ninth
century, — that is to say, nearly three hundred
years before burgal privileges of that class
were known in Scotland. And it can only
now be conjectured that the town most proba-
bly was elevated to be a royal burgh about
the same period as Aberdeen, namely, the
twelfth century. The only old charter it pos-
sesses is one of James V., confirming some of
an ancient date. It is governed by a provost,
two bailies, a dean of guild, and treasurer, as-
sisted by a council of eight other burgesses ;
and unites with Banff, Cullen, Elgin, and
Inverury in electing a member of parliament.
The set of the burgh not requiring any periodi-
cal change in the officials, the head of the
Kintore family has been provost for about a
hundred and fifty years. By a recent exami-
nation before the House of Lords, it appears,
that this royal burgh was in the most impover-
ished condition of almost any town in Scotland.
The town is of small size, with the parish
church standing beside it. The Inverury
canal passes it on the west — Population of
the burgh in 1821, about 350, including the
parish 1053.
KINTYRE.— See Cantirk.
KIPPEN, a parish, of which a third part
belongs to Perthshire, and the remainder to
Stirlingshire, lying on the right bank of the
Forth, bounded by Gargunnock on the east,
Balfron on the south, and Drymen on the
west. The Forth separates it on the north
from Kilmadock, Kincardine, and Port-Men-
teith. In extent it measures nearly eight
miles in length, by from two to four in
breadth. The parish is divided into level
carse ground and upland ; the former, which
lies on the Forth, is of unequal breadth, and
forms a part of that extensive plain which
reaches from Gartmore on both sides of the
river, as far eastward as Borrowstounness.
Much of the land is of a mossy nature. From
some of the higher grounds, an ample and va-
riegated prospect presents itself to the eye of
the spectator. At the head of the strath
stands the house of Gartmore, commanding a
view of the whole plain below, which through-
out is a rich and beautiful valley, exhibiting
an enclosed and well cultivated country, em-
bellished with numberless farms and gentle-
men's seats. Stirling Castle, and the roman-
tic woody eminences adjacent, are seen on the
650
IRKALDY.
east, like islands emerging out of the level
carse land. In former times this district,
from lying near the borders of the Highlands,
was occasionally subjected to the predatory
incursions of the nearest clans. At one time
there were a number of places of strength in
the district. In the western division of the
parish stands the village of Bucklyvie, and in
the eastern part, on the public road, at the
distance of 9| miles west from Stirling, is si-
tuated the village of Kippen, which is entitled
to hold several annual fairs, and which derives
no small distinction from having been for fifty
years the seat of whisky distillation to a con-
siderable extent. The manufacture of this
article here was primarily encouraged by an old
distillery act of parliament, which permitted
the distillation on a very free scale within the
Highland line, and as Kippen was, till a new
act in 1793, reckoned within this imaginary
boundary, it enjoyed its trade in whisky on fa-
vourable terms. — Population of the parish
and villages in 1821, 2029.
KIRBISTER, a small lake in the parish
of Orphir, Orkney.
KIRKALDY, or KIRKCALDY, a
parish in the county of Fife, bounded on
the south by the Firth of Forth, on the
west by the parish of Abbotshall, and by
Dysart on all the remaining sides. In the
southern extremity of this parish lies the
town of Kirkaldy, from which it takes its
name, and the landward part is merely a small
stripe of territory stretching to the north for
about two miles, and generally less than a mile
in breadth. The beautiful estate of Dunni-
keir' forms the principal part of the northern
division of the parish. The parish of Abbots-
hall, with the exception of three farms that
belonged to Kinghorn, anciently formed part
of Kirkaldy parish, but was separated in 1649,
on account of the anxiety prevalent at that time
to increase the facilities of attending public
worship. The church of the parish of Kirk-
aldy is situated at the town. In this parish
were born several eminent individuals, though
of very different estimations in life — namely,
Michael Scott, the celebrated philosopher
of the thirteenth century, [he first saw the
light at Balweary, in that part of the parish
now separated, under the name of Abbotshall] ;
Oswald of Dunnikeir, the well known patriot
and statesman ; and Dr. Adam Smith, author
of the Wealth of Nations.
Kirkaldy, a populous thriving sea- port
town, a royal burgh, and seat of a presbytery,
in the above parish, in the county of Fife, oc-
cupying a somewhat incommodious situation
between the shore of the Firth of Forth and
the base of a range of rising grounds on the
north, at the distance of three miles north from
Kinghorn, two west from Dysart, thirty-one
south-west from Dundee, and thirteen from
Edinburgh, by way of Pettycur and Kinghorn.
Besides stretching through the whole breadth of
the parish of Kirkaldy, it also crosses through
Abbotshall, and transgresses a little upon the
parish of Kinghorn. Though a town of con-
siderable antiquity, like most of those in Fife
on the shores of the Forth, and at an early pe-
riod enjoying a considerable trade, it is only in
recent times that it has emerged from an obscure
history, and, partly on the ruin of other places,
has taken an honourable station at the head
of all the towns in this rich and influential
county. From the narrow dimensions of the
ground on which Kirkaldy is situated, the in-
habitants have been from the first necessitated
to erect their habitations in a continuous line
along the shore, though unluckily without
much regard to the regularity of the buildings,
and having thence stretched to a most dispro-
portionate length, the place from an early
period, has been styled " the lang town o'
Kirka'dy" in familiar allusion to its appearance.
From being a long straggling town of a single
ill-arranged street, houses were in time planted
on the ascent behind or near the shore in front,
and in the present day, it comprises several
well-built cross streets and a variety of detach-
ed edifices, the residence of the more wealthy
classes. The town has as yet, however,
reached only a short way up the acclivity on
its northern side, and when viewed from the
sea it appears environed by finely enclosed
productive fields, with the beautiful grounds
and conspicuous tower of Raith and the verdant
plantations surrounding the house of Dunnikeir
crowning the heights. Long as the town is,
it has bean in appearance drawn out to much
greater extent by the close proximity of the
village of Path-head on the east, which al-
most connects it with Dysart. Kirkaldy
is supposed to take its name from the Cul-
dees (the Keldei, as they are often termed
in old charters), of whom it is said to have
been a cell. The first notice of it occurs
in 1334, when it was mortified by David II.
KIRKALDY.
657
to the abbots of Dunfermline successively,
and thus became a burgb of regality. It con-
tinued in the possession of these dignitaries
till 1450, when the commendator and convent,
by indentures made with the bailies and com-
munity of Kirkaldy, disponed to them and
their successors for ever the burgh and har-
bour, burgh acres, the small customs, common
pasture in the moor, &c. We are informed
by the writer of the Statistical Account, that
it was soon after erected into a royal burgh,
with the customary privileges ; and these were
specifically ratified by a charter of confirma-
tion granted by Charles I. in 1644 ; when the
burgh, for good and]gratuitous service done by it,
was erected de novo into a free royal burgh and
free port, with new and large immunities. It
is probable that these privileges, instead of be-
ing granted for good and gratuitous service,
were given as a means of preventing the good
burghers from continuing that hostility which
they, in common with all the other burgh com-
munities of Fife, had shown to his Majesty
during the unhappy contest he carried on with
a party of his people. Among the privileges
enumerated in the new charter, were powers
given to the bailies, councillors, and communi-
ty of electing and constituting annual magi-
strates for the administration of justice and
the government of the burgb, of uplifting cus-
toms and applying them to the public good ;
of holding courts; of seizing, incarcerating,
and punishing delinquents ; with which were
conjoined various other privileges expressed in
the barbarous language of the early feudal
times, when they first became customary —
such as herezelds, bludewits, merchetae mu-
lierum, fork, foss, sok, sak, tholl, thame, wraik,
vat, weth, wair, venyson, infangthief, out-
fangthief, pit and gallows, &c. Kirkaldy ap-
pears to have prospered in common with the
other busy towns along the coast of Fife.
Tradition relates that at the time when Charles
I. erected it anew into a royal burgh, it had a
hundred sail of ships belonging to it ; which
is not improbable, as we learn from authentic
documents that the port lost ninety-four vessels
by the accidents of the troubled times between
1644 and 1660. A proof of its prosperity at
even an earlier age is found in the circum-
stance that in 1622, when the General As-
sembly of the Protestant churches of France
deputed Boesnage to the king of Great Britain,
to solicit aid to enable them to resist the op-
pression of Louis XIII., the town and parish of
Kirkaldy contributed, according to the good-
will and permission of the king, a pecuniary aid
of 1030 merks ; for which Boesnage's receipt
is engrossed in the parish records. So many
men did Kirkaldy send to resist the Marquis
of Montrose at Kilsyth in 1645, that the
slaughter which distinguished that defeat is
said to have made two hundred widows in this
town alone. At the sack of Dundee in 1651,
by General Monk, the good presbyterians of
Kirkaldy lost goods to the amount of about
L.500, which they had deposited there for
safety. Yet this is nothing to the value of
the ships lost before the Restoration — which
amounted to L.53,791 sterling. The town
was at this time the seventh town in Scotland,
only Edinburgh, Dundee, Aberdeen, Glasgow,
Perth, and St. Andrews ranking above it ;
and latterly this last falling below it, made it
the sixth. For several years before and after
1650, the monthly assessments laid on it, for
the maintenance of the troops, exceeded L.400
at an average. It contributed as 1 in 40 of
the whole supplies levied from the burghs of
Scotland. This, however, was the golden age
of the early history of Kirkaldy. One of sil-
ver — we might almost say of coppt.^ --soon
ensued. The town seems to have become at
length much reduced in wealth and the means
of carrying on its trade, by the losses which it
sustained in the course of the civil war. In 1 673,
the number of ships belonging to it had fallen to
twenty-five. And, in 1682, its distress was so
great that an application was made to the con-
vention of burghs to consider its poverty, and to
take methods for easing it as to its public burdens.
" But the burgh," says the writer of the Sta-
tistical Account, " having fallen under the dis-
pleasure of the court, on account of the oppo-
sition given by its representative to the arbi-
trary measures then carried on, the inhabitants
were not only denied relief, but farther bur-
dened with an addition of 2000 merks to their
annual assessment. The application to the
convocation was, however, renewed in 1687,
when a visitation of the burgh was ordered.
A committee appointed for that purpose met
at Kirkaldy the following year; and on the
evidence of the books and declarations both of
the magistrates of the burgh and the officers of
the customs, reported to the Convention, ' that
the customs payable to his Majesty were not
half of what they had been some years before :
4p
058
KIRKALDY.
that tin's was occasioned by the death of many
substantial merchants and shippers, and loss of
ships and decay of trade : that many of the in-
habitants, some of whom were magistrates of
the burgh, had fled from and deserted the same :
that so great was the poverty of the inhabitants,
that all the taxations imposed on the town
could do no more than pay the eight months
cess payable to the king yearly, and that with
difficulty. Before the effect of this represent-
ation could be known, the Revolution took
place ; an event highly grateful to the Scots in
general, and particularly to the whigs of Fife.
The inhabitants of Kirkaldy entering warmly
into the spirit of it, and anxious to distinguish
themselves in the support of it, found means
to apprehend the Earl of Perth, who was Lord
Chancellor, and had managed the affairs of
Scotland under James, and who, knowing that
he was generally obnoxious as one of the in-
struments of the late king, withdrew himself
as soon as the public mind had declared in fa-
vour of the Prince of Orange. After detain-
ing that nobleman five days and nights in pri-
son, under a constant guard of 300 men, they
sent him under a convoy of three boats manned
with 200 hands to Alloa, where they delivered
him on receipt into the hands of the Earl of
Mar. The guard of 300 men they found it
necessary to keep up for four months, on re-
ceiving information that a force was com-
ing down from the Highlands to burn the
town, in revenge for Perth's apprehension.
These facts, and a particular account of their
losses, having been stated in a petition to
King William in 1689, they obtained an abate-
ment of L.1000 Scots of their annual assess-
ments." The prosperity of the town, which
revived a little after this event, was soon again
depressed in consequence of the Union, the
effect of which was at first very different from
what it has been since. " Taxes, which by the
treaty of Union, were laid on many of the ne-
cessaries of life, the duties and customs which
were imposed on various articles of merchan-
dise, and the numerous restrictions with which
the English contrived, in the narrow spirit of
commercial monopoly, to fetter the trade of
Scotland in general, were quickly and severely
felt over the whole of this part of the United
Kingdom. Commerce everywhere declined ;
in spite of the attempts which were made to sup-
port it by the wretched resource of smuggling.
It suffered particularly in the towns on the
28.
Firth of Forth ; many of which were quickly
reduced to distress, and all of them languished.
This town was involved in the common fate.
Its shipping, on which it had till then entirely
depended, fell rapidly into decay ; and the se-
veral wars which followed each other for more
than half a century, having continued the ef-
fect which the disadvantageous terms of the
Union had begun, the trade of this place was
at length so much reduced, that, in 1760, it
employed no more than one coaster of fifty
tons, and two ferry-boats each of thirty. On
the return, however, of peace in 1763, the
shipping immediately revived. By the year
1 772, it had increased to eleven vessels carry-
ing 515 tons and forty-nine men ; and though
its progress was retarded by the war with Ame-
rica, it amounted at the close of that contest
to twelve vessels, carrying 750 tons and fifty-
nine men." The increase still continuing, the
number of vessels in 1792, was twenty- six,
carrying 3700 tons register, or about 5000 dead
weight, and employing 225 men, being, when
clear to sail, worth L. 30,000. From this pe-
riod, the town has gradually increased in im-
portance as a port and manufacturing town, as
may be learned from the following particulars,
which are all referable to its present state,
(July 1831.) The trade of Kirkaldy bears
an intimate resemblance to that of Dundee,
consisting almost exclusively in the spinning of
flax, and the weaving of coarse linen goods for
home and foreign consumption. The town
now possesses ten distinct establishments for
the spinning and preparation of flax, in all of
which steam-power is employed. There is
one large establishment for weaving, in which
steam is also the agent of movement. The
rest of the flax prepared here is woven by the
hand, and engages a great number of individu-
als. The fabrics prepared and woven, are
chiefly ticks, dowlas, checks, and sail-cloth.
There are four bleachfields connected with the
town for the whitening of the yarns. Kirkaldy
has likewise a rope-work. In the town and en-
virons, there are two breweries and a distillery,
likewise two iron foundries, where the machine-
ry employed in the spinning-mills is manufactur-
ed. Salt was once made to a considerable ex-
tent, but it is now manufactured on a very small
scale. Besides these chief public works, there
are many minor establishments incidental to a
populous sea-port town. Within these few
years the style of shop -keeping has been great-
KIRKALDY.
659
ly altered and improved, there being now many
elegant shops, with extensive stocks of fashion-
able and other kinds of goods, which formerly
used to be found only in cities such as Edin-
burgh. Kirkaldy is the seat of a customhouse,
having a control over a line of coast extending
from Aberdour on the west to St. Andrews
on the east, in which district are included the
creeks of Aberdour, Kinghorn, Dysart, West
and East Wemyss Leven, Largo, Elie, Pit-
tenweem, West and East Anstruther, Crail,
and St. Andrews. Anstruther is constituted a
deputy port to Kirkaldy, with a supervision
over those places to the east of it. By the
politeness of the gentlemen connected with the
customhouse establishment of Kirkaldy, we
have been furnished with a list of the shipping
belonging to the port and its creeks, which is
highly illustrative ofthe character of these places.
It appears that on the 1st of January 1831, the
whole owned 191 vessels, having a burden of
14,596 tons, and 1289 seamen. Out of this,
Kirkaldy and its creeks, as far as Largo, had
95 vessels, with 10,610 tons, and 831 seamen.
The circumstance of such a number of vessels
belonging to the small towns on the coast of
Fife is very significant of the mode in which
spare capital is employed in this ancient trad-
ing district. We find that here many a one
who realizes two or three hundred pounds in
trade, lays the sum out — frequently staking his
all, or next to it — in the purchase of a brig or
sehooner, to be engaged in foreign or coasting
traffic. There are even instances of persons
with more humble means clubbing their earn-
ings to enter into speculations of this kind. In
no other part of Scotland, indeed, that we know
of, is there exactly the same species of rage for
being ship-owners ; and, on the opposite shores
of the Lothians, such a desire is very faintly
expressed. It will, of course, be understood,
that the above number of vessels is by no
means allied to the trade of the ports to which
they belong, (though such may happen to be
the case,) the ships being employed in the ge-
neral carrying trade of the country. Among
those vessels belonging to Kirkaldy are reckon-
ed six which are engaged in whale-fishing, a
trade in which the port has been exceedingly
successful. A substantially constructed series
of edifices for the preparation of oil, in con-
nexion with the Greenland trade, was some time
ago erected on the shore below Pathhead, near
Ravenscraig castle, but the work having been
interdicted by the Earl of Roslin till a recent
period, it is not as yet in operation. The
trade of the port has been considerably benefit-
ed by the institution of a company having smacks
sailing to and from London direct. At present
there are two vessels engaged in this traffic,
carrying goods and passengers, by which the
sometimes tedious and expensive process of
sending goods by Leith is avoided. Kirk-
aldy is the only port in Fife having these
smacks, and the circumstance argues a great
deal for the enterprise and affluence of the in-
habitants. To the regular sailing to and fro
of steam-vessels in communication with New-
haven, and which go and come at least three
times a-day, much of the comfort and prospe-
rity of the port is also owing. The harbour of
Kirkaldy is situated at the east end of the
town, and though of large dimensions, with a
good stone pier at the east and west sides,
it has the misfortune of being dry at low
water ; and at such times of the tide the pas-
sengers of steam- vessels have to embark by
means of small boats. To obviate, as far as
possible, so disagreeable an inconveniency, along
moveable pier, or narrow scaffold, on wheels,
has been erected, which bears the passengers
from the sands to the boats. We would strongly
recommend the use of a convenience of this
kind to the other parts on the coast having no
low water piers, where passengers have often
to be carried out of and into the boats on the
backs of the sailors. It is the custom of the
different inn-keepers of Kirkaldy to send
chaises to the water's edge, in order to convey
gratuitously the strangers who may land to their
respective hotels. The increase of the spin-
ning trade has not been more remarkable in
Kirkaldy within these few years than the
steady improvement of the trade in corn, in
which it now surpasses any other market in
Fife. A weekly grain market is held on Sa-
turday, which collects the produce ofthe farmers
from a very extensive district in the counties of
Fife and Kinross, and commands the attend-
ance of corn factors from Edinburgh, Leith, and
other places on the southern shores of the firth.
Purchasers having here frequently the advan-
tage of seeing their grain shipped for Leith,
Glasgow — (by way of the Forth and Clyde
canal) — or other ports, before they leave the
market, there is held out a great inducement
to attendance on the part of the dealers, who
have further the benefit of the numerous steam-
660
K I R K A L D Y.
vessels ©rt the firth for transporting themselves,
with perfect certainty as to time, from side to
side, at a moderate expense.* A prodigious
revolution has been effected within the last
forty years in marketing at Kirkaldy, by the
institution of day instead of candle-light mar-
kets, tne latter being once common, and held
so early in the mornings, that during the win-
ter all the articles were bought and sold before
sunrise. This ridiculous practice has been
long since abrogated. By a very recent ar-
rangement, there are in future to be three cat-
tle markets in the year, held respectively on
the third Friday of February, the third Friday
of July, and the third Friday of October.
The first market, according to this programme,
was held in July 1831. As illustrative of the
flourishing state of the Saturday's stock mar-
ket, it may be mentioned, that during the first
year it was held, there were 8669 quarters of
wheat brought for sale ; and that in the last or
third year, recently closed, there were 16,393
quarters. The trade of Kirkaldy and neigh-
bourhood is assisted by branches of the Bank
of Scotland, and the Commercial, National,
and Glasgow Banks. The gradual but
steady progress of trade in Kirkaldy, and
the general advance of the inhabitants in man-
ners and taste, have led to the improve-
ment of the town, both in its public and pri-
vate works. In 181 1 a bill was carried through
parliament for widening, paving, and lighting
the streets, and introducing a supply of water,
and from that period may be dated the begin-
ning of those extensive alterations for the im-
provement of the appearance of the place, which
have given Kirkaldy a lively and modern, in-
stead of an antiquated and gloomy aspect.
The chief alterations have been made from
about the middle of the town to its eastern ex-
tremity, there being now, within this division,
many handsome stone edifices, while the street
* Persons proceeding from the Edinburgh side of the
firth to Kirkaldy, may either go by the ferry boats
direct from Newhaven, or by those from Newhaven to
Kinghorn ; going from thence eastward by the coaches
which run through Fife. The fares charged at both
ferries are alike, being at present two shillings for the
best, and one shilling and sixpence for the second cabin,
which, though in one sense moderate, are at all times
complained of as being too high, considering that the
voyage to Kinghorn occupies but forty — and that to
Kirkaldy about seventy minutes. The ferries in this
quarter are mostly in the hands of certain trustees, and
it is seldom that there are not vexatious disputes among
parties concerned. Both on the Fife and Mid-Lothian
coasts there is the modt deplorable want of low water piers.
has been rendered liere and there more straight
by the removal of projecting old houses. The
greatest alteration has taken place near the
centre of the eastern half, the street being here
lined with lofty good stone houses, among which
are two or three excellent inns ; and, on the
south side of the thoroughfare, is a new edifice,
of large proportions, answering the various pur-
poses of a hall for district and burgh meetings,
and a jail. From the front of this erection
rises a neat spire, in which is a conspicuous
town clock. This substantial and elegant build-
ing, which was finished in 1829, superseded ar.
exceedingly old court-house and jail, which pro-
jected on the thoroughfare, and was long a nuis-
ance to the street. The improved condition
of Kirkaldy is particularly marked by the use
of side pavement on the main and chief cross
streets, and the lighting of the town and shops
with gas, the latter improvement being made
in 1830. The inhabitants support two public
reading rooms, and there is a mechanics' insti-
tution, which differs from other establishments
of the kind, inasmuch as it is little else than
an association for the support of a library cal-
culated for the instruction of the members.
The town has no academy beyond the scale of
a parochial school, which is a somewhat re-
markable circumstance. Recently, the com-
munity have had planted amongst them a cha-
rity school, on such a principle of extensive
philanthropy that it requires particular notice.
A wealthy citizen designed Robert Philp of
Edenshead, merchant in the town, died in
1828, bequeathing property, which, after liqui-
dating minor legacies, &c, may be estimated
at nearly L. 70,000. This large sum was re-
posed in the administration of certain general
and local trustees for the purpose of erecting
and sustaining four schools, namely one in
Kirkaldy, for 100 children, one in Path-
head or St. Clair-town for 150 children, one
in the Linktown of Abbotshall (the western
suburb of Kirkaldy), for 100 children, and one
in Kinghorn for fifty children : the pupils to
be of both sexes, and to be selected from among
the very poorest inhabitants of those pJaces,
from six to fifteen years of age, and the edu-
cation to consist of only the plainest elemen-
tary branches : thirty shillings to be allowed for
clothing per annum to each pupil. In virtue of
this munificent endowment, a school-house has
been built at Kirkaldy, and in the other places
they are in the course of erection, or about to be
KIRKCONNEL.
G61
commenced, while the proper number of
children have been for some time under the care
of teachers. The civic government of Kirk-
aldy consists of a provost, two bailies, a dean
of guild and treasurer ; the council in whole
consisting of twenty-one members, ten of whom
are mariners, eight merchants, and three crafts-
men ; eleven of whom form a quorum. On
account of the expense of different public im-
provements, the burgh is now in debt L.9800,
while the revenue annually drawn is about
L.2000. The town accounts are managed by
a chamberlain. Besides the established church,
which is conspicuously situated on the rising
ground above the town, Kirkaldy has the ad-
vantage of having the parish church of Abbots-
hall, situated at a short distance to the west of
the town church, on the same rising ground.
There are also two meeting-houses of the
United Associate Synod, one of Original
Seceders, one of the Original Burgher Sy-
nod, one of Independents, and one of Episco-
palians, In closing this account of Kirkaldy,
the present writers cannot take leave of the
subject without expressing it as their belief,
founded on what they consider an accurate ex-
amination of the town — of the spirited indus-
try of its intelligent inhabitants — of its local
situation — and of its rising character, that
at no distant day it will be found by topogra-
phers occupying an honourable and distinguish-
ed rank among what are styled the first-rate
Scottish towns. — Population of Kirkaldy and
the suburbs in its vicinity in 1821, 7000; —
population of the burgh and parish, excluding
suburbs not ecclesiastically belonging to them,
4452. It is only by the former of these com-
putations that a correct idea can be gained of
the population of the place.
KIRKBEAN, a parish in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, occupying the south-eastern
corner of that division of Galloway on the
Solway firth at the estuary of the Nith ; bound-
ed by Colvend on the west and Newabbey on
the north : on the east and south is the Sol-
way. It is under five miles in length from
north to south, by a breadth of about three and
a half miles. Its south-eastern corner or pro-
montory is called Southernes Point. From
some high hills on its western quarter the land
generally declines towards the shore in long
pleasing expanses, presenting to the eye a rich,
beautiful and extensive prospect, fields well
enclosed, and in a high state of cultivation, with
a variety of thriving plantations. The ground
is exceedingly low on the southern sea-shore,
and is here styled the Merse. There are three
villages of very small size in the parish — Kirk-
bean, Preston, and Southerness. The first of
these, which stands in the public road from
Dumfries, in the northern part of the parish,
about a mile from the sea, enjoys a small dis-
tinction from having been the birth-place of
John Paul, otherwise Paul Jones, who was
born here in 1745, and was the son of an honest
gardener in the place. The only antiquities
in the district are the utterly ruined castles of
Cavens and Weatks, both of which were the
property and occasionally the residence of the
Regent Morton. The huge and conspicuous
mountain called Criffel, stands partly within
this parish and partly within that of Newabbey.
—Population in 1821, 790.
KIRKBOST, an islet of the Hebrides,
lying on the west coast of North Uist.
KIRKCHRIST.— See Twynholm.
KIRKCOLM, a parish in Wigtonshire,
occupying the outer extremity of the peninsu-
la, bounded by the Irish channel on the west
and north, and Loch Ryan on the east. On
its inland boundary it has the parish of Les-
walt. In extent it measures almost a square
of five miles. The surface is undulating, and
is under a good process of tillage. The
church of Kirkcolm, which before the Re-
formation be'onged to the monks of Sweet-
heart Abbey, is pleasantly situated near the
shore of Loch Ryan, north of the bay called
the Wig. About two miles south from the
present kirk, on the side of Loch Ryan, there
was, in ancient times, a chapel called Kilmo-
rie, signifying the Chapel of the Virgin Mary.
This chapel was altogether ruinous upwards
of a century ago, but the Virgin's Well, in the
vicinity, still retained its celebrity, among the
country people, for miraculous properties, as
regarded the cure of sick persons. — Popula-
tion in 1821, 1821.
KIRKCONNEL, a parish in Dumfries-
shire, occupying the north-west corner of
Nithsdale, extending from west to east be-
tween ten and fourteen miles by a breadth of
seven and eight, boimded by Sanquhar on the
south and east, and on the west and north by
New- Cumnock. A large portion of the dis-
trict is the vale through which the Nith flows
from west to east, with minute vales on either
side, and throLw which tributary rivulets run to
662
KIRKCUDBRIGHT (STEWARTRY OF)
this beautiful river. From these low grounds
the land rises into a mountainous terrritory on
the northern and south-western confines. The
low lying lands are now under excellent cultiva-
tion, and the hills are devoted to the pasturing
of black cattle and sheep. The public road
from Sanquhar into Ayrshire pursues a west-
erly direction through the parish, on the left
bank of the Nith. On the entrance of the
road into the parish stands the village of
Whitehill ; and nearly three miles farther on
is the Kirktown of Kirkconnel. The ancient
parish church stood at a place called Old
Kirkconnel, about two miles to the north of
the modern edifice. The old church before
the Reformation belonged to the monks of
Holyrood. Tradition and record are equally
silent regarding who St. Connel or Conel was,
to whom this and several other churches in
Dumfries-shire were dedicated ; and we are
left to conjecture that he may have been St.
Conwal, a disciple of St. Kentigernor Mungo,
at Glasgow, and who flourished as early as
612 — Population in 1821, 1075.
KIRKCONNEL, a parish in Dumfries-
shire, now merged in that of Kirkpatrick- Flem-
ing. It is in this district in which is found the
scene of the impassioned and pathetic tale of
" Fair Helen of Kirkconnel Lee," which we
notice under the head Kirkpatrick- Fleming.
KIRKCOWAN or KIRKOWEN, a
parish in Wigtonshire, bounded by Ayrshire
on the north, Penningham on the east, Moch-
rum on the south, and Old Luce and New
Luce on the west; extending from north to
south fifteen miles, by a general breadth of
about five miles. ' The surface of this district
is various, consisting of moorland interspersed
with pieces of arable land. The parish is
bounded on its west side by the Tarf water,
which in the south intersects the district and
joins the Bladenoch, a larger stream which
similarly bounds the east side of the parish,
and which, after passing Wigton, falls into
Wigton Bay. The church of Kirkowen stands
on the Tarf near its junction with the Blade-
noch. A doubt prevails as to who St. Cowan
was, to whom the old church was dedicated.
Dempster, in his Menologium, claims him as an
Abbot and as a Scot, who belonged to the
western isles, and it is probable that he was
the same personage commemorated there under
the title of Keuin, in the parish of Kilvi-
ceuen — Population in 1821, 1283.
KIRKCUDBRIGHT, styled a stewartry,
but to all intents and purposes a sheriffdom or
shire, in the south of Scotland, being a portion
of the ancient district of Galloway, situated
betwixt Dumfries-shire on the east and north-
east, Ayrshire on the north and north-west,
Wigtonshire or Western Galloway on the
west, and the Solway Firth on the south.
Its boundaries are, on the east the Nith,
the Cairn Water, on the north-east, and the
water of Cree on the west. In extent it mea-
sures from south-east to north-west forty-four
miles, by a breadth of from twenty-one to
thirty-one miles. It contains a superficies of
855 square miles, or 547,200 statute acres.
The ancient history of this portion of Gallo-
way being included in the article Galloway,
it need not be here recapitulated ; and it may be
sufficient to state how it acquired the uncommon
title of a stewartry. It appears that during
the thirteenth century, this district formed part
of the county of Dumfries ; but during this
period there prevailed throughout Galloway a
violent struggle between the Scoto-Irish usages
of ancient times, and the municipal law of re-
cent introduction. The influence of the
Cumins, under the minority of Alexander III.
established here an extraordinary change, by
having had the address to erect regular justici-
aries. The restoration of the monarchy under
Robert Bruce altered the system which had
been thus instituted. By the forfeiture of the
possessions of the Baliols, the Cumins, and
their various vassals, the district became the
property of the crown, when it is understood
to have been first put under the authority of a
royal stewart. Owing to the weakness of
David II., and the audacity of Archibald
Douglas the Grim, the lordship of Galloway,
with the stewartiy of Kirkcudbright, fell into
the hands of that nobleman ; but on the for-
feiture of the Douglases, in 1455, these pos-
sessions once more became royal property. In
subsequent times, the office of Stewart, in the
appointment of the king, was one of much
honour, and was often the subject of contest.
For a considerable period after the establish-
ment of a separate stewartship, the district was
still in some measure esteemed to be politi-
cally attached to Dumfries-shire; such a connex-
ion, however, was totally abrogated before the
civil wars of Charles the First's reign. From
mere force of ancient usage, the appellation
of Stewart instead of sheriff, has, till the pre-
KIRKCUDBRIGHT. (STEWARTRY OF)
663
sent day, remained in constant use, although,
by the civil arrangements of modern times,
there is not the least difference in the two
offices. The stewartry of Kirkcudbright dif-
fers considerably from Dumfries shire in na-
tural appearance, not having any extensive
plain on the margin of the sea, and the whole
being hilly to the very shores of the Solway.
It only varies in the greater or less size of the
hills, which are everywhere intermixed with
valleys, forming the natural drains of this
hilly and ridgy district. The general as-
pect has been well described by Buchanan
in the laconic expression, tumescit collibus-
The most conspicuous mountain is Criffel
or Crawfell, situated near the Nith, and rising
to the height of 1831 feet above the level of the
sea. It is seen at a great distance both on the
Scottish and English side of the Solway Firth.
Many of the hills of this district are of a fer-
tile nature, and being of easy ascent, and not
of too great height, are cultivated to their sum-
mits. Those of a more lofty kind are adapted
for pasturing sheep and cattle. The district
possesses a variety of lakes. The principal rivers
are the Dee, the Ken, the Cree, and the Urr,
and the smaller streams are the Fleet, the Tarf,
the Deugh, and the Cluden. The Ken is con-
sidered the largest, receiving in its course all the
rivulets which drain the neighbouring hills, and
even receiving the Dee, although by some strange
chance the latter assumes the appellative pri-
vilege after entering the Ken. That the Ken
was anciently held as the superior river in
Galloway, is established by its name, which
signifies the head or chief. The Solway
Firth, in a circular form, washes the coast of
the stewartry from the Nith to the Cree, a
space of forty-five miles, and along the shore
of this useful estuary the coast is bold and
rocky, the cliffs rising sometimes to a great
height. Besides the salmon fishings at the
mouths of the rivers, the Solway affords every
opportunity for catching sea-fish, but for what
reason we know not, no part of the Scottish
shores is so destitute of fishermen and their
villages. The district is very nearly destitute of
coal, which, as well as the greater part of the
lime used, is brought from Cumberland. The
soil of the country is chiefly a thin mould, or a
brownish loam, mixed with sand, and is incum-
bent sometimes on gravel, and in many places
on rock. The whole is interspersed with mea-
dows and mingled with moss. Anciently the
land was covered with a forest, which is now
completely gone, or seen in dwindled remnants
on the banks of the streams. We learn from
the patient researches of the erudite Chalmers,
that as early as the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries this hilly territory was under a most
productive process of agriculture, originated
and improved by the assiduity of the numerous
monks in the different abbeys in the district.
It appears that in the summer and autumn of
the memorable year 1300, when Edward I.
subdued Galloway, he caused considerable
quantities of wheat to be exported from the
port of Kirkcudbright to Cumberland, and
even to Dublin, to be manufactured into flour ;
in this state it was brought back to victual
the castles of Ayr, Caerlaverock, Dumfries,
Lochmaben, and other strongholds. We
should not, however, suppose from this that
the district was without mills, for we find by
Dugdale's Monasticon, that Edward fined a
miller at the village of Fleet for some offence
in his mill, and he thence perhaps distrusted
the Scottish millers. In these times the staple
products were wheat and oats ; barley, peas,
and beans being only in small quantities. The
English garrisons used a good deal of malt for
their beer, but we find it was " brasium avenae"
— the malt of oats. These remarks may be
applied generally to Galloway, which, in point
of fact, was in a much more flourishing condi-
tion as regarded its agricultural wealth, in the
thirteenth, than it was in the seventeenth cen-
tury. Its age of prosperity was succeeded
by destructive intestine wars, rapine, misery,
fanaticism, sloth, and other follies, which last-
ed four hundred years, and reduced the coun-
try to a desert. At the beginning of the last
century, the stewartry is known to have ex-
hibited all the worst features of the system
of crofting by small tenants and cottagers,
who had neither the will nor the means to
improve the district. The first step made
towards a resuscitation of its agricultural cha-
racter, and the first of a series of extensive
improvements, was the enclosing of the lands
with fences in the year 1724. This bene-
ficial measure was viewed with the utmost
hostility by the country people, who, inflamed
by the harangues of a mountain preacher, ac-
tually rose to the number of five hundred,
and under the title of Levellers, proceeded to
demolish the fences which had been erected.
This tumultuous insurrection, which seems to
have originated in some peculiar notions as to
the general right of property, was suppressed
664
KIRKCUDBRIGHT.
by six troops of dragoons. After this the
country advanced in improvement, and when
shell marl was first applied as manure in 1740,
a great stride was made towards a better
condition. The land was now " torn in" on
a great scale, and after the year 1760, con-
siderable exportations began to be made. The
important changes which ensued have, with
justice, been traced in a great degree to Wil-
liam Craik of Arbigland, a person of original
genius, the chairman of the Dumfries Farm-
ing Society, who introduced new rotations of
cropping, new methods of cultivation, new
machinery, and new modes of treating cattle.
Since 1790 the district has coped with Dum-
fries-shire and other counties adjacent, in its
agricultural improvements, and in the begin-
ning of the present century, Colonel M'Dow-
al of Logan, accomplished much in reclaiming
moss-lands. Much has been effected by judi-
cious planting by several noblemen and gentle-
men of the stewartry, among whom Lord Daer,
whose noble qualities Burns has made fami-
liar to every one, is distinguished. In 1814 it
possessed 6000 horses, 50,000 cattle, and
178,000 sheep, besides swine to a prodigious
extent ; these animals being now a staple com-
modity in the usual produce, both for home
consumpt and exportation. The real rental
of the stewartry in 1811 was L. 83,487 for
lands, and L-3549 for houses. The manufac-
ture of linen, woollen, and cotton goods engages
a great number of hands in the towns and vil-
lages. The stewartry contains two royal burghs
—Kirkcudbright and New Galloway ; and
several considerable villages, as Maxwelltown,
Castle Douglas, Gatehouse-of- Fleet, Cree-
town, &c. most of which have been built with-
in the last seventy years. It includes twenty-
eight parishes. — Population in 1821, males
18,506, females 20,037; total 38,903.
KIRKCUDBRIGHT,aparishin the above
stewartry, situated on the east side of the Dee,
at its confluence with the Solway Firth, bound-
ed by Tongland and Kelton on the north,
and Rerwick on the east. On the south is the
Solway. In extent it measures seven miles
in length by from three to four in breadth,
being a tolerably regular parallelogram in
figure. It comprehends the three ancient
parishes of Kirkcudbright, Dunrod, and
Galtway, which were united in the seven-
teenth century. The churches of the two
latter have been since abandoned and ruin-
ed, but their several burial-grounds remain
in use. The district is billy, but the greater
part is under cultivation, or laid out in grass
parks.
Kirkcudbright, a royal burgh, the capi-
tal of the above stewartry and parish, the
seat of a presbytery, and a sea-port, occupies
a remarkable peninsular situation on the left
bank of the Dee, about six miles from its en-
trance into the Solway, at the distance of 100
miles from Edinburgh, 60 from Portpatrick,
and about 28 from Dumfries. Of the origin
of Kirkcudbright nothing is certain, and it is
only a matter of conjecture that it is as
old as the church of St. Cuthbert, which,
as it has given the name, may also be sup-
posed to have given origin to the place.
The church here spoken of was erected as
early as the eighth century, and some time be-
tween 1161 and 1174, it was granted by Uch-
tred the son of Fergus, the lord of Galloway,
to the monks of Holyrood, who retained it till
the Reformation, and by the general annexa-
tion act it was afterwards vested in the crown.
There was also in Kirkcudbright a church
dedicated to St. Andrew, which, after the
Reformation, was conferred on the burgh ; and
it appears that there was likewise a Franciscan
monastery, of which the records are altogether
silent. The establishment of St. Cuthbert's
church was preceded or followed by the erec-
tion of a small fort by the lords of Galloway,
which became in later times a castle in the
proprietary of the crown, and caused the place
to be put under the government of a con-
stable. During the domination of the Doug-
lasses in Galloway, Kirkcudbright became a
burgh of regality under their influence ; and
on their forfeiture, James II. erected the town
into a royal burgh, by a charter dated at Perth,
the 26th of October, 1455. Hector Boece,
referring to it soon after this period, calls it
" ane rich town full of merchandise," a charac-
ter it most likely deserved till injured by the
troubles in the country. Kirkcudbright, as
well on account of the castle as its prosperous
condition, was visited by Edward I. with his
queen and court, who spent some time here
during the warfare of 1300. In 1455 it was
visited by its patron, James II., in the course
of his march through Galloway to crush the
power of the Douglases. A few years later,
in 1461, Henry VI. with his queen and court
fled thither after his defeat at Towton ; and
this unfortunate monarch resided here for
some time, while Margaret, his queen, went
KIRKCUDBRIGHT.
665
to visit the Scottish queen at Edinburgh.
Next year Margaret sailed from Kirkcudbright
to Bretagne, and in 1463 Henry returned to
England in disguise. In 1508, the town was
again cheered by royalty, in the temporary re-
sidence of James IV., who was here hospi-
tably entertained. In 1547, a party of the
English army sent to revenge the broken
treaty of marriage between Edward VI. and
Mary queen of Scots, repaired to Kirkcud-
bright, with the intention of causing the peo-
ple to swear allegiance to their master ; but
though early in the morning, the people were
upon the alert, and shut their gates and kept
their dykes j " for," says our authority, " the
town was dyked on both sides, with a gate to
the water-ward and a gate on the over end to
the fell-ward ;" and this defence was effectual
in preserving the town. It then consisted of
a single street, at the extremity of which was
the harbour. In more recent history, Kirkcud-
bright does not make a very conspicuous figure.
With the revival of prosperity in the stewart-
ry, the capital arose from its original condition
into that state in which we now find it. In
the present day it is a town of remarkably
pleasing appearance; within, it is regular,
clean, and neat ; externally, it seems embosom-
ed in the beautiful foliage of a fine sylvan
country, and derives some degree almost of
city-like grandeur from the towers of the jail,
and of the ruined abode of the lords of Kirk-
cudbright, which at a little distance are
seen overtopping the ordinary buildings. It
consists of six or seven distinct streets, built
at right angles with each other, like those
of the New Town of Edinburgh. The
High Street, Castle Street, St. Cuthbert's
Street, and Union Street are the principal
thoroughfares. The western extremities of
the High Street and Castle Street are to-
wards the river. No town in Scotland pos-
sesses such a proportion of new houses ; the
cause of which is to be found in an arrange-
ment among the inhabitants, by which a
certain number of houses are built by sub-
scription every year, and acquired by lot. In
addition to the modern appearance which the
town has acquired in this way, it is ornament-
ed by the residences of many persons of good
fortune, which, instead of being scattered in
the suburbs of the town, as elsewhere, are
placed in the streets, and that in considerable
numbers. The town now possesses little or
no trade, and has no manufactures except
hosiery on a small scale and the weaving of
cotton. There is also a brewery. Chiefly
subsisting upon its resources as a county
town, it is a very quiet and genteel-looking
place. Several of the inhabitants are opulent ;
and few have the appearance of living in ab-
ject poverty. The stewartry buildings and
jail, erected in 1816, have a highly respectable
appearance ; and from the tall tower which sur-
mounts the latter an extensive view may be
obtained of the beautiful environs of the town.
The former jail and court-house is a very eu-
rious old structure, on the opposite side
of the same thoroughfare, with the market-
cross stuck up against it, and a pair of formi-
dable jougs attached thereto. From an inscrip-
tion, the date of its erection seems to have been
1504. A large and elegant academy has like-
wise been erected, containing a spacious room
for a public subscription library. The esta-
blished church is an old building erected on
the site of the Franciscan monastery, near the
harbour. In the High Street is a neat chapel
belonging to a United Associate congregation.
The annual fast day of the church is generally
the first Thursday of May. The town is pro-
vided with a news-room. The harbour is the
best in the stewartry ; at ordinary spring tides
the depth of the water is thirty feet, and at the
lowest neap tides eighteen feet. It is well cal-
culated for commercial purposes, but has no
communication with any of the manufac-
turing districts. There is as yet no bridge
across the Dee at Kirkcudbright, and passen-
gers and carriages have to be ferried over in a
flat-bottomed boat of a very peculiar con-
struction. The river is navigable for
two miles above the town, to the bridge of
Tongland, which is built of one arch of 110
feet span. The erection of a draw-bridge at
Kirkcudbright would be esteemed a great im-
provement. The town is entitled to hold two
annual fairs, and it has two weekly market-
days, Tuesday and Friday. A branch of the
Bank of Scotland is settled in the place. The
original charter of the burgh was renewed in
1633, by Charles I., and the town has since
been under the government of a provost, two
bailies, and thirteen councillors, with a trea-
surer and chamberlain. The burgh joins with
Dumfries, Annan, Sanquhar, and Lochmaben,
in sending a member to parliament. The re-
venue of the corporation is considerably in-
4 Q
666
KIRKCUDBRIGHT.
creased by salmon-fishings in the Dee. What
is called the castle of Kirkcudbright is a large
dingy house, partaking slightly of the fortified
character, formerly the property and residence
of the Lords of Kirkcudbright. Though
bearing date 1584, the walls are still perfect-
ly entire and very strong ; but the interior walls
of the building have been removed, and the
court now forms a wood-yard. The notice of
this ancient house, which occupies a situation
betwixt the foot of High Street and Castle
Street, near the river, leads us to explain who
the lords of Kirkcudbright were, and are ; for
the reader may confound them with the Dou-
glases, already mentioned as superiors in this
part of the country. The family of Kirkcud-
bright, which is surnamed Maclellan, traces its
origin to Sir Patrick Maclellan of the barony
of Bomby, who, having forfeited his posses-
sions by illegal depredations on the Douglas
lands in Galloway, they were recovered by his
son Sir William, during the reign of James II.,
in the following manner. A powerful band of
gipsies infesting the district of Galloway, that
sovereign issued a proclamation offering the
barony of Bomby as a reward to whoever should
disperse them and bring their captain dead or
alive. Roused by such a prospect of gaining
back his patrimony, Sir William Maclellan
succeeded in routing the marauders and in
bringing the head of their chief on the point of
his sword. The king accordingly rewarded
him, by the restitution of the property of Bom-
by ; and to commemorate this event the fortu-
nate knight adopted as his crest a right arm
erect, the hand grasping a dagger with a Moor's
head couped, proper, on the point thereof, with
the motto Think on — as significant of his form-
ing a resolution to re-acquire the family posses-
sions. Sir Robert, the sixth in the main line
of the Bomby family, was a gentleman of the
bed-chamber to James VI. and Charles I., and
by the latter was created a baron, with the title of
Lord Kirkcudbright, in 1 633. Dying without
male issue, the family honours, by a second re-
move, fell to John Maclellan of Burg, younger
brother of the first lord. This was a strange
personage who seems to have exemplified in
real life the fictitious misfortunes assigned in a
popular novel to another Galloway house. He
was a violent opponent of Oliver Cromwell
and the Independents, so long as they were in
power, and lost not a little in the royal service.
But such was this nobleman's felicitous knack
28.
of contradiction, that, when the Restoration
seemed to have put him on the right side of
the hedge, he was just as much in the wrong
as ever. For opposing the introduction of an
Episcopal clergyman into the church of Kirk-
cudbright, or rather for helping the honest old
women who took that matter in hand, he had
four of his neighbours sent to inquire into his
conduct ; a circumstance equivalent to an at-
tainder, for these good gentlemen were by no
means backward in finding reasons for sending
the unfortunate presbyterian to jail, and far
less in adjusting among themselves the parti-
tion of his estates. From these losses and
difficulties the family, however, arose, and after
a period of dormancy, the title was revived
in 1722, by a descendant of a collateral branch,
whose successors have since enjoyed the dis-
tinction of Lords Kirkcudbright. The castle
of Kirkcudbright, the nominal seat of this fa-
mily, has not been occupied since the fall of
Lord Kirkcudbright's fortunes at the Restora-
tion. Near the harbour of Kirkcudbright
may be seen the remains of a battery which
was erected by King William III., when
forced to put into Kirkcudbright bay during
a storm, on his voyage to raise the siege
of Londonderry. A more ancient piece of
fortification is pointed out at a little distance
from the town, in the shape of some indistinct
mounds, vulgarly called Castle- dykes, which
are now all that remain of that fort belong-
ing of old to the house of Douglas, and to
the crown, and which was, as has been seen,
the frequent residence of royalty. The burial-
ground of Kirkcudbright is situated about half
a mile north-east from the town, in a beautiful
and sequestered spot, surrounded by fine old
trees, being the precinct of the church of the
worthy Cuthbert. The church has long dis-
appeared ; but with a natural attachment to
the graves of their fathers, the people scrupu-
lously cling to the ancient place of sepulture,
in preference to any which might be laid out
in the more immediate vicinity of the town.
St Cuthbert's sacred ground contains some
very old monuments, which, owing to the laud-
able enthusiasm of a citizen of Kirkcudbright,
have been kept in singularly good order.
Among the rest are those of several cove-
nanters, who happened to be shot or hanged
in the neighbourhood, and whose epitaphs,
in rude gingling rhymes, unworthy of the
subject, do not suit very happily with the
KIRKCUDBRIGHT.
667
tranquil sorrow which seems to reign over
the rest of the beech-shaded graves. The
distinguishing ornament of Kirkcudbright is
St. Mary's Isle, the seat of the Earl of Selkirk,
which lies about a mile south from the town
farther down the Dee. Originally an island
between the waters of this river and the swel-
ling tide, it is now a peninsula projecting into
the bay, luxuriantly wooded with oak, chesnut,
walnut, and all the finer species of forest trees ;
and is, beyond all question, one of the loveliest
spots in Scotland. The house is large and of
respectable appearance. It was originally a
priory, which was founded either in the reign
of David I. or his successor Malcolm IV., in
the twelfth century, by Fergus, lord of Gal-
loway, and called " Prioratus Sanctae Mariae
de Trayll." The monks were canons regular
of the order of St. Augustine. Their prior, as
usual, was a lord of parliament, and we observe
that that dignitary held the office of royal trea-
surer from 1559 till 1571. After the Refor-
mation, this churchman, who was called Ro-
bert Richardson, and the commendator William
Rutherford, granted the greater part of the pro-
perty of the house to a person styled James
Lidderdail. The property in churches, &c.
was vested in the crown in 1587. The priory
of St. Mary was surrounded by high walls,
which have long since disappeared, and the
house itself was converted by many alterations
into a private dwelling-house. The back-wall
alone is said to be original, and the only other
memorials of the monks that can now be shown,
are, a richly ornamented font-stone with this
inscription round its brim, " Hie jacet J. E.
anno Domini 1404: Ave Maria! or a pro no-
bis," and a fountain of the purest and finest
water, shaded over with trees, called the
Monks' Well. The outer gate of the priory
stood at least half a mile from the house ;
and the place where it stood is still called
the Great cross. The inner gate led immedi-
ately to a group of cells, where the monks
lodged ; and is still denominated the Little
cross. — The intrepid and redoubtable Paul
Jones, the active partizan of America in the
war which secured its independence — though
still popularly remembered in Scotland only as
a lawless bucanier — comes into notice in con-
nexion with Kirkcudbright. His father, John
Paul, was gardener to Mr. Craik of Arbigland,
and young Paul was apprenticed to a ship-
owner in Whitehaven. From his excellent
character and talents he soon rose to be master
of a trading vessel belonging to Kirkcudbright.
When in command of an American ship, in
1778, immediately after his attack on White-
haven he appeared in Kirkcudbright bay, and
made a descent at the extreme point of St.
Mary's Isle, the seat of the Earl of Selkirk,
with a view, as he afterwards explained, of car-
rying off that nobleman as a hostage. Find-
ing his lordship was absent from home, he re-
turned to the boat with the design of leaving
the island, but was induced by the murmurs of
his crew to permit them to return to the house
for the purpose of bringing away the silver-
plate. He charged them, however, to take
only what was offered, and to come away with-
out making a search or demanding any thing
else. On the sale of the plate, Jones pur-
chased it and returned it at his own expense,
with a letter to the Earl explaining his motives
for the descent. From his Lordship's reply it
appears the officers and men engaged in the
affair behaved in the most respectful manner,
and strictly in accordance with the injunctions
of their commander. The plate was returned
exactly as it had been taken away ; it is even
said that the tea-pot which had been hastily
taken from Lady Selkirk's breakfast-table,
was found, on its return, to contain the tea-
leaves that were in it when carried off. The
news of an armed and inimical vessel hovering
on their coast, and of a band having landed and
attacked Lord Selkirk's house, soon reached
Kirkcudbright, whose inhabitants were thrown
into a dreadful panic by the event, though, as
ultimately appeared, without any reason for
their fears. — In the words of the author of " the
Picture of Scotland," from which some ot
the foregoing particulars are gleaned, this no •
tice of Kirkcudbright should not be terminated
without adverting to the excellent arrangements
and successful system of education pursued in
the high school or academy of the burgh, under
the patronage and direction of the magistrates.
Nor would the antiquary forgive us were we to
forbear mentioning that the vestiges of ancient
camps and fortresses are innumerable, indicat-
ing that this quarter of the country was former-
ly the scene of much greater activity than now.
The town has some other attractions. It is a
place where one could live very idly and very
cheaply ; and, to sum up all, if we were asked
to write out a list of the six prettiest and plea-
santest places in our native country, Kirkcud-
GC8
K I R KI NN E a
bright should occupy a conspicuoiis situation
in the catalogue. — Population of the burgh
in 1821 about 2000, including the parish
3377.
KIRKDEN,a paiish in Forfarshire, bound-
ed by part of G'thrie, Rescobie, and Dunni-
chen on the north, Dunnichen also on the west,
and Carmylie on the south. By a most awkward
arrangement, a large detached portion of Dun-
nichen parish lies in the centre of Kirkden, and
cuts it very nearly into two divisions. The
western division is a square of about two
miles ; the eastern is the same breadth, but ra-
ther larger. The parish is watered by the
L.unan water, and one of its tributaries called
the Vinny. The district has some remains of
antiquity, but of little interest. The lands are
now well cultivated, enclosed, and planted. —
Population in 1821, 813.
KIRKGUNZEON,aparishinthesrewart-
ry of Kirkcudbright, bounded on the north by
Lochrutton, on the east by Newabbey, on the
south by Colvend, and on the west by Urr;
extending seven miles from south to west, by
three and a half in breadth. The appearance
of the parish is rather hilly, but there is a good
deal of fine flat land adapted to agricultural
purposes. There are three ancient buildings
in the parish, Barclosh, Corrah, and Drumcul-
tran, once the seats of distinguished families.
The etymology of the name Kirkgunzeon has
so puzzled Symson, author of an account of Gal-
loway, that he is constrained to say it means
" the kirk of unction," from the religious de-
votion of former times ; but this is found to be
mere nonsense ; the ancient title, of which he
does not seem to have been aware, having been
Kirk-ivinnyn, or the church of St. Winnyn, a
saint who has similarly given a name to Kil-
winning. Of old, the parish belonged to the
abbey of Holm-Cultram in Cumberland. At
the south-west corner of the parish, on Dal-
beattie burn and enclosed by the parish of Urr,
stands the village of Dalbeattie. — Population in
1821, 776.
KIRKHILL, a parish in Inverness-shire,
lying immediately west from Inverness, on the
shore of Loch Beauly, having Kilmorack and
Kiltarlity on the north and west, and part of
Inverness on the south, extending eight miles
in length, by from one to three in breadth. For
four miles it is a narrow stripe ori an inclined
plane, facing the above indentation of the sea,
with a south-west exposure. Beyond these
four miles, the firth contracts, and the country
enlarges ; but instead of forming a plain, a
ridge of rising ground is projected and divides
it into two valleys ; the summit of this ridge
is Wardlaw or Mary's hill. The low grounds
are fertile, and the country is here generally
beautiful. The Kirktown of Kirkhill, is on the
Beauly river, which bounds the district on the
west. The parish is formed of the two ancient
parochial divisions of Wardlaw and Farnua.
—Population in 1821, 1572.
KIRKHILL, a village in the parish of
Pennycuick, Edinburghshire, situated on a
height, on the left bank of the North Esk,
nearly half a mile east from Pennycuick, and
inhabited principally by weavers and paper-
makers.
KIRKINNER, a parish in Wigtonshire,
lying with its east side to Wigton bay, bound-
ed by Sorbie and Glasserton on the south,
Mochrum on the west, and part of Kirkcowan
and Wigton on the north ; extending about
three miles along the sea-coast, and proceeding
inland a distance of more than five miles ; the
breadth of the parish in its inner part being
nearly eight miles. The Bladenoch water
divides it on the north from the parish of Wig-
ton. The surface is uneven or hilly, but in a
good state of culture, and embellished with plan-
tations. On the south side of the parish it is
touched by the lake of Dowalton or Longcas-
tel. The Kirktown of Kirkinner is on the
public road from Wigton to Garlieston.This
parish comprehends the two old parochial dis-
tricts of Kirkinner and Longcaster, or Long-
castel. The ancient church of the former was
dedicated to St. Kenneir, virgin and martyr,
who suffered death at Cologne, with many
others, in the year 450. Hence the name of
the parish, and, most probably, also, the com-
mon surname — Kinnear. This church was
granted by Edward Bruce, the lord of Gal-
loway, to the prior and canons of Whithorn.
In 1503, being resigned by these monks to
James V. in exchange for the church of Kirk-
andrews, that monarch attached it to the chapel-
royal of Stirling, and after this it formed the
benefice of the sub-dean of that establishment.
In 1591, James VI. granted the patronage of
the church to Sir Patrick Vans of Bambarroch,
and the representative of this person, Colonel
Vans Agnew, still enjoys the gift. The south-
ern part of the parish was that of Longcaster.
a district obtaining its name from an ancient cas-
KIRKLISTON.
0G<)
tie, the ruins whereof are still visible on an islet
in the above-mentioned lake. The ruins of
Longeaster church stand about a mile distant
from the lake. The annexation took place in
1630— Population in 1821, 1488.
KIRKINTILLOCH, or Kirkintul-
loch, a parish belonging to Dumbartonshire,
though it, along with Cumbernauld, lies several
miles detached eastward from the body of that
county. Under the head Dumbartonshire,
it has been mentioned that these two parishes
were annexed to the shire to which they now
belong, in the reign of Robert Bruce. The
parish of Kirkintilloch is bounded on the north
by Campsie, on the east by Cumbernauld, and
on the south and west by Cadder ; it extends
about six miles from east to west, having the
Kelvin river chiefly on its northern border, by
an average breadth of nearly two and ahalf
miles. The Forth and Clyde canal passes
through it on its northern side, near the Kel-
vin. The lands are almost entirely arable and
finely planted. The wall of Antoninus passed
through this parish, and its remains may still
here and there be traced. Originally, the dis-
trict, including this parish and that of Cumber-
nauld, formed but one parochial division under
the name of Lenzie or Lenyie — a term supposed
by the author of the Statistical Account to be
a corruption of Linea, as applicable to the
line of Roman wall intersecting this part of
the country; The division of the parish took
place in the seventeenth century, and for some
time the divisions were called Easter and
Wester Lenzie. Limestone, coal, and sand-
stone are abundant.
Kirkintilloch, or Kirkintulloch, a
considerable town, the capital of the above
parish, and a burgh .of barony, situated on
the water of Luggie, near its junction with
the Kelvin, at the distance of seven and a-half
miles north-east of Glasgow, and five west of
Kilsyth. It is understood to derive its name
from its locality, the original title being, it is
said, Caer-pen-tuUoch, which, in the Cambro-
British, signifies the fort on the head or end
of a hill, which is descriptive of the site of the
town, as it stands on the extremity of a ridge,
advancing from the south, into a plain on the
banks of the Kelvin. Whether this etymo-
logy be correct or not, the place was call-
ed Kirkintulloch in the charters of the twelfth
century. The ancient parish church was de-
dicated to St. Ninian, and before the year
1195 it was granted by William the son of
Thorald, the lord of the manor, to the monks
of Cambuskenneth, with whom it remained
till the Reformation. The ruins of this pri-
mary church, with a burying ground, are still
extant, about a mile south-east of the town of
Kirkintilloch. On its abandonment, the cha-
pel of the Virgin Mary, at this place, became
the parish church. Kirkintilloch was created
a burgh of barony in the twelfth century, by
William the Lion, in favour of William
Cumyne, baron of Lenzie, and lord of Cum-
bernauld ; and the latter barony is still held
for payment of twelve merks Scots of feu-duty.
The privileges of the burgh are extensive, and
it is governed by two bailies, chosen by the
freemen. Its inhabitants are chiefly artisans
who weave cotton goods for the Glasgow ma-
nufacturers. It possesses a modern town-
house, with a spire and clock. A fair is held
annually on the 20th of October. The po-
pulation of the town has been much on the
increase in recent times; in 1821 it amounted
to about 2500 ; and, including the parish, 4580.
KIRKLAND, an extensive establishment
for the spinning and preparation of linen yarn,
in the parish of Wemyss, county of Fife. It
consists of a large spinning house, and a series
of other erections, with residences for the
working people and proprietor ; and lies in a
secluded beautiful situation on the right bank
of the river Leven, at the distance of a mile
above the town of that name — See the article
descriptive of the town of Leven.
KIRKLISTON, a parish partly in the
county of Edinburgh and partly in the county
of Linlithgow, bounded by Dalmeny on the
north ; Abercorn, a detached portion of Dal
meny, and Ecclesmachan on the west ; Uphall
and Kirk-newton on the south ; and Ratho
and Corstorphine on the east. The form of
the parish is irregular, but the length may be
taken as being five and a half miles, and the
breadth three and a half. The Almond inter-
sects the district from south to north, that
portion on its left bank, which.is two thirds of
the whole, being in Linlithgowshire. The ori-
ginal condition of this district of country,
which is rather of an upland nature, was as
wretched and unproductive as many other out-
lying divisions of Mid-Lothian, but in process
of time, by the application of capital, science
and industry, has become one of the most thriv-
ing and best cultivated parishes in this part
670
KIRKLISTON.
of Scotland. The village of Kirkliston is
situated on a high portion of the parish on
the left bank of the Almond, within Linlith-
gowshire, at the distance of eight miles from
Edinburgh on the road to Falkirk. It is un-
distinguished by any thing worthy of remark ;
and has a plain modern edifice for a church,
which succeeded one of an ancient date, for-
merly belonging to the order of Knights- Tem-
plars. Not the least interesting objects in the
parish, are the house of Newliston and its
pleasure-grounds, once the favourite residence
of the Stair family, but now passed from them
into other hands. The celebrated John, Earl
of Stair, Field- Marshal to his Majesty's forces,
a nobleman equally distinguished for enter-
prise and capacity in the field, and for wisdom
in the cabinet, inherited the estate of New-
liston, and resided upon it for twenty years.
The pleasure-grounds, which have been long
known as a curiosity in their way, were, it
seems, disposed by this nobleman in a fanciful
manner, particularly by the planting of a va-
riety of trees, in clumps and other figures,
so as to bear, it is said, an exact resemblance
to the disposition of the British troops, on the
eve of the battle of Dettingen. By the growth
of the wood, and other circumstances, the
plan of the batik cannot be now distinctly trac-
ed from the position of the trees, but they
certainly have the appearance of such an ar-
rangement, and they are still as nicely trim-
med as any soldiers of Queen Anne's wars.
The grandmother of Earl John was Dame
Margaret Dalrymple, a daugher of Ross of
Balniel, who, according to popular belief,
purchased the temporal prosperity of her fa-
mily from the Master whom she served, un-
der a singular condition, thus narrated in the
life of her grandson, and noticed by Sir Wal-
ter Scott in the preface to the tale of the
" Bride of Lammermoor," — (new edition
1831). — " She lived to a great age, and at her
death desired that she might not be put under
ground, but that her coffin should be placed
upright on one end of it, promising, that while
she remained in that situation, the Dalrymples
should continue in prosperity. What was
the old lady's motive for such a promise, I can-
not take upon me to determine ; but it is cer-
tain her coffin stands upright in the aisle of the
church of Kirkliston, the burial-place of the fa^
mily." Having instituted some inquiries as to
the truth of this fact, the present writers have
learned that the coffin of Dame Margaret is not
standing ; and that it lies as flat as the others in
the vault beneath the Newliston aisle in the
church. Whether the estate of Newliston
departed from the house of Stair, when the
coffin was prostrated, is left to conjecture.
This same Dame Margaret, or Lady Stair, is
mentioned, by the author of " the Bride of
Lammermoor," as having been the prototype
of Lady Ashton, in that beautiful tale of fic-
tion. John, Earl of Stair, was also interred
in the above vault, and lies without a memen-
to of any kind to mark the spot where he rests.
To pass from this subject : Within a field on
the east side of the Almond, in Cramond
parish, but close on the boundary, stands a
remarkable monument of antiquity called the
Catstane. It consists of a single upright
stone of a prismatic figure, about four feet
and a-half high, and shows the remains of an
inscription, evidently in the Latin language.
The cutting is very rude, and somewhat
damaged, from the circumstance of a farmer,
some forty years since, having set fire to a pile
of rack around it, but still shows these letters,
in oc T
VMVLO IACI
VETTA D
VICTA
It is understood that this rude stone, and its
dilapidated legend, are commemorative of some
person or persons here interred, after being
slain in a battle near the spot, which was
fought in the year 995, between Kennethus,
natural brother, and commander of the forces,
of Malcolm II. King of Scotland, and Con-
stantine, the usurper of the crown, wherein
both generals were killed. But as this dis-
trict abounds in stone coffins, tumuli, and
other tokens of early strife, it is impossible
now to say that the date given to this monu-
ment is correct. A tradition exists in the pa-
rish, that in this quarter of the country the
plague raged very destructively at one time —
(most probably when it afflicted Edinburgh,
about the year 1649) — and a proprietor of a
small estate, who was named Linn, happened
most unfortunately to be smitten, after all his
precautions, by coming in contact with his dog,
which had gone into an infected house. Hav-
ing sickened and died, it seems no one would
attend his funeral, and one of his own servants
had to bury him in his garden. The place
where this took place is upon the Almond,
KIRKMAIDEN.
071
and is called Linn's MilL Here the solitary
grave of Linn is still shown, distinguished by
a humble monumental stone, with the inscrip-
tion :
Here lieth William Linn,
The rightful heir of Linn.
Another object of antiquarian research in
Kirkliston parish is Niddry Castle, which is
now a deserted ruin. It has been said that it
was in this house in which Queen Mary rest-
ed on the night on which she made her escape
from Loch Leven Castle. A short way north
from Niddry Castle, on the road from Edin-
burgh, stands the small village of Winchburgh,
a place at which, it is traditionally mentioned,
Edward I. rested in his flight from Bannock-
burn — Population in 1821, 2213.
KIRKMABRECK, a parish in the stew-
artry of Kirkcudbright, lying on the east side
of Wigton Bay, bounded by Anwoth and
Girthon on the east, and Minnigaff on the
north, extending eight miles in length by about
four in breadth. The district is hilly, with
some good arable valleys, and a few planta-
tions in these places and on the shore. There
are several elegant seats, of which Kirkdale-
House and Barholm are the principal. The
word Kirkmabreck, signifies in the Scoto-
Irish speech,. " the kirk on the variegated
plain," which is descriptive of the locale of
the old church, which stood at a place near the
shore in a plain abounding with granite stones,
of a speckled appearance. The modern
church stands at Creetown, a neat village,
to the north, noticed in its appropriate place.—
Population in 1821, 1519.
KIRKMAHOE, a parish in Nithsdale,
Dumfries-shire, lying on the left bank of the
Nith, immediately north from Dumfries,
bounded by Tinvvald and Kirkmichael on the
east, on the north by Closeburn, and on the
west by Holywood and Dunscore. It extends
about eight miles from north to south, by five
in breadth at the middle. On the south it
tapers to a point. The northern and eastern
parts are hilly, but there are no mountains of
any note. Where the parish joins Tinwald,
there are many little rising grounds. This
district was not begun to be improved in 1750,
and at that time it owned only two carts.
The first improver was Mr. Johnston of Carn-
calloch, whose example was quickly followed,
and the spirit of imitation, with the intelligence
of modern times, has now effected great meli-
orations in the soil and climate. The lands
are well cultivated, and there are several
plantations. The largest estate in the parish is
Dalswinton, long the property of a family nam-
ed Miller, whose seat stands near the Nith.
Besides a modern village on this estate, there
are four others, among which is Duncow and
Kirkmahoe. The latter, with the church, which
is a handsome Gothic edifice of modern erection,
stands on a rivulet tributary to the Nith, near
the southern extremity of the parish. The
name of the parish cannot be attributed to
that of a saint, inasmuch as in the whole
hagiology there does not appear a St. Maho ;
and, therefore, George Chalmers has shrewdly
conjectured that it imports the kirk on the
plain near the water, from magh a plain and o
water (hence Mayo, in Ireland). In the
northern part of the parish there was formerly
a church dedicated to St. Blane, a favourite
confessor of the eleventh century ; which still
gives the name of Kilblane to its site. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 1008.
KIRKMAIDEN, a parish in the county
of Wigton, occupying nearly the whole of the
western limb or peninsula of the shire, pro-
jected southwards into the mouth of the Sol-
way Firth. Luce Bay bounds it on the east ;
Stonykirk parish is on its land boundary.
From Chapel- Rosen bay, or Luce bay, where
the line of division is, to the extreme south
point of the land, the length is about ten miles,
by a breadth of from two to four miles and
a half. On the south the parish tapers to a
point, with an inclination to the east. The
southern termination of the parish is the most
southerly land in Scotland, being advanced about
two degrees more to the south than the latitude
of Newcastle. Such a circumstance is the sub-
ject of proverbial expression in the same man-
ner as John o' Groats House is, in reference
to the other extremity of Scotland. In such
allusions the component parts of the name are
transposed. Burns' lines will recur to remem-
brance :
Hear land o' Cakes and brither Scots,
Frae Maiden-Kirk to Jonny Groats, &c.
The parish of Kirkmaiden obtained its appel-
lation from the church, which was dedicated to
St. Medan, of whom little is now known.
Of old, the church was a dependancy of the
abbey of Saulseat. The modern church is
situated on the road along the eastern side of
the peninsula, near Drumore Bay. Farther
672
KIKKMICHAEL.
south is the Maryport Bay or Haven, which
takes its name from a chapel dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, and which was in ruins when
Symson wrote in 1684. The parish of Kirk-
maiden has still a wild appearance, but pro-
duces good crops of corn and potatoes, and
feeds numbers of black cattle. The coast is
generally bold and indented by caves created
by the furious lashing of the sea during storms.
There are several good anchoring grounds on
both sides of the peninsula. The coast pro-
duces great quantities of sea-ware. Sand-
stone and whinstone abound, and the slate
quarries are valuable — Population in 1821,
2210.
KIRKMICHAEL, a parish in Nithsdale,
Dumfries-shire, consisting of the united pa-
rishes of Kirkmichael and Garrel; bounded
on the north by Kirkpatrick-juxta, on the east
by Johnstone and Lochmaben,on the south by
Tinwald, and on the west by Closebum and
Kirkmahoe ; extending about eleven miles in
length from north to south, by a breadth of
nearly six miles. The river Ae bounds the
parish on the west, and here and on Glenkill
burn, which intersects the district, the land is
arable. The lower or south-east parts are
generally plain, interspersed with rising grounds.
The district was in a poor condition forty years
since, but is now considerably improved. The
parish kirk is near the Ae. The old church
was dedicated to St. Michael, as the name sig-
nifies. The ancient church of Garrel or Gar-
vald, was a mensal church of the bishops of
Glasgow. The junction of the parishes took
place in 1660.— Population in 1821, 1202.
KIRKMICHAEL, a parish in the district
of Carrick, Ayrshire, lying on the south side
of the Doon water, opposite Dalrymple, and
having Maybole on the west, separating it from
the sea; extending nine miles in length, by a
breadth of four miles. The surface is hilly,
and towards the south and east mountainous
and rocky. The ground is for the most part
pastoral. The water of Girvan runs through
the southern part of the parisb, and near it is
the kirktown of Kirkmichael, and the seat
called Kirkmichael House. There are now a
few plantations Population in 1821, 2235.
KIRKMICHAEL, a large parish in
Banffshire, occupying the upper extremity of
the county from beyond the mountain of Cairn-
gorm, to near the confluence of the Livat
with the Aven, a length of about twenty-five
miles, by a variable breadth of from three to
six. The parish is chiefly the great wild vale
of the river Aven, from its source in Loch
Aven near Cairngorm, to the spot just men-
tioned. The water of Altnach forms the boun-
dary with Inverness-shire for a considerable
length, and the heights which separate Banff-
shire from Aberdeenshire are the boundary on
the other side. The parish adjoining further
down the vale is Inveraven. The district is
only in a small proportion arable. The church
of the parish stands nearer the foot than head ot
the parish, on the right bank of the Aven, at
the small village of Tomantoul, of which the
reverend statist of the parish presents some
curious, and we must say, indelicate, particu-
lars. He represents it as a place quite unfetter-
ed by laws human or divine. " No monopo-
lies are established here," says he, "no re-
straints upon the industry of the community.
All of them sell whisky, and all of them drink
it. When disengaged from this business, the
women spin yarn, or dance to the discordant
tunes of an old fiddle. The men, when not
participating in such amusement, sell small ar-
ticles of merchandise, or let themselves occa-
sionally for days-labour, and by these means
earn a scanty subsistence for themselves or
families. The village, to them, has more than
the charms of a Thessalian Tempe. Absent
from it, they are seized with the vial de pais ,-
and never did a Laplander long more ardently
for his snow-clad mountains, than they sicken to
re-visit the barren moor and their turf-thatch-
ed hovels. Here the Roman Catholic priest
has got an elegant meeting-house, and the Pro-
testant clergyman the reverse of it ; yet, to an
expiring mode of worship, it would be illiberal
to envy this transient superiority, in a countiy
where a succession of ages has witnessed its
absurdities. A school is stationed at the vil-
lage." Since this notice was written, Toman-
toul has been a good deal improved, and must
have been by this time very properly cured of
its free-trading system by a gentle application
of the Excise laws. — Population in 1821, 1570.
KIRKMICHAEL, a parish occupying the
north-east corner of Perthshire, adjoining
Aberdeenshire on the north, and Forfarshire
on the east ; bounded by parts of Bendochy,
Blair- Gowrie, and Cluny, on the south, and
Logierait, Dowally, Moulin, and Blair-
Athole on the west ; extending seventeen miles
in length, and from six to se\ en in breadth
KIRKOSWALD.
673
It comprehends the greater part of Strathardle,
and the whole of Glenshee. The Ardle in-
tersects its southern quarter. The Shee is in
the north. The district is arahle on the banks
of these waters, especially the former, and
there are some neat seats with plantations. A
good road passes along the left bank of the
Ardle. The military road from Cupar- Angus
to Fort- George proceeds through the northern
part of the parish, by the Spittal of Glenshee.
The kirk and village of Kirkmichael stand on
the left bank of the Ardle. — Population in
1821, 1551.
KIRKMICHAEL and CULLECUD-
DEN, a united parish in the counties of Ross
and Cromarty, consisting of a portion of that
peninsular territory called Ardmeanach or
Black Isle, bounded by the Cromarty Firth on
the north, and by the ridge of the Mullbuy,
an extensive tract of common which stretches
along the summit of the peninsula, on the
south ; extending eight miles in length from
east to west, and three milts in breadth from
north to south. This common is now divided
among the adjacent proprietors. — Population
in the year 1793, 1234; no returns in 1811 or
1821.
KIRKNEWTON, a parish in the coun-
ty of Edinburgh, including the abrogated
parochial division of Calder Clere, extend-
ing six miles in length, by about four in
breadth. On the south and west it is bound-
ed by Mid- Calder, on the east by Currie and
Ratho, and on the north by Ratho and
Kirkliston. The Almond river runs along
its western boundary. The surface is very
generally hilly, especially towards the north,
but on the south and east it is of a level
and fertile nature. In these latter directions
there are many thriving plantations and well
disposed arable fields. The villages in the
parish are Kirknewton and East Calder, the
latter, which is the principal, lies on the south
road from Edinburgh to Glasgow. The pa-
rish contains some fine seats and pleasure
grounds ; one of these is Meadowbank, once
the residence of a late Senator of the College
of Justice, entitled Lord Meadowbank, who
was one of the chief improvers in this quar-
ter. The celebrated Dr. Cullen, who was
proprietor of the estate of Ormiston-hill, and
one of the most distinguished agricultural im-
provers in this part of the country, lies inter-
ed in the church-yard of Kirknewton. Dal-
mahoy, a seat of the Earl of Morton, is also in
the parish. The manner in which the proper-
ty came into the possession of this family, and
the reason for a part of the district being
styled Calder- Clere, are explained under the
head Calder. — Population in 1821, 1513.
KIRKOSWALD, a parish in the district
of Carrick, Ayrshire, lying on the sea-coast,
along which it extends about six miles, imme-
diately south of Maybole, and containing
11,000 Scots acres. The sea-coast presents
for the greater part a sandy beach, with a beau-
tiful rich sward to the very sea-mark. The
surface of the parish is hilly, but the hills, ex-
cept in two instances, Mochrum and Craig-
dow, never rise to a considerable height. Near
Mochrum there is a loch which covers twenty-
four Scots acres, and another nearly as large,
near Craigdow. From these lakes and from
the springs which rise out of every hill, flow
many small streams, which wander through
the district, towards the sea. Except the very
tops of the above hills, nearly the whole pa-
rish is arable. Of late years there have been
raised various beautiful plantations, particu-
larly near the coast around Culzean, the seat
of the Marquis of Ailsa. In proceeding from
Girvan to Maybole, by the coast-road through
this parish, at the distance of five miles north
from the former, the remains of Turnberry
Castle may be seen upon the points of a
rocky promontory which projects into the sea
from a low sandy beach of several miles in
extent. Turnberry was the property and
residence of Robert Bruce, having been ac-
quired by his father's marriage to Marjorie,
Countess of Carrick. It was in the neigh-
bourhood of this place that a kiln-fire, mis-
taken by the hero for an appointed signal,
brought him prematurely over from Arran
with his followers, to attempt the deliverance of
his country, as related by Barbour, Sir Wal-
ter Scott, and others of his historians. Burns
describes the place as " where Bruce ance
ruled the martial ranks, and shook his Carrick
spear." Though Turnberry is dreadfully dila-
pidated, and worn by the action of the sea
and weather, the vestiges of the drawbridge,
several large vaults, or caves, and the extent
of rock covered by the ruins, testify, in a very
impressive manner, the former vast strength
and importance of the fortress. Within sight
of Turnberry, and not more than a mile
from it, the farm of Shanter may be seen
4 u
674
KIRKOSWALD.
on the height which gently swells up from
the shore towards Kirkoswald. This was
the residence fifty years ago, sooner or later,
of Douglas Graham, a rough-spun Carrick far-
mer, who was in the habit of wearing a
broad blue bonnet, riding a sturdy white mare,
and getting regularly drunk at all the fairs and
markets held within forty miles round. Burns,
being on a visit for some months, when nine-
teen years of age, at the farm of Ballochniel,
Ihen occupied by a maternal relation, had con-
s tant intercourse with this doughty hero, and
ft ill leisure to observe all the peculiarities of
his highly original and amusing character. He
accordingly is made the hero of his poem,
" Tarn o' Shanter ;" though we are not una-
ware that the honour is disputed in favour of
a person called Thomas Reid, another far-
m<r in this part of the country. The pic-
ture there given of the dissolute manners of a
Carrick farmer is generally allowed in Ayrshire
to have been by no means overcharged. Smug-
gling having at that period wrought fearful
changes in their primitive character, and in-
volved them in all the evils of dissipation and
idleness, it was nothing unusual for the whole
family — men, women and children — to conti-
nue in a state of intoxication for three days
and nights without intermission. It is even
said to have been by no means an unfrequent
occurrence, at the farm of Shanter in particu-
lar, for the servants to be so stupid with li-
quor, as to boil the matinal meal of the fami-
ly with brandy instead of water, a mistake the
more natural, because all the domestic vessels
were occasionally put in requisition to hold
the generous fluids which had been hastily
transferred from on board the passing luggers.
The farm of Shanter is now annexed to another
farm ; all the buildings of the steading have
been taken away ; and a modern cottage, built
out of the materials, and occupied by one poor
family, alone exists to mark the place to the
eye of the curious traveller. The relation
with whom Burns resided at Ballochniel was
Samuel Brown, his mother's brother ; and this,
probably, was the scene of a love adventure,
alluded to in his letters, as having overset
his mathematical studies. Kirkoswald is
a picturesque old village ;" and the school still
stands which Burns attended when residing at
Duwhat. The noble mansion of Culzean, the
seat of the Marquis of Ailsa, is situated upon a
bold part of the shore, about three miles north
29
from these last mentioned localities. This is
the finest house in Ayrshire ; and whether its
architectural elegance, its internal decoration, or
its prospect sea-ward be considered, commands
the admiration of all strangers. It was built
about the year 1770. The rock underneath
the castle is penetrated by deep caves, which
the vulgar have peopled with supernatural be-
ings, and which are known to have afforded
shelter, after the Revolution, to Sir Archibald
Kennedy of Culzean, who had rendered him-
self offensive by his adherence to the cause of
the exiled family. Between Kirkoswald and
Maybole are situated, in a low valley, the re-
mains of the abbey of Corsregal, Crossraguell,
or Crosragwel. This once important religious
house was founded by Duncan, the first Earl
of Carrick, who died about, the year 1 240 ;
it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Dun-
can had granted to the monks of Paisley se-
veral churches, and some lands in Carrick,
upon condition that they should establish in
that country a monastery of their order ; but
they having failed to perform this, he founded
the abbey now under notice, for Cluniac
monks — (the order of those of Paisley) — and
transferred to it the churches and lands which
he had granted conditionally to the establish-
ment at Paisley. Enraged at being thus de-
frauded, as they thought, of the emoluments
which they had received, the abbot and monks
of that place endeavoured to claim the new
establishment at Crossraguell, as a cell of their
own monastery ; but, after a struggle of some
duration, this controversy was decided against
them. The endowment of Crossraguell, by
the founder, was greatly augmented by addi-
tional grants from his son Neil, the second
Earl of Carrick, from his grand-daughter
Marjorie, Countess of Carrick, and from his
great-grandsons, Robert Bruce and Edward
Bruce. The monks of the establishment ob-
tained from Robert III. in 1404, a charter
confirming to them all their churches and
lands, to be held in free regality, with the
mostamplejurisdiction, comprehending even the
four points of law that belonged to the crown.
The last abbot was the celebrated Quentin
Kennedy, upon whose death, in 1564, George
Buchanan obtained from the Queen a grant of
a pension of L.500 yearly, from the revenues
of the abbey, for life ; but the Earl of Cas-
sillis seized possession, and it required all the
authority of the queen and her council to
KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING.
675
maintain the rights of the historian. Mr. Alan
Stewart, a younger son of James Stewart of
Cardonald, was appointed commendator on the
ahhot's death ; but owing to the violence of
the Earl of Cassillis, he found much danger, aad
little profit, in his appointment. Impelled by
;i diabolical rapacity, the Earl seized the com-
mendator, who enjoyed the principal part of
the revenues, and in order to make him sign a
deed in his favour, roasted him before, or over,
a slow fire, till pain obliged him to comply.
Buchanan hearing of this horrible exertion of
feudal power, put his person under the pro-
tection of the state, lest he might have been
caught and roasted on the same account.
The brutal earl was one of the most zealous of
the reformers, and like too many of his bre-
thren in that holy cause, chiefly indebted for
his hypocritical enthusiasm to a love of the
good things of this world. The only good
point we discover in his history, was the
protection he yielded, at the Reformation, to
the abbey itself, which he helped to preserve
from demolition. Ruined, as it now is, the
abbey is one of the most entire in the west of
Scotland. Two towers, or castles, close to
the ruins, and which were the houses occupied
by the abbots, are yet but little injured ; and
the chapter-house, as in the cases of Glenluce,
Elgin, &c. is fortunately almost entire, being
a small but beautiful apartment supported by
one pillar in the centre. Grose has given
three views of the ruins. — Population in 1821,
1847.
KIRKPATRICK-DURHAM, a parish
in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, bounded by
Dunscore, in Dumfries-shire, on the north, by
Balmaclellan and Parton on the west, Cross-
michael and Urr on the south, also by the latter
with Kirkpatrick- Irongray on the east, ex-
tending nearly ten miles in length, by an ave-
rage breadth of three miles and a half. The
upper part of the parish, which gradually rises
to the north, is pastoral, and the lower or
southern part arable. The parish is now con-
siderably improved by the enterprise of diffe-
rent proprietors. The Urr water skirts the
parish on its west side. The old church was
dedicated to St. Patrick, and the adjunct
Durham in the name of the parish, is taken
from the hamlet at which it stood. Durham,
signifies the hamlet on the water, and the
church and village stand on a streamlet which
falls into the Urr. In the western part of the
parish there was of old a church dedicated to
St. Bridget, upon the bank of the Urr, at a
place still distinguished by the name of Kirk-
bride.— Population in 1821, 1473; in 1831,
1487.
KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING, a parish
in the district of Annandale, Dumfries-shire,
comprehending the old parishes of Kirkpatrick,
Kirkconnel, and Irvin, which were united after
the Reformation. The name of the lord of the
manor, Fleming, during the fourteenth and fif-
teenth centuries, was added to the name of the
present parish to distinguish it from others of
the same name. It is bounded on the north by
Middlebie, on the west by Middlebie and An-
nan, on the south by Graitney and Dornock, and
on the east by Half- Morton. It extends from
north to south nearly six miles, by a general
breadth of two and a half. The Kirtle water
bounds the district partly on the west, and cross-
ing the lower division it enters the.parish of
Graitney. The surface of the country rises from
south to north by a gradual succession of wav-
ing swells of a pleasing appearance. A great
portion is now arable and finely planted. The
parish abounds in freestone. The interest at-
tached to the parish of Kirkpatrick- Fleming is
derived more from moral than physical causes.
Here stood, at a place called Redhall, on the left
bank of the Kirtle, the baronial mansion of "the
bold Flemings," who are noted in border history
for the stand they often made in cases of English
aggression in the lower part of Dumfries-shire.
The lands which they enjoyed were, it seems,
held by the tenure of defending the district at
all times, and at all hazards, against the Eng-
lish forces ; and the manner in which they kept
possession of their castle shows that they
steadily fulfilled the obligation of their char-
ter. Towards the conclusion of Baliol's reign,
in one of Edward's incursions into Scotland,
the tower of Redhall was attacked by an Eng-
lish army. It was at the time occupied by no
more than thirty Flemings, who, in spite of
every attempt, held out a close siege of three
days. Offers were made of an honourable na-
ture to induce the surrender; but all would
not do. They swore to each other that they
would hold out to the last extremity, whatso-
ever might be the result. Fire was at length
applied to the edifice, and while the smoke
shrouded it partially from the foe, they were
beheld standing in mute defiance of the Eng-
lish on the topmost battlement. The flames
676
KIRKPATRICK-JUXTA.
shortly reached them in this exalted situation,
and they sunk at last in the midst of the roar-
ing furnace, bequeathing a name for daring
hardihood, which is still remembered with re-
verence in the district. No vestige of the
tower is extant ; but its site is still pointed out
to the curious tourist. The parish contains
certain interesting localities, consecrated by
the Scottish muse. A rivulet called Logan
water, with the " braes," which bound it in
its course, have been celebrated by a ballad or
song, by Mayne, from an old one well known
in our national anthology. Within the vale of
Logan once stood a chapel, alluded to in the
ballad as a kirk : —
" Nae mair at Logap-Kirk will he,
Atween the preachings, meet wi' me,
Meet, with me, and when it's mirk,
Convoy me hame frae Logan-Kirk."
We find by the chartulary of Glasgow, that
Logan chapel, along with the church of Kirk-
patvick, was the property of the monks of
Giseburn, who conceded to the bishops of
Glasgow the right of collation to both places
of worship, but reserved to themselves the
tithe of corn ; and it was stipulated that they
should receive yearly a skepful of meal from
the rector of Kirkpatrick. This transaction
took place in the year 1223, so that Logan
chapel was of considerable antiquity. It seems
that it existed till the seventeenth century,
and its site, which bears the name of Chapel-
Know, is pointed out at a place called Logan-
Mains. The river Kirtle traverses, in this
parish, the scene of the impassioned and pa-
thetic tale of " Fair Helen of Kirkconnel
Lee," which has been embodied in so many
and in such various forms of poetry. Fair
Helen is said to have been a lady of the name
of Irving, and to have lived about three cen-
turies ago. She was the daughter of a person
of rank, but beloved for her beauty only, by a
gentleman named Adam Fleming. Another
lover, whom she had rejected, entertaining the
most fiendish emotions of revenge, stole one
day upon their privacy, as they were conversing
in a bower upon the banks of the Kirtle, and
fired a carabine across the stream at the bosom
of Fleming. Helen leapt before her lover,
and, receiving the shot, immediately fell down
and expired. Fleming then drew his sword,
pursued the murderer, and is said not to have
been satisfied with vengeance till he had cut
his body into a thousand pieces. After this
he went abroad and served as a soldier in
some foreign army ; but, finding no peace of
mind, he at last came home and laid himself
down upon the grave of his mistress, from
which he never again arose. The graves of
both the lovers are pointed out in the church-
yard of Kirkconnel, near Springkell; that of
Fleming is distinguished by a stone bearing
the figure of a cross and sword, with the in-
scription " Hie jacet Adamus Fleming''' A
heap of stones is raised on the spot where the
murder was committed ; and the peasantry still
point out the place where Fleming slew the
murderer at a little distance, upon the oppo-
site banks of the Kirtle. — Population in 1821,
1696.
KIRKPATRICK-IRONGRAY, a pa-
rish in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, lying on
the right or south bank of the Cairn Water, which
separates it from Holywood in Dumfries-shire,
bounded by Terregles on the east, Lochrutton
on the south, and Kirkpatrick-Durham on
the west. It is situated only a few miles
west of Dumfries. On the west the dis-
trict is hilly ; on the east and in the other low
parts the land is now under excellent cultiva-
tion. The adjunct Irongray is put to the
name to distinguish it from other places of a
similar name. Irongray is the local name of
the place where the church was placed, and
signifies " Gray's land ;" Iron, Em, Earan,
and Arn, all meaning "land," in Scoto-Irish. —
Population in 1821, 880.
KIRKPATRICK-JUXTA, a large pa-
rish in the upper part of the district of An-
nandale, Dumfries-shire, of a triangular figure,
each side measuring about eight miles in length ;
bounded on the north and east by Moffat, on
the south by Johnston, and on the west by
Closeburn, as well as Crawford in Lanark-
shire. It comprises thirty and a quarter square
miles, or 15,430 Scots acres. The surface
resembles that of the rest of the country in this
quarter, being hilly, and only arable in the
dales. Of late there have been various im-
provements made, and there are now some
thriving plantations. The Kinnel water in-
tersects the district, and the Evan runs through
its north-eastern part to join the Annan, which
bounds the parish on the east. This upland
parish was long in a backward condition, and
the writer of the statistical account, to illus-
trate this circumstance, mentions that seven-
ty years before his time, there was not a pane
KIRKWALL.
677
of glass in tbe parish, except in two houses ;
"and now, (in 1792)," says he, "every house
has at least one glass window !" In the fif-
teenth century, the adjunct juxla was added to
the name of the parish, in order to distinguish
it from Kirkpatrick-Fleming in the same
county. Judging from the following case in
the records of the Scots parliament, it would
appear that the parsons of the old church of the
parish did not always enjoy peacefid possession
of their property among the Annandale thieves :
— On the 3d of July 1489, a cause was heard
by the lords auditors in parliament, at the in-
stance of Mr. Clement Fairlie, the parson of
Kirkpatrick-juxta, and Robert Charteris of
Amisfield, his lessee, against several persons,
for the spoliation of the Pasch-reckoning,
[Easter offerings,] of the said kirk, and the
penny offerings on St. Patrick's day, amount-
ing to ten merks ; and for the spoliation of
two hundred lambs, which were valued at L. 18,
and a sack of tithe wool, containing twenty-
four stone that was valued at L.12, and for
unjustly possessing and labouring the forty
shilling land, belonging to the said kirk. The
lords ordained the defenders to make full resti-
tution and give satisfaction for the damages ;
and they issued a precept to the Stewart of
Annandale to enforce this judgment. — On the
left bank of the Evan water, in this parish,
stands the ruin of Auchancass Castle, originally
a quadrangular edifice, measuring 130 feet each
way. It is understood to have belonged to
the family of Bruce, once lords of Annandale.
—Population in 1821, 912.
KIRKTOWN, a parish in Roxburghshire,
lying like a long stripe between the parish of
Hawick and part of Cavers on the west, and
Hobkirk and another part of Cavers on the
east ; extending eight miles in length, by from
one to two and a half in breadth. The district
is hilly and mostly of a pastoral nature. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 315, being five less than in
1801.
KIRKURD, a parish in the western con-
fines of Peebles-shire, bounded by Linton and
Newlands on the north, part of Newlands and
Stobo on the east, part of Stobo ani Brough-
ton and Skirling on the south, and Dolphington
on the west. In extent it measures five and a
half miles in length, by from three to four in
breadth. The sluggish Tarth river, a tributa-
ry of the Tweed, bounds a great part of the
parish on its northern side, and from this water
the land rises in finely cultivated and enclosed
fields, and then becomes of a hilly description,
with eminences richly clothed in thriving plan-
tations. The district is now much improved,
chiefly by the principal landed proprietor in
this quarter, Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael,
The modern church of Kirkurd stands near
the road side on the thoroughfare from
Tweeddale towards Glasgow by Biggar. The
name of the parish imports " the kirk on the
height," — urd, ord, or aird, all signifying an
eminence of some kind. There are some
farms in the parish with the same adjunct, as
Lochurd, Leddyurd, Netherurd, &c. The an-
cient church of Kirkurd belonged at an early
period to the bishops of Glasgow, one of whom
gave it to the hospital of Soltra, (for an ac-
count of which, see Fala,) about the begin-
ning of the thirteenth century, and it remained
the property of this useful and pious institution
till 1462, when Mary of Gueldres transferred
the hospital to the Trinity collegiate church at
Edinburgh ; though on condition tliat the
sacrist of that establishment should keep in
repair the kirk of Kirkurd. The urd so fre-
quently found in connexion with names in this
parish, would seem to have been derived from
the very extensive domain or barony of Urd or
Ord, (this being a high part of the country,)
a great part of which was granted about 1 226,
by Walter Murdak, its proprietor, to the
Monks of Paisley, who hence included it
within their regality. At a later date it pass-
ed into the possession of the Scots of Buc-
cleugh. — Population in 1821, 352.
KIRKWALL and ST. OLA, a united
parish on the mainland of Orkney, compre-
hending the town of Kirkwall and a district of
country around it, stretching from sea to sea,
and measuring between four and five miles
square ; bounded on the east by St. Andrews'
parish, and on the west by Orphir and Sten-
nis. An indentation of Scalpa Flow pene-
trates the southern side of the parish, and a si-
milar inlet called Kirkwall bay is protruded
on the north side directly opposite it. Be-
twixt the heads of the two inlets the distance
is just two miles, and from one to the other
the land partakes of the character of a strath.
The rest of the parish is hilly and of a pasto-
ral character ; the low_grounds, and especially
the territory round Kirkwall, being arable, and
by proper manuring and working, yielding good
crops of big and oats.
678
KIRKWALL
KIRKWALL, a town of great antiquity,
a royal burgh, the seat of a synod and presby-
tery, and the capital of the above parish and of
the Orkney islands, is situated at the head of
the bay of Kirkwall, with a northern exposure,
at the distance of fourteen miles north-east
from Stromness, fifty-eight from Wick, fifty-
nine from Thurso, 334| from Edinburgh, and
forty- one from Houna, the most northerly part
of Great Britain. It stands in north latitude
58° 33', and in west longitude 0" 25'. The
direction of the town is that of the strath to-
wards Scalpa Flow, and it extends nearly a
mile in length, but consists of little else than
a single street. This thoroughfare is exceed-
ingly inconvenient from its narrowness, and
particularly from its pavement, which was
complained of, we perceive, by the statist of
the parish in 1793, and which is now, if not
very recently mended, in the worst possible
state. By a fashion common in old Scottish
towns, borrowed from a usage in the north of
Europe, the houses are generally placed with
their ends or gables towards the street, which
gives the town an awkward appearance. Many
of these houses bear strong marks of old age,
as the doors and windows are very small, the
walls uncommonly thick, and almost all the
apartments narrow, gloomy, and irregular. To
this form, however, there are also many ex-
ceptions ; for such of them as have been lately
repaired or rebuilt, and particularly such new
ones as have been erected, may, both for ele-
gance and conveniency, compare with those of
any other town of the same extent in Scot-
land. The time when, and the persons by
whom Kirkwall was founded, are both lost in
the darkness of antiquity. Previous to the
junction of the western and northern islands
with the kingdom of Scotland, it was under
the rule of the Norwegians or Danes, by whom
it was called Kirkivog, Kirkvaa, or Kirkwaa,
words signifying " the Great Kirk," in allusion
to the cathedral of St. Magnus, here planted,
and from which the present name Kirkwall is
derived. This venerable edifice, which still
exists, is the chief object of curiosity in Kirk-
wall, and is remarkable as the only structure
of the kind, besides that of Glasgow, which
survived the Reformation. It stands on the
east side of the town, which it dignifies by its
stately and ancient appearance, arid is said to
have been founded by Reginald, Count of Ork-
ney, in the year 1138, though there is no evi-
dence to prove such an antiquity. It is never-
theless probable that it was erected in the
twelfth century, as it was in that epoch that the
bishops of Orkney began to have a fixed resi-
dence in their diocess. It is certain it was
not all completed at once, as some of the later
bishops made additions to what was previously
erected. As it now stands, the length of the
fabric outside is 226 feet ; its breadth fifty-six ;
the height of the main roof seventy-one ; and
from the level of the floor to the top of the
steeple 133 feet. The roof is supported by a
row of fourteen pillars on each side, besides
four, the most magnificent of the whole, which
support the spire. The window in the east is
thirty-six feet high, by twelve broad, including
a circular rose-window at the top, twelve feet
in diameter. There is a window in the west
end somewhat similar, but much smaller ; as
also a rose-window on the south gable of the
cross, of like form and dimensions with that
on the top of the east window. The circum-
ference of the pillars that support the roof is
fifteen feet, and that of those on which the
steeple rests is twenty-four feet nearly. Ed-
ward Stewart, bishop, who died 1538, made an
addition of three pillars and arches in the east
end with a window, which for grandeur and
beauty are far superior to any others in the
edifice. Robert Maxwell, the second bishop
in succession after Stewart, and a son of Sir
John Maxwell of Pollock, highly ornamented
the interior, by building the stalls for the in-
ferior clergy, which were curiously engraven
with the arms of several of his predecessors in
the see ; he also furnished the steeple with a
set of excellent bells, which were cast within
the castle of Edinburgh, by Robert Borthwick,
in 1528, as appears by an inscription on them
to that effect. When James V. visited the
isles in 1536, he was nobly entertained by this
bishop at his own charges ; and at this time
the king was pleased to give the town of Kirk-
wall a confirmation of its royalty. The suc-
ceeding and the last bishop under the Romish
hierarchy, was Robert Reid, a munificent pa-
tron of learning, and the originator of the Uni-
versity of Edinburgh. Having been abbot of
Kinloss in Moray, he is noticed under that
head. This worthy prelate added three pillars
to the west end of the cathedral, which were
never completely finished, and which in point
of elegance are much inferior to the former.
He also adorned the entry by the erection ot a
K I R K WALL.
679
magnificent porch, and, as will be immediately
seen, made some other additions to the esta-
blishment of a beneficent kind. The cathe-
dral is built of red sandstone, and is covered at
present with gray slate. Much to the credit of
the kirk- session, it has been preserved in mo-
dern times from decay, without any expense
to the town or heritors. One end of the
structure has been long used as the parish
church, while the other division is liberally
left open as a promenade for strangers or
others, as is customary in foreign churches.
The sides of the walls near the floor are covered
with monumental slabs, in a slanting position,
the memorials of sea kings, chieftains of note,
and other personages once distinguished in
this remote country, but whose names are now
otherwise completely unknown. Opposite
the cathedral of St. Magnus, on the west side
of the street, stood the king's castle of Kirk-
wall, which time and the ravages of war have
long since laid in ruins. According to the
statist, no tradition remains by whom it was
founded; though it is probable, as Wallace
observes, from a stone placed in the wall next
the street, on which there was seen, in his
time, the figure of a mitre of a bishop and his
arms, that it was built by some bishop of
Orkney. The walls of it are very thick ; the
dimensions large ; and the stones with which
it is Constructed are so firmly cemented to-
gether, that it is more difficidt to dig them
from the rubbish than it would be to cut stones
from the quarry. This fortress seems to have
been in good repair, and a place of no incon-
siderable strength, in the days of the infamous
Patrick Stewart. This man was son of Ro-
bert Stewart, natural son of James V. who,
in 1581, was raised to be Earl of Orkney.
Patrick, who succeeded his father, was a man
of a haughty turn of mind, and being of a cruel
disposition, he committed not only many acts
of rebellion against his sovereign, but many
acts of oppression. In order to screen him-
self from the punishment he justly deserved,
he took refuge in the castle, which he main-
tained with desperate valour for some time
against the king's troops, till it was at last
taken and demolished. On being captured,
he was carried to Edinburgh, and, after trial,
put to death for his crimes. It is mentioned
in " The Histofie and Life of King James
the Sext," printed for the Bannatyne Club,
that " Erie Pate" used to live here in great
pomp ; that he never went from his castle to
the church, nor abroad otherwise, without the
convoy of fifty musqueteers and other gentle-
men as a guard; that at dinner and supper
there were three trumpeters that sounded till
the meat of the first service was set on the
table, did the same at the second service, and
also after the grace. It is likewise mentioned
that from his practice of intercepting pirates,
and collecting tributes of fishermen that
came to these seas, he formed such a collec-
tion of great guns, and other weapons of war,
as that no house, palace, or castle in Scotland
was equally well furnished in that respect. This
same Earl of Orkney built an extensive mansion
of solid but plain masonry on the east side of
the town, known now by the name of the Earl's
palace, and which, from the date above the prin-
cipal door, still legible, appears to have been
erected in 1607. This building, which is only
of two storeys in height, has been uninhabited
since 1688, and is now unroofed and deserted.
Almost adjoining to this stands the much more
interesting and ancient ruin of the Bishop's
palace. Of the origin of this structure both
tradition and record are alike silent. " So
long ago," says the statist of the parish, (the
Rev. George Barry, whose description is among
the best of those in the Statistical Account of
Scotland,) " as 1263, the year in which Haco,
King of Norway, undertook an expedition
against Alexander III. King of Scotland, on
account of a dispute that had arisen about the
Western Isles, it would appear to have been a
place of consequence. This monarch, on re-
turning from the mouth of the Clyde and the
Highlands of Argyleshire, where he had spent
the summer in waging war with the Scots,
with little success, [see our article Hebrides,
p. 535.] resolved to winter in Orkney ; and
for this purpose stationed his ships in the
harbours about the main land, and he himself
took up his quarters in Kirkwall. Here he
kept court in a hall in the Bishop's Palace for
some time, till, worn out with disease, occa-
sioned perhaps by disappointment, and the fa-
tigues of his unsuccessful campaign in the
south, he expired after a lingering illness.
Bishop Reid repaired, we are certain, or,
more properly, rebuilt, several parts of the
Bishop's Palace ; for on more than one place
there are to be seen engraven on stones in the
wall, the first letters of his name, and below
them his arms and mitre. A round tower, on
680
KIRKWALL.
the north west, was raised by him ; and on the
side that looks to the town, there is a small
niche in the wall, occupied, even at present, by
a rude stone statue of that very celebrated pre-
late. Near to this palace, on the west, this
beneficent churchman mortified to the town of
Kirkwall a piece of ground for the purpose of
building a college, for instructing youth in
grammar and the various branches of philoso-
phy, with a very considerable sum of money,
for carrying his pious design into effect. But
his death, which unfortunately happened soon
after, on his returning from France, where he
had been witnessing Queen Mary's marriage
with the Dauphin, prevented any part of this
excellent plan from being carried into execu-
tion." We learn from Keith, that Bishop
Reid, moreover, made a new foundation of the
chapter, enlarging the number of canons, and
settling ample provisions for their maintenance,
although, from the almost immediate abroga-
tion of the Roman Catholic church, such must
be allowed to have scarcely had time to take
effect. In terminating our allusions to this
worthy and now forgotten man, whom we may
not again have occasion to notice in this work,
we may be permitted to say of him, in the Ian-
guage of an epigrammatic poem written by
Adam Elder, a monk of Kinloss, commemo-
rative of his character :
" Quid tentera augusto perstringere carmine laudes,
Quas nulla eloquii vis celebrare queat?
Clavis es eloquio, coelo dignissime prasul,
Antiqua generis nobilitate viges :
* * *
Pauperibus tua tecta patent, tua prompta voluntas,
Atque bonis semper dextera larga tua est.
Nemo lupos melius sacris ob ovilibusarcet,
Ne Christi lanient diripiantve gregem
Ergo pia ob studia, et magna, durosque labores
Ille Deus pacis, det tibi pace frui.
Concedatque tuis succedant omnia votis,
Et bona successus adjuvet aura tuos."
Leaving the foregoing remains of antiquity, a
description of which sheds a glow of romance
over that of a town now dedicated entirely to
purposes of trade, we may resume our notice
of Kirkwall as regards its modern statistics.
Originally created a royal burgh by James III.,
and its charter renewed by James V., as above
noticed, the civic government consists of a
provost, four bailies, a treasurer, dean of guild,
and fifteen councillors, who are elected annu-
ally. The burgh joins with Wick, Dornoch,
Dingwall, and Tain, in sending a member to
parliament. The burgh possesses a town-hall,
which is a building of a good appearance, form-
ing a piazza in front ; the first storey is divided
into apartments for a common prison, the se-
cond for an assembly hall, with a large room
adjoining for courts of justice, and the highest
is set apart as a lodge for freemasons. The
sheriff, commissary, and admiralty courts of
Orkney and Zetland are held in Kirkwall. All
capital crimes are tried before the supreme
courts at Edinburgh, whither offenders are
transmitted. Justice of peace courts are also
held here at short intervals ; as also the courts
of the burgh. Besides the established church,
in the old cathedral, which is superintended by
two clergymen, there is a meeting-house of the
United Associate Synod, and a meeting-house
of Independents. The fast days of the church
are the Thursdays before the last Sunday of
April and November. The town possesses a
grammar school, and some schools on charita-
ble foundations, or instituted by societies. The
inhabitants support a subscription library ; but
some of the upper classes are supplied with
books from the circulating libraries of Edin-
burgh. There is a bookseller in the town who
binds books and keeps a small printing-press.
Some time ago it was the custom more than
now for the shopkeepers of Kirkwall to have
stocks of miscellaneous goods, and of the most
opposite kind, but such a practice is wearing out
or nearly abandoned, and there are now various
shops with suitable assortments of articles be-
longing to a special profession. By Piggot's
Directory, of 1826, there appear to have then
been about fifty resident gentry and clergy, four
agents to Lloyds, three blacksmiths, fourteen
boot and shoemakers, two brewers, one baker,
one builder, one bookseller, one cooper, one
dyer, two distillers, four earthenware dealers,
three fieshers, two grocers and spirit-dealers,
one straw-plait maker, six tailors, nine vint-
ners, three watch and clock-makers, two wheel-
wrights, five wrights, eight writers, besides
others in less important businesses. Branches
of the Commercial and National Banks are set-
tled in the place. The gradual establishment of
regular merchants and tradesmen in this distant
town is understood to have injured the " Kirk-
wall fair," a market of great antiquity, and not-
ed for the variety and extent of the traffic in-
duced by it. This fair is held on the first
Tuesday after the 11th of August, and conti-
nues that week and the following. Like the
fair of Leipsic, to which alone it can be com-
pared, it is attended by merchants and pur-
KIRRIEMUIR.
681
chasers from a very great distance, and into
the brief period in which it is held, a great
proportion of the commerce of these northern
islands is, as it were, concentrated. Dealers
in cambrics, and printed calicoes, and muslins,
from Glasgow and " the manufacturing dis-
tricts," cloth and hard-ware merchants, book-
sellers, and other tradesmen, all arrive with
stocks of their respective goods by the packets
from Leith or other ports, and the stranger
should not even be surprised in discovering at
the fair, a dealer in trinkets or jewellery from
Hamburg, in the shape of a Jew, with a white
beard, party-coloured garments, and a pair of
yellow boots: While the market lasts, there
is a prodigious stir and concourse of people in
Kirkwall, for it is at this time that the fishers,
kelp-makers, and other dealers in raw or native
produce in the islands exchange their goods for
money or articles of comfort and luxury. As
we have just said, the settlement of regular
tradesmen in Kirkwall, if not also in some
other places in Orkney, has somewhat derang-
ed the traffic carried on at the fair ; and we are
oound to suppose that this great market must
have either already received or will shortly re-
ceive, a most severe blow through the reduc-
tion of duties on foreign barilla, whereby kelp,
which for about sixty years has been a staple
article of manufacture in Orkney, and the
means of subsistence to thousands, will be no
longer purchased for transmission to the south ;
at least, not on the scale it has hitherto been.
The situation of Kirkwall well adapts it for
the resort of shipping. The outer bay road-
stead in front affords safe anchorage, and the
harbour close on the town is excellent, having
been made safe by means of two new piers.
The port, however, does not lie so con-
veniently for ships proceeding to or from
North America as Stromness. It is a general
belief that living is much cheaper in Kirkwall
than in most places m Scotland, but it seems
this is not so much the case as is supposed.
If some articles be cheap, others are consider-
ably dearer : all the coal used has to be im-
ported, chiefly from Newcastle ; bread made
from wheat flour is bad and exceedingly dear,
and all grocery goods are likewise high-priced.
Kirkwall has a constant intercourse with
Leith, by means of vessels, which sail every
week alternately, and are fitted up for the ac-
commodation of passengers. The mail is brought
(weather permitting) three times a-week from
JJjuna, by a ferry boat.— Population of the
parish of St. Ola, (the landward part of the
united parish,) in 1821, 1034; population of
Kirkwall, 2212. It appears from these returns
that the population of the town has increased
only about 200 in the space of sixty years,
when Dr. Webster made up his popidation
tables.
KIRK-YETHOLM, a small village in
the parish of Yetholm, Roxburghshire; see
Yetholm.
KIRRIEMUIR, a parish in Forfarshire,
consisting of two detached portions, separated
by an intervening part of the parish of Kingol-
drum. The northerly portion is called Glen-
prosen, being the vale of the river Prosen and
its tributary burns ; it is hilly and chiefly
pastoral ; it measures nine miles in length, by
a general breadth of about two and a half;
Clova bounds it on the north, and partly also
on the east, along with Cortachy ; Lentrather
and Glenisla bound it on the west. The
southerly is the main district, and measures
four and a half miles from north to south, by a
breadth nearly of as much ; the Prosen bounds
it partly on the north, and it has Tannadice,
Oathlaw, and Rescobie on the east, a small
part of Forfar with Glammis on the south,
and Airly and Kingoldrum on the west. The
face of the country is various. For about a
mile to the north of the parishes of Glammis
and Forfar it is almost flat. Then it rises
gently about two miles more, forming almost
one continued sloping bank, till within a few
hundred yards of the town of Kirriemuir, which
thus stands nearly in the centre of the south-
erly division, and is separated by a narrow
valley or den about 100 feet deep from the
above bank. To the east and west of the town
it is almost level. The rest of the parish is
beautifully diversified with hills and dales,
rivers, woods, and arable fields. It is now also
embellished with thriving plantations, and is
intersected by roads in all directions. Im-
provements have now brought the district into
a most productive and thriving state. The
chief object of antiquarian interest in the parish
is the ancient castle of Invercarity, which
stands on the small river Carity as it enters
the South Esk, on the north-east boundary of
the southern division of the parish. It is a
huge Gothic edifice in tolerably good repair.
KIRRIEMUIR, a burgh of barony, and a
town of considerable antiquity and size, the
4 s
682
K N A P D A L E.
capital of the above parish, is agreeably situat-
ed near the foot of the braes of Angus, in the
centre of a fertile populous district, at the dis-
tance of five miles north from Glammis, five
miles north-west from Forfar, sixteen' from
Dundee, and fifty- eight from Edinburgh. It
enjoys a very healthy and pleasant situation,
partly on a flat, and partly on an inclined plane,
on the south-west side of a hill of the same
name, along the northern brow of a beautiful
den, through which runs the small river Gairie.
The prospect of the lower part of the town is
bounded by the southern braes of the den ; but
from the higher part is seen almost the whole
vale of Strathmore. The appearance of Kir-
riemuir has been much improved of late years ;
it now is reckoned one of the most thriving
and most industrious towns in the county. For
a considerable time it has been the seat of ex-
tensive manufactures, in the same branch of
osnaburgs and coarse linens for which Dun-
dee is now so celebrated ; and it appears, that
so early as 1792, the value of these sorts of
goods manufactured in one year was L. 38,000.
Since that period, with the exception of fluc-
tuations, the business of weaving linens has
been steadily pursued by the inhabitants. The
town is noted for the excellent fabric of its
cloth, and the ingenuity of its manufactures ;
about 25,000 pieces, consisting of 146 yards
each, were lately said to be manufactured year-
ly. The number of yards of linen stamped in
one year, from November 1819 to November
1820, was 2,376,711. The " Kirnemurians"
are not more noted for their ingenious and
persevering industry than for their intelligence
and general knowledge. Much of their leisure
time is devoted to reading or other means of
improving the mind. They support an excel-
lent news-room, well supplied with London and
provincial newspapers. The town possesses a
very handsomely built parish church, with a neat
spire and clock. There is, besides, an Epis-
copal chapel of good architecture with a spire,
and of a size commensurate with the great body
of individuals of the Episcopal communion in
the town and surrounding district. There are
also meeting-houses of the United Associate
Synod and Independents. There are a variety
of Friendly Societies. Besides the parish
school, there are some private schools, and a
very large Sunday school, which possesses an
extensive and usefid library. The date of the
barony of Kirriemuir is unknown, and it is
29.
OTily certain that the jurisdiction of its bailie
was once extended over a large tract of
country. The barony is under Lord Douglas,
who appoints a bailie. The peace is preserved
by a body of constables, chosen annually. An
excellent weekly market is held on Friday, and
there are four annual fairs. A branch of the
British Linen Company Bank is settled in the
town — Population of the town in 1821, 2150 ;
including the parish, 5066; total, in 1831,
6425.
KIRTA, an islet of the Hebrides, near the
west coast of Lewis.
KIRTLE, a beautiful small river in Dum-
fries-shire, rising in the heights of the parish
of Middlebie, and running in a straggling, but
generally southerly course, along the west side
of the parish of Kirkpatrick- Fleming, and
through the parish of Graitney; it falls into
the Solway Firth, at the place called Kirtle-
Foot. Its banks are, in many places, embel-
lished with plantations, and the scenery through
which it passes is pleasing. The vale of the
Kirtle is a minor dale betwixt Eskdale and
Annandale.
KLETT, a rocky islet, lying about three
miles from the west coast of Sutherland.
KNAPDALE, a district of Argyleshire,
lying betwixt Cantire and Nether Lorn, and,
forming, in reality, the inner extremity of the
peninsula of Cantire. It extends from the neck
of land traversed by the Crinan canal, southward
to the isthmus formed by Loch Tarbert, a
length of twenty miles, by a breadth of from
five to nine miles. On the west coast it is in-
dented by Loch-Swein and Loch-Killisport.
The district is of the usual Argyleshire cha-
racter, and from its diversified appearance of
hill and dale, it derives its name, which is sig-
nificant of a territory so distinguished.
KNAPDALE (NORTH), a parish in the
above division of Argyleshire, disjoined from
the parish of South Knapdale in the year 1734.
It extends twelve miles long and three broad,
and is bounded on the west by the Atlantic.
The parish kirk is near Loch Fyne. The
district is hilly, but the soil for pasturage and
tillage is excellent ; and there is a very great
proportion of arable ground. — Population va
1821, 2545.
KNAPDALE (SOUTH), a parish in
Argyleshire lying south from the above parish ;
extending fifteen miles in length and five and
a half in breadth. It contains 37,000 acres
LADYKIRK.
688
of land ; a small proportion only is arable.
—Population in 1821, 1913.
KNIACK, a rivulet in the parish of Mu-
thil, Perthshire, which joins the Allan a mile
below the bridge of Ardoch.
KNOCKANDO, a parish in Morayshire,
lying on the left bank of the Spey, between
the parish of Rothes on the north and Crom-
dale on the south ; extending ten miles in
length, by two in breadth. The country is
hilly and generally pastoral. During the
great floods in Moray in 1829, the parish of
Knockando suffered severely, twelve cases of
families being rendered destitute by the cala-
mity having occured, and the grounds being
much injured. The burn of Knockando, a
small rivulet, was on this occasion swollen to
a size equal to that of the Spey in its ordinary
state. — Population in 1821, J 414-
KNOCKBA1N, a parish in Ross shire,
formed by the junction, in 1756, of the parishes
of Kilmuir Wester, and Suddy, and lying on
the side of the Black Isle next the Moray
Firth. It extends from six to seven miles in
length, and from five to six in breadth, having
Killearnan on its south-west side. It is in-
dented by the bay of Munlochy, which is pro-
truded from the Moray Firth, and near the
head of this bay stands the church of Knock-
bain. The surface of the country rises gra-
dually from the firth, and is generally fertile,
as well as embellished with plantations. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 1973.
KOOMB, an islet on the north coast of
Sutherlandshire, upon which are the remains
of a chapel and burying-ground.
KYLE, the central district of Ayrshire,
now unconnected with any political or judicial
distinction. It comprehends the land betwixt
the rivers Doon and Irvine, but is divided into
two sections, namely, King's Kyle, lying on
the south, and Kyle Stewart, on the north side
of the river Ayr. It contains twenty-one
parishes — See Ayrshire.
KYPE, a streamlet in Lanarkshire, rising
on the borders of Lesmahago parish, and which,
after separating it from Avendale, falls into
the Aven, a few miles above its confluence with
the Clyde.
LADY-ISLE,an islet in the firth of Clyde,
lying about three miles from the shore, a little
way south of Troon, at the distance of six
miles south-west by south of Irvine, and five
north-north-west of Ayr. Two pillars or bea-
cons are erected upon it to guide the mariners
sailing along the Ayrshire coast into the
Clyde.
LADYKIRK, a parish in Berwickshire,
lying on the north bank of the Tweed between
Hutton on the north-east and Coldstream on the
south-west. On the west side it has the pa-
rishes of Whitsome and Swinton. It extends
about three miles along the margin of the
Tweed, by a breadth inland of from one to two
miles. The district partakes of the usually
rich and beautiful appearance of the Merse.
The parish church of Ladykirk stands near
the Tweed, opposite Norham on the Northum •
brian side of the river, and is remarkable as
one of the few Gothic buildings of the kind
which survived the Reformation. The legend
connected with this church gives it an addition-
al claim to notice. It seems that, when James
the Fourth was crossing the Tweed at the head
of his army by a ford in the neighbourhood,
he suddenly found himself in a situation of
great peril from the violence of the flood, which
had nearly carried him away. In his emer-
gency, he vowed to build a church to the Vir-
gin, in case that she should be so good as de-
liver him. The result was this edifice, which,
being dedicated to " Our Lady," or the Vir-
gin Mary, was denominated Ladykirk, a name
which afterwards extended to the parish, for-
merly designated Upsettlington. The ford it-
self deserves some notice. It was one of the pas-
sages by which the English and Scottish armies
generally invaded the countries of each other,
before the bridge of Berwick, which appears
not to have been erected till the reign of Eli-
zabeth, had its existence. It was, on this ac-
count, a point of resort and conference, and
the adjacent field called Holywell Haugh, was
the place where Edward I. met the Scottish
nobility, to settle the dispute betwixt Bruce
and Baliol to the crown of Scotland. At the
church of Upsettlington, or Ladykirk, in the
684
LAMBHOLM.
reign of Queen Mary, a supplementary treaty
to that of Chateau Cambrensis was settled by
commissioners ; and Norham castle, on the
opposite bank of the river, derived importance
from its commanding this isthmus of conference
between the two kingdoms.— Population in
1821, 527.
LADYKIRK, or LADY PARISH, a
parish occupying the north-eastern limb of the
island of Sanday, Orkney, which besides com-
prehends the united parish of Cross and Bur-
ness. The kirk is situated at the head of a
small bay on the south side of the island. The
district is sufficiently described under the ge-
neral head Sanday. — Population in J 821, 880.
LAGGAN, a parish in the district of
Badenocb, Inverness-shire, extending from
north-east to south-west upwards of twenty
miles. The breadth of the inhabited part is
about three miles; but taking its boundaries
from south to north, it will measure more than
twenty miles. It is bounded by Boleskine on
the north, Kingussie on the east, by the moun-
tains of Perthshire on the south, and by Kil-
manivaig on the west. The boundary on the
north is Monu-liec, or grey mountain, a prodigi-
ous ridge of inaccessible rocks. The river
Spey takes its rise from a very small lake of
the same name in the western parts of the
parish, and is formed by currents falling down
from the mountains. It runs through the
middle of the parish in an easterly direction,
receiving in its progress the river Mashie and
Truim, both having their rise in the Grampi-
ans. The most remarkable natural object of
a beautiful kind, is Loch Laggan, which, with
its environs, forms a district by itself, and lies
on the south-west extremity of the parish. This
lake, which extends about eight miles in length,
by one in breadth, is very deep, with a bold
rocky shore, and surrounded by high woody
mountains. On the south side is the coiU
more or great wood, said to be the most con-
siderable relic of the Caledonian Forest.
This wood, which extends five miles along the
loch side, is the scene of many traditions. The
eastern extremity of the lake is somewhat
picturesque, and the most remarkable feature
is a rocky hill, split by a fissure of great mag-
nitude, and conveying a strong impression of
recent and sudden violence. Along the north
precipitous bank of Loch Laggan, a road has
been cut communicating with the west coast.
The lake is chiefly fed by the river Pattaig at
the east end, and discharges itself at the west-
ern extremity, by the Spean, a tributary of the
Lochy, near Fort- William. The lake pos-
sesses two small islets, named Elan-na-Ri
and Ehn-na-conn, — the island of the king, and
the island of dogs. On the former is the ruin
of some building, traditionally mentioned as
having been a hunting-seat of one of the
ancient Scottish kings, and it was on the other
he is said to have kept his dogs for the chase.
The parish is mountainous and principally
pastoral, yet it contains some fertile lands in
the low grounds, and it is substantiated that
here is found the highest lying cultivated land
in Britain. The vegetable produce is oats,
barley, rye, and potatoes. At the east end of
Loch Laggan stand the remains of an
old church, dedicated to St. Kenneth, sur-
rounded by a burying-ground, which is still
more used than any other. The modern
parish church is at the small village of
Laggan, about four miles to the north-east,
and situated on the left bank of the Spey,
now a large stream. The village lies near to
the gi eat road northward by Dalwhinnie and
Garvamore, about half way between both. A
road from Laggan proceeds north-eastward by
Kingussie down the Spey. The writer of the
Statistical account of the parish was the Rev.
James Grant, minister of the district, whose
wife — Mrs. Grant of Laggan — has been justly
celebrated for her literary attainments.— Po-
pulation in 1821, 1234.
LAIRG, or LARIG, a large parish in
Sutherlandshire, bounded by Farr on the north,
Edderachylis on the west, Criech on the south,
and Rogart on the east. Its extreme length
is about twenty-four miles, by a breadth of
eight and upwards. Like the rest of Suther-
landshire, it is quite a mountainous pastoral
district, and is for a great part the basin of
Loch Shin, a large fresh water lake, lying in
the direction of north-west and south-east, and
whose waters are emitted into (he Dornoch
Firth. The great road across Sutherlandshire
proceeds through the parish, along the north side
of this lake. There are a few small lakes also
in the parish. The kirk of Lairg is at the foot
of Loch Shin — Population in 1821, 1094.
LAMBA, an uninhabited islet of Shet-
land, on the north-east coast of the mainland,
in the parish of Northmaven.
LAMBHOLM, an islet of the Orkneys,
situated in Holm Sound, of three miles in
LANARKSHIRE.
683
circumference, and containing a very few in-
habitants.
LAMBERTON, a parish in Berwickshire,
now incorporated with Mordington — See
MoRDINGTON.
LAMINGTON, a parish in the upper
ward of Lanarkshire, lying on the right or
south-east bank of the Clyde, along which it
extends nine miles, having a breadth, at most,
of four miles ; bounded by Wiston and Sym-
ington on the north, Crawford-John on the
west, Crawford on the south, and Culter on
the east. The parish is hilly and mostly pas-
toral or of an upland character, with fine
haughs and arable lands adjacent to the Clyde.
The present parish comprehends the two old
parishes of Lamington and Hartside, or Wan-
del, which were united in the seventeenth cen-
tury. The old parish and district of Laming-
ton obtained its name from a Flemish settler,
who was called Lambin, and who obtained a
grant of this territory, during the reign of
David I. and gave the place where he settled
the name of Lambinstoun. James, a son of
this Lambin, obtained from Richard Morvile,
the constable of Scotland, a grant of the ter-
ritory of Loudon in Ayrshire, and was the
progenitor of the family of Loudon, The
barony of Lambinstoun passed, during the
reign of David II. into the possession of Sir
William Baillie, who obtained a charter of it
from that king, on the 27th January, 1367-8.
His descendants still possess the property.
The account of this family in the Appendix
to Nisbet's Heraldry, ii. 136, states that Sir
William Wallace acquired the estate of Lam-
ington, by marrying the heiress of a family,
wnich was sumamed Braidfoot ; and that Sir
William Baillie obtained it by marrying the
eldest daughter and heiress of William. This
statement, though agreeable to common tra-
dition, is unsupported by any recorded autho-
rity; and, according to George Chalmers, is
certainly erroneous ; Sir William Wallace left
no legitimate issue, but he left a natural
daughter, who is said to have married Sir
William Baillie of Hoperig, the progenitor of
the Baillies of Lamington. Upon the south
bank of the Clyde, near the little parish town,
stands the tall and sheltered ruin of Laming-
ton tower, the seat of this ancient family.
The hill of Tinto overlooks the tower of
Lamington on the north. The village of Lam-
ington is small; it is situated on the road
which traverses Clydesdale.— Population in
1821, 359
LAMLASH, a land-locked bay on the
south-east side of the island of Arran, very suit-
able for the reception of vessels driven by
stress of weather from the Irish Channel. It
is protected by a high rocky islet, called Holy
Island, from the sea. The loch, as it is call-
ed, is spacious and beautiful, though its banks
are bare of wood, and the general aspect of
the scenery is wild. On the inner side of
the bay is the small village of Lamlash, at
which there is an inn.
LAMMERMOOR, or LAMMER-
MUIR, a mountainous range of brown pas-
toral hills, belonging to Berwickshire. — See
Berwickshire, p. 92.
LANARKSHIRE, a large, populous, and
important county in the western part of the
Lowlands, or south division of Scotland, bound-
ed by Dumfries-shire on the south, Ayrshire
and Renfrewshire on the west, Dumbarton
and Stirlingshire on the north, and Linlithgow,
Edinburgh, and Peebles-shire on the east.
It lies between 55° 18' 40", and 55° 56' north
latitude. Its extreme length from south-south-
east, to north-north-west, is fifty-four miles,
and the greatest breadth in the middle is thirty-
two miles ; but it becomes narrower towards
the extremities, even to less than ten miles.
The superficial contents are 927 square miles,
or 593,280 English acres. At an early period
this extensive district was for convenience di-
vided into two wards, called the over ward and
nether ward ; Lanark being the chief town and
seat of justice of the former, and Rutherglen
of the latter. This arrangement was alter-
ed during the last century, when the county
was divided into three wards, namely, the up-
per, middle, and lower wards ; the chief
towns being Lanark, Hamilton, and Glasgow,
at each of which there is a sheriff-substitute
stationed. The central part of the county
throughout is termed Clydesdale, or the vale of
Clyde, from being the basin of that beautiful
and useful river. Before entering on a des-
cription of the natural products, and the agri-
cultural and mercantile peculiarities of the
shire, it may be proper to say a few words
upon the history of the district : Under the
heads Dumbarton and Glasgow, some slight
notices of the ancient kingdom of Strath Clyde
have been given ; and it is now our duty to
present a connected historical outline of that
686'
LANARKSHIRE.
British kingdom. The district of country
known as the vale of Clyde, with its minor
vales, at the time at which Roman writers de-
scribed North Britain, was inhabited by the
British tribe, called by them the Damnii, a
people who designated their territory y-strad-
clur/d, a compound name signifying the warm
vale or strath. Of these hardy Britons or
Celts, there are numerous remains in the dis-
trict, as circular walls and fosses, sepulchral
tumuli, and memorial stones of a warlike
nature. The Damnii yielded to the Roman
yoke towards the end of the first century, and
the country became a part of the province of
Valentia. The Romans secured this, like
other possessions, by roads and camps, the re-
mains of which, in different parishes, have en-
gaged the attention of the topographers. The
recession of the Romans — see Edinburgh-
shire — in the fourth century left the inhabi-
tants to re-form their original kingdom. From
this period, arose a powerful demi- savage race,
who held in thrall some adjacent districts ; and
a few centuries later we find the kingdom of
Strath- Clyde involving within its limits Liddis-
dale, Tiviotdale, Dumfries-shire, all Galloway,
Ayrshire, Renfrewshire, Strath- Clyde proper,
part of Peebles-shire, the western part of
Stirlingshire, and the greater part of Dum-
bartonshire ; from which it seems to have
been a kingdom, including nearly the whole
of Scotland south of the Forth, with the ex-
ception of ancient Lothian, which was in-
habited by Ottadini, and afterwards by Sax-
ons. Within this ample territory there were
subordinate tribes, some of whom are no-
ticed in this work, as occasion requires, by
the name of Selgovse, Attacotti, &c. It is un-
derstood that the capital of the Strath- Clyde
Britons was at Dumbarton, which was at a most
important pass into their kingdom from the
west ; but with regard to this and other matters
relative to their political condition, great
obscurity prevails. This barbarous people
were frequently attacked by the Picts, from
the northern side of the Forth, by the Scoto-
Irish from Cantire, by the Saxons of Northum-
bria, and by the Cruithne of Ulster. At
the death of Bede in 735, the Strath- Clyde
Britons retained their beloved possessions in
spite of all attacks, but, soon after, they began
to decline in power from the union of the Pic-
tish and Saxon forces, and their metropolis
was taken in 756. It is most probable that,
after the political union of the Picts and Scots
in 844, through the intrepidity of Kenneth, all
show of a separate kingdom in Strath Clyde was
gone ; and soon after this period, it is likely that
the petty chiefs or reguli were gradually over-
powered, while their laws and usages melted
away before those of a Scottish sovereign. The
descendants of the Damnii seem to have deeply
grieved the loss of their rude independence, and
emigrated rather than submit to foreigners.
Mournfully leaving the graves of their fathers,
the first human beings who had roved through
the forests of the west, they slowly departed
from the warm vale, and pursuing a southerly
course, crossed the Solway and the Mersey,
and finally found a resting-place amidst a con-
genial race among the hills and dales of Wales.
The less adventurous Strath- Clyde Britons re-
mained, and, by the encroachments of different
races of Anglo-Saxons, Anglo-Normans, Gae-
lic-Scots, and Galloway, or Half-Irishmen,
they were soon lost as a distinct people. * The
extinction of the Saxon power, north of the
Tweed, in 1020 — again see Edinburghshire
— consolidated for the first time the Scottish
dynasty, and levelled many trifling distinctions
among the inhabitants of the country. Be-
sides the above classes of foreigners who were
introduced into the district of Strathclyde, we
may here remark, what is well worthy of ob-
servation, that a number of Flemish families
of consideration settled in Clydesdale in the
twelfth century, not a few of whom received
grants of land from the abbots of Kelso, who
had large possessions in this quarter. Of these
families none became afterwards so distinguish-
ed as the Douglasses, who have no higher
an origin than a Flemish church vassal, al-
though such is now attempted to be refuted.
Lanarkshire was allowed to progress in civili-
zation and rural wealth, with some brief inter-
vals of war and waste, till the period of the
national troubles consequent on the demise of
Alexander III. Now
" followed the dayis,
Quen was gud Willeyham Walays,"
whose first exploit was to expel the English
from the town of Lanark. We need not tell
* Yet one of the editors of this work has been inform-
ed by a Welchman, well qualified to judge, namely, the
Rev. Mr. Williams, of the Edinburgh Academy, and
author of the Life of Alexander the Great, that the
peasantry of Clydesdale at this day bear a strong resem-
blance, not only in features, but even in some points of
cosU-ime, to the modern Welsh.
LANARKSHIRE.
687
our readers that throughout the arduous strug-
gle which followed for Scottish independence,
Lanarkshire was the theatre of many miseries
and military disturbances. Under the reign
of James I., and the regency of Robert, Duke
of Albany, a portion of Lanarkshire was cut
off from the body of the county, and was form-
ed into the distinct sheriffdom of Renfrew.
At a subsequent date, the ambition and turbu-
lence of the Douglasses, with the intrigues of
the first Lord Hamilton, involved Lanarkshire
in the various miseries of civil war. The fall
of the house of Douglas, 1 455, was followed
by an instantaneous herrying of the family pos-
sessions. " In March 1455," says Gray's
Chronicle, " James the second cast doune the
castel of Inveravyne ; and syne incontinent past
till Glasgow, and gaderit the westland men,
with part of the Areschery [Irish], and passit
to Lanerick, and to Douglas, and syne brynt
all Douglasdale, and all Avendale, and all the
Lord Hammiltounis lands, and herrit them
clerlye ; and syne passit to Edinburgh, and fra
them till the forest, with ane host of lawland
men," &c. Such were the devastations sus-
tained by the district on the rebellion of its
principal baron. From this period till the
comparatively recent epoch of the latter part
of the seventeenth century, Lanarkshire does
not make any remarkable figure in history. It
then became the scene of a thirty years' civil
war, carried on by Charles II. against the
more zealous presbyterians of this district, every
particular of which must be already known to
the readers of Scottish history. During this
unhappy period, the country suffered severely
by military execution, but the Revolution of
1688 brought it once more peaceful times, and
it has ever since advanced in wealth and every
species of improvement. To return to the
physical character of Lanarkshire : The upper
division of the county is very mountainous,
one of the Lowther hills rising to a height of
2450 feet above the level of the sea. Next in
height is Culter Fell ; and Tinto, the loftiest
hill on the frontier of the mountain district, is
2236 feet above the sea level. From Tinto,
looking northward, the face of the country is
softened down to gentle elevations and gradual
depressions. The upper ward, which may
be deemed three-fifths of the county, is
mostly hilly and moorish; and from the na-
ture of the soil, and the elevation of the sur-
face, cannot be deemed capable of much agri-
cultural improvement. At the commence-
ment of the middle ward, the elevation of the
land is considerably diminished, while the de-
clivity continues to fall towards the north-
west. The surface is everywhere diversified
by frequent inequalities, so as to leave no
level space except the valleys along the river.
The height of the middle ward may be re-
garded as from 250 to 800 feet above the level
of the sea ; and though reckoned a good agri-
cultural district, it comprises 42,000 acres of
moss, nearly a third of the whole. The
lower ward is of very limited extent, and de-
rives its importance from being the seat of a
most abundant population. The county al-
most everywhere abounds in coal. Sand-
stone and whinstone are equally prevalent.
Lime lies in the same tract of country as
the sandstone. In the mountainous region
at the head of Clydesdale, lead has been
long wrought to advantage. Ironstone is also
wrought in the shire. The mines of different
descriptions lately yielded, on the whole ope-
rations, an annual revenue of L. 222, 900. The
waters of Lanarkshire may be described in
brief terms. The county is watered and beau-
tified by the Clyde throughout, and this river
receives on either side a great variety of
streams, nearly the whole being of extensive
use in application to the machinery of mills.
The principal tributaries within the shire,
are the Douglas Water, the Mouse, the
Nethan, the Aven, the Calder, the North
Calder, and the Kelvin. A very complete
account of the Clyde, its extent, and pro-
perties, will be found under the article
Clyde. Those who search deeply into the
ancient history of Clydesdale, have reason for
believing that the district was once much warmer
that it is at present. The old British poets
sing of the delicious summer heats of their
native vale ; and Merthyn, one of their most
distinguished bards, mentions with feelings of
regret the orchards of Cluyd. We might be
inclined to suggest that the fancies of these
remote minstrels perhaps blinded them to the
truth, had we not sufficient evidence of the
former temperateness of the climate in the re-
mains of cultivation upon hills now suitable
only to pasturage. The climate of Lanark-
shire is now moist and cold, a circumstance
attributable to the proximity of the western
seas, and to the very extensive masses of wet
peat earth, which shed an unhappy influence
688
LANARKSHIRE.
over the arable soil. Within the more shelt-
ered and sunny vale through which the Clyde
pursues its course, the climate is often much
warmer, and in such cases such is the dif-
ference of atmosphere, that while the wind
blows with a keen blast over the waste moors
of the exposed country, at a very short dis-
tance, within the protection of the banks of
the river, the air has all the genial mildness of
an Italian summer. The commencement of
improvements in soil and cultivation in this
division of Scotland, is said to have taken place
about the year 1758. From this period may
be dated a series of meliorations, by draining,
planting, and enclosing, equal in amount to
such in other improved districts. Wheat, a
still greater quantity of oats, and some barley,
are in various proportions sown in different
soils, in the county. Some flax is grown,
which is spun by the women, who sell the
yarn in the markets of Lanark, Carnwath,
Biggar, and others. Potatoes are universally
planted in great quantities. Turnips are sown
pretty generally. Artificial grasses are every-
where in use. Gardens and orchards were of
early use in Clydesdale, and in the present
day the banks of the river are embellished by
fruit-trees of the most luxuriant growth. The
orchards consist chiefly of apple, pear, and
plum trees, and cover altogether about 300
acres. The products are very numerous, and
in fortunate years the whole produce has been
valued at L.2000. The manufactures of
Glasgow being treated of at length under that
head, we do not require here to specify the
trading statistics of the shire. It needs only
be mentioned, that the cotton goods for which
that city is celebrated, are to a great extent
woven in different villages in the county, and
that this branch alone yields support to a very
large proportion of the inhabitants. Lanarkshire
contains three royal burghs, Glasgow, Ruther-
glen, and Lanark, and a variety of consider-
able villages, as Hamilton, Douglas, Biggar,
Strathaven, Carnwath, Bothwell, Airdrie,
Lesmahago, &c. Including the city parishes
of Glasgow, the shire comprises nearly fifty
parishes, which form four presbyteries in the
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The valued rent
of the shire in 1814 was, for land, L.298,019,
and for houses, L.286,071. The increase of
the population of Lanarkshire since the middle
of the last century is very conspicuous. In
1755 it was 81,781; in 1791, 126,354; in
1801, 150, 690; in 1811, 192,097; and in
1821, 244,766, of which 115,385 were males,
and 129,002 females.
LANARK, a parish in the above county,
lying on the right or east bank of the Clyde,
along which it stretches from four to five miles,
by a breadth of three miles ; bounded by Car-
luke on the north, Carstairs on the east, Car-
michael on the south, and Lesmahago, on the
opposite side of the Clyde, on the west. Th
greater part of the parish consists of flat or un-
dulating land, generally suitable to agriculture,
but in some places moorish. In modern times
the district has been greatly improved by plan-
tations, enclosures, draining, &c The Mouse
water, tributary to the Clyde, runs through the
parish, cutting it into two nearly equal divi-
sions. The chief objects of interest in the
district are noticed in the following article.
Lanark, a royal burgh, the capital of the
above parish and county, to which it has given
a name, and the seat of a presbytery, is situated
on an elevated piece of ground half a mile from
the right bank of the Clyde, at the distance of
32 miles west from Edinburgh, 25 south-east
of Glasgow, and 15 from Hamilton. Lanark
is one of the most ancient towns in Scotland.
It is understood to have been a seat of popula-
tion in those early times when the British re-
mained undisputed masters of the territory, and
from them received the appellation it has
maintained through a succession of dynasties
and changes of language; The word Lanark
is a favourite object of philological dispute
among antiquaries, and has been by them tor-
tured into the most strange significations. It
is, we think, with good evidence derived from
Llanerch, or Lanerch, signifying a green, a bare
or open place ; in a word, a glade, a paddock,
and with one or other such meanings is attach-
ed to different names in Scotland and Wales.
Merthyn, the ancient British bard, in his poem
of the " Afallenau," or apple-trees, thus men-
tions the place, —
'* Afallen berena dyf yn TJanvrrch,
Angerdd oi hargel rhag rhieu Rhydderch."
A sweet apple-tree doth grow in Lanerch,
Potent its shade against the chiefs of Rhydderch.
In several charters of Robert I., David II.,
Robert II., and Robert III., the county and
town are called Lanerk, and George Chalmers
throughout pertinaciously adheres to such an
orthography, although fashion, accident, orde-
LANARK.
(589
sign has for ages induced the general adoption
of Lanark. The town is said to have received
a charter of burgal privileges from Alexander
I., and it is certain that it was a royal town as
early at least as Malcolm IV. (1153-65), who,
in granting a toft in the place, says it is " in
meo burgo." It is exceedingly probable that at
this and a later period Lanark was chosen as a
royal residence, as there was at one period a
castle or fortification on an eminence south
from the town, which has been for a long pe-
riod demolished, and so cleared away as to leave
a site for a bowling green.* Whether from
its possession of this castle or the importance
of the station, the English under Edward se-
cured Lanark, and according to Blind Harry,
it was the fate of Sir William Wallace to re-
side in it with his bride, when the insolence of
the English sheriff compelled the patriot to
deal that personage such a blow as proved his
death. Tradition points out a house, now an
inn, at the head of the Castle-gate, opposite to
the parish church, as occupying the site of
that which was possessed by Wallace at the
period of this incident. He fied from his
house to a cave in the Cartland Crags, about
a mile off, and only emerged from that conceal-
ment to spread terror and destruction amongst
all who bore the English name in Scotland.
Miss Porter, previous to the publication of her
work entitled " The Scottish Chiefs," visited
this and other scenes in the neighbourhood of
Lanark, sanctified by the name of Wallace.
The consequence of Lanark will be supposed
to have increased by the establishment of a
monastery of Franciscan or Grey friars in the
year 1314. Besides this institution, there was
a chapel within the burgh dedicated to St. Ni-
cholas, which had four altars, one of which was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was called
" Our Lady's Altar ;" another, which was
consecrated to the holy blood of Christ, was
called " The Haly Bluid Altar : " a third was
dedicated to St. Michael, and a fourth to St.
Catherine. This chapel and its different al-
tars were well endowed. At a spot about half
a mile east from the town, there was a chapel
dedicated to St. Leonard, with an hospital.
We are not aware of the date of this establish-
ment, but we learn that it was exceedingly well
* By a strange coincidence, there are a number of
towns in Scotland which have bowling-greens on the ex-
act sites of old castles. Among others we may instance
those of Inverness and Peebles.
endowed with lands, and that in 1393 Sir
John Dalziel obtained of Robert III. a gift of
the whole revenue belonging to St. Leonards,
within the town of Lanark, upon condition that
he and his heirs should cause say three masses
every week " pro salute Domini Ret/is et Anna-
bellce Rcgina? proliumque eorumJ" The chapel-
ry, however, as it would appear, was still well
sustained by lands in the district, which con-
stituted a species of independent parochial di-
vision. By an act of parliament, in 1 409, St.
Leonard's kirk was united to the parish of
Lanark. The old parish church of Lanark
was dedicated to Kentigern or Mungo, and
with its tithes and pertinents was granted by
David I. in 11 50 to the monastery which he
then founded at Dryburgh, with the monks of
which place it continued till the Reformation.
At Clegorn, or Cleghorn, in the parish of Lanark,
there was a chapel in the twelfth century, and
at East Nemphlar, or, as it was once called,
Nenfelar, the templars had some lands, and a
chapel, the ruin of which is still extant, nearly
a mile and a half north-west from Lanark.
The number and variety of religious estab-
lishments at one period in and about Lan-
ark, must certainly have added considerably to
its importance, and no doubt to its wealth.
At the Reformation, all the different charter-
grants, tithes, patronages, and land and proper-
ty of every description, were seized by, or giv-
en to, lay nobility and gentry, whose descend-
ants still enjoy them-s-almost no spot in Scot-
land having offered so much ready unpro-
tected prey of this character. The old parish
church, which stood at the distance of a quar-
ter of a mile eastward from the town, has been
deserted upwards of fifty years, and is now
hurrying fast to decay. It has been of Gothic
architecture, although never a fine building.
It is said, that it was here, at public worship,
that the Scottish hero, Wallace, first saw his
wife. The church-yard around contains the
grave of William Lithgow, the celebrated tra-
veller of the reign of James VI., a strange
compound of good sense, fanaticism, impu-
dence, and pedantry, to which this parish had
the honour of giving birth. Lithgow travelled
over a great part of Europe and Asia, and
came home miserably maimed and disfigured
by the Inquisitors of Spain, whom he pro-
voked by his insufferable boldness in regard
to their religion. He settled in his native
parish, where, till his death, he was known, as
4 T
690
LANARK.
he is now popularly remembered, by the name
of Lugless Willie Lithgow. He left children
and other relations, whose representatives are
still in the place. Lanark has had the honour
of giving birth to more than one man of note.
The most distinguished, and we may now be
permitted to say, the most infamous, was the
late Lord Justice- Clerk Braxfield, whose
brutality on the bench will not soon be forgot-
ten in Scotland. Many good scholars, more-
over, have been produced at its school, which,
for more than fifty years during the last cen-
tury, was conducted by Mr. Robert Thomson,
brother-in-law to the author of the Seasons, a
man of talents, and of great assiduity and suc-
cess in his profession. The wife of this gen-
tleman, displaying an activity and spirit very
different from her illustrious brother, is said to
have been peculiarly well qualified for her si-
tuation as matron of a large boarding-school.
The town of Lanark, of which it is now time
to say something, consists of one main street,
5n the direction of east and west. At the
eastern extremity it branches into two thorough-
fares, one leading to Edinburgh, and another
to Hyndford Bridge. On the west it leads to
the Clyde. Near the centre of the town
stands the modern parish church, and at the
corner of an adjacent lane caUed the Wellgate,
leading to the south, is the town and county
jail. From near this spot there are other two
minor thoroughfares branching towards the
river. The streets are well paved, but a great
number of the houses are still very mean in
appearance, being thatched with broom, heath,
or straw, and exhibiting on the whole, the
spectacle of a decayed Scottish burgh, desert-
ed by trade, and injured by the distractions of
local politics and petty interests. As a royal
burgh, whose charters were finally confirmed
by Charles I. in 1632, it is governed by a pro-
vost, two bailies, a dean of guild, thirteen mer-
chant councillors, and seven deacons of trades ;
and unites with Linlithgow, Selkirk, and
Peebles in sending a member to parliament.
Besides the established church there is a Re-
lief and Secession Meeting- House. Almost
the only trade in Lanark is weaving, which en-
gages a number of men in the employment
of Glasgow manufacturers. In the neighbour-
hood, higher up the Clyde, stand the cotton-
mills and town of New-Lanark, noticed in
next article. Lanark is much better known
from the romantic beauty of the fills of the
29.
Clyde in its vicinity, and some other scenery
in its neighbourhood, than from any tiling else.
In the environs of the town there are many
handsome seats, among which, Carstairs, the
seat of Mr. Monteith, seems to be considered
the most splendid. But these objects fail to
interest the tourist in comparison with the
celebrated falls. Of these two are above, and
one below, the town. The uppermost is
Bonniton Linn, a cascade of about thirty feet.
The next below is Corra Linn, where the wa-
ter takes three distinct leaps, each apparently
as high as that of Bonniton, The third fall
occurs at Stonebyres, about two miles below
the town of Lanark. These falls are individ-
ually described under the article Clyde. He
who traverses this district for pleasure, or for
the indulgence of sentiment and association,
will visit Cartland Crags. This is a deep
chasm, supposed to have been formed by an
earthquake, through which the Mouse Water
(remarkable a little farther up for Roman an-
tiquities on its banks) seeks its way to the
Clyde, instead of following a more natural chan-
nel, which every body seems to think it should
have followed, a little farther to the east. A
bridge of three arches was thrown, in the year
1825, across the narrow profound ; its two
piers, being at least a hundred feet high, while
the whole length is little more, the building
has an exceedingly striking effect. At a little
distance below may be seen one of those nar-
row old bridges, with an arch precisely semi-
circular, supposed to be of Roman structure.
In the western face of the chasm of the Cartland
Crags, a few yards above the new bridge, a
small slit in the rock is pointed out by tradi-
tion as having been the hiding-place of Wal-
lace after he had slain Hesilrig. It is still
termed Wallace's Cave. Still farther to the
north-west, about three miles from the town,
and within the verge of the parish, is the Lee,
the patrimonial estate of the family of Lock-
hart, so distinguished during the seventeenth
century for their eminence in the Scottish
Courts of Law. Lee House is a very fine
mansion, lately modernized in the castellated
style. It contains many good portraits, as
well as a singular curiosity, or object of super-
stition, called the Lee ■penny, a talisman of
eastern origin, which it is said was brought
from Palestine in the fourteenth century by
Simon Locard, ancestor of the present fa-
mily, and possesses medicinal virtues similar
L A N G II O L M.
691
(o those detailed as belonging to " the Ta-
lisman," in the tale of that name, by the
author of Waverley. Being now visited by
an incredible number of persons, whose cu-
riosity has been excited respecting it, Sir
Charles M'Donald Lockhart, the present pro-
prietor, has recently adopted the idea of keep-
ing an album in which their names are record-
ed. The environs of the Lee comprise a re-
markable natural curiosity in the shape of a
large oak tree, which having become rotten
through age, can hold in its hollow inside half
a dozen individuals standing upright. It is
called the Pease Tree. — Population of the
burgh and parish, including New Lanark, in
1821, 7085.
LANARK, (NEW), a series of cotton
factories and houses, in the parish of Lanark,
occupying a secluded situation on the right
bank of the Clyde, about a mile above the
foregoing town of Lanark. This extensive
manufacturing establishment was first insti-
tuted in the year 1783, by Mr. David Dale, a
man whose character is said to have been
marked by almost Quixotic benevolence. It
is now in the possession of a company which
owns for its head the son-in-law of Mr.
Dale, Mr. Robert Owen, so remarkable for
his notions regarding the domestic polity
of mankind. The village may be described
as a series of huge square buildings con-
nected with one or two streets of inferior
magnitude, and stretching along the north or
right bank of the river, which here rises so
abruptly and so near the' stream as only to al-
low room for two lines of edifices. The large
buildings are cotton-mills, and the inferior
streets contain the residences of the persons
employed in them, amounting, it is said, to
about two thousand. " The first mill," says
a contemporary, " was begun in 1 785, and a
subterraneous passage was formed through a
rocky hill, nearly one hundred yards in length,
for the purpose of an aqueduct. In 1788, a
second one was built, and was nearly roofed
in, when the first one was totally consumed by
an accidental fire, but was again rebuilt in the
ensuing year ; and the proprietor afterwards
erected other two, the machinery of which is
driven by the water brought in the same aque-
duct. These mills have from 20,000 to
30,000 spindles, and spin from 10 to 12
tons of cotton wool weekly. In them fourteen
hundred people, including women and children,
are employed. The greatest attention is paid
to cleanliness, and there is a public washing
house and bleaching green." The communi-
ty is of a singular description. No person is
admitted into it except as connected with the
manufactory. The inhabitants are a peculiar
people, speak with an accent of their own, and
dress themselves better on Sunday than their
neighbours of the same rank. They are said
to live harmoniously, and even to exhibit a
considerable degree of esprit-de-corps. They
are supplied with clothes and other necessaries
by the proprietors of the works ; who very pro-
perly devote the profits arising from this branch
of business to the education of the children,
none of whom are permitted to engage in la-
bour till the age of ten. Mr. Owen has paid
very considerable attention to the education of
the children of this establishment, and has with
praiseworthy, though perhaps, misdirected phi-
lanthropy, tried a number of plans to train up
youth in novel principles, the success of which
can only be substantiated by time. The manu-
factory of New Lanark, and the schools which
are there established, are now interesting ob-
jects of curiosity to all tourists, and strangers
would do well not to leave this part of the
country without paying them a visit.
LANGHOLM, a parish in the district of
Eskdale, Dumfrieshire, bounded on the north by
Westerkirk and Ewes, on the east by Ewes
and Cannoby, on the south also by Cannoby,
and on the west by Middlebie and Tunder-
garth. At the south-west corner it is touched
by the district of Halfmorton, which is eccle-
siastically joined to it. It contains, exclusive of
Halfmorton, about 14,320 acres, of which by
far the greater part belongs to the Duke of
Buccleugh. This parish is hilly and chiefly
pastoral, and may be described as comprising
several miles of the vale of the Esk, which
pursues a southerly course through it, and the
inferior vale of Wauchope water, a tributary
of that river on its western bank. The
country here is exceedingly beautiful, the low
grounds being well cultivated and sheltered by
the most umbrageous green woods or planta-
tions, the whole having a pleasing sylvan ef-
fect
LANGHOLM, a thriving small town of
modem growth in the above parish, and the
seat of a presbytery, situated on the left or
east bank of the Esk, at the distance of twenty-
one miles from Carlisle, twelve from Long-
6D2
L A N G T O N.
town, eighteen from Annan, thirty from Dum-
fries, and twenty-three from Hawick. The
town owes its origin to a border-house or
tower, which was formerly the property of the
all-powerful Armstrongs, but is now only seen
in a state of ruin. The curious stranger may
also see here a place where several witches
suffered in the century before the last. The
witches of Eskdale are said to have played
pranks beyond all example in the history of
female necromancy. Some of them were mid-
wives, and had the power of transferring part
of the primeval curse bestowed upon our first
mother from the gudewife to her husband ; so
that the former underwent the actual process
of labour without the least uneasiness, all the
while that the gudeman was roaring with agony
in his uncouth and unnatural pains ! Lang-
holm was long famed for a curious iron in-
strument, " called the Branks," which, fitted
upon the head of a shrewish female, and
projecting a sharp spike into her mouth,
fairly subdued the more dreadful weapon
within. It was formerly customary for hus-
bands who were afflicted with scolding wives,
to subject their heads to this instrument, and
lead them through the town exposed to the
eyes and ridicule of all the people ; and tradi-
tion records, that the discipline was rarely un-
productive of a complete reformation. A si-
milar way of taming shrews formerly prevailed,
it seems, in Staffordshire ; and Dr. Plot, the
quaint old historian of that county, sagely ob-
serves, that he looks upon it " as much to be
preferred to the ducking-stool, which not only
endangers the health of the patient, but also
gives the tongue liberty betwixt every dip ; to
neither of which disadvantages this is at all
lyable." " Eskdale," says the author of the
Picture of Scotland, " derives a more than com-
mon charm from the memory of Johnie Arm-
strong, whose name is associated with many
of its localities." His tower of Gilnockie still
stands, — though converted into a cow-house, —
a few miles below Langholm, on the left bank
of the Esk. It was on " Langholm Holm,"
that, when going to meet the king, he and his
" gallant companie" of thirty-six men, " ran
their horse and brak their spears ;" when, to
pursue the picturesque language of the ballad,
The ladies lookit frac their loft windows,
Saying, God send our men well back again.
Johnie terminated his mortal career at Car-
lenrig, a place not far distant from Moss- Paul,
on the road between Langholm and Hawick.
The story of the judicial execution of this
border thief and his companions by James V-
is well known. The graves of the whole
marauders are to be seen in a deserted church-
yard at Carlenrig. In the present day, Lang-
holm does not seem to partake of any of the
peculiarities which distinguished the country in
" the riding times," or in the age of supersti-
tion ; being now one of the most thriving and
industrious towns of its size in Scotland. The
town is built in the bosom of a lovely wood-
land scene, along the Edinburgh and Carlisle
road, which pursues a line down the left bank
of the Esk, and consists generally of good
stone houses, covered with blue slate. A
bridge is here built across the Esk, connecting
the main part of the town with a more modern
suburb on the opposite side, called New Lang-
holm. At the market-place of the old town,
stands the town-hall and jail, ornamented with
a neat spire and clock. The church is built
on a rising ground in the rear of the town.
The chief trade in Langholm is the manufac-
ture of cotton and woollen goods, as checks,
stockings, &c. It also possesses a number of
good shops, a brewery, a distillery, dye-houses,
and other establishments. It contains likewise
branches of the British Linen Company and
National banks. There are two libraries, and
a well-conducted parochial school. The Crown
inn is a well known house of entertainment on
the road. Besides the Established church,
there is a United Secession church, and Re-
lief chapel. The town is a burgh of barony
under the Duke of Buccleugh, — a family to
whom the people of this part of Scotland
have been much indebted. That nobleman
appoints a baron-bailie to govern the town, as
in the case of Dalkeith. The weekly market-
day of Langholm is Wednesday, and there are
fairs on the 16th of April ; last Tuesday in
May, old style ; 26th of July ; 18th of Sep-
tember, and in November. At the July fair
vast quantities of lambs are usually disposed
of. There are two annual fairs for hiring
servants. — Population of the town in 1821,
1800, including the parish 2404.
LANGTON, a parish in the centre of
Berwickshire, with its northern part among
the uplands of the Lammermuir division, and
its opposite extremity in the low rich lands of
the Merse ; bounded by Longformacus on the
LARGO.
G93
west and part of the north, Dunse on part of
the north and on the east, and Polwarth chief-
ly on the south. Tlie figure of the parish is
somewhat triangular, with the apex towards
the south-east ; its mean length may be four
and a-half miles, and its breadth two and a-
half. From the east to the north-west limit
the ascent is gradual ; from south to north the
ascent is the same as far as the foot of the
high ground, known by the name of Langton
Edge. On this Edge or eminence, all the
enclosed and cultivated part of the parish is
presented to the eye, as well as the whole
breadth of Merse and of Northumberland, as
far as Wooler. The country is here now ex-
ceedingly beautiful and productive, having been
much improved during last century, and well
planted. The ancient village of Langton,
which stood in the lower part of the parish,
was long a mean straggling place ; " it suffer-
ed," we are told, " like the greater part of the
border towns, from the incursions of the Eng-
lish, having been burnt in 1558 by Sir Henry
Percy and Sir George Bowes, and at other
times by marauding parties from Berwick and
Northumberland. Mr. Gavin, the late pro-
prietor, (and, according to the author of the
Statistical Account of the parish, a gentleman
who effected very extensive and beneficial im-
provements in this district, subsequent to 1758,
the year he purchased his estate,) finding the
village an obstacle to improvement, offered to
feu the inhabitants on easy terms a piece of
ground, in a pleasant situation, about half a
mile distant. This was aerepted, and the old
town of Langton in a short time disappeared,
and the new and thriving village of Gavinton
arose in its room." This neat village is situ-
ated at the distance of about a mile and a-half
west of Dunse.— Population in 1821, 477.
LANGWELL, a small river in the parish
of Latheron, Caithness, which joining the water
of Berridale, falls into the sea at the village of
Berridale.
LAOGHAL, (LOCH,) a lake in the pa-
rish of Tongue, Sutherlandshire, bounding the
parish of Farr on its west side, extending
about four miles in length and one in breadth.
Jt is environed in rude mountain scenery, and
on the west is overshadowed by the lofty
mountain of Benlaoghal. At the north end
the lake is emitted by the water of Borgie, or
Torrisdale, a river flowing into the ocean at
Torrisdale village and bay.
LARBERT, a parish in Stirlingshire, in-
corporating the abrogated parish of Dunipace,
which lies on the west of Larbert. Jointly
they occupy a central and productive part of
the county, extending from east to west eight
miles, and from south to north about two
miles. St. Ninians is on the west and north,
Airth and Bothkennar on the east, and Fal-
kirk and Denny on the south. The river
Carron is the boundary throughout on the
south. The land is beautifully cultivated, en-
closed, and planted ; and the district is popu-
lous, from the manufactures within it. Of
public works those of Carron are the chief; they
are described in their appropriate place. The old
parish of Dunipace is remarkable for two singu-
lar conical mounts which it possesses, which
are likewise mentioned under their proper
head. The district has some gentlemen's
seats of the first class, among which is Kin-
naird, once the residence and property of
Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller, who was
born, died, and was buried in this parish.
The site of Arthur's Oven, a curious monu-
ment of antiquity, now removed, is in the pa-
rish. It has been sufficiently described under
its own head. The capital of the parish is the
village of Larbert, which lies two miles west-
north-west of Falkirk, and nine from Stirling,
the road betwixt these towns passing through
it. Besides this there are some other villages
and hamlets in the district. Population of
Dunipace in 1821, 1168, and of Larbert
3491.
LARGO, a parish in the county of Fife,
lying on the shore of the Firth of Forth, be-
twixt Newburn and Kilconquhar on the east,
and Scoonie (Leven,) on the west. Ceres-
bounds it on its inland quarter. It is some-
what of a square form, the mean breadth being
three miles, and the length inland about three
miles and a half. The area of the whole con-
tains 5469 acres. The ground rises in pleas-
ing undulations or elevations to the north, of-
fering a remarkably fine southern exposure.
Cultivation is here at a very high pitch of per-
fection ; the fields are well enclosed, and orna-
mented with plantations. The most striking
natural feature in the district is Largo Law, a
conspicuous conical hill, showing a kind of
double summit, and rising to the height of 1010
feet above the level of the sea ; it can be seen at
a great distance on both sides of the F'orth.
The parish contains objects of interest to the
G94
LARGO.
antiquary in what are called, " tlie Standing
Stanes of Lundin." These are three tall up-
right stones standing in the middle of a park,
about half way betwixt the villages of Largo
and Leven, on the north side of the road.
Two of them measure about eighteen or twen-
ty feet above ground, and the third is not so
high. They stand so as to describe the figure
of a triangle, but from the appearance of the
place, and the knowledge that one has been
prostrated, we would be tempted to say, that
there must have formerly been others beside
them, so as to form a Druidical circle. Though
evidently sunk deep in the ground, they lean in
different directions, and the weather has made
sad havock upon their original appearance- They
certainly bear the marks of great antiquity,
and if, as w r e imagine, the remains of a British
or Druidic people, they cannot have a later
date than before the dawn of Christianity, or an
age of two thousand years. It is impossible to
be confident respecting the origin of these in-
teresting stones, for they have no inscription,
and it is the general opinion at the place —
which, however, is of little value — that they
are mementos of Danish generals slain here in
battle. Some have conjectured them to be of
Roman origin, which is the least likely. The
parish of Largo contains two villages, one with
the title of Upper, or Kirktoun of Largo, and
another with the title of Nether Largo. It
will be best to describe these without entering
on a new article. Upper Largo, locally Kirk-
toun of Largo, is situated a mile from the sea,
on the road betwixt Leven and Anstruther,
three miles east from the former. It is a re-
markably agreeable little village. Here stands
•the parish church, an ancient Gothic fabric,
with a spire rising from the middle. This was
the birth-place of the celebrated Scottish ad-
miral Sir Andrew Wood, who, in the reign of
James IV-, defeated the English fleet under
Stephen Bull. Having been invested by the
king in the barony of Largo, he retired thither ;
and, according to the statist of the parish, it ap-
pears that, like Commodore Trunnion, he
brought on shore his nautical ideas and man-
ners. From his house down almost as far as
the church, he formed a canal, upon which he
sailed to church ! Here is an Hospital
founded by one of his descendants in 1659
for old men of the name of Wood ; it has
been handsomely rebuilt. Nether Largo is
situated at the head of the indentation of
the Firth, called Largo Bay. It stands at
the influx of a rivulet named the Keil,
whose estuary forms a poor harbour to the
place. The weaving of linen goods is a source
of emolument here and at Upper Largo.
This village would have remained among the
most obscure on the Scottish coasts, but
for the fortuitous circumstance of its hav-
ing been the birth-place of Alexander Sel-
kirk, the accredited prototype of the ficti-
tious Robinson Crusoe. The real history of
this man has been often printed ; but the fol-
lowing additional memorabilia respecting him,
picked up by the author of the " Picture of
Scotland," will perhaps be new to most read-
ers. Alexander Selkirk was born in the year
1676. His father, like almost all the rest of
the people of Nether Largo, was a fisherman,
and had another son, who carried on the line
of the family. There are many people in this
village of the rare name of Selkirk; but this
particular family has ended in a daughter, who,
being a married woman, has lost the name.
Alexander is remembered to have been a youth
of high spirit and incontrollable temper ; to
which, in all probability, we are to attribute
the circumstance which occasioned his being
left at Juan Fernandez. To a trivial family
quarrel, resulting from this bad quality on his
part, the world is indebted for the admirable
fiction which, for a century past, has charmed
the romantic imaginations of its youth. After
an absence of several years, during which
he had endured the solitude of Juan Fernan-
dez, he returned to Largo. He brought with
him the gun, sea-chest, and cup, which he had
used on the uninhabited island. He spent
nine months in the bosom of his family ; then
went away on another voyage, and was never
more heard of. The house in which this re-
markable person was born still exists. It is
an ordinary cottage of one story and a garret
and is situated on the north side of the princi-
pal street of Largo. It has never been out of
the possession of the family since his time.
The present occupant is his great-grand-niece,
Katherine Selkirk or Gillies, who inherited it
from her father, the late John Selkirk, who
was grandson to the brother with whom Alex-
ander had the quarrel, and died so late as Oc-
tober 1825, ab the age of 74. Mrs. Gillies,
who has very properly called one of her child-
ren after her celebrated kinsman, to prevent,
as she says, the name from going out of the
LARGS.
GO-
fannly, is very willing to show the chest and
cup to strangers applying for a sight of them.
The chest is a very strong one, of the ordi-
nary size, but composed of peculiarly fine
wood, jointed in a remarkably complicated
manner, and convex at the top. The
cup is formed out of a cocoa-nut, the small
segment cut from the mouth supplying a
stand. It was recently mounted anew with sil-
ver, at the expense of the late Mr. A. Con-
stable, the celebrated bookseller. The gun,
with which the adventurer killed his game, and
which is said to be about seven feet long, has
been alienated from the family, and is now in
possession of James Lumsdaine, Esq. of La-
thallan.— Population in 1821, 2301.
LARGS, always popularly called the Largs,
a town and parish in the northern extremity of
Ayrshire, beautifully situated on the Firth
of Clyde. The parish is bounded by that es-
tuary on the west, by Innerkip on the north,
by Dairy on the south, and by Wester Kil-
bride on the south-west. A range of hills
backs it in such a way, that it may be consider-
ed in a great measure cut off from all the
neighbouring cultivated ground, except towards
the south ; whence a proverbial expression
which even survives the new and facile inter-
course of steam-boats on the Clyde, " Out of
Scotland into the Largs." It is a remarkably
healthy and well sheltered district, and nothing
can excel the beautiful views opened up in
front by the Firth of Clyde, where so many
picturesque islands and headlands stretch
their lengthy forms upon the smooth green
waters, ever animated by the white-winged
ships, sailing out and in upon their various er-
rands of profit and pleasure. The parish is in
a state of high cultivation, and contains a num-
ber of elegant seats and villages. Among the
former may be noticed Fairlie and Kelburne
Castles, the residences of the Earl of Glas-
gow ; Brisbane House, the seat of Sir T. M.
Brisbane, baronet; and Skelmorlie, the man-
sion of ' Montgomery of Skelmorlay.
The town of Largs is now one of the most fa-
vourite retreats on the west coast for ruralising
and bathing, being rendered accessible to Glas-
gow and other large towns on this side of the
island by means, as above mentioned, of steam •
boats. It is now a pretty small town, con-
taining many neat modern houses for the ac-
commodation of visitors, besides some good
inns. An elegant suit of baths was erected
in 1816 by public subscription, four of them
after the model of those at Seafield, near
Leith, and one a vapour bath. Attached to
these are a reading-room and library, supplied
with many newspapers, and every popular work
as soon as published. The parish church is a
handsome building of stone, with a spire and
clock, and is a great ornament to the town.
There are several benevolent societies and two
Sabbath schools, which form the principal
charitable institutions. Various circulating li -
braries afford literary amusement to the studi-
ous, and a company of comedians generally at-
tends during the summer. Considerable busi-
ness is carried on in fishing. In the year
1818, an account of the number of resident vi-
sitors for the whole season, exclusive of casual
ones for shorter periods, gave 1000 persons.
The town is of considerable antiquity, and
was once the scene of an extraordinary kind
of fair, where the people used to come in boats
from the neighbouring Highlands, on St.
Colm's day, near midsummer, and exchange
their produce with a like convention of the
Lowland peasantry. It is governed by a baron
bailie. In the church is an aisle built by Sir
Robert Montgomery of Skelmorlie about two
centuries ago, and which, both for sculpture
and painting, does no discredit to those times.
Under ground is a vault, where, among others,
the body of Sir Robert lies in a leaden coffin ;
on which is the following Latin inscription : —
Ipse mihi prsemortuus fui, fato fimera praripui, uni-
cum idque Cassareum exemplar, inter tot mortales,
secutus.
Signifying, " I was dead before myself; I an-
ticipated my proper burial ; alone, of all mor-
tals, following the example of Caesar," i. e.
Charles V., who, it will be recollected, had
his obsequies performed before he died. The
explanation usually given of the strange con-
ceits of the inscription is, that Sir Robert was
a very pious man, and used to descend into the
vaults at night for his devotions ; thus buiying
himself, as it were, alive. Sir James Montgo-
meryof Skelmorlie, a subsequent representative
of this family, was a distinguished leader among
the Scottish presbyterians at the revolution,
and some years afterwards made himself
strangely and most inconsistently conspicuous
by a conspiracy with the ultra Jacobites for
the restoration of King James. Among the
antiquities of this parish may be mentioned a
69G
L A S S W A D E
chair, preserved in Brisbane house, and con-
sidered an heir-loom in the family of Brisbane ;
it is made of oak, and on the back bears the
date 1357, together with the arms of this an-
cient family, and the initials J. B. and E. H.
which must refer to the names of the first
proprietor and his wife. The castle of Fairlie,
which was formerly possessed by a family of
the same name, and is beautifully situated,
must be remembered as the scene of the fine
modern ballad of " Hardiknute." But decid-
edly the most remarkable antiquities in the
parish are the vestiges and relics of the famed
battle of Largs, which was fought on Tuesday
the 2d of October 1263, between the forces
of Haco, king of Norway, and Alexander III.
king of Scotland. The cause of dispute in
this case was the sovereignty of the western
islands. Haco, to enforce his claims to
that honour, approached the west coast of
Scotland with a numerous fleet, and well-ap-
pointed army, and cast anchor in the sound
between the coast at this point and the Cum-
bray islands. The king of Scotland having put
in force every artifice to gain time, assembled
about fifteen hundred well-appointed troops,
and a considerable number of an inferior kind,
whom he marshalled on the heights overlook-
ing the sea. During the night of the 1st of
October, a dreadful storm from the south-west
did prodigious damage to the fleet of king
Haco, and next morning, under great embarrass-
ment, he was obliged to land about 900 of his
men, all the rest being either sunk in the deep
sound, or engaged in attending to the relics of
the fleet. Of course, this little dispirited party
stood no chance against the large numbers,
perfect preparation, and keen patriotic feeling
of the Scots. Part of it was immediately
swept into the sea ; the rest retired to a place
called the Kepping Burn, a little below Kel-
burne, defending itself bravely all the way.
Afterwards, king Haco was able to land a few
more of his troops, and the united bands fought
bravely against the overpowering force of the
Scots during the whole day, night at length
permitting them to draw off their shattered
strength to their ships. The unfortunate
Norse were afterwards permitted by the king
of Scots to land and bury their friends. The
cairns and tumuli erected over them are still
visible on the field of battle, a little to the
south of Largs. In the centre there once stood
a large granite pillar ten feet high ; it fell
down many years ago. On some of the heaps
being opened, the bones of these stalwart fo-
reigners have been found in them ; and Danish
war-axes are occasionally picked up. King
Haco, a few days after the battle, collected all
that remained of his once noble fleet, and sail-
ed to Orkney, which was then his undisputed
property. Here he died in the ensuing De-
cember, of a broken heart for his misfortunes.
No writer can with justice assume any glory
to his country on account of the victory of
Largs, as circumstances were so much in favour
of the defending party as to put defeat almost
out of the question. Great credit, however,
is due to Alexander III. for his address in
protracting Haco's proceedings by negotiation,
till his enemy was left to the mercy of the ele-
ments ; a degree of address the more remark-
able, as the king was only about three and
twenty years of age — Population in 1821,
2479.
LARKHALL, a neat modern village in
the parish of Dalserf, Lanarkshire, situated on
the road from Glasgow to Carlisle, four miles
south-east of Hamilton, and eight north w r est
of Lesmahago. It is inhabited chiefly by
weavers.
LAROCH, a small river in Argyleshire,
district of Appin, and tributary to Loch" Cre-
ran.
LASSWADE, a parish in the centre of
Edinburghshire, bounded on the north by Lib-
erton, on the east by Dalkeith, on the south
by Pennycuik, and on the wast by Pennycuik
and Glencorse ; extending in length about eight
miles, and in breadth from two to four. The
name of the parish is derived from the Kirk-
town or village of Lasswade, which is said by
Mr. George Chalmers, the learned author of
the Caledonia, to signify a well-watered pasture
of common use ; Laeswe, in Anglo Saxon, sig-
nifying a common, and Weyde, in old English,
a meadow ; a definition certainly justified by
the situation of this beautiful village, though
the common people go more directly to the
point, and assert that here was stationed, in
former times, a girl or lass, who supplied the
place of a bridge or ferry-boat, by wading
through the water with travellers on her back.
The parish, with the exception of a part of
the Pentland hills, which falls within its
boundary, consists of a tract of fine level
ground, in the highest state of cultivation.
Throughout its whole length runs the river
L A S S W A D E.
097
North Esk, for which nature has formed a
channel of a very peculiar nature. This river
does not run over a broad alluvial bed, like
many other streams. Nature has formed
for it a more splendid channel, by hollowing
out, in the midst of the level upland country,
a profound ravine or chasm, at the bottom of
which the water pursues a most irregular
course, over large rocks and under deep banks,
the sides of which are everywhere clothed up to
the very edge of the level country with trees
in the most romantic arrangement. The va-
rious angularities, recesses, and projections of
this long ravine, afford situations of the most
romantic beauty for a series of antique objects,
and also of modern villas. These last are
occupied chiefly by families connected with
Edinburgh, who retire hither in summer, to
forget the smoke and the cares of the city, in
a climate which seems rather to belong to Italy
than to Scotland, and amidst scenes of the
most perfect loveliness. From its propinquity
to the capital, and the fertility of its soil, Lass-
wade parish has for many centuries been the
seat of great baronial families. About the
centre of the parish, and upon the north bank
of the Esk, stands the ancient castle of Roslin,
now in ruins, but formerly the princely seat
of the proud family of Sinclair, Earl of Ork-
ney. Adjacent, on the brow of the eminence,
stands the venerable and beautiful ruin of Ros-
lin chapel, or rather collegiate church. The
village of Roslin, which is situated on the flat
ground to the north, and other objects of in-
terest at this charming spot, including the
castle and chapel, are noticed at length under
the more appropriate head of Roslin. Far-
ther down the vale of the Esk, on the summit
of the south bank, is perched the curious old
baronial mansion of Hawthornden, the seat of
William Drummond, the Scottish poet and
historian, and which is still the property of his
descendants. Drummond was a gentleman of
moderate fortune, born in 1585. He cultivat-
ed literature to an extent little known among
his class in that age, and seems to have been
the personal friend of all the contemporary
English poets. He died in 1649, his end be-
ing hastened, it is said, by grief for the death
of Charles L, to whose cause he was zealously
attached. His remains lie interred in the fa-
mily vault at Lasswade church. His house of
Hawthornden, which may be described as a
mansion of the seventeenth century engrafted
upon the ruins of an ancient baronial castle,
has been deserted, but not disfumished by his
representative, Sir Francis Walker Drum-
mond, Bart, who designs to build a more
commodious mansion in the neighbourhood.
Within the house may still be seen a number
of jacobite portraits and other relics, including
a dress worn by Prince Charles Stuart during
his Scottish campaign of 1745. In a walk ad-
jacent to the house is a cool recess in the face
of the precipitous freestone rock : this is call-
ed the Cypress Grove, and it is said to have
been a favourite retreat of the poet. From
disappointments in life — in particular, the loss
of a beloved mistress by death — Drummond's
mind was rather of a melancholy cast ; a se-
ries of his poems bears the name of the Cypress
Grove, and expresses his melancholy feelings.
Perhaps these elegies took their name from
this arbour. Underneath the foundations of
Hawthornden house there is a strange souterrain,
consisting of different apartments, furnished
with a draw-well, and lighted by apertures in
the face of the precipice. This is supposed to
have been an early British retreat, and to have
more lately served as a place of concealment
for the patriots who endeavoured to rescue their
country from the sway of Edward III., par-
ticularly Sir Alexander Ramsay. This arti-
ficial wonder is styled " the caves of Haw-
thornden," and attracts many visitors. It can
never be forgotten in a notice of Hawthorn-
den, that Ben Jonson walked from London
on foot, and here spent a few weeks with
the congenial intellect of Drummond. The
walks along the banks of the Esk, both above
and below this point, are the most delightful
imaginable, opening up at every step some new
arrangement of picturesque and romantic ob-
jects. The parish of Lasswade was originally
smaller ; but at the Reformation received the
accession of a part of the parish of Pentland
then suppressed, and in 1633 was further in-
creased by the addition of part of Melville pa-
rish. Even before these additions, the church
was considered a veiy valuable living. In the
ancient taxation, it is rated at 90 merks, which
proves it to have been second only to St. Cuth-
bert's in Mid- Lothian. The church and lands
of Lasswade were granted to the bishop of St.
Andrews so early as the twelfth century, and
it thus became a mensal church of the bishop-
ric : the parsonage belonged to the bishop, and
the cure was served by a vicar. The church
4v
698
LASSWADE.
constituted one of the prebends of St. Salva-
dor's college, St. Andrews, till, in the reign of
James III. it was annexed to the collegiate
church of Restalrig, after which the sacerdotal
duty was performed by the dean of the latter
establishment. In Bagimont's roll, formed in
the reign of James V., the rectory of Lass-
wade was taxed at L.20, and the vicarage L.2,
13s. 4d., which evinces the great value of the
church at the Reformation; The ancient pa-
rochial church, which from first to last has wit-
nessed all the different forms of public worship
as they became successively triumphant, still
exists as a feeble ruin, shrouded from pubKc
notice amidst a cluster of trees, and within a
few yards of the conspicuous modern edifice.
An aisle of the old structure is appropriated
as the burial-vault of the noble family of Mel-
ville, and here lies interred the first Viscount
of that title, whose eminent situation in the
ministry of Mr. Pitt is too well known to re-
quire particular notice. The barony of Mel-
ville received its name from Male, an English
baron, who came into Scotland during the reign
of David I. at the beginning of the twelfth
century, and became Justiciary under William
the Lion. Together with the barony of Lug-
ton, this property formed the distinct parish
of Melville, which was suppressed in 1633.
The family of' Malville, as it was at first
styled, acquired more land in Mid-Lothian
daring the thirteenth century. In the reign
of Robert II. (1371-90,) it ended in a fe-
male heir, Agnes, who married Sir John Ross
of Halkhead. The descendants of this mar-
riage acquired the peerage of Lord Ross in 1705.
It was purchased in the last century by David
Rennie, whose daughter carried it by marriage
to Henry Dundas, created Viscount Melville in
1802. Melville Castle, a seat built on the
property of this eminent man, is a fine castel-
lated edifice, occupying a secluded but charm-
ing situation on a piece of low ground on the
margin of the Esk, surrounded by high banks
finely wooded and cultivated. "Within view,
and a very short way to the west, stands the
thriving and pleasant village of Lasswade, built
on both sides of the river, which is here cross-
ed by a good stone bridge. With its neat mo-
dern white-washed church crowning the height
on the north bank of the stream, and its thatch-
ed cottages below, embosomed in luxuriant gar-
dens and umbrageous trees, it may be esteem-
ed one of the very prettiest and most pictur-
30.
esque villages in Scotland. Within a period
of a few years it has been greatly improved by
the erection of many substantial freestone
houses, and has recently received the addi
tion of a dissenting meeting-house, originat-
ing in a split from one in the neighbouring
town of Dalkeith. It now possesses a distil-
lery, a paper-mill, a candle manufactory, and
its oat-meal and barley mills have been long
celebrated for their excellence. We believe
that, through the recommendation of the late
Lord Melville, the oat-meal used by the pre-
sent royal family in their juvenile days was im-
ported from the mills at this place. Within the
parish are several bleachfields and paper manu-
factories, all on the Esk, betwixt Lasswade and
Roslin, and at the latter there is an extensive
gunpowder manufactory. Springfield, a scat-
tered hamlet, the residence chiefly of paper-
makers, in a dell on the Esk, is reputed for its
rural beauty. The parish also includes the po-
pulous village of Loanhead, lying on the high
ground between Lasswade and Roslin. Lass-
wade is yearly increasing in size, and being
situated within six miles south from Edin-
burgh, it is considered by the citizens one of
the best places for half a day's recreation
during the summer months ; jaunting parties
generally coming round this way from Roslin.
Stage coaches in communication with Edin-
burgh run several times every day — Popula-
tion of the parish, its villages included, in
1821, 4186.
LATHERON, a large parish in the
county of Caithness, occupying the south-east
corner of the shire, and lying on the German
Ocean. From the Ord of Caithness it ex-
tends twenty-seven miles along the coast, by
a breadth of from thirteen to fifteen miles.
It is bounded by Halkirk on the north, and
Watten and Wick on the north-east. The
district is hilly and pastoral, with straths or
vales, through which streams flow towards the
sea, and the lower grounds are arable. In
modern times a good road intersects the pa-
rish along the shore, and on this road there are
some pretty thriving little villages. The first
in proceeding northward is Berridale. La-
theron Kirk stands half way along the coast,
near the spot where a road leaves the thorough-
fare and crosses the country to Thurso. — Po-
pulation in 1821, 6575.
LAUDER, a parish in the western part
of Berwickshire, in the district of Lauderdale.
LAUDER.
699
It extends upwards of nine miles from south-
west to north-east, by a breadth of from five
to six miles. A very large portion is included
in the hilly region of Lammermoor, and the
productive, as well as mainly habitable, part
of the parish lies in the vale of Leader water,
a stream intersecting it, and from which this
division of the country, as well as the parish and
town, appear to have taken their names. The
fields in this quarter are now greatly improved,
and plantations ornament the ground. The
parish of Channelkirk lies on the north-west,
higher up the vale of the Leader. The next
parish below is Legerwood. A small tract
of ground belongs to Lauder parish, on the
opposite side of the Leader from Legerwood.
Lauder, a royal burgh, the capital of
the above parish, the seat of a presbytery, and
the chief town in this quarter of Berwickshire,
is situated in the above mentioned vale of the
Leader, at the distance of twenty-five miles from
Edinburgh, thirty-two from Berwick, eighteen
from Dunse, seventeen from Kelso, twelve
from Greenlaw, twenty-one from Coldstream,
twenty-one from Jedburgh, and seven miles above
Earlstoun. It stands on the main road from Edin-
burgh to Kelso, and consists of little else than a
line of houses on each side of the thoroughfare.
The street widens sufficiently about the centre
to admit an additional line of houses, at the west
end of which is the town-house. The build-
ings of the town are plain and of an irregular
appearance, and the place is one of the dullest
in the county. The church stands near the
street, to the south of the town-house. It
was built in 1673, when the Duke of Lauder-
dale removed the former church from the
neighbourhood of his house. The building,
though in the venerable form of a cross, is not
remarkable for elegance. A market-cross
formerly stood in front of the town-house ; but
the spot is now only marked, as in the similar
case of Edinburgh, by a radiated pavement.
As a royal burgh, and of a very ancient date,
Lauder is governed by two bailies and fifteen
councillors. The qualification of a burgess of
Lauder is very peculiar. There is attached to
the town a quantity of land divided into up-
wards of a hundred portions called burgh acres,
though varying in size, and generally above a
Scottish acre. The possession of one of these
acres constitutes the claim to be admitted a
burgess. The burgh common consists of a
considerable quantity of outfield land, includ-
ing some neighbouring hills ; this is divided
into shares, which are apportioned by lot among
the burgesses, for each rotation of crops, a pos-
sessor of the infield acres receiving a pro-
portionate extent of the common. It joins
with Haddington, Dunbar, North-Berwick
and Jedburgh, in sending a member to parlia-
ment. The town is entitled to hold five an-
nual fairs. Besides the parish church, there
is a United Secession meeting-house. The
most conspicuous object in and about Lauder
is Thirlstane castle, a stupendous and spa-
cious house, surrounded by a park and some
fine trees, and the seat of the family of
Lauderdale. It stands between the Leader
and the town, on a fine lawn. The nu-
cleus of this edifice was a strong tower called
Lauder Fort, originally built by Edward I.,
as a check to the Scots in this quarter. The
Duke of Lauderdale, (whose family had for-
merly resided in a little tower called Thirl-
stane, about two miles to the eastward,) ir.
1672 added a new front and wings, removed
the church and church-yard from the space they
had formerly occupied directly between the
castle and the town, and changing the name
made it his family residence. The church
then removed was that in which took place
the celebrated conference of the Scottish no-
bles, that ended in the murder of king James
the Third's favourites. Cochrane, the chief,
was seized at the church door, and hanged
over a neighbouring bridge, by a rope which
his assassins found, during a search for such
an article, in one of the cellars of the Fort.
The said bridge, though still " flourishing in
immortal youth" in the ordinary books for
the road, has not existed for a century ;
the foundations alone are to be seen about
two hundred yards below the Castle, and the
river is now crossed by a modern erection, a
good way farther down. Thirlstane Castle is
fitted up and decorated in the best taste of the
reign of Charles II. with massive balustrades
and cornices, and a profusion of marble chim-
ney-pieces and flowers. It contains a vast
quantity of family portraits, including" the poe •
tical knight of Mary's time, his son, usually
denominated in history Secretary Maitland,
and the Duke himself, of whom there are no
fewer than five paintings — Population of
Lauder in 1821, 1000 ; including the parish,
1845.
LAUDERDALE, a district in Berwick.
700
LAURENCEKIRK.
shire, (see Berwickshire,) the capital of
which is the ahove town of Lauder. It gives
the title of Earl to the family of Maitland, en-
nobled in the reign of James VI.
LAURANCE, (ST.)— See Slamanan.
LAURENCEKIRK,or LAWRENCE-
KIRK, a parish in Kincardineshire, former-
ly, and still in some cases, called Conveth j
bounded on the north by Fordoun, on the east
by Garvock, on the south by the same and
by Marykirk, which latter also bounds it on
the west. In figure it is triangular, with the
apex to the south. Its greatest length is
rather above four miles, and its greatest breadth
about three. The area of the parish measures
4381 square acres. The district consists of
one large ridge, extending longitudinally from
east to west, and sloping gently to its northern
and southern extremities. The small river Leu-
ther, which rises in the Grampian hills, and falls
into the North Esk, passes through it. Nine
brooks likewise intersect the parish, seven upon
the southern and two upon the northern side of
the Leuther. This part of Kincardineshire
is now a good deal improved in its agriculture,
and there are some plantations.
Laurencekirk, a village in Kincar-
dineshire, and the capital of the above pa-
rish, situated on the road from Perth to Aber-
deen, at the distance of ninety-three miles from
Edinburgh, ten from Montrose, five from
Marykirk, and thirteen from Stonehaven. It
takes its name from the old parish church,
which was dedicated to St. Laurence. This
village was formerly a mere hamlet, surround-
ed by a moorish and uncultivated tract of
country. In the year 1772, it was taken un-
der the care of Lord Gardenstone, a judge of
the Court of Session, known, but scarcely so
well as he should be, for his successful culti-
vation of the belles lettres, and distinguished,
in his own day, by his eccentric manners, and
speculative turn of mind. His lordship hay-
ing formed the resolution of creating a town
here, laid out a plan for buildings, and soon
succeeded in attracting settlers. In 1 779, he
procured for the place the privileges of a burgh
of barony, empowering the inhabitants, every
three years, to choose a bailie and four coun-
cillors, to regulate the police, &c, with the
privilege of holding weekly markets, and an
annual fair. Before he died, he had the satis-
faction of seeing Laurencekirk a thriving little
town, and the people enjoying many comforts
which are frequently denied to older settlements.
A good inn was established by the public-spirit-
ed proprietor, who attached to it a select library
for the amusement of travellers. He also en-
couraged and contributed liberally to the esta-
blishment of a linen manufacture and bleach-
field, which are now in a thriving state. In
modern times, the village has become noted
for its manufacture of snuff-boxes, which are
made of wood, in a style similar to those of
Cumnock in Ayrshire. Besides the esta-
blished church there is a large and neat Epis-
copal chapel, and a congregation belonging to the
United Associate Synod. The parochial school
is in the village. The parish of Laurencekirk
had for its schoolmaster, at the beginning of
the last century, the illustrious Ruddiman, who
might have there wasted his fine talents and
profound learning in hopeless obscurity, but for
a singularly fortuitous circumstance : The ce-
lebrated Dr. Pitcaim, being once benighted
at the little inn of this country village, found it
very difficult to while away the hours which
preceded bed-time ; his hotel not being, like
the present, furnished with a library. As a last
resource, he sent for the schoolmaster ; and
the youthful Ruddiman was soon ushered in-
to his presence. A conversation ensued, in
the course of which, to his infinite surprise,
he discovered the modest young man to be a
most excellent scholar; a qualification of
which no man in Scotland was better able to
judge. Before the conversation was con-
cluded, he promised to become his patron ;
and soon after procured an appointment at
Edinburgh : by which his valuable talents
were secured for the use of a more extended
circle than the parish-school of Laurencekirk
afforded. Laurencekirk had the merit of giv-
ing birth to Dr. Beattie, who was first brought
into notice by the influence of Lord Garden-
stone, while acting as schoolmaster of the ad-
jacent parish of Fordoun. — Population in 1821,
1515.
LAURISTOUN, or LAWRISTOUN,
a large village in the parish of Falkirk, Stirling-
shire, about one mile east from that town, con-
taining about nine hundred inhabitants, who
are chiefly employed in weaving and agricul-
tural labours. It was originally called Lang-
toun — then Merchiston, — and is now named
Lauristoun, in honour of the late Sir Law-
rence Dundas, who added considerably to it.
LAVERN, a small river in Renfrewshire,
LEADHILLS.
701
vyhich rises in the parish of Neilston, and af-
ter a north-easterly course of six or seven
miles, falls into the White Cart, a short way
above Crookston Castle. It is of considerable
use in turning the mills of a variety of cot-
ton factories. On its banks are also bleach-
fields and printfields.
LAX AY, an islet on the south-east coast
of Lewis.
LAXFORD, a river in Sutherlandshire,
originating in Loch Stalk, parish of Eddera-
chylis, and pursuing a westerly course, falls
into the bay or indentation of the sea called
Loch Laxtord. This salt water lake pene-
trates four miles into the country in an irre-
gular manner. It is celebrated for its sal-
mon, as its Norwegian name would indicate ;
and where the river first joins the sea the
scenery is not unpleasing. The bay offers
good anchorage.
LE ADER, or LAUDER, a small river in
the western part of Berwickshire, rising in the
Lammermoor hills, and pursuing a southerly
course through the vale, to which it conveys the
appellation of Lauderdale, falls into the Tweed
at Drygrange bridge, a short way above the
abbey and grounds of Dryburgb. It passes
i he town of Lauder, which stands on its right
bank, and some miles farther down the plea-
sant village of Earlstoun and the heights of
Cowdenknows, situated on its left bank. It
offers a considerable source of amusement to
the angler, being one of the trouting waters of
the south, and its haughs (" Leader Laughs
and Yarrow" being the theme of Scottish song,)
will possess unseen cbarms to the poetic fancy.
LEADHILLS, a village in the parish of
Crawford, LanarksLire, at tLe distance of
forty-six miles soutL-west of Edinburgb, forty-
four soutL of Glasgow, fifteen and a quarter
soutL of Douglas Mill, and sixteen nortL of
TLornLill. It stands in an alpine region, thirteen
hundred feet above the level of the sea, amidst
a wilderness of dismal heathy mountains. It de-
rives its name from being the residence of work-
men employed in the valuable lead- mines in this
quarter of the country, " The rich mineral
treasures which the hills contain in their
bosom," says a contemporary, " have, by the
concourse of miners, formed two considerable
villages, Leadhills, and WanlockLead, in a
situation not likely to become the seat of any
numerous population. Gold has been found
in the sand of these mountains at an early pe-
riod ; and Sir Bevis Bulmer was here for
several summers collecting it, by order of
queen Elizabeth, with the consent of James
VI. He had a house at Wanlockhead, where
he deposited tLe fruits of Lis labour. It is
believed tbat lead was found Lere in tLe time
of tLe Romans. However, it is certain tLat
one Martin Templeton discovered a vein in
tLe bed of tLe rivulet in 1517. TLe lead ore
dug from tLese mines affords a very libera,
proportion of silver. TLe business is car-
ried on by a company named tLe Scots Mining
Company, who farm tLe hills from the Earl
of Hopetoun the proprietor. He receives
from the company every sixth bar of lead as
his rent. The number of bars annually cast
amounts on an average to about 18,000. The
largest piece of blue ore ever found in these
mines is now at Hopetoun House, and
weighs between four and five tons. In 1809,
the produce of these mines was 25,'J00 bars,
at nine stone avoirdupois the bar, makes 14174
tons, which at L.32 per ton, the then price,
amounts to L.45,360. It has a fair in June,
and anotLer in October, and a cbapel and
scLool." TLe inLabitants, tbougL cLiefly
employed in tLe severe labour of mining, are
an enligbtened set of people, Laving a pretty
extensive subscription library, and exbibit-
ing a zeal in tLe acquisition of useful know-
ledge perfectly astonisLing. It was Lere tLat
Allan Ramsay, a poet of great merit, but
wLose reputation Las quailed before tbat of
Burns, as Lindsay's Lad formerly been extin-
guisLed by Lis, first saw tLe light and spent
his earlier years. The ruins of the house in
which he was born were lately to be seen at
tbe corner of a field, near tLe Louse occupied
by tbe superintendent of tLe lead-mines. —
TLe population of LeadLills in 1821 was
about 1050.
LECROPT, a parisb in tLe counties of
PertL and Stirling, lying on tLe left bank of
tLe TeitL at its junction witL tLe Allan. It
is tLus peninsular in form ; from east to west
it extends about tbree miles, and nearly about
as mucb from nortL to soutL. It is bounded
by Kilmadock on tLe west, and Dumblane on
tLe nortL. TLe parisL of Kincardine lies oppo-
site to it on tLe TeitL. AltogetLer it con-
tains two tLousand acres, one Lalf of wLicL is
a ricL clay, and tLe otLer Lalf upland, or
wLat is generally called dryfield. TLe word
Lecropt is significant of these local charac-
702
L E I T II.
teristics. The country is here exceedingly
beautiful, well improved, and planted. At
the bridge over the Allan connecting the pa-
rish of Logic with Lecropt, stands the pretty
little village called " Bridge of Allan," which is
noticed under its own head. — Population in
1821, 513.
LEDNOCK, a small river in Perthshire,
parish of Comrie, which falls into the Earn
at Comrie, and gives the name of Glenlednock
to the vale through which it flows.
LEET, a small river in Berwickshire,
falling into the Tweed at the west end of
the town of Coldstream. In the parish of
Eccles, on this rivulet, stands the small village
of Leet-holm.
LEGERWOOD, a parish in Berwick-
shire, lying on the east bank of the Leader,
betwixt Lauder on the north, and Earlstoun on
the south. It measures about three miles in
length by two and a half in breadth. The
surface is hilly, and partly pastoral and part-
ly arable. The country is rather bare and
not very interesting. The village of Leger-
wood stands on a cross road off the thorough-
fare through Lauderdale Population in 1821,
476.
LEITH,* a large and populous town and
sea-port, in the county of Edinburgh, occupy-
ing a low situation on the shore of the Firth
of Forth, at the distance of about a mile and
a half north-east from the cross of Edinburgh.
Originally, and for many ages, Leith remained
a distinct town, but in recent times, such has
been the extension of buildings and the great
intercourse between it and the metropolis,
that both unite in forming a great city. Never-
theless, though thus physically joined with
Edinburgh, and though there is a great mutual
dependence on each other, Leith is still so
much a town having its own institutions, its
own manners and usages, and its own inde-
pendent feelings, that though it might have
been as well to have described the place in
connexion with Edinburgh, these circum-
stances, together with the nature of the present
work, required it to have a distinct place for
itself.
The primitive name of the place was Inver-
* Besides the authorities consulted in the composi-
tion of the article Edinburgh, we have had recourse
to the recent " History of Leith, by Alexander Camp-
bell," a compendious work full of instructive and amus-
ing particulars.
leith, from its situation on the mouth of the
Leith, but in the course of time, the present
mutilated designation prevailed. The proxi-
mity of this ancient sea-port to Edinburgh
has been at once its misfortune and its source
of prosperity. Its history opens in the four-
teenth century, with the fact, that while yet
a mere village on the estuary of the river, it
excited the cupidity of the magistrates of the
adjacent and powerful city; and we trace
through the accounts of the impartial histo-
rians of both places, an unvarying tale de-
scriptive of the persevering efforts of the town-
council to secure its revenues and cramp its
independence. Yet, with this drawback on
its freedom and opulence, it may be admitted,
that being the only port of the metropolis,
it owes to it much of its consequence as a
town.
Nothing is certainly known of the history
of Leith until the year 1329, at which time it
was a dependency of the family of Logan of
Restalrig, and had obtained sufficient import-
ance and prosperity to excite the fears and
tempt the avarice of the citizens of Edin-
burgh, who in that year applied for and ob-
tained, from Robert I. a grant of " the har-
bour and mills of Leith, with their apurte-
nances, for payment of fifty-two merks yearly."
With this privilege the town-council were not
content, and, taking at the same time the
ground adjacent to the harbour, the baronial
superior contested the claims of that body,
and obliged it to buy the waste ground extend-
ing from the houses to the river, with liberty
to erect wharves and quays thereon for loading
goods, and the council farther stipulated, that
allowances should be given to make ways or
roads through the lands of Restalrig, for the
more easy transporting of goods to and from
the port of Leith, and a liberty to erect grana-
ries for the reception of corn. The road form-
ed in virtue of the purchase still exists, under
the name of the Easter Road, and leads from
the head of Leith Links to the foot of the
Canongate.
Logan, the superior of Leith, who negotiated
this transaction, appears to have been as heart-
less and greedy as the magistrates of the city
were rapacious. He ultimately granted a bond
to the town-council, for a large consideration,
by which the inhabitants of Leith were not on-
ly restrained from carrying on any sort of trade,
but debarred from keeping shops, warehouses,
L E I T H.
703
or inns, or houses of entertainment for stran-
gers. Not satisfied with this measure, the
town-council, with an illiberal policy, for which
it is difficult to account on rational grounds,
further ordained, in the year 1485, that no
merchant of Edinburgh should presume to take
into partnership an inhabitant of Leith, under
a penalty of forty shillings, and a deprivation of
the freedom of the city for one year. Other
acts of a similar tendency followed. The
council ordained that none of the revenues of
the city should be farmed to an individual be-
longing to Leith, nor that any of the farmers
should take one of them as a partner in such
contracts. It was also enacted that no staple
goods should be deposited in warehouses in
Leith, or be disposed of in that place, under a
severe penalty. In these acts of the town-council
of Edinburgh, we have very luminous instances
of the vile embargoes on free trade in towns,
and on the industry of the people, so common in
Scotland in former times, and even now far from
being removed, wherever close corporations
have a predominating influence. It does not
appear, however, that those enactments had
a permanent effect in depressing Leith. It
gradually rose in spite of opposition, and from
an act of parliament relating to dues payable by
foreigners, it is certain that it even had inns
for the reception of such persons.
In the reign of James IV., that monarch
erected a sea-port town about a mile further
west, which he styled Newhaven, and endowed
with «ertain burgal privileges ; but the town-
council entertaining similar fears about the rising
consequence of this port, in 1511, purchased of
the king the town and harbour, with all their
rights and privileges, which are still retained by
the metropolis. Coeval with the erection of
this suburb, James built a chapel, which he de-
dicated to St. Mary, and from this religious
fabric the little haven was sometimes called
" Our Lady's Port of Grace."
According to Pitscottie, the year 1511 was
rendered famous by the construction of " ane
varie monstrous great schip, called the Michael,"
in Leith or Newhaven, which vessel we are
told required so much timber in building, " that
she waisted all the woodis in Fyfe, except
Falkland wood, besides the timber that came
out of Norway." The captain of this huge
vessel, which appears to have been a favourite
work of the king, was Andro Wood, a seaman
who is eminent in the Scottish annals for his
intrepidity, and for his services to the state.
The first great calamity which befel the
town after it began to rise into a state of
prosperity, was its seizure and burning by the
Earl of Hertford in 1544. Landing at Roy-
ston, he marched eastward to Leith with ten
thousand men, and meeting with little opposi-
tion, he arrived in the town in the middle of
a day in April, just while the inhabitants were
sitting down to dinner, which was abandoned to
the English soldiers. After seizing the ves-
sels in the harbour, and leaving 1500 men in
the town, the Earl proceeded to lay waste the
country, and to burn the metropolis, an outrage
he was ordered above all things to commit.
Having accomplished the purposes of the war,
he returned with his victorious troops, and on
leaving the port committed it to the flames.
Three years afterwards, Leith was again
visited by the same general, then Duke of So-
merset, and was again injured by fire, though
not to the same extent. The English fleet,
on this occasion, found thirty-five vessels in
the harbour. After the year 1547, we find
Leith involved, less or more, in almost every
transaction of importance which occurred in
the kingdom during the regency of Mary
of Lorraine, who fortified the town, and gar-
risoned it with a body of French troops, in
order to resist the progress of the Refor-
mation. The walls formed on this occa-
sion defied all the attempts of the Protestant
forces. The rampart was of an octagonal
form, with eight bastions, at so many angles.
The line it pursued seems to have been on the
site of the present Bernard Street and Consti-
tution Street, from nearly the west end of which
it proceeded in a northerly direction to the
river. Here the wall was connected with its
continuation on the west side of the stream by
a wooden bridge, which stood exactly 115 yards
below the new stone bridge at the saw mills.
From the river it proceeded to the citadel, and
then taking an easterly direction, it terminated
at the sand-port. The bastions were of great
strength, and the wall was wholly of stone. It
had several ports, the chief of which was one
called the Block-house, and it was here the
greatest carnage took place at the general as
sault made by the besiegers in 1560. No ves-
tige of these defences now exists, and it is on-
ly when making excavations that traces of the
704
L E I T II.
ancient military character of the town is dis-
coverable. Recently, in digging the founda-
tion of a building at the head of the Links, a
closed-up well was laid open, which, on being
cleared out, was found to contain several cart-
loads of horses' heads, a striking, though certain-
ly a singular testimony of the slaughter which
had been committed in the adjacent field of
battle. On the Links, not far from this spot,
is still a mound of earth, now almost the only
remaining part of the works thrown up by the
besiegers of Leith to protect their advance to
the ramparts.
Some time before these commotions, the
Queen Regent had endeavoured to propitiate
and to secure the inhabitants of Leith to her
own and her daughter's interest, by granting
them a contract, dated at Holyrood, 1555, to
erect the town into a burgh of barony, to con-
tinue in force until she erected it into a royal
burgh, preparatory to which she purchased,
with money advanced to her by the people of
Leith for that purpose, the superiority of the
town, and of the Links, for the use of the in-
habitants, from Logan of Restalrig. The
Queen Dowager, however, failed in her en-
gagements, and it is generally alleged that the
city of Edinburgh offered her 20,000 merks to
prevent the erection of the town into a royal
burgh. According to Knox, Mary of Lorraine
was a woman who " could make her profit at
all hands," and it is certain that in this case she
duped the town out of a considerable sum.
After the reins of government had been
placed in the hands of Mary Queen of Scots,
the inhabitants of Leith had reason to expect
some indulgence from that princess, but all
their hopes were finally frustrated in the year
1565, when, among other shifts to recruit her
exhausted finances, she mortgaged the superi-
ority of Leith to Edinburgh, redeemable for
1000 merks, with the reversion in favour of
Bothwell. Mary, like-most of the other mem-
bers of the house of Stewart in similar casej,
was compelled by exigent necessity to do this
act of injustice against her inclinations, as is
testified by a letter which she wrote to the
town-council in 1566, requesting that body to
delay the assumption of superiority. The
short indulgence she craved, as might have been
expected, was refused after some shifting, and
on the 2d of July, 1567, the citizens of Edin-
burgh marched in military array to Leith, which
they went through the form of taking by a sort
of capture, and thus the independence of the
town was lost.
After this humiliating event, the town-coun-
cil and incorporations of Edinburgh enacted
many severe laws applicable to the public and
private trade of Leith. The inhabitants made
an attempt, in 1607, to procure the good- will of
James VI. to assist in emancipating them from
bondage, but without effect, as, by a private
arrangement with the king, the town-council
secured their supremacy on a broader basis
than ever.
When the matter of the Solemn League and
Covenant was entered into with England, in no
place was it treated with more reverence, or its
ratification more solemnly conducted than in
Leith, where it was signed by the inhabitants
in the month of October 1643. Four years
later, the town was visited by that ancient
scourge of Scotland, the plague, the horrors of
which were aggravated by a dreadful famine.
At this period the population of the town and
its neighbourhood amounted to between four
and five thousand individuals, out of which
number fully a half were destroyed in the short
space of six or eight months. The church-
yards were insufficient to receive the bodies
of those who died, and the adjacent links and
grounds were made their place of sepulture.
Till this day, in trenching the neighbouring
fields and gardens, the half-decayed bones of
the unhappy victims of this dreadful malady
are occasionally found, wrapped in the blankets
in which they died. Such were the ravages
committed by the plague and the famine, that,
in a representation to parliament for relief,
the number of the dead were said to exceed
the number of the living; and so impressed
were the Estates with the miserable condition
of the starving inhabitants, that they gave the
magistrates the right of seizing grain in ware-
houses and cellars for the use of the people,
leaving them to make future payment by sub-
sequent appeals to the generosity of the inha-
bitants of the country.
The next memorable period in the annals
of Leith is the year 1650, when Cromwell,
having defeated the Scottish forces at Dunbar,
proceeded to Edinburgh, while Lambert, his
major-general, took possession of Leith. The
only way in which the port suffered by this
event, was by an assessment of about the sum
of L.22 Sterling, which was considered a griev-
ous exaction, especially so soon after the cala-
L E I T H.
7o;
inities of the plague and famine. On the ap-
pointment of General Monk to be commander-
in-chief, he came to reside in Leith, where a
strong and regular garrison was established.
The citadel of Leith, which was improved and
mostly constructed by Cromwell's army, was
situated on the north side of the estuary of
Leith, and was of a pentagonal form, consist-
ing of a wall with five bastions at so many
angles, with one principal gate fronting the east.
In its internal structure it had some strong
works rising above each other, with well-built
houses for the governor, officers, and soldiers,
and for magazines and stores. It was also
provided with a chapel, having a spacious court-
yard in front. The whole of these defences
are now gone, and the only portions of the ci-
tadel now left are a Saxon archway, over which
a modern house has been erected, and about
twenty yards of the wall extending eastward
from thence.
While resident at Leith, General Monk in-
duced a number of English families to settle
in the town, and the most of those who ar-
rived are reputed to have been of consider-
able wealth. They engrafted a spirit of mer-
cantile adventure on the port, and established
certain branches of manufacture which are yet
among the staple trades of the town. It is re-
corded that those and other trades felt the re-
strictive exactions of the town-council to be
of a cramping and annoying nature, and made
frequent appeals to the republican government
to have themselves released from their appli-
cation, but for various reasons their petitions
met with little attention. Even with such
burdens, Leith gradually grew in prosperity
and opulence, and in spite of innumerable vex-
ations, in time arose to that degree of size
and opulence in which we now find it.
The succeeding historical events with which
the town of Leith is connected, the chief of
which was the landing of his Majesty George
IV. in 1822, being already noticed in the his-
tory of Edinburgh, do not here require recapi-
tulation.
For a very long period Leith was famed for
its horse races. These were held during the
recess of the tide upon a flat expanse of sand
in front of the town ; and although a course
of this nature was much inferior to that on the
regular turf, yet these races were persevered
in with a spirit and satisfaction rarely witness-
ed in other places. Leith races were as an-
cient as the period of the Restoration, when
out of door amusements came much into fa-
shion ; and for fifty years after that event,
this pastime seems to have divided the at-
tention of the boisterous young men of the
country with cock-fighting, #nd still more bru-
tal games. From the Restoration till the year
1816, these races appear to have been conti-
nued annually with very little intermission.
They generally occurred in the last week of
July, or the first week in August, and lasted for
four orfive days. The race- week was then reck-
oned the carnival of the metropolis, which was
crowded with persons of fashion from all parts
of the country, who came to enjoy the sports
of the race-ground, as well as the balls and as-
semblies which took place in Edinburgh in the
evenings. During the whole week, but princi-
pally on Saturday, the sands were the scene of
the most boisterous revels, and of not a few skir-
mishes and battles betwixt the town-guard and
the lower classes from the city. The outer edge
of the shore was lined with booths or taverns,
and places of theatrical amusements, and the
pier served on the occasion as a most excellent
stand for the spectators. Latterly it was felt
by those concerned in supporting the Edin-
burgh races held here, that the soft wet sands
were too heavy for the generality of mettled
racers, and in consequence they were removed
to the links of Musselburgh in 1816, much to
the dissatisfaction of the town, and we need
hardly say, of the juvenile part of the popu-
lation of Edinburgh.
Leith is ecclesiastically and popularly divid-
ed into the parishes and districts of North and
South Leith, the former lying on the west
side of the river, and the latter on the east.
The greater part of the town and extent of
territory, however, lie on the east, or South-
Leith side. The parish of North-Leith ori-
ginally belonged to the parish of Holyrood,
from which it was disjoined in 1606, and in
1630 it received an accession of the baronies of
Newhaven and Hillhousefield, formerly belong-
ing to the parish of St. Cuthberts. It extends
more than a mile westwards along the shore
from the mouth of the Leith water, and is
about a quarter of a mile in breadth. The pa-
rish of South-Leith is of a triangular figure, the
base of which extends eastwards along the
shore from the mouth of the river to the Figgat-
burn, at Portobello, from whence the line of
boundary is chiefly the public road to Edin-
4x
706
L E I T H.
burgh, enclosing the Calton hill, and turning
northward down Leith Walk, and near the
foot of that thoroughfare bending westwards to
the river. In this district is comprehended the
abrogated parish of Restalrig.
The situation of the town of Leith is not that
which ought a 'priori to have been chosen for
the site of a sea-port. It lies at the head of a
flat sandy shore, which is left dry for a mile in
breadth at low water, and consequently is unfitted
for an active maritime trade. The river Leith
runs through the harbour, but in most seasons
this is a small stream with little current near
its mouth, and it has scarcely the power of
keeping the entrance to the port clear of mud.
The most ancient part of the town reaches
from the shore along the east bank of the
stream for about half a mile, the houses stand-
ing so far back as to leave a continuous quay
for the convenience of vessels and the em-
barkation or delivery of goods, as well as
the purposes of a street. From this quay the
town diverges in narrow streets and alleys to
the eastward, and the houses in this quarter
are mostly of a heavy dingy appearance. The
chief old thoroughfare thus leading off the quay
is the Tolbooth Wynd, a most incommodious
passage, which joins the foot of the Kirkgate.
This street is also of narrow dimensions,
though having many modern houses, and leads
in a southerly direction to the foot of Leith
Walk. The road by these communications
with Edinburgh is now much disused in fa-
vour of a handsome cross street, called Ber-
nard Street, which leaving the quay nearer
the sea, leads to the foot of a spacious street
named Constitution Street, which goes south-
wards along the bac 
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